Lund Renegade Bass Boat

[Hattrick]

Yep Jibber's got it!  We need to buy the M-Y Wedge universal model.

Bought mine at Cabelas in store.   

https://www.cabelas.com/product/M-YWEDGE-MOTOR-SUPPORT/2030926.uts?slotId=0

[Hattrick]

OK just got back from taking her out for her second hour of break in.  Outboard is butter smooth thankfully no issues. How much water if at all are you renegade owners draining out of hull when you pull her out of the water?  Gotta a couple pints over a 5 hour trip.  Not to concerned but may fill hull with water to see where some water maybe be getting in.

[Tim Kelly]

Don't fill the hull with water unless you've exhausted every other option. Puts a huge amount of strain on the trailer and the hull adding all that weight!. Firstly, check the drain plug. If it's the screw in type, put a little silicone grease round the O ring and tighten it up really snug. If that doesn't help, then pay close attention to the livewell hose connections and the through hull connections. Do a process of elimination of the fittings. The least likely place for a new boat to be leaking is through the construction of the hull.

[slonezp]

4 hours ago, Hattrick said:

OK just got back from taking her out for her second hour of break in.  Outboard is butter smooth thankfully no issues. How much water if at all are you renegade owners draining out of hull when you pull her out of the water?  Gotta a couple pints over a 5 hour trip.  Not to concerned but may fill hull with water to see where some water maybe be getting in.

I would check all the plumbing connections first before I filled it with water.

[Jibber82]

Took my Renegade out today to start the break in. Boat is freaking awesome! Only thing I was concerned with and maybe Renegade and any others with the 115 can chime in here but at full throttle I was only getting about 5300 rpm and about 46 mph. I thought this motor was supposed to top out at 6300 rpm. Is there like a safety break in period or something I don't know about?

[Janderson45]

5300 RPMs does seem low to me.. if set up properly I would expect to see closer to 5800rpms at WOT- but I'll let other guys with a lot more knowledge and experience about outboard performance chime in... I put an E-Tec on mine and will be interested to see how it compares to all you guys with the Merc XS.  

[RenegadeBassin]

Mine gets like 6200. Spitfire X7 17p

[BigAngus752]

23 hours ago, Hattrick said:

OK just got back from taking her out for her second hour of break in.  Outboard is butter smooth thankfully no issues. How much water if at all are you renegade owners draining out of hull when you pull her out of the water?  Gotta a couple pints over a 5 hour trip.  Not to concerned but may fill hull with water to see where some water maybe be getting in.

I have a Ranger RT188 with a screw in plug.  Last year the tether broke off so when I had it winterized I had them put a whole new plug/bracket in.  Plug looks the same but isn't as dry.  The last one worked with only a snug turn.  This one I have to screw in really, really tight.  The last time I went out I started pumping out with my auto bilge shortly after putting in so I stuck an arm in the water and turned it one more quarter of a turn.  Four hours later and I didn't have a drop when I trailered.  Just one quarter of a turn was the difference between two gallons and not a drip.  

[Jibber82]

1 hour ago, RenegadeBassin said:

Mine gets like 6200. Spitfire X7 17p

I have the stainless Spitfire X7 19p. Do you think the difference between the 17p and 19p would account for the 1000 rpm difference in WOT rpm?

[Further North]

On 6/15/2018 at 4:06 PM, Hattrick said:

OK just got back from taking her out for her second hour of break in.  Outboard is butter smooth thankfully no issues. How much water if at all are you renegade owners draining out of hull when you pull her out of the water?  Gotta a couple pints over a 5 hour trip.  Not to concerned but may fill hull with water to see where some water maybe be getting in.

On a new boat...I can't think of a reason why you'd have any water inside unless it was raining, or something else external put water over the sides.

 

My boat is an '05 and it's bone dry, every time, always has been...unless it's raining or I've done something stupid and taken water of the side or the transom.

[Hattrick]

5 hours ago, Further North said:

On a new boat...I can't think of a reason why you'd have any water inside unless it was raining, or something else external put water over the sides.

 

My boat is an '05 and it's bone dry, every time, always has been...unless it's raining or I've done something stupid and taken water of the side or the transom.

Yeah took her out today with the family and barely anything came out. I'm pretty sure it was rain water that was trapped from a few rain storms while my boat was at the dealer. Boat ramp is steeper the the driveway so I didn't get it all out until my first trip after the  dealer.  No biggie. 

[Further North]

1 hour ago, Hattrick said:

Yeah took her out today with the family and barely anything came out. I'm pretty sure it was rain water that was trapped from a few rain storms while my boat was at the dealer. Boat ramp is steeper the the driveway so I didn't get it all out until my first trip after the  dealer.  No biggie. 

That'll do it.  Glad it was better!

[RenegadeBassin]

On 6/16/2018 at 6:16 PM, Jibber82 said:

I have the stainless Spitfire X7 19p. Do you think the difference between the 17p and 19p would account for the 1000 rpm difference in WOT rpm?

Some of these other more knowledgable guys may know for sure but I'm pretty sure the average rpm increase by going down one incriment in pitch is 200 rpms. I wouldn't go any lower than a 17p though I think there has to be another reason why you are only getting 5300. Right now I am getting around 49-50 mph, but I had my boat out at my camp all weekend and my dad told me that he thinks my powerpoles may be dragging a little. I had never noticed cause I'm always driving the boat, but he was following me in his and said he saw some abnormal spray coming up. I have them set as low as they'll go. I'm interested to see what kind of performance increase I'll see when I raise them up. Maybe nothing...but we'll see!

[Jibber82]

25 minutes ago, RenegadeBassin said:

Some of these other more knowledgable guys may know for sure but I'm pretty sure the average rpm increase by going down one incriment in pitch is 200 rpms. I wouldn't go any lower than a 17p though I think there has to be another reason why you are only getting 5300. Right now I am getting around 49-50 mph, but I had my boat out at my camp all weekend and my dad told me that he thinks my powerpoles may be dragging a little. I had never noticed cause I'm always driving the boat, but he was following me in his and said he saw some abnormal spray coming up. I have them set as low as they'll go. I'm interested to see what kind of performance increase I'll see when I raise them up. Maybe nothing...but we'll see!

Ok thanks for the info. I do have a pretty significant rooster tail coming from the SI transducer. Maybe that has something to do with it.

[Hattrick]

On 6/9/2018 at 8:47 PM, Jibber82 said:

Finally after almost 3 long months she's home. Too bad the dealership couldn't register it. Will have to wait a few days for the maiden voyage.

 

 

Hey Jibber, something I just noticed in this pic. I have my Minn Kota charger mounted in the same spot you have your charger.   Both of us have our chargers mounted directly to the aluminum.  Are you worried at all about electrolysis?  I'm thinking about returning the Minn Kota and going with the smaller Noco Genius mini that will give me enough space to mount it to wood or plastic do no corrosion forms.   What are your thoughts? 

[Jibber82]

5 minutes ago, Hattrick said:

Hey Jibber, something I just noticed in this pic. I have my Minn Kota charger mounted in the same spot you have your charger.   Both of us have our chargers mounted directly to the aluminum.  Are you worried at all about electrolysis?  I'm thinking about returning the Minn Kota and going with the smaller Noco Genius mini that will give me enough space to mount it to wood or plastic do no corrosion forms.   What are your thoughts? 

To be honest with you electrolysis never crossed my mind. Is this something to worry about? I will most likely leave it as is and keep an eye on it. The charger is working perfectly. 

[Hattrick]

Well it never crossed mine either but after reading the install instructions that Minn Kota provided they recommend mounting the charger to something other than aluminum... problem is there is no room to do that.  The dealer was just going to install the charger straight to aluminum as well. I thought about it a little more today and I think we're OK.  As long as the charger is not mounted to hull structure we have time to observe any corrosion that might possibly form on the fuel cell divider.  Worst case scenario if you see corrosion starting to form around the base of the charger just pull it out and grind corrosion down and install a smaller Noco Genius style charger that you can easily mount to vinyl or wood.

[Janderson45]

Quick question for you guys that own an 1875-  what is the measurement (length) from console to the front of the TM tray?  Trying to figure out if I can get away with 10' Ethernet cables or if I need the 20' cable to link console and bow Humminbirds?

 

I have 2 helix units to mount on the boat and am likely going to buy a third and link them all in with the Ultrex... haven't quite figured out my placement preferences yet other than the helix 10 Mega SI that's definitely going to be mounted at the console (on a precision sonar mount).  Additionally I have a helix 7SI G2N, and am likely adding a third graph that's either 7" or 9"...  what would you guys recommend?  If I stick the helix 7 SI at the bow would you supplement it with another 7" graph, or at I better off having two graphs at the console and one larger 9" graph at the bow? How important is SI at the bow?  Since I've got the Ultrex w/ link I plan on taking full advantage of the auto pilot and follow the contour features, I'm thinking SI at the bow would be quite useful since the Ultrex would only be making small incremental adjustments?  But maybe I'm not looking at it right..

 

Original plan was for a 10" and 7" graph at the console for constant SI, CHIRP and maps, and then a 9" unit for sonar/maps and DI at the bow... I still can't decide if this is what I really want or not though!  What I really would like is the helix 10 Mega SI at the console and the bow but that's out of the question at the moment as I've already blown my budget for this boat out of the water (no pun intended)

[RenegadeBassin]

4 hours ago, Janderson45 said:

Quick question for you guys that own an 1875-  what is the measurement (length) from console to the front of the TM tray?  Trying to figure out if I can get away with 10' Ethernet cables or if I need the 20' cable to link console and bow Humminbirds?

 

I have 2 helix units to mount on the boat and am likely going to buy a third and link them all in with the Ultrex... haven't quite figured out my placement preferences yet other than the helix 10 Mega SI that's definitely going to be mounted at the console (on a precision sonar mount).  Additionally I have a helix 7SI G2N, and am likely adding a third graph that's either 7" or 9"...  what would you guys recommend?  If I stick the helix 7 SI at the bow would you supplement it with another 7" graph, or at I better off having two graphs at the console and one larger 9" graph at the bow? How important is SI at the bow?  Since I've got the Ultrex w/ link I plan on taking full advantage of the auto pilot and follow the contour features, I'm thinking SI at the bow would be quite useful since the Ultrex would only be making small incremental adjustments?  But maybe I'm not looking at it right..

 

Original plan was for a 10" and 7" graph at the console for constant SI, CHIRP and maps, and then a 9" unit for sonar/maps and DI at the bow... I still can't decide if this is what I really want or not though!  What I really would like is the helix 10 Mega SI at the console and the bow but that's out of the question at the moment as I've already blown my budget for this boat out of the water (no pun intended)

I run one bigger screen on the bow and a big screen and small screen at the console. I use my 7 for mapping and my 10 for SI and everything else. One thing I have learned from this process is unless you fish really popular lakes all the time, you may not even have a map at all. I have two map cards and still only get info for like 2 of the several lakes I fish. But I also live in Maine so I guess I shouldn't of had high expectations. I should've just bought the zero lines card and done a bunch of mapping myself. 

 

I personally have never used SI at the bow. If fish slow, so it wouldn't even work anyway since most the time my boat is stopped or barely drifting. I don't have an ultrex though. I don't know the measurements from the bow to the console but I'm not sure you'd be able to get away with ten foot cables. I guess it would depend on where your ethernet switch is.

[Jibber82]

4 hours ago, Janderson45 said:

Quick question for you guys that own an 1875-  what is the measurement (length) from console to the front of the TM tray?  Trying to figure out if I can get away with 10' Ethernet cables or if I need the 20' cable to link console and bow Humminbirds?

 

I have 2 helix units to mount on the boat and am likely going to buy a third and link them all in with the Ultrex... haven't quite figured out my placement preferences yet other than the helix 10 Mega SI that's definitely going to be mounted at the console (on a precision sonar mount).  Additionally I have a helix 7SI G2N, and am likely adding a third graph that's either 7" or 9"...  what would you guys recommend?  If I stick the helix 7 SI at the bow would you supplement it with another 7" graph, or at I better off having two graphs at the console and one larger 9" graph at the bow? How important is SI at the bow?  Since I've got the Ultrex w/ link I plan on taking full advantage of the auto pilot and follow the contour features, I'm thinking SI at the bow would be quite useful since the Ultrex would only be making small incremental adjustments?  But maybe I'm not looking at it right..

 

Original plan was for a 10" and 7" graph at the console for constant SI, CHIRP and maps, and then a 9" unit for sonar/maps and DI at the bow... I still can't decide if this is what I really want or not though!  What I really would like is the helix 10 Mega SI at the console and the bow but that's out of the question at the moment as I've already blown my budget for this boat out of the water (no pun intended)

I have a Helix 10 DI at the bow and a Helix 10 SI at the console. The DI transducer is the TM transducer and is mounted on the Ultrex while the SI transducer is mounted on the transom. Since everything is networked I can see the data from any transducer on any screen. I also have my console unit on the Precision Sonar mount (awesome very solid mount BTW). I used the 15' Ethernet cable and have the Ethernet switch located inside the console. RenegadeBassin also used the 15' cable (he said so on page 4 of this thread). 

 

If you have everything networked you certainly don't need an SI unit at the bow if you already have one at the console since you'll be able to see the SI data from the transom SI transducer on the bow unit. It would make more sense to have a DI unit at the bow with a DI transducer mounted on the Ultrex since this will give you DI data directly beneath the TM. If I was you I would put the 10 SI in the console on the Precision mount and ram mount the 7 to the side at the console. Then get another 10 DI for the bow.

 

Alternatively, you could flush mount the 7 in the console and ram mount the 10 to the side of the console like Renegade did. This would eliminate the need for the Precision mount. You will still need another unit for the bow though.

 

Good luck!

[Jibber82]

Hey Renegade are you able to get a depth reading from your transom SI transducer when on plane? If so would you mind posting a pic of your transducer mounting location (front and side view)? It would be a huge help!! I can't get a reading on plane and I'm getting a huge rooster tail too.

[RenegadeBassin]

4 minutes ago, Jibber82 said:

Hey Renegade are you able to get a depth reading from your transom SI transducer when on plane? If so would you mind posting a pic of your transducer mounting location (front and side view)? It would be a huge help!! I can't get a reading on plane and I'm getting a huge rooster tail too.

I can't get a reading on plane either. From what I've seen on here and other websites it looks like mine is in a good spot, but the readings are all off as soon as I speed up. 

[Jibber82]

14 minutes ago, RenegadeBassin said:

I can't get a reading on plane either. From what I've seen on here and other websites it looks like mine is in a good spot, but the readings are all off as soon as I speed up. 

Ok good to know. I think mine is also in a good spot but my readings are crazy too as soon as I speed up. I am thinking about getting an AlumaDucer and seeing how that works. If I do it I'll post an update.

[slonezp]

5 hours ago, Jibber82 said:

Hey Renegade are you able to get a depth reading from your transom SI transducer when on plane? If so would you mind posting a pic of your transducer mounting location (front and side view)? It would be a huge help!! I can't get a reading on plane and I'm getting a huge rooster tail too.

SI transducers and aluminum hulls don't play well together for on plane depth readings. If on plane depth readings are a necessity, get an alumaducer

[RenegadeBassin]

Too me its just not very important. Right now I am having a lot of fun playing with autochart live. Tried it out for the first time yesterday and its pretty cool to just be able to idle around and map the entirety of the lake I live on. Since the lakes around me are all pretty small, I am going to try to autochart as many as I can!