What line to put on my new crankin stick?

[Bassin' Brad]

I got a new Dobyns Fury 705cb and a H20 Express 6.3:1 baitcasting reel from my wife and I was wondering what line yall would put on it. I'm wanting to try some deeper cranking with it along with throwing traps (found out this fall I love throwing them) My 1st thought is a monofilament in the 12-15# range. I'd like to rip grass while throwing traps that's why I thought about the 15# line. What's yalls thoughts? 

[CroakHunter]

10Lb p line cxx.

12Lb big game

[Angry John]

12 or 15 yhb

[CroakHunter]

I also like 30Lb braid to a mono leader. Your baits will dive deeper in my personal experience

And they rip out of grass better. Also if you get snagged its cheaper to bend out a hook then to replace a whole new crankbait

[Bluebasser86]

10lb Big Game works well unless you're really ripping through the grass a lot. 

[roadwarrior]

#11 Sunline Armilo

 

[Team9nine]

Fluorocarbon, 10-12# for deep cranking and 12-15# for Traps and grass depending on bait size. 

[DINK WHISPERER]

30lb suffix 832 for traps and I use a leader in different sizes for cranks. 

[new2BC4bass]

12# AN40

[BigAngus752]

9 hours ago, Bassin' Brad said:

I got a new Dobyns Fury 705cb and a H20 Express 6.3:1 baitcasting reel from my wife and I was wondering what line yall would put on it. I'm wanting to try some deeper cranking with it along with throwing traps (found out this fall I love throwing them) My 1st thought is a monofilament in the 12-15# range. I'd like to rip grass while throwing traps that's why I thought about the 15# line. What's yalls thoughts? 

I have these questions all the time and this is the process I go through in my head. Examine what you need the line to do for you and you will find the answer.  First, since you want to "try some deeper cranking" it's probably important that you have a "sinking" or "neutrally buoyant" line.  Any line that floats will curb your depth.  This would suggest fluoro, a co-poly such as Yo-Zuri Hybrid, or a braid like Sufix 832.  Mono eventually sinks because it becomes waterlogged.  That's not the same as being a sinking or neutrally buoyant line.  As a result mono COULD cause your deep crank to run not so deep.  I say COULD because there may be some other factors I'm not aware of and because I don't want to be viciously disemboweled by the more experienced guys on here that are die-hard mono guys. 

 

Second, you mentioned you might be dragging them through some roughage.  Abrasion resistance and strength are paramount.  Braid tops that list followed by flouro, hybrid, and finally mono.  

 

Third, you will want some east-of-casting/distance.  I can only list my own experiences with this as a guy with just one year using baitcasters under my belt.  Mono wins this one for me followed closely by Yo-Zuri Hybrid.  I have no experience with fluoro so I'm of little use on that topic.  

 

Fourth, you may be concerned with "feel".  Perhaps you aren't, but that's a huge thing for me.  Especially with things I'm not used to fishing and while I've got years of experience with topwaters and jerkbaits, I have little experience with deep cranks.  I need to be able to feel that crank moving and the bump of the bite.  Especially when I'm knocking the crank off of logs/rocks/bottom.  For me that puts braid at the top followed by Yo-Zuri Hybrid.  Mono (for me personally/not an expert) is so bad that it's a no-go.  I can't feel a darn thing with mono of any kind that I have tried.  Not compared to braid and hybrid.  Again, no experience with fluoro. 

 

If you are so inclined, pick what is important to you from these questions, weigh how important each is, and then pick the line that fits best what you are most concerned with.  My deep cranks and lipless cranks run on Yo-Zuri hybrid (and occasionally on Sufix 832).  And I'm having success catching good fish with them which encourages me to practice with them more often.  

 

This is advice from someone who is learning right along with you.  Don't ignore the experts and experienced guys on here.  They have improved my fishing tenfold.  

[Bassin' Brad]

30 minutes ago, BigAngus752 said:

I have these questions all the time and this is the process I go through in my head. Examine what you need the line to do for you and you will find the answer.  First, since you want to "try some deeper cranking" it's probably important that you have a "sinking" or "neutrally buoyant" line.  Any line that floats will curb your depth.  This would suggest fluoro, a co-poly such as Yo-Zuri Hybrid, or a braid like Sufix 832.  Mono eventually sinks because it becomes waterlogged.  That's not the same as being a sinking or neutrally buoyant line.  As a result mono COULD cause your deep crank to run not so deep.  I say COULD because there may be some other factors I'm not aware of and because I don't want to be viciously disemboweled by the more experienced guys on here that are die-hard mono guys. 

 

Second, you mentioned you might be dragging them through some roughage.  Abrasion resistance and strength are paramount.  Braid tops that list followed by flouro, hybrid, and finally mono.  

 

Third, you will want some east-of-casting/distance.  I can only list my own experiences with this as a guy with just one year using baitcasters under my belt.  Mono wins this one for me followed closely by Yo-Zuri Hybrid.  I have no experience with fluoro so I'm of little use on that topic.  

 

Fourth, you may be concerned with "feel".  Perhaps you aren't, but that's a huge thing for me.  Especially with things I'm not used to fishing and while I've got years of experience with topwaters and jerkbaits, I have little experience with deep cranks.  I need to be able to feel that crank moving and the bump of the bite.  Especially when I'm knocking the crank off of logs/rocks/bottom.  For me that puts braid at the top followed by Yo-Zuri Hybrid.  Mono (for me personally/not an expert) is so bad that it's a no-go.  I can't feel a darn thing with mono of any kind that I have tried.  Not compared to braid and hybrid.  Again, no experience with fluoro. 

 

If you are so inclined, pick what is important to you from these questions, weigh how important each is, and then pick the line that fits best what you are most concerned with.  My deep cranks and lipless cranks run on Yo-Zuri hybrid (and occasionally on Sufix 832).  And I'm having success catching good fish with them which encourages me to practice with them more often.  

 

This is advice from someone who is learning right along with you.  Don't ignore the experts and experienced guys on here.  They have improved my fishing tenfold.  

Thand! You made some good points! What # test you using on that Yo-Zuri hybrid?? 

[Chefster]

Sunline Assassin.   Pretty tough.   It’s definitely stretches more than sniper.   

[new2BC4bass]

53 minutes ago, BigAngus752 said:

I have these questions all the time and this is the process I go through in my head. Examine what you need the line to do for you and you will find the answer.  First, since you want to "try some deeper cranking" it's probably important that you have a "sinking" or "neutrally buoyant" line.  Any line that floats will curb your depth.  This would suggest fluoro, a co-poly such as Yo-Zuri Hybrid, or a braid like Sufix 832.  Mono eventually sinks because it becomes waterlogged.  That's not the same as being a sinking or neutrally buoyant line.  As a result mono COULD cause your deep crank to run not so deep.  I say COULD because there may be some other factors I'm not aware of and because I don't want to be viciously disemboweled by the more experienced guys on here that are die-hard mono guys. 

 

Second, you mentioned you might be dragging them through some roughage.  Abrasion resistance and strength are paramount.  Braid tops that list followed by flouro, hybrid, and finally mono.  

 

Third, you will want some east-of-casting/distance.  I can only list my own experiences with this as a guy with just one year using baitcasters under my belt.  Mono wins this one for me followed closely by Yo-Zuri Hybrid.  I have no experience with fluoro so I'm of little use on that topic.  

 

Fourth, you may be concerned with "feel".  Perhaps you aren't, but that's a huge thing for me.  Especially with things I'm not used to fishing and while I've got years of experience with topwaters and jerkbaits, I have little experience with deep cranks.  I need to be able to feel that crank moving and the bump of the bite.  Especially when I'm knocking the crank off of logs/rocks/bottom.  For me that puts braid at the top followed by Yo-Zuri Hybrid.  Mono (for me personally/not an expert) is so bad that it's a no-go.  I can't feel a darn thing with mono of any kind that I have tried.  Not compared to braid and hybrid.  Again, no experience with fluoro. 

 

If you are so inclined, pick what is important to you from these questions, weigh how important each is, and then pick the line that fits best what you are most concerned with.  My deep cranks and lipless cranks run on Yo-Zuri hybrid (and occasionally on Sufix 832).  And I'm having success catching good fish with them which encourages me to practice with them more often.  

 

This is advice from someone who is learning right along with you.  Don't ignore the experts and experienced guys on here.  They have improved my fishing tenfold.  

 

As far as abrasion resistance goes, braid is on the bottom of the list, not the top.  Apparently you've never watched the video of a guy testing braid by pulling it across a stone.  Braid cuts very easily.  Which is why a lot of people prefer to use a leader in those circumstances.

[BigAngus752]

1 hour ago, new2BC4bass said:

 

As far as abrasion resistance goes, braid is on the bottom of the list, not the top.  Apparently you've never watched the video of a guy testing braid by pulling it across a stone.  Braid cuts very easily.  Which is why a lot of people prefer to use a leader in those circumstances.

Thanks for pointing that out.  I have not seen that video.  I was confusing strength for abrasion resistance.  But I think saying "braid cuts very easily" would be incorrect also.  You can damage a tooth if you try to bite it.  It's hard as hell to cut, but as you have just pointed out to me it's not abrasion resistant.  That's really unique.  I haven't had trouble with braid (yet) fraying over rocks but I'm going to be careful of it now.  Thank you.   

1 hour ago, Bassin' Brad said:

Thand! You made some good points! What # test you using on that Yo-Zuri hybrid?? 

For crankbaits I have a Tatula CT with 12lb Yo-Zuri Hybrid.  But listen to the more experienced guys on here if they tell you something different.  I'm still in the experimental stage with the hybrid.  And it's super inexpensive!  So I don't cry when I screw it up!

[Dtrombly]

I like fluoro or coplymer. Usually #12-#15. If your going to be cranking rocks and brush I'd check out Seagar AbrazX. For some added confidence. 

[tander]

I still like mono in 12-15# test. 

[new2BC4bass]

https://video.search.yahoo.com/yhs/search?fr=yhs-pty-pty_converter&hsimp=yhs-pty_converter&hspart=pty&p=braid+abrasion+test+youtube#id=1&vid=ede4764a7454375f71e6cadc67b526c9&action=view

 

I didn't find the video I originally watched.  There are a few videos on the link above.  30# braid breaks almost instantly when dragged across a concrete step.  The second video compares 150# braid against an equal diameter mono (30#) and then against 80# mono.  In both cases the braid beat the mono.  So the moral of the story is do not fish with light braid...such as 50#-65# if looking for abrasion resistance. 

[Columbia Craw]

I'm a fan of Sunline Supernatural mono.  It's never let me down and the cast ability is extremely good. It's on sale at TW right now, which is nice.

[rangerjockey]

I seldom throw lipless baits . But for Squarebills to wiggle warts to DD22'S I use 8 or 10 lb, Invisx.

 It handles great and has just the right amount of stretch.