Keithscatch Posted October 12, 2006 Posted October 12, 2006 Man, Russ. A V hull is a horrible option for a small boat. One time I took my 20' Skeeter out in the Gulf near Pensacola. My friend was with me and we followed his friend out. We didn't go far but it was sort of rough. Anyway, we were sitting still as my friend was rigging up his boat. I elbowed my friend and said look at them. They were rocking around like crazy going side to side in the waves. he had a V hull bow rider style boat. Great rough water driving but stupid silly for sitting still. My boat was hardly rocking. It was so dramatic it was crazy seeing the two boats side by side. Point Cart and I are ma,king is your boat is not going to cut through rough water. It is suppose to be sitting still. Making a v-hull in any form will mean making your boat very tippy. There is a reason Jon boats are flat. It is to make them more stable. If making a v-hull that small was possible then believe me others would have done it by now. Plus, adding a deck on top means even more height which is more tippy then sitting down inside of a canoe for example. Imagine making a deck on a canoe. Now try to stand on that sucker. Whoopsy there you go. A tri hull makes more sense if you really want the look sideways at least of a bass boat. Personally I would make it flat till about the front then make that a v-hull. That way you have a good portion of the back that is flat and more stable and the front would be narrow and more v-shaped. Also, another idea for the decking is to make the top deck slide shut. You can have an open compartment in the middle. Just slide the deck like a sliding glass door over the decking in the front. Then slide it back to lock it in place to make a 1 piece looking deck. That would give you dry storage and lots of places to fit tackle etc. Cool idea but loose the V-hull idea. Not a good plan if you ask me. Quote
hotwheels Posted October 15, 2006 Posted October 15, 2006 I found this from Tackle Tour. The dealer price is $5400. http://megabass.co.jp/product_detail.php?keyid=153&item1=9 1440MM, 57" (5ft) X 143" (11.91') 38kg = 84LBS Not bad, but it looks wider. Quote
JayDub Posted October 16, 2006 Posted October 16, 2006 Hey LBH this caught my eye as I was searching used boats near home. It's like a small 14 ft bass boat i guess? I don't know what the inside looks like but maybe you could deck it out? http://dallas.craigslist.org/boa/221027584.html Quote
hotwheels Posted October 18, 2006 Posted October 18, 2006 These may be of some interest. http://www.glen-l.com/submethd.html http://www.glen-l.com/methods/mthdfg01.html http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=20 http://www.freepatentsonline.com/6314906.html Quote
GA BASS HUNTER Posted June 6, 2007 Posted June 6, 2007 I was reading Rauls post about the carbon fiber megabass jon boat and it got me to thinking.First I was thinking of a fiberglass jon boat but if I were going to go that route, why not just make it bass boat shaped but keep it to 12-14 ft and have all deck (no consoles) and elec only. Or it could be done like the megabass boat with a 6-10 hp and a channel for your legs. Wouldn't that be cool on Varner or my place or any of the elec only lakes? A 12 ft bass boat. Any fiberglass workers out there that could give me appx hull weights on somthing like this? Keep in mind, they don't have to be thick. Bracing can be glassed in for torsional rigidity. These won't be pounding waves, a rib system isn't even neccessary. Input guys?? I THINK I'VE GOT THE HULL DESIGN YOUR LOOKING FOR,IT'S A 2000CLAYMONT 14'- 60"WIDE BUILT IN DESTIN FLA.ALL YOU WOULD NEED TO DO IS THE DECKS AND THERE IS A LIP ALL THE WAY AROUND THE INSIDE FOR THAT TO SIT ON...JUST REMOVE THE SEATS AND THE SEAT PEDASTALS CAN ALSO SUPPORT THE CENTER PART OF THE DECK....NO IT'S NOT FOR SALE,BUT IT DOES FISH GREAT WITH 2 65LBS ON THE BACK AND A 28 ON THE FRONT...MAY DO THE DECKS LATER BUT IT HAS A FLAT FLOOR SO IT REALLY DOESN'T NEED DECKS Quote
GA BASS HUNTER Posted June 6, 2007 Posted June 6, 2007 AND ANOTHER WITHOUT ALL MY JUNK IN THE BACKGROUND Quote
GA BASS HUNTER Posted June 6, 2007 Posted June 6, 2007 I THINK IT ONLY WEIGHS ABOUT 350LBS!!!!!! AND WITH THE SEATING THE WAY IT IS THE BALLAST IS DOWN IN THE BOAT SO IT IS VERY,VERY STABLE EVEN WITH BOTH FISHERMAN STAND AND CASTING....ALSO WILL TAKE UP TO 25HP MOTOR...GOT IT ON E BAY FROM AN OLD MAN HERE IN GA. WHO'S SON OWNED A MARINA IN DESTIN WHERE THEY WERE MADE Quote
surfer Posted June 6, 2007 Posted June 6, 2007 Forgive me if I am of topic or repeat something, but I just read the first page of this thread and something jumped out at me. If you are building a boat with electric motor only I think it is a safe assumption it will never be on plane. If that is the case then you can eliminate a lot of drag by changing the back of the boat from square to round. Not specifically round, but a design that would give a smooth release to the water. The square back with a sharp bottom corner is designed for a quick release of the water that is trying to stick to it when on plane. For a slower boat that is not intended to get on plane a canoe shape is much more efficient. I am not recommending a canoe specifically, but a canoe is a prime example of drag efficiency at a fast paddling speed. A 40lb thrust trolling motor took me a little bit faster in a canoe than me and another buddy could row it. Since you are not trying to get on plane you want something that will disturb the water the least. Such as while canoeing the quieter you are the more efficient you are. Not necessarily faster, but more efficient. The more white water you make behind you the more energy it takes away from your system to make that white water. Two canoes strapped together with a deck mounted across could be a fairly cheap test of the trailing edge drag efficiency concept and it would have grate stability like a pontoon. I know, every one would laugh. Those little one person sailboats come to mind also. Quote
Low_Budget_Hooker Posted June 6, 2007 Author Posted June 6, 2007 Good point surfer but that sure would be a perfect hull to use as a mock up for a mold! Nice find. Quote
hotwheels Posted June 7, 2007 Posted June 7, 2007 I remember posting about these awhile ago. Souther boats of Japan came out with a 370 model. A 12' V hull that is 60" wide, is rated for an 18HP motor, and weighs 300lbs. Comes with three storage compartments for the batery / gas tank in the rear, livewell, and tackle storage. It would be nice if it had a rod locker. It looks like a mini Ranger VS. http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=ja&u=http://www.souther.org/&sa=X&oi=translate&resnum=1&ct=result&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dsouther%2Bboats%26hl%3Den%26ie%3DUTF-8 http://www.souther.org/news/SOUTHER370.pdf Quote
snapperd1 Posted June 7, 2007 Posted June 7, 2007 LBH, What you want to do is build a displacement hull. Think river barge. If you can imagine you want a boat that is basicly a large rectalgle that has both ends turned up like the bow section of a jon boat. What you would do is distribute all the weight in the middle of the boat and then put what ever motors you want on the thing. In theory a non planning hull is only going to be able to go so fast. And building a planing hull to run on electric is awaist of time. Unless you are using a hydrogen fuel cell to power a large AC motor you will not beable to generate enough power to plane the boat. There was a guy who use to fish one of the local lakes near me that had a boat built just likeI described and he ran one of the electric outboards on it. It was a very stable and very fast boat. If you look up Ray electric outboards they have agood article on displacment hulls and their efficency. TD Quote
alhuff Posted June 9, 2007 Posted June 9, 2007 LBH, I love the idea...... I saw a show where they were making the larger glass boats and they were making it in two sections, the bottom and then the top and joining the two. Would this work the same way? You could make a mold for the top half and then for the bottom half and join the two. You could mold in any supports that would be necessary and a live well, slead batt box, and any wiring could be done before the halves are joined. Now you have my gears in gear, Alfred Quote
nyleved Posted June 11, 2007 Posted June 11, 2007 You might want to look at a Gheenoe. http://www.customgheenoe.com/ http://www.gheenoe.net/ Quote
rvrnr64 Posted June 13, 2007 Posted June 13, 2007 I don't know what price range you're looking at and if you're deadset on making it yourself but I've got a 12' Porta-Bote and it does great on the rivers here in VA. I've also had it on a lake and did really well there too. I've got a 6hp Nissan pushing it and imagine a decent size trolling motor would push it pretty good on a pond or lake. The hull itself weighs 69lbs but that doesn't include the seats. I put the hull on top of my Jeep and all the seats inside. I didn't read all the posts so I don't know if anyone else has suggested this but I just thought I'd give you another option. If you want to look at it go to Porta-Bote.com. Let me know what you think. Quote
Low_Budget_Hooker Posted June 13, 2007 Author Posted June 13, 2007 rvrnr- I actually have a few boats already, this is just a "what if" or a "how would I" thread. I just thought it was a cool idea for smaller water or electric only water boaters to look into. Quote
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