rmdouglas Posted February 18, 2018 Posted February 18, 2018 Somewhat new to Bass Fishing, usually just threw what others were using and had mediocre success. The plan this year is to really focus on techniques, when to use and just a better overall understanding. Currently I have my setup as below but wanted to see if you guys noticed any glaring gaps. All advice is appreciated and corrections are welcome Also I apologize if this is already covered. I am still reading through as much as I can. Rod and Reel Combos - All Abu Garcia Frog/Mouse Rod - 7'0" Medium Heavy ProMax 2 Baitcasting Combo, Spooled with 65Lb Spiderwire Stealth Crankbait Rod - 7'0" Medium Heavy Vengeance Rod with 6500 C3, Spooled with 17LB Mono Worm Rod - 6'6" Medium ProMax2 BaitCasting Combo, Spooled with 10LB Berkley Vanish Fluro (wondering if this should be mono as I've read Fluro floats more) Most often Texas Rigged with 1/8 to 1/4oz bullet and a Zoom Trick Worm Top Waters such as Poppers and floating stick baits - 7'0" Medium Cardinal STX Spinning Combo, spooled with 8Lb Mono Genereal Use, usually ends up with a Spinnerbait - 7'0" Medium Cardinal STX Spinning Combo, spooled with 8Lb Mono BeetleSpings and Small Lures - Jawbone 6'0" Medium with a Diawa 1500 Spinning Reel, Spooled with 6Lb mono Quote
OnthePotomac Posted February 18, 2018 Posted February 18, 2018 Dunno if this will help, but I use a 7' Medium bait caster with 14 lb mono for top waters spinner baits and chatter baits. A spinning rod might be a little light. I fish worms on a 7' MH crank bait, but many use spinning gear for worms. I also fish tubes on a crank bait. All my plastics are on 15lb Invizx flouro. Crankbaits go on a 7' medium baitcaster with the Invizx. I like the Invizx since it only 013" in diameter. Beetlespin etc. is fine. Quote
LionHeart Posted February 18, 2018 Posted February 18, 2018 Honestly I don't see much wrong with your setups. BTW, mono floats and flouro sinks. Unless you are using weightless worms, I don't think it matters enough to consider. Even then..... Quote
Czorn Posted February 19, 2018 Posted February 19, 2018 17# mono is kinda big for cranks In my opinion. 1 Quote
th365thli Posted February 19, 2018 Posted February 19, 2018 Agree that a spinning reel might be a little light for topwater and spinnerbaits. What are the tapers on your rods? Those matter. I like cranking with the lightest fluoro I can get away with. Helps the bait run deeper. I actually never use mono on anything. I try and eliminate line stretch and let the rod action determine how much "give" on a strike. Quote
LionHeart Posted February 19, 2018 Posted February 19, 2018 6 hours ago, th365thli said: Agree that a spinning reel might be a little light for topwater and spinnerbaits. What are the tapers on your rods? Those matter. I like cranking with the lightest fluoro I can get away with. Helps the bait run deeper. I actually never use mono on anything. I try and eliminate line stretch and let the rod action determine how much "give" on a strike. What I have learned is that most flouro stretches just as much as mono. The differences is that flouro gets weaker, and doesn't return to it's original length after being stretched. I've also found that for launching 10xds, 10 and 12 lb flouro will snap on the back cast from the shock. I will be switching to braid for main line and mono for leaders on deep cranking setups. For >15 foot cranking, mono will work just fine although I think will be less sensitive, which I care about for cranking. Quote
Czorn Posted February 19, 2018 Posted February 19, 2018 I use 8# flouro for all my deep cranking. If you are snapping off cranks while casting I would change rods. I can cast a 10 XD all day long on 8#. 1 Quote
th365thli Posted February 19, 2018 Posted February 19, 2018 6 hours ago, LionHeart said: What I have learned is that most flouro stretches just as much as mono. The differences is that flouro gets weaker, and doesn't return to it's original length after being stretched. I've also found that for launching 10xds, 10 and 12 lb flouro will snap on the back cast from the shock. I will be switching to braid for main line and mono for leaders on deep cranking setups. For >15 foot cranking, mono will work just fine although I think will be less sensitive, which I care about for cranking. Different strokes for different folks I guess. Never had an issue with fluoro for cranks. You're right to an extent, that fluoro CAN be as stretchy as mono, but it takes a greater force to get it to stretch. You need to match the line test with the weight of the lure and the action of the rod. Light line, heavy lure, stiff rod, you're going to run into more problems. It's all about fluoro's density. Keep in mind, braid is the least stretchy but that doesn't equate to sensitivity, especially on a slack line. The density of fluoro is really what gives it's properties. Fluoro's controlled stretch properties are useful for leader applications like flipping or punching, but for direct contact such as deeper water football jigging or any non-sight/contact application, fluoro is king. If you're getting any issues with shock or extra sensitivity you should change your rod or inspect your knots. Don't forget to wet the fluoro with your tongue or whatever before cinching down. I personally wouldn't use braid or mono for deep cranking because they both float. 1 Quote
LionHeart Posted February 20, 2018 Posted February 20, 2018 4 hours ago, th365thli said: Different strokes for different folks I guess. Never had an issue with fluoro for cranks. You're right to an extent, that fluoro CAN be as stretchy as mono, but it takes a greater force to get it to stretch. You need to match the line test with the weight of the lure and the action of the rod. Light line, heavy lure, stiff rod, you're going to run into more problems. It's all about fluoro's density. Keep in mind, braid is the least stretchy but that doesn't equate to sensitivity, especially on a slack line. The density of fluoro is really what gives it's properties. Fluoro's controlled stretch properties are useful for leader applications like flipping or punching, but for direct contact such as deeper water football jigging or any non-sight/contact application, fluoro is king. If you're getting any issues with shock or extra sensitivity you should change your rod or inspect your knots. Don't forget to wet the fluoro with your tongue or whatever before cinching down. I personally wouldn't use braid or mono for deep cranking because they both float. Thanks for the thorough reply. Just a heads up, 30 lb braid has a thinner diameter than 12 or 10 lb flouro, so while it may float, I expect it to run deeper while cranking. Never actually tried it so I may be wrong. I think we both fish differently, because I see no need for a leader while punching, and never 'flip.' I do pitch often, and nearly always use a leader. 1 Quote
th365thli Posted February 20, 2018 Posted February 20, 2018 44 minutes ago, LionHeart said: Thanks for the thorough reply. Just a heads up, 30 lb braid has a thinner diameter than 12 or 10 lb flouro, so while it may float, I expect it to run deeper while cranking. Never actually tried it so I may be wrong. I think we both fish differently, because I see no need for a leader while punching, and never 'flip.' I do pitch often, and nearly always use a leader. You're right about punching that was an error, I also don't use a leader for that. For flipping I still do, but I've thought about going straight braid. People definitely use braid for cranking so hopefully it works out for you! Quote
Super User Boomstick Posted February 20, 2018 Super User Posted February 20, 2018 My advice is to switch your worm rod and crankbait rod. Medium/Fast works for worms, but so does Medium Heavy / fast. Medium Heavy/fast however is a bit stiff for crankbaits, but Medium/fast is about right. You can also use the same rod for topwaters as well, and use the spinning combo you are using now as secondary rod to have rigged up with a similar type of lure -- I prefer fishing cranks and topwaters on a casting rod. I would also use 12 or 14lb line unless you're constantly dragging them through heavy grass. I have used 17lb mono for crankbaits before in the fall, but I also use the same rod with spinnerbaits as well. The other thing I would personally change is I would run a slightly lighter line on your frog/mouse rod. You can toss a leader on it and use it for worms and jigs too if need be. Overall you're off to a good start. Quote
CTBassin860 Posted February 20, 2018 Posted February 20, 2018 21 hours ago, th365thli said: Agree that a spinning reel might be a little light for topwater and spinnerbaits. What are the tapers on your rods? Those matter. I like cranking with the lightest fluoro I can get away with. Helps the bait run deeper. I actually never use mono on anything. I try and eliminate line stretch and let the rod action determine how much "give" on a strike. I (successfully) throw all my poppers/spooks/jerkbaits with a spinning outfit. 2500 Size Daiwa BG on a 6'8" MXF St.Croix Mojo Bass. Quote
rmdouglas Posted February 23, 2018 Author Posted February 23, 2018 Thanks for all the information and help guys. I appreciate it. Quote
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