Painting bottom of Jon Boat

[Frank19]

I picked up an aluminum Jon boat today.  It's a little old and may have a few small leaks.  I want to find something I can paint the bottom with that is thick enough to seal it up nice and tight.  I know I should paint first with some sort of aluminum primer but what next?  Any suggestions?  I considered herculiner but I hear that it doesn't hold up well when constantly submerged in water.   :-?

[Ozarkie]

http://www.fascoepoxies.com/

Slcik epoxy is what you are looking for its $50.00 for a 2 quart unit covers about 300sq ft.

STEELFLEX SUPER SLICK EPOXY COATING #9X-2000 For airboats. Super slick surface is produced in one operation. Not necessary to spray an additional topcoat. Contains Teflon plus additional friction red additives.

Used on Airboats and does great on river boats!!! I used it on another rover jon and stopped all leaks, slides over rocks great.

Sand with 36 grit, lightly sand  and be sure you work it in the joints. oh be sure and mask the area, I mix about half then when I get it used before it kicks I use the rest of it. I think you will love the stuff after application. About like honey as for viscosity.

Ozarkie

[Catt]

Please handle with care as per MSDS

SECTION 1: PRODUCT IDENTIFICATION:

TRADE NAME:  9XS SUPER STEELFLEX PART 1 RESIN

CHEM NAME: BISPHENOL A/EPICHLOROHYDRIN BASED EPOXY RESIN

HEALTH HAZARDS:

Does not present an immediate health hazard during emergency incidents. Contact with hot material can cause thermal burns.  May cause allergic skin reaction.

INHALATION:  

This material does not normally present an inhalation hazard, however, in applications where vapors (caused by high temperature) or mists (caused by mixing) are created, breathing may cause a mild burning sensation in the nose, throat and lungs.

EYE CONTACT:

May cause temporary discomfort or irritation to the eye.  Contact with hot material can cause thermal burns, which may result in permanent damage or blindness.

SKIN CONTACT:

May be slightly irritating to the skin.  Repeated skin contact may result in an allergic skin reaction causing itching, burning, redness and swelling.  Contact with hot material can cause thermal burns, which may result in permanent damage

MATERIALS TO AVOID:

Can react vigorously with strong oxidizing agents, strong Lewis or mineral acids, and strong mineral and organic bases.  Avoid contact with water or liquids.  Do not allow molten material to contact water or liquids as this can cause violent eruptions, splatter hot material, or ignite flammable material.  Reaction with some curing agents may produce considerable heat and possible violent decomposition..

Other than this it is an excellant EPOXY BASED RESIN  

[Frank19]

Do I still need to use an aluminum primer first with something like that?  Also do you know of anything similar that I can pick up from a local store like Home Depot, Lowes, etc. or do I have to order online?

[Catt]

By all means use a quality primer; you can achieve the same results by simply using fiberglass resin. Scuff sand the bottom first, apply the primer, & then paint on the fiberglass resin till the desired thickness is achieved. The key is you do not want a smooth surface; the fiberglass resin will adhere only to a rough surface. You can ask Home Depot or Lowe's if the have an EPOXY BASED RESIN similar to the one mentioned above, there are dozens on the market.

[Ozarkie]

With Steelflex product you DON'T PRIME!!  You need the ruff surface for the product to grip.

You cannot and will not get the same results with polyester resin.

Primer is to help PAINT HOLD,  primer will act as a release agent. This will not allow Steelflex to hold to the hull.

As with any product you should wear nitrile gloves and use throw away roller to apply.

Simple common sense is simple saftey. Use outdoors

Catt,

This resin is not the same as you buy locally, it is made with teflon and other ingredients to help airboats slide over the grass and ground in a swamp, it also flexs better than the local resin. Anyone who has used polyester resin over aluminum will tell you it will flake and chip DUE TO BEING BRITTLE and no cloth or mat reinforcement.

Epoxy resin is different than polyester resins, also vinylester resins do have more flex than polyester but you will not find vinylesters locally.

Buy the Steelflex product and you will be happy, if you try to cut corners your work and money will be wasted. There are many guides using the steel flex product on their boats that run WHITE RIVER in Arkansas and they do it daily. I have been told by many that the coating last 3to4 years. I do know they run over shoals I cant go over with my jonboat. I have not had time to coat it but that soon to change. With my old boat I scooted right up and over the shoals too.

STEELFLEX SUPER SLICK EPOXY COATING #9X-2000 For airboats. Super slick surface is produced in one operation. Not necessary to spray an additional topcoat. Contains Teflon plus additional friction red additives.  

This stuff is way better than cat will admit and ask cat have you used this product? If not then you dont have any business posting any how to about it.

I am also going to use this product on my canoe since it works great on aluminum boats. I would not waste my money on a product that I could buy local or does not work.

Ozarkie

[coachitall]

Ozarkie,

Will the steelflex product fix leaky rivets?  Where do I get it if it will?

[Frank19]

How much does that stuff usually run?  I understand the whole "do it right the first time" deal but I only bought this boat for $50.  I just want a quick fix, not necessarily something that will last for ever.  

[Low_Budget_Hooker]

Fix the leaks properly.  Less money, last a lot longer.

put boat on saw horses, fill with 5" of water.  Circle leaking rivets with crayon.

Have those few rivets welded OR  drill out old rivet, replace w/ tapered head bolt and nut. (coat bolt threads with 3m 5200 marine adhesive/sealant)

If you are going to use a paint on product to seal it, do it on the inside.

Catt- hate to disagree with such a fine fellow but fiberglass resin DOES NOT last on an aluminum boat.  My boat was loaded with the junk and it wasn't doing anything other than adding weight.  works great for a week or so,...or until the hull gets good flex.

[Frank19]

The previous owner epoxied all the rivets and says he had no leaks after that.  I haven't had it in the water yet so I don't know if that is true or not.

[Catt]

First if you're having problems with fiberglass resin flaking off it's because too much catalyst was added making it harder and the surface was not prepared correctly.

Second there is more than one type of fiberglass resins

1. Epoxy Resin is a low viscosity, light amber laminating resin that is designed for fabricating parts and other demanding structural applications.

2. Polyester Laminating Resin for laminating thin fiberglass skins on plywood or for general purpose fiberglass repairs.

3. Vinyl ester resin for repairing tank linings, blistering boat hulls, as well as fabricating tough all-around parts.

If y'all are using Polyester Laminating Resin the kind used with fiberglass cloth y'all are using the wrong product.

Third Steelflex is a product name for an Epoxy Resin which has Teflon plus added; another readily available Epoxy Resin is System 2000 Epoxy Resin which test results have proven superiority over other room temperature epoxies. Its low viscosity and great handling characteristics make it a favorite in the shop too!

And yes Ozarkie I've used MIL-S-13949/4, while it is impressive to state that it is used on Airboats it is more impressive to state it's used in the Aero Space Industry because of its toughness and flexibility.

Now I've admitted I've used Steelflex you need to admit that by using Polyester Laminating Resin on aluminum you were using the wrong product!

Gee aint this fun reminds me of working for North/Grumman  

[Catt]

This stuff is way better than cat will admit and ask cat have you used this product? If not then you dont have any business posting any how to about it.

FYI this keeps coming up so again my Resume'

Aerospace Industry: 15 years

Job position: Licensed Airframe/Power Plant Mechanic & Manufacturing Engineer

Duties as a mechanic: Preformed periodic depot maintenance (PDM) and structural repairs to the entire airframe including all flight surfaces. Preformed maintenance/overhaul to the aircraft engines and thrust reverser system. Certified in oxygen system, fuel system, hydraulic system, pneumatic system, and cable rigging overhaul/replacement.

Duties as a ME: Organized/planned/scheduled all customer job requirements, wrote work instructions for production, & coordinated between Customer, Operations, Production, and Quality Assurance, SQ&TP (Supplier Quality & Technical Processes and Engineering Design Organization(s) in/on problem resolution. Investigated damage to aircraft, reviewed repair manuals/drawings, choose proper repair/part replacement, & submitted to DER (Design Engineer Representative) for approval. Created work instructions for the fabrication of detailed parts. Ordered all tools, parts, materials required for depot maintenance, repairs and part fabrication.

And what is yours?

[Ozarkie]

I have Used the product and know it works, thats all I need to post. I will not try to baffle you with Bull Crap.

I will use the steelflex product again why? because it works.

Yes, tighten all the rivets first, using sand paper ruff the around on the top of each rivet, then sand the flat areas with a power sander I would use a electric sander so you dont get carried away. You are roughing the surface to give the product a gripping surface. You certainly dont want to seal it with a primer as any primer is designed for paint to grip to, NOT the SteelFlex product.

Aerospace product and working products that are taking the beating on daily use require two different desgined products. Not all products work the same in the same repsect.

Ozarkie

edited to add http://www.fascoepoxies.com/

[Catt]

The function of primers on metal is to passivate the surface and temporarily provide corrosion resistance, and they are used to provide an adhesive base for the next coating. Sometimes, wash primers are also applied to aluminum and other metals to enhance adhesion.

Once again you show your intelligence; Airplanes & boats have plenty in common even down to their terminology. MIL-S-13949/4 (Military Specification) is the same SteelFlex product which has met all requirements of Military Standards for use by the United States Military.

MIL-A-24179A is moisture inhibitive, dissolves adhesives, & displays corrosion-resistant properties. Care to guess what it is? If you guessed WD-40 you would be correct!

Every thing know to man has a Mil spec, Mil Standard, AN (Army/Navy) spec, or some other designation for military use.

[samurai361]

When I painted my hull, I used etching primer which is made for aluminum.  If you do a good job of sealing the hull, then prep it and prime it with etching primer, it won't make much difference what paint you use as long as it's something durable and you like it.  I used oil based deck and porch paint on my old boat and it was tough as nails.  It's like painting a car, it's almost all in the prep.  And you can get a cheap spayer from Northern Tool or Harbor Freight for 20-30 bucks.  Wal-Mart sells them if you can find one in stock.  

[samurai361]

I'm trying to load a picture.  Let's see if it works.