Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Somewhat new to Bass Fishing, usually just threw what others were using and had mediocre success. The plan this year is to really focus on techniques, when to use and just a better overall understanding. Currently I have my setup as below but wanted to see if you guys noticed any glaring gaps. All advice is appreciated and corrections are welcome ;)

 

Also I apologize if this is already covered. I am still reading through as much as I can. 

 

 

Rod and Reel Combos - All Abu Garcia ;)

 

  • Frog/Mouse Rod - 7'0" Medium Heavy ProMax 2 Baitcasting Combo, Spooled with 65Lb Spiderwire Stealth
  • Crankbait Rod - 7'0" Medium Heavy Vengeance Rod with 6500 C3, Spooled with 17LB Mono
  • Worm Rod - 6'6" Medium ProMax2 BaitCasting Combo, Spooled with 10LB Berkley Vanish Fluro (wondering if this should be mono as I've read Fluro floats more) Most often Texas Rigged with 1/8 to 1/4oz bullet and a Zoom Trick Worm
  • Top Waters such as Poppers and floating stick baits - 7'0" Medium Cardinal STX Spinning Combo, spooled with 8Lb Mono
  • Genereal Use, usually ends up with a Spinnerbait - 7'0" Medium Cardinal STX Spinning Combo, spooled with 8Lb Mono
  • BeetleSpings and Small Lures - Jawbone 6'0" Medium with a Diawa 1500 Spinning Reel, Spooled with 6Lb mono

 

Posted

Dunno if this will help, but I use a 7' Medium bait caster with 14 lb mono for top waters spinner baits and chatter baits.  A spinning rod might be a little light.  I fish worms on a 7' MH crank bait, but many use spinning gear for worms.   I also fish tubes on a crank bait.  All my plastics are on 15lb Invizx flouro.  Crankbaits go on a 7' medium baitcaster with the Invizx.  I like the Invizx since it only 013" in diameter.  Beetlespin etc. is fine.

Posted

Honestly I don't see much wrong with your setups.  BTW, mono floats and flouro sinks.  Unless you are using weightless worms, I don't think it matters enough to consider.  Even then.....

Posted

17# mono is kinda big for cranks In my opinion. 

  • Like 1
Posted

Agree that a spinning reel might be a little light for topwater and spinnerbaits. What are the tapers on your rods? Those matter.

 

I like cranking with the lightest fluoro I can get away with. Helps the bait run deeper. I actually never use mono on anything. I try and eliminate line stretch and let the rod action determine how much "give" on a strike. 

Posted
6 hours ago, th365thli said:

Agree that a spinning reel might be a little light for topwater and spinnerbaits. What are the tapers on your rods? Those matter.

 

I like cranking with the lightest fluoro I can get away with. Helps the bait run deeper. I actually never use mono on anything. I try and eliminate line stretch and let the rod action determine how much "give" on a strike. 

What I have learned is that most flouro stretches just as much as mono.   The differences is that flouro gets weaker,  and doesn't return to it's original length after being stretched.

 

I've also found that for launching 10xds, 10 and 12 lb flouro will snap on the back cast from the shock.   I will be switching to braid for main line and mono for leaders on deep cranking setups.  For >15 foot cranking,  mono will work just fine although I think will be less sensitive,  which I care about for cranking. 

Posted

I use 8# flouro for all my deep cranking. If you are snapping off cranks while casting I would change rods. I can cast a 10 XD all day long on 8#. 

  • Like 1
Posted
6 hours ago, LionHeart said:

What I have learned is that most flouro stretches just as much as mono.   The differences is that flouro gets weaker,  and doesn't return to it's original length after being stretched.

 

I've also found that for launching 10xds, 10 and 12 lb flouro will snap on the back cast from the shock.   I will be switching to braid for main line and mono for leaders on deep cranking setups.  For >15 foot cranking,  mono will work just fine although I think will be less sensitive,  which I care about for cranking. 

Different strokes for different folks I guess. Never had an issue with fluoro for cranks. You're right to an extent, that fluoro CAN be as stretchy as mono, but it takes a greater force to get it to stretch. You need to match the line test with the weight of the lure and the action of the rod. Light line, heavy lure, stiff rod, you're going to run into more problems. 

 

It's all about fluoro's density. Keep in mind, braid is the least stretchy but that doesn't equate to sensitivity, especially on a slack line. The density of fluoro is really what gives it's properties. Fluoro's controlled stretch properties are useful for leader applications like flipping or punching, but for direct contact such as deeper water football jigging or any non-sight/contact application, fluoro is king. 

If you're getting any issues with shock or extra sensitivity you should change your rod or inspect your knots. Don't forget to wet the fluoro with your tongue or whatever before cinching down. I personally wouldn't use braid or mono for deep cranking because they both float. 

  • Like 1
Posted
4 hours ago, th365thli said:

Different strokes for different folks I guess. Never had an issue with fluoro for cranks. You're right to an extent, that fluoro CAN be as stretchy as mono, but it takes a greater force to get it to stretch. You need to match the line test with the weight of the lure and the action of the rod. Light line, heavy lure, stiff rod, you're going to run into more problems. 

 

It's all about fluoro's density. Keep in mind, braid is the least stretchy but that doesn't equate to sensitivity, especially on a slack line. The density of fluoro is really what gives it's properties. Fluoro's controlled stretch properties are useful for leader applications like flipping or punching, but for direct contact such as deeper water football jigging or any non-sight/contact application, fluoro is king. 

If you're getting any issues with shock or extra sensitivity you should change your rod or inspect your knots. Don't forget to wet the fluoro with your tongue or whatever before cinching down. I personally wouldn't use braid or mono for deep cranking because they both float. 

Thanks for the thorough reply.  Just a heads up, 30 lb braid has a thinner diameter than 12 or 10 lb flouro, so while it may float, I expect it to run deeper while cranking.  Never actually tried it so I may be wrong.  

 

I think we both fish differently, because I see no need for a leader while punching, and never 'flip.'  I do pitch often, and nearly always use a leader.

 

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted
44 minutes ago, LionHeart said:

Thanks for the thorough reply.  Just a heads up, 30 lb braid has a thinner diameter than 12 or 10 lb flouro, so while it may float, I expect it to run deeper while cranking.  Never actually tried it so I may be wrong.  

 

I think we both fish differently, because I see no need for a leader while punching, and never 'flip.'  I do pitch often, and nearly always use a leader.

 

 

 

You're right about punching that was an error, I also don't use a leader for that. For flipping I still do, but I've thought about going straight braid.

 

People definitely use braid for cranking so hopefully it works out for you!

 

 

  • Super User
Posted

My advice is to switch your worm rod and crankbait rod. Medium/Fast works for worms, but so does Medium Heavy / fast. Medium Heavy/fast however is a bit stiff for crankbaits, but Medium/fast is about right. You can also use the same rod for topwaters as well, and use the spinning combo you are using now as secondary rod to have rigged up with a similar type of lure -- I prefer fishing cranks and topwaters on a casting rod.

 

I would also use 12 or 14lb line unless you're constantly dragging them through heavy grass. I have used 17lb mono for crankbaits before in the fall, but I also use the same rod with spinnerbaits as well.

 

The other thing I would personally change is I would run a slightly lighter line on your frog/mouse rod. You can toss a leader on it and use it for worms and jigs too if need be.

 

Overall you're off to a good start.

Posted
21 hours ago, th365thli said:

Agree that a spinning reel might be a little light for topwater and spinnerbaits. What are the tapers on your rods? Those matter.

 

I like cranking with the lightest fluoro I can get away with. Helps the bait run deeper. I actually never use mono on anything. I try and eliminate line stretch and let the rod action determine how much "give" on a strike. 

I (successfully) throw all my poppers/spooks/jerkbaits with a spinning outfit. 2500 Size Daiwa BG on a 6'8" MXF St.Croix Mojo Bass.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Unfortunately, your content contains terms that we do not allow. Please edit your content to remove the highlighted words below.
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.


  • Outboard Engine

    Fishing lures

    fishing forum

    fishing forum

    fishing tackle

    fishing

    fishing

    fishing

    bass fish

    fish for bass



×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.