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Posted

Well, the deal with the ranger fell through. He sold it the day before I was supposed to go up there and test it. So I had this boat in the back of my mind that I found a while back. Just give me some adivce on your expirience with this boat and motor. I'm going to test it Sat. and got him down to 8,300.

1996 Pro Craft 185 Pro single console

1996 Mercury 150 EFI- 3 blade prop

Fish finder/ gps combo- Lowrance LCX-28c HD

Front fish finder- color Lowrance 102c

Minn Kota 74lb trolling motor 24v

Three new batteries

New livewell pumps

Hot Foot

New finger trim switch on steering wheel

Tires are almost new

3 bank on board charger

Also new water pump

This boat runs excellent. Top speed on GPS is about 65mph. Electronics are only 3 months old and cost $1,700.00. A recent sickness in my family forces me to sell. Carpet is original and in good shape. And just a few minor spots in the clear coat.

post-9194-13016290756_thumb.jpg

Posted

I'm going down to Sinclair to test it out for a little while and look it over good. Anything special that I need to look at on the boat/motor.... I really apreciate y'alls advice on these boats I've posted..... ;D

Posted

Anything that was posted in regards to checking out on the Ranger still applies.  If possible, I would insist on at least a compression check on the engine.  The pix look good.

Posted

I concur on the compression check... I know a guy that bought a boat back in Feb. that looked like a GEM but after a couple trips to the lake he just knew something wasn't right b/c the top end on it was about 15 to 18 mph off what it should be.  He took it to a local marina and they came back saying one piston was on the verge of dropping out and that it was only putting out 1/4 the output it should.

Posted

Have a mechanic check the compression and just general health of an engine. Ask him if it looks like it's been taken care of or not - they can tell. EFI Mercury's are pretty bulletproof engines with a good track record (Mercury still makes them on limited basis like this year when they bank enough pollution credits so parts are readily available as well as know how on them).

Other than that take the transom saver off and pull up on the engine nice and hard to see how the transom does and look at it from the inside - push on it and knock on it.

If those 2 things check out everything else can be dealt with as it pops up without too much trouble.

Give the trailer a pretty good look see too like tires before you haul it home.

Good luck.

  • Super User
Posted

It is probably a pretty good deal. NADA shows $9000 with a 175 instead of a 150. The electronics should off set the motor and it is PRE Johnny Morris which should count for something. ;)

Posted

Alright thanks for all the replies.... I don't have any way of checking the compression.... which pretty much sucks... But once I get it back to the house I could take up to the local shop and have them look at, but by then it will have already been bought. Other than the compression and engine check, I need to check the transom good. Anything else?

While test driving it, is there anything specific that I need to do? Like run it wide open for a while... Or what? I'm new to this, seeing as how I used to have a 84 procraft fish and ski....

Thanks

Posted

Ask the guy to drop it off for a compression check and pay for it before you go look at it, or before you pay for it after you drive it.

I can't stress enough how important this is, it should only cost like $50 or less. Without it there's no way of knowing if the boat is being dumped on you. It could last 15 minutes after you buy and then your out a motor and honestly on a boat that age it's the most expensive part. For a new powerhead install if it went out you'd be looking at 50% what you paid for the boat alone. $50 is cheap insurance.

Posted

You can buy cheap compression tester at most parts places. I'm sure the come with some instructions. Just take all spark plugs out screw the tester in and turn motor over. Do in some order and record. No more than a 10% difference and check manufaucter for specs..

Garnet

Posted

Is this last part right,take out all the spark plugs at once?I thought you took one out at a time and turn the engine over four times to get the compression reading and do that for each cylinder.I thought if you

took all plugs out the engine,it would read higher than one at a time? :-?

Posted

I just went out and got a $30 compression tester, It goes up to 300lbs per sq. inch. So.... When I attach it to the spark plug port, and turn the motor over what is a good reading to get out of it, and what is a bad reading? Do you turn the motor over out of the water??? I've always heard this is bad....?

Posted

I have never done it myself I always get a mechanic to do it. I'm guessing like a car you have to disable the ability of the motor to actually crank while checking the compression (like pull the plug wires, pull the deadman etc...)

I don't know what number your looking for but I've always heard the key is to get them as close to each other.

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