Sifuedition Posted December 22, 2017 Posted December 22, 2017 I have started using braid for basically everything and I am running into an issue that I haven't found posted about much. The line, being as thin as it is, tends to try to slip between the rings of a split ring. I have a mix of circle and oval split-rings and have this problem on both. I'm using the knot in the linked video and it seems like the double loop at the beginning is where I run into the problem, often. When I come around and go though the eye the second time, the loop around the metal frequently slides and ends up around the single strand of metal. Trying to get that loop away, the loop just pulls between the split. Is there some kind of hardware I could swap the split-rings out with that would not sacrifice much strength, not add excessive weight, but would not have this problem? https://www.saltstrong.com/articles/modified-uni-knot-for-braid/ Considering this in the #2 http://www.tacklewarehouse.com/P-Line_Crosslock_Snap/descpage-BBR.html Quote
Super User Dwight Hottle Posted December 22, 2017 Super User Posted December 22, 2017 This is one I highly recommend. http://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Owner_Hyper_Welded_Quick_Snaps_6pk/descpage-OHQS.html 1 1 Quote
Sifuedition Posted December 22, 2017 Author Posted December 22, 2017 On 12/22/2017 at 3:29 PM, Dwight Hottle said: This is one I highly recommend. http://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Owner_Hyper_Welded_Quick_Snaps_6pk/descpage-OHQS.html Thanks for your answer. Is the 46 lbs version really big? Do you have a suggestion as to weight/action? Quote
Super User Dwight Hottle Posted December 22, 2017 Super User Posted December 22, 2017 I use the 46lb for swimbaits & larger cranks & the 33lb for jerk baits. I have never had a failure using these snaps. 1 1 Quote
DSTN Posted December 23, 2017 Posted December 23, 2017 I use uni-knot for all lines, for braid I usually still only pass through the eye once and then do 12 wraps. I use snaps on most lures in lieu of split rings. The snaps recommended above are a good option. If you're not sure about using snaps you might be able to solve your problem by swapping the circle split rings on your lures for oval split rings. Line shouldn't slide into the split with oval rings. Quote
Sifuedition Posted December 23, 2017 Author Posted December 23, 2017 1 minute ago, DSTN said: I use uni-knot for all lines, for braid I usually still only pass through the eye once and then do 12 wraps. I use snaps on most lures in lieu of split rings. The snaps recommended above are a good option. If you're not sure about using snaps you might be able to solve your problem by swapping the circle split rings on your lures for oval split rings. Line shouldn't slide into the split with oval rings. About half of my lures came with oval split rings and I have the same problem. It's not when I am casting/retrieving. It is tying the knot when it happens and I end up having to retie. Quote
Super User WRB Posted December 23, 2017 Super User Posted December 23, 2017 The original braid knot is the same as a clinch knot except you double the line and wrap the loop end around the double line. You end up with a double line around the line tie, hook eye, snap or split ring. I also use Owner hyper weld #33 snaps, the are short and light weight. Tom 1 Quote
Super User Angry John Posted December 23, 2017 Super User Posted December 23, 2017 two good options really and the first one is the welded snap covered above. If i am fishing a swim bait then some times i add a solid ring after the split ring so i dont have the issue that your having. Owner also makes the solid rings i am talking about and if your way against snaps then that would be your other option. I use the 33 and 44 lb snaps and the 44 works well on swaivers and swim baits in that size range. The 33 is better for normal bass cranks and the smallest size works well on jerk baits and small cranks like rapala minnows and pins minnows. 1 Quote
DINK WHISPERER Posted December 23, 2017 Posted December 23, 2017 I use the P-line duo snaps and the owner all purpose snaps in sizes 2 and 3. Never had an issue and I use braid for almost everything. 1 Quote
Sifuedition Posted December 23, 2017 Author Posted December 23, 2017 Would you all suggest taking the split rings off and replacing them with these, or just attach these to the split ring? Quote
Super User WRB Posted December 23, 2017 Super User Posted December 23, 2017 3 minutes ago, Sifuedition said: Would you all suggest taking the split rings off and replacing them with these, or just attach these to the split ring? Take the split rings off and use the clips to attached to the crankbait bill eye. Tom 2 1 Quote
Super User islandbass Posted December 23, 2017 Super User Posted December 23, 2017 6 hours ago, Sifuedition said: About half of my lures came with oval split rings and I have the same problem. It's not when I am casting/retrieving. It is tying the knot when it happens and I end up having to retie. If you mean by this that as you cinch the knot down it somehow finds a way to get caught in the split? If so, I can definitely relate. It can really be irksome. The way I get around this is that I don’t finalize (cinch down) the knot until I move it to a part of the split ring that is safe. This is the only way I’ve gotten around it whether they’re round or oval. Yes, at the end on the knot making process. If I start making the knot in a safe section, the ring will almost always slide around until where the knot is where you don’t want it to be. Quote
Sifuedition Posted December 23, 2017 Author Posted December 23, 2017 3 minutes ago, islandbass said: If you mean by this that as you cinch the knot down it somehow finds a way to get caught in the split? If so, I can definitely relate. It can really be irksome. The way I get around this is that I don’t finalize (cinch down) the knot until I move it to a part of the split ring that is safe. This is the only way I’ve gotten around it whether they’re round or oval. Yes, at the end on the knot making process. If I start making the knot in a safe section, the ring will almost always slide around until where the knot is where you don’t want it to be. My problem is right at this moment: The loop from going through the split ring twice is not usually a large loop and somehow always lays toward the bottom. As I attempt to tighten it, it finds its way into the split in the split ring about 2-3 times out of 10. Quote
Super User islandbass Posted December 23, 2017 Super User Posted December 23, 2017 What knot are you trying to tie? My recommendation works when knots like the improved clinch knot, but it isn’t fool proof. As my knot gets closer to completion I reposition the knot location before it falls into that unwanted spot before the knot is completed. As I mentioned It isn’t 100% foolproof though. ? Quote
Sifuedition Posted December 23, 2017 Author Posted December 23, 2017 2 minutes ago, islandbass said: What knot are you trying to tie? My recommendation works when knots like the improved clinch knot, but it isn’t fool proof. As my knot gets closer to completion I reposition the knot location before it falls into that unwanted spot before the knot is completed. As I mentioned It isn’t 100% foolproof though. ? https://www.saltstrong.com/articles/modified-uni-knot-for-braid/ It is the uni knot, but, it is modified in that they go through the eye (or split ring) twice, which improved the knot strength in their testing. This is occurring in the initial double loop before really getting to the knot itself, much less cinching it. Quote
Super User islandbass Posted December 23, 2017 Super User Posted December 23, 2017 Okay. When I get the chance I’ll try that knot out and see if anything can be done about it. Quote
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