Two questions

[jimmyjoe]

   1) I'm going to use a fluorocarbon leader for bass crankbaits in an area where there are pike. What's the smallest diameter you would recommend I use?  2) Which fluorocarbon line ties the smallest, tightest knot without slipping?     Thnx  ..... jj

[roadwarrior]

I think monofilament would be a better choice for all treble hook lures, specifically

Sunline Shooter #11 Defier Armilo.

 

 

[Sam]

Jimmy, what Roadwarrior said plus using some fast drying glue on any knot you tie.

 

I use Kwik-Fix Super Glue with a brush on cap for my knots. Holds all knots together.

 

Some pros are now using fluorocarbon line for crankbaits but the mono has the stretch you need to set the hooks and not pull the bait out of the bass' mouth.

 

Since there are pike in the area I suggest bringing a number of your favorite color crankbaits plus a couple of reels with spools filled with fresh line. 

 

My last encounter was with a striper on the Historic James River that hit my crankbait as I was pulling it out of the water next to the boat and he kept on going. I am sure you may be facing the same problem in your neck of the woods.

[Raul]

Fluoro also stretches .........

[jimmyjoe]

   Thx guys. I knew fc stretches, but I had anticipated that I would have to use so high a test that it wouldn't make any difference .... I just had no idea HOW high a test. It's annoying as heck when you're fishing your favorite crankbait, and TUG ... and nothing. No lure, no fish. I'm no lover of pike, that's for sure. And I didn't think mono was the type of line to be tooth-resistant at all, at any size. I tried 17# Trilene xl, because I could tie my terminal knot a little easier. Chomp. It didn't happen right away, but it happened eventually all the same. And I tried P-line Fluoroclear. Tying small, tight knots with that was impossible, altho it seemed to be a much better line to fight the occasional pike. (Sometimes. in August and early Sept, the pike are more than just "occasional".) The P-line, being part fc, was what got me to thinking about using fc as a leader material. I tried Vanish, but that was a fiasco. I think a bluegill could break that stuff. So anyway, I thought I'd ask here. I figured that somewhere, someone fished for bass where there were pike the way I do, and could give me advice on minimum size line. And yes, I tried metal leaders. If the water was muddy, that was OK. But if the water wasn't real murky, the hit count went way down. A friend of mine advised Maxima Chameleon in a higher test. He says it's really abrasion resistant. I didn't try it because I thought there wasn't any mono at all that would resist a pike's teeth. Maybe I'm wrong. Anyone use Chameleon?     jj

[CroakHunter]

17Lb p line cxx. Just my suggestion. 

[MickD]

I don't think there is single correct answer to the question of minimum pound test to prevent loss of lures to pike.  Everything is a trade-off.  The higher the pound test the higher the visibility and the more resistant to teeth.  I would try one of two things, or both.  One would be tieable titanium leader of about 20 pound test.  It's pretty fine and not that visible.  The other would be a 12 inch heavy flouro leader on the end of the regular leader-I would think about 40 pounds test would make a big difference, but it is not absolutely bite proof and is certainly not invisible.  Buy leader material; it's supposed to be tougher than flouro designed to be line.  There is also saltwater hard mono leader material that sure feels tough.

[jimmyjoe]

2 hours ago, MickD said:

There is also saltwater hard mono leader material that sure feels tough.

That's something I hadn't thought of. I can chk into it. Thnx.   jj

[MickD]

Regarding your knot question, I don't believe there is any significant difference in diameters of FC or monos of the same test. Minor, yes, but significant, no.  FC's are slightly smaller than equal test monos.    So the issue is moot with regard to your selection of lines/leaders.  Knots which work on one will work with the other.  Just remember to wet the knots as you seat them.  For what you are trying to do, I would make the heavy or metal leader short enough so it doesn't enter the tiptop.

[Team9nine]

11 hours ago, jimmyjoe said:

   Thx guys. I knew fc stretches, but I had anticipated that I would have to use so high a test that it wouldn't make any difference .... I just had no idea HOW high a test. It's annoying as heck when you're fishing your favorite crankbait, and TUG ... and nothing. No lure, no fish. I'm no lover of pike, that's for sure. And I didn't think mono was the type of line to be tooth-resistant at all, at any size. I tried 17# Trilene xl, because I could tie my terminal knot a little easier. Chomp. It didn't happen right away, but it happened eventually all the same. And I tried P-line Fluoroclear. Tying small, tight knots with that was impossible, altho it seemed to be a much better line to fight the occasional pike. (Sometimes. in August and early Sept, the pike are more than just "occasional".) The P-line, being part fc, was what got me to thinking about using fc as a leader material. I tried Vanish, but that was a fiasco. I think a bluegill could break that stuff. So anyway, I thought I'd ask here. I figured that somewhere, someone fished for bass where there were pike the way I do, and could give me advice on minimum size line. And yes, I tried metal leaders. If the water was muddy, that was OK. But if the water wasn't real murky, the hit count went way down. A friend of mine advised Maxima Chameleon in a higher test. He says it's really abrasion resistant. I didn't try it because I thought there wasn't any mono at all that would resist a pike's teeth. Maybe I'm wrong. Anyone use Chameleon?     jj

 

All my northern Spoonplugging friends who constantly deal with pike, muskies and zebra mussels use 50# to 80# leaders, either fluoro or mono.

 

[jimmyjoe]

1 hour ago, Team9nine said:

All my northern Spoonplugging friends who constantly deal with pike, muskies and zebra mussels use 50# to 80# leaders, either fluoro or mono.

Ouch!!!  Well, now I know, don't I.    jj

[A-Jay]

With an abundant number of gator pike here - and I do mean abundant & Gator - using any nylon line on the waters where they live usually means I get bit off early & often.

I use knottable very thin wire - 

A-Jay

 

 

[jimmyjoe]

  I can try that, too. American Fishing Wire has always made good products. As for "knottable" ..... I went that route years ago. Results were not very good. But I can try again; I notice that many different things have improved or changed a great deal in 30 years.   Thnx A-Jay.     jj

[Scott F]

1 hour ago, jimmyjoe said:

  I can try that, too. American Fishing Wire has always made good products. As for "knottable" ..... I went that route years ago. Results were not very good. But I can try again; I notice that many different things have improved or changed a great deal in 30 years.   Thnx A-Jay.     jj

As you've already seen, the "knottable" wire can be tied into a knot, tying it isn't the same as tying mono. It does take a bit of practice to tie it without making look like a pigs tail.

[Sam]

On ‎11‎/‎25‎/‎2017 at 10:23 AM, Raul said:

Fluoro also stretches .........

Yes.

 

At the Bassmaster Classic in South Carolina I had the wonderful opportunity to speak with the guys from Pure Fishing. Dr. Keith Jones did not make the trip but his staff did. A great bunch of guys.

 

They showed me that fluorocarbon line does in fact stretch. Not as much as mono, but it stretches just the same.

 

We then played around with the various rod power ratings, showing the difference between a light and heavy and all in-between.

 

Us old guys like mono for treble hook baits while the new pros are going with fluorocarbon.

 

Just another reason to attend a Bassmaster Classic in your lifetime. Fantastic event!