Do I Really Need One?

[NavyVet]

I have been fishing crank baits for years with a graphtie casting rod even going back to the days of pistol grip handles and seem to get along OK.

 

I am currently using a 7 ft. 3in. graphite casing rod Hvy./ Fast Action for the crankbaits I normally throw (1/2 to a max. of 1 oz.) usually deeper running crankbaits.

 

In reallity how much better would a dedicated crank bait rod actually be, if any, for these baits? I am an "old tmer" and at times hard to convince, but can be. Are these typpes of rods that much better or is it the manufactuers trying to sell me? Please, no insult intened to those who use or buy them.

 

Just looking for answers.

[fishballer06]

There's a little bit of a learning curve for the feel of a cranking rod, but once you get used to it, it is a nice thing to have. 

 

If you want to stay graphite but have a moderate action, the Dobyns Champion CB rods are the way to go. I'm a graphite cranking guy myself and these rods are my favorites. 

[BobP]

Are you consistently losing fish on your present setup?  Are you looking for longer casts?  If yes, you might explore alternatives in a softer tipped graphite rod or try a fiberglass rod.  If not, not.

[MickD]

There have been millions of fish caught with rods of all varieties, materials, powers, and actions.  How many rods did your father have?  Probably one.  So, IMO, it is not a necessity to have a crankbait rod. But it can be advantageous.  If you are using mono or FC now, lines with quite a bit of stretch, which equates to "forgiveness" when the fish hits, it may not make a big difference.  But if you are using braid you will probably do better with a moderate action, which will be more forgiving, resulting in fewer missed fish due to too aggressive hook sets on the strike.  All the crank rods do, regardless of material, is soften up the rod's reaction to the strike.  In other words, consider it a system, line + rod.  The system should be "harder/stiffer" for finesse applications, "softer" for cranks and surface.  (treble hooks).

 

The casting characteristics will be somewhat different, but that's not compelling, and what works better for one caster may not work better for another.

 

As previously stated, if you're not missing a lot of strikes now, getting another rod won't be a big improvement.  To me, bigger than the action difference is the convenience of having more setups, each for its own technique and lure, so lure changes won't be necessary so often.

 

 

[greentrout]

Old timers like Rick Clunn like fiberglass...fish with a gentleman who uses an Ugly Stik...with crankbaits....

[MassYak85]

My only concern would be losing fish, especially on the heavier cranks. I fished a whopper plopper 130 on a similar rod (heavy fast) for a year and I gaurantee the rod choice was to blame for some of my lost fish. When fish jumped the rod would completely unload and that's when they would use the weight of the lure to throw the hooks. 

[papajoe222]

5 hours ago, NavyVet said:

 

In reallity how much better would a dedicated crank bait rod actually be, if any, for these baits? I

 

You'd be pleasantly surprised. Today's cranking rods are made to address the inherent problems with fishing cranks. The first is a soft enough tip (mod- mod/fast) to allow both long casts and the fish a good chance at getting the bait in its mouth. The moderate action is forgiving enough to allow a quick head shake or short power run without being overly concerned with the hooks ripping free (provided you don't have your drag locked down.  The composite material on many cranking sticks is a good blend that allows sensitivity, flexibility and strength. If you do a lot of cranking, they're a great addition over a general purpose MH/Fast rod.

[ghost]

NavyVet, please check your PM (private Message)

[spoonplugger1]

Blank power is the problem if your tearing hooks out, blank action has virtually nothing to do with it. Rod designs have no common thread, Heavy means nothing other than it's heavier than a Med Heavy in the same rod line from the same manufacturer, some other rod company may call it X Hvy, or Med Hvy. pick up an inshore rod with the same components, layout and it could be a medium.

G Loomis for years used the same exact blank across a spectrum of descriptions and each customer raved about the results not knowing their Mag Bass, Walleye, or Green Water series rod started life a decade before as a Hot Shot rod designed to pull plugs for salmon and steelhead. I know a gentleman who has taken a Hot Shot blank and by adding a long Tennessee grip, he uses it as a fly rod, spinning rod, or casting rod by just placing the reel in the right place, and it works very well. His rods are on the Worried Shrimp web site, if it's still up.

[eyedabassman]

11 hours ago, papajoe222 said:

You'd be pleasantly surprised. Today's cranking rods are made to address the inherent problems with fishing cranks. The first is a soft enough tip (mod- mod/fast) to allow both long casts and the fish a good chance at getting the bait in its mouth. The moderate action is forgiving enough to allow a quick head shake or short power run without being overly concerned with the hooks ripping free (provided you don't have your drag locked down.  The composite material on many cranking sticks is a good blend that allows sensitivity, flexibility and strength. If you do a lot of cranking, they're a great addition over a general purpose MH/Fast rod.

I second that!

[38 Super Fan]

I still like a graphite cranking rod, just as long as it has that slower taper.

[MichaelJ7]

I am a fan of the dedicated crank rod. But this varies for me on what type. Shallow/square bills I like a graphite medium/fast. Lipless, graphite medium heavy. Mid-deep divers I am on my third one. Still trying to find that balance of castability and hookset forgiveness. My first rod was glass but it was bulky and heavy and just too whippy. Then a graphite Winch series rod 7’ medium moderate. Which I liked but loaded up too much. Then I went to a 7’ medium/fast and it was my favorite so far. But I just bought an Ike signature rod that is glass. Going to see if the rod has that parabolic bend I like to cast/fight fish. Haven’t been on the water yet but with just holding it I think it might be my happy medium. 

[optimator]

My crankbait rod is a Loomis PR844C M/F. I love it.

[Boomstick]

I use a Daiwa Tatula 7'2" MH/R glass cranking rod for pretty much all of my moving baits. I have also used a M/F rods for moving baits and that works just as well. Both rods have enough power to pull a big fish out of the grass but is not too stiff where you lose the fish. If you only fish cranks in open water, you may want to consider a M/MF rod but I find M/F or MH/MF to be the more universal rod personally.

 

It also lets me rig up something like a jig or soft plastics on one rod, and a spinnerbait or crankbait on the other rod so I can switch quickly as well.

 

 

[Dwight Hottle]

I think the versatility of a medium heavy moderate rod is worth the expense. You can use it for jerkbaits, topwater & crankbaits. Some guys like it for bladed jigs as well. The moderate action rod helps keep trebles from pulling out & helps with jumping fish not pulling off if you keep pressure on them. 

[mhilgtx]

6 hours ago, Boomstick said:

I use a Daiwa Tatula 7'2" MH/R glass cranking rod for pretty much all of my moving baits. I have also used a M/F rods for moving baits and that works just as well. Both rods have enough power to pull a big fish out of the grass but is not too stiff where you lose the fish. If you only fish cranks in open water, you may want to consider a M/MF rod but I find M/F or MH/MF to be the more universal rod personally.

 

It also lets me rig up something like a jig or soft plastics on one rod, and a spinnerbait or crankbait on the other rod so I can switch quickly as well.

 

 

Any chance you have a med heavy reg graphite Tatula to compare the glass rod to?  I have a couple of these I use for moving single hook and jigs but think they are too fast for most cranking applications.  I love my Tatula rods in general and want to get a couple of the glass cranking rods if they are more parabolic than their graphite cousins.

[Boomstick]

1 hour ago, mhilgtx said:

Any chance you have a med heavy reg graphite Tatula to compare the glass rod to?  I have a couple of these I use for moving single hook and jigs but think they are too fast for most cranking applications.  I love my Tatula rods in general and want to get a couple of the glass cranking rods if they are more parabolic than their graphite cousins.

I do not, but I will say I picked up a St. Croix Mojo Bass Spinnerbait rod, which is MH/MF and it feels almost identical in power and action. I would say it is more of a spinnerbait, deep diver or heavy grass rod, but there is some initial play in the tip which makes it work. Plus since I usually fish shallow, I usually use mono and it's good with the extra stretch.

 

Tackletour did a pretty good review of it. http://tackletour.com/reviewdaiwatat721mhrbg.html

 

They do make a 7'7" M/R model that I have a feeling would be a better fit for crankbaits in open water. I specifically wanted the 7'2" MH/R rod because my intent was to use it for all moving baits since I can only fit so many one piece rods in my car.

[Fishin Dad]

I have been completely sold on fiberglass rods for cranks and chatterbaits.   i like the way they load up on the cast and how they allow you to fight the fish.   i am personally convinced they help me land more fish.   It takes some getting used to in regards to feel.  I have graphite cranking rods as well, but really prefer the glass rods for these 2 techniques.   Vandam is pretty good at cranking and he uses glass rods, although he could probably crank with a cane pole and out fish me.    

[NHBull]

If it ain’t broke.........

 

that said a deticated (M/M) CB rod would get my choice, especially if I was going to spend a lot of time with it in my hands.  IMHO, you do not need to spend a lot of money for it