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Posted

Hi. I started using casting setup for bass recently. I read some topics and watched videos on how to cast with a baitcaster, and I practiced a lot. Now, with an appropriate setup for break and spool tension, I don't get backlash most of the time. But still, every about 20 casts, I notice that the line on the spool will be much looser, and this makes it way easier to get a backlash. Every time when the line is loose, I will pull the loose line out, and then reel it back in. Normally I pull more than half of the line out of the spool, which is quite annoying.

 

I wonder if there is a way to prevent this. Did I do something wrong? Or it is just a normal thing on baitcaster.

 

The reel I'm using is Abu Garcia Revo SX Gen 3 7.1:1 gear ratio, spooled with 30 lb Power Pro Braid and 15 lb FC leader. Also wonder if it is because of the reel itself

 

Thanks.

Posted

Backlashes are inevitable. One tip to make them less severe is to make a long cast then put a piece of tape over the line on your spool. Then you at least won't backlash any deeper on your spool.

  • Like 3
Posted
4 minutes ago, 38 Super Fan said:

Backlashes are inevitable. One tip to make them less severe is to make a long cast then put a piece of tape over the line on your spool. Then you at least won't backlash any deeper on your spool.

Thanks for the tip^_^

  • Like 1
Posted

Instead of letting the line loosen up over multiple casts then spooling it all out at once and then reeling it back in, keep some tension on the line with your fingers of your non reeling hand. I usually have my left hand cupping the side/bottom of the reel and keep two fingers kind of pinched on the line as it spools back in, keeping some tension on the line so it feeds without slack back onto the spool. This also keeps your fingers in contact with the line and with some lures/plastics you can feel gentle tugs on the line that can be bass grabbing the bait. Its something my grandfather taught me when I was a kid with the old closed faced reels.

 

Not telling anyone what to do, but that is what I do and it does help with reducing backlash. I can cast for hours without a problem and only get backlash for the most part when I cast into the wind or my lure gets stopped mid flight abruptly and the spool keeps spinning.

 

I think I will try the tape trick too though. That would keep some of the wicked birds nests from being as bad. Good tip.

 

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted

Are you practicing casting out of the water without a lure, just a practice plug/weight?

Tom

Posted
4 minutes ago, WRB said:

Are you practicing casting out of the water without a lure, just a practice plug/weight?

Tom

With the lure. Thx

20 minutes ago, toni63 said:

Instead of letting the line loosen up over multiple casts then spooling it all out at once and then reeling it back in, keep some tension on the line with your fingers of your non reeling hand. I usually have my left hand cupping the side/bottom of the reel and keep two fingers kind of pinched on the line as it spools back in, keeping some tension on the line so it feeds without slack back onto the spool. This also keeps your fingers in contact with the line and with some lures/plastics you can feel gentle tugs on the line that can be bass grabbing the bait. Its something my grandfather taught me when I was a kid with the old closed faced reels.

 

Not telling anyone what to do, but that is what I do and it does help with reducing backlash. I can cast for hours without a problem and only get backlash for the most part when I cast into the wind or my lure gets stopped mid flight abruptly and the spool keeps spinning.

 

I think I will try the tape trick too though. That would keep some of the wicked birds nests from being as bad. Good tip.

 

Great tips, will try that out

Posted

I haven't had a backlash in four years. Practice practice practice. High quality products and line help as well. I like both J Braid in the lower end market, and Smackdown in the high end market for braid. Tatsu for Flouro, and I have no use for anything but Yo-Zuri Hybrid. It also helps my cheapest reel is a Chonarch MGL.

 

/e because I remembered the date of my last backlash.

  • Super User
Posted

The reason I asked the question was to determine if you were casting in water or dry land, it makes a difference with wetting the line and keeping the line tight onto the spool. 

Totally agree that using your fingers to maintain line tension is good, most bass angler don't hold a reel so they can run the line between thumb and index fingers and rely on the water and lure tension.

Tom

Posted

Wish I hadn't gotten one in four years! I get more than my fair share of over runs.Mostly when I attempt to add a few yards to a long cast with an unweighted plastic. Those and buzzbaits. I can teach someone how to use a baitcaster and they'll be ribbing me every time we go out together. As mentioned before, run the line between your finger and thumb of the hand holding the reel.  You'll not only keep tension on the line, you'll feel bites on your soft plastics that you would have missed.

Posted

Have fished baitcasters about 15 years.  Still sometimes notice small loops that have to be pulled out.  Most times that this has happened I was not paying enough attention at the end of the cast as the thumb was allowing a tiny amount of looseness to occur in the next wraps on the spool.  By feathering the spool with the thumb at the end of the cast, or pulling this looseness out before rewinding, long pull outs can be avoided.  When fishing walking baits, I sometimes develop looseness on the spool.  After a number of casts, I just make a long cast and do a fast straight retrieve, then go back to walking.

  • Like 2
Posted
6 minutes ago, livin2fish said:

Have fished baitcasters about 15 years.  Still sometimes notice small loops that have to be pulled out.  Most times that this has happened I was not paying enough attention at the end of the cast as the thumb was allowing a tiny amount of looseness to occur in the next wraps on the spool.  By feathering the spool with the thumb at the end of the cast, or pulling this looseness out before rewinding, long pull outs can be avoided.  When fishing walking baits, I sometimes develop looseness on the spool.  After a number of casts, I just make a long cast and do a fast straight retrieve, then go back to walking.

This  ^^^

  • Super User
Posted

In my experience, if you are going to back the drag or brakes off to get maximum distance, you need to be more proficient with your thumb on the spool.  I call it educating your thumb.  My technique when trying to get the most distance (normally in freespool mode) is to keep my thumb very close but not touching the spool.  That way any line trying to over run is stopped by my thumb and will be captured as more line feeds out in the cast.  As you near the end of your cast and your lure is about to hit the water, you need to have some pressure on the spool from your thumb since when the lure hits the water it stops.....your spool won't.  Result...loose line or over run.  If you are willing to lose a little distance, adjust the brake to take over the job of your thumb.  The brake will keep the line tight and stop an over run at the end of the cast.  That's why expensive reels have top notch drag systems.;)  

  • Super User
Posted

It's just a matter of training your thumb to feather the line properly.

 

Also if you are fairly new to the baitcaster, you might want to consider using heavier line until you get the hang of it. Start with some heavy mono, at least 15lbs and work your way down from there. 30lb braid is like using 8lb mono, which is pretty thin. 50lb braid is the equivalent of using 12lb mono, which imo casts pretty well on most baitcasters. Might be a good bet to start with 50lb and work your way down to 40lb. I tend to stick to 40lb line because in colder weather, 30lb braid may dig into the spool and the 40lb line still casts better.

  • Super User
Posted
20 hours ago, 38 Super Fan said:

Backlashes are inevitable. One tip to make them less severe is to make a long cast then put a piece of tape over the line on your spool. Then you at least won't backlash any deeper on your spool.

You beat me to it. This little piece of advice will allow you to learn without having to spend a lot of time and money dealing with bad backlashes and let you concentrate on learning to cast properly and thumbing the spool when needed. 

Posted
4 hours ago, TOXIC said:

In my experience, if you are going to back the drag or brakes off to get maximum distance, you need to be more proficient with your thumb on the spool.  I call it educating your thumb.  My technique when trying to get the most distance (normally in freespool mode) is to keep my thumb very close but not touching the spool.  That way any line trying to over run is stopped by my thumb and will be captured as more line feeds out in the cast.  As you near the end of your cast and your lure is about to hit the water, you need to have some pressure on the spool from your thumb since when the lure hits the water it stops.....your spool won't.  Result...loose line or over run.  If you are willing to lose a little distance, adjust the brake to take over the job of your thumb.  The brake will keep the line tight and stop an over run at the end of the cast.  That's why expensive reels have top notch drag systems.;)  

I've only been using baitcasters for a couple years and am still learning about them. So to that end, I have a couple questions about the above thread entry.

 

1) Mr. TOXIC mentions backing off the drag to get maximum casting distance.  I didn't realize the drag setting had any affect on casting distance, I've only been adjusting the brakes and spool tension?

 

2) He also mentions the brake will help stop an over run at the end of the cast. But this is only with magnetic brakes, correct?  Magnetic brakes help slow the spool down at the end of the cast, while centrifugal brakes help slow down the spool at the beginning of the cast?

  • Super User
Posted

You are correct.  I don't get too technical on interchanging terms between braking systems since different reels have different types of brakes.  Normally the 2 types of "braking" are the magnets (in or out adjustment) which requires popping off the side plate and the "dial" on the outside of the sideplate or a knob depending on the reel manufacturer.  The suttle adjustments to those 2 systems is what I am referring to as a replacement for your thumb.  Personally, I normally release all of the magnetic unless I have a very sensitive reel and believe me they are all different.  

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