Matching Line to Lures, Reels, and Rods

[DaddyTactics]

So, while I have fallen victim to my share of broken lines and lost lures, I often wonder whether or not I’m pairing my line with the right tackle; obviously not! In my search for answers, very specific answers at that, I’ve come across what seems to have been the most thorough and yet efficient article on ‘bassfishin’ website titled fishing-line-guide [I couldn’t add link for some reason].

 

I mean, yes!!! Finally, a very detailed article, but... wow! I couldn’t help but feeling like my three rod, three reel arsenal will get me no where. I realize that there ideal setups per technique or presentation but where’s the middle of the road? How can I make the most out of a reel without having to switch out the line with each lure change? For example, if one of my rod and reel combos can work many techniques and handle (obviously) the weight of many lures but technically based on the article requires a different line for each, how do I get around having to switch out the line? Does anyone have better recommendations?

 

I fish (freshwater) with monofilament because I’m fairly new to fishing and that’s what’s always recommended to me. My current reels and rods are as follows:

 

G.Loomis

Mag Bass 782c 6’6” Med Fast

Mag Bass 844c 7’ Heavy Fast

Crankbait 864C DF 7’2” Med-Heavy Mod

 

Shimano

Chronarch 200E7 7.0:1

Curado K 6.2:1 & 8.5:1

 

[TOXIC]

What you are getting confused by is that there are preferred lb test and or types of line that have characteristics that enhance a certain presentation.  If I only had one line to choose for everything it would be 12lb mono.  I can make that work in almost every situation.  Remember, line manufacturers have to keep us buying so there will always be something new to spark your interest.  Each type of line lends itself to certain presentations better so you need to learn what they do best and the situations they will not work.   

[GrumpyOlPhartte]

What @TOXIC said!!! I’ve only been back into bassin’ for about three years and was driving myself to the poorhouse buying “esoteric” braids, fluorocarbons, and whatever else they could sucker me into buying. In the end, I put braid on my frogging rod (which doubles as a jig and larger soft plastics rod) but either copolymer or mono on my other rods, be they spinning or casting. At my experience level I find any advantages of fluorocarbon to be negated by my inability to use it without constant “amateur overruns”. As in your case, I use three rods when out in my kayak. One rod with 30-pound braid as mentioned above, one with 12-pound mono (or copolymer) and I’m considering 6- to 10-pound for my latest acquisition; a medium-light, fast-action spinning rig for the light stuff. Both mono and copolymer work fine for me fishing the small lakes of Massachusetts. Probably not gonna hook too many double-digit bass.

[NHBull]

No reason you can’t run braid across the board and swap out leaders.

i want to this last year with very good results.

straight braid with surface baits

[GrumpyOlPhartte]

I have to agree with @NHBull and did try that route; however, because my rods now all have the micro-guides I found I was redoing my line/leader knots too often. For some reason, even a Crazy Alberto knot or an FG knot tends to fray or unravel, even when I used the Rizutto finish. I had no problems with rods that had larger guides and I’m sure my own knot-tying skills may be an issue since several folks on here state they have no issues with the smaller guides. For me, the objective is to eliminate the line/leader knots if possible. I have thought about trying light (10- to 12- pound test) braid, but, to be honest, I just don’t need any more half-used spools of line sitting around!  That being said, NHBull has given me great advice in the past and I’d certainly listen to him.

[fishballer06]

Holy tags...

 

[Chance_Taker4]

The way I choose line is if you want your baits deeper in the water column go Fluorocarbon, higher in the water column go Co-Poly, fishing thick heavy cover go braid. I usually run 10-12lb on co-poly or fluoro and 40lb for braid.

[DaddyTactics]

1 hour ago, fishballer06 said:

Holy tags...

 

Hahaha the frustration’s real!!! 

I thank you all for your input. I at least know now I’m not going crazy with all the choices a well played marketing schemes. 

[Angry John]

Go braid 40 or 50 on the heaviest rod for punching pitching and frogs.  Put 12 lb yhb copoly on the lighter rod and use it for everything else including cranking.  Braid leader does work and work well but I do this mainly on spinning rods due to line twist.  15 lb 832 is my favorite but some like others like diffrent stuff.  The knots are very small on 15 lb braid to 10 or so mono or flouro.  My reels have two spools one runs 6lb yhb and the other 15 lb braid with 6 or 10 lb leader.

 

I have a lot of setups but try to minimize the amount of lines to reduce complications.  Braid lasts so for now I fill a spool an toss the rest in the trash.  No need to store 10-15 yards.  Then I have 6 for spinning 10,12,and 15 yhb for casting rods.    In your case I would pick 10 or 12 and be done.

 

 

[Djohn]

20 pound braid does most everything for me. Like an earlier post said add a leader to match the situation.

[IndianaFinesse]

If I were you, depending on what type of waters you fish and what you fish the most (which would be helpful), this is how I would pair your rods, reels, and lines.

 

I'd put your 8.5:1 curado k on the 7' heavy rod, and spool it up with 40-50 pound braid.  It could be used for frogs, pitching and light punching, big jigs, and larger topwater.  

 

Next I'd put the other 6.2:1 curado k on the 7'2" medium heavy moderate rod, spooled with 12 pound mono.  I would mostly use it for cranks

 

Last I would pair the 6'6" medium power fast rod with the cronarch, and you could either spool it with 10-12 pound mono or go with 30 pound braid.  Both will work, that's largely dependent on personal preference and your individual lakes and lures.  It would be an all purpose rod, and could throw about everything else that the other two could not.

 

BTW, I would highly suggest a spinning rod.  Something around 6'9"-7', medium lite  powered with a fast tip.

 

[DaddyTactics]

@Angry John @IndianaFinesse Thanks a million. 

@IndianaFinesse If I may, why should I pick up that specific rod reel combo? 

[IndianaFinesse]

33 minutes ago, DaddyTactics said:

@Angry John @IndianaFinesse Thanks a million. 

@IndianaFinesse If I may, why should I pick up that specific rod reel combo? 

I'm not saying have to, I just thought that was part of what you were asking when you listed your rods and reels the way you did.  I paired the reels with the rods that I thought would work best for the techniques that rod could handle.

 

IE, a very high speed reel comes in handy for fishing frogs, slack line topwater, jigs, and pitching.  Some people really like it for punching to, and that list is pretty close to the list of lures that a typical 7' heavy rod can throw effectively.

 

Most people prefer a slower reel for cranking, which is exactly what your moderate action rod does best.

 

And for your all purpose rod, it will likely be the rod you use the most by far.  So I figured put your nicest reel on it, plus 7.1:1 is a pretty good all around ratio.

 

If your asking about the spinning rod, a spinning rod can throw lighter baits than a baitcaster.  You're going to have a tough time throwing a 1/16 oz.ned rig, an 1/8 ounce shaky head, lighter drop shots, and all of the other finesse techniques on casting gear without spending a gob of money.  6'9"-7'  medium-lite or medium powered rod with a  fast action is a pretty good all around spinning rod.

[Angry John]

For the money the 610mlxf elite bass is nice.  2000 daiwa reel.

[WRB]

On 11/2/2017 at 2:45 AM, DaddyTactics said:

So, while I have fallen victim to my share of broken lines and lost lures, I often wonder whether or not I’m pairing my line with the right tackle; obviously not! In my search for answers, very specific answers at that, I’ve come across what seems to have been the most thorough and yet efficient article on ‘bassfishin’ website titled fishing-line-guide [I couldn’t add link for some reason].

 

I mean, yes!!! Finally, a very detailed article, but... wow! I couldn’t help but feeling like my three rod, three reel arsenal will get me no where. I realize that there ideal setups per technique or presentation but where’s the middle of the road? How can I make the most out of a reel without having to switch out the line with each lure change? For example, if one of my rod and reel combos can work many techniques and handle (obviously) the weight of many lures but technically based on the article requires a different line for each, how do I get around having to switch out the line? Does anyone have better recommendations?

 

I fish (freshwater) with monofilament because I’m fairly new to fishing and that’s what’s always recommended to me. My current reels and rods are as follows:

 

G.Loomis

Mag Bass 782c 6’6” Med Fast

Mag Bass 844c 7’ Heavy Fast

Crankbait 864C DF 7’2” Med-Heavy Mod

 

Shimano

Chronarch 200E7 7.0:1

Curado K 6.2:1 & 8.5:1

 

6’6” *Crank bait w/Curado K 6.2:1, 12 lb Big Game. Lipless & Diving crank baits, spinnerbaits.

Loomis 782c w/Chronark, 11 lb Sunline Armilo Defier Nylon. Everything except jigs/worms.

Loomis 844C w/ Curado 8.5:1, 13 lb Sunline Shooter Diefer Copoly mono. Jigs and worms.

Tom

* you need a longer rod for deep diving crankbaits, ok for square bills.

PS, reading this thread points out there isn’t any consensus on bass fishing line to use. What you get is my preference along with everyone else.

[DaddyTactics]

On 11/3/2017 at 7:28 AM, IndianaFinesse said:

If your asking about the spinning rod, a spinning rod can throw lighter baits than a baitcaster.  You're going to have a tough time throwing a 1/16 oz.ned rig, an 1/8 ounce shaky head, lighter drop shots, and all of the other finesse techniques on casting gear without spending a gob of money.

Thank you!