Stretching Flourocarbon

[LionHeart]

Hey guys!  First post here but have been lurking for a while.  I'm trying to learn everything I can about bass fishing and this a been a great place to do it.  I've just started getting into using jigs and have a few questions about fishing line.

 

Last week I went out and couldn't seem to get a hook set to save my life.  It led to a very frustrating afternoon.

 

Gear used:

Rod= St Croix Bass X MH/Mod-Fast  Weight Rating: 3/8-1 1/4

Line= Seagar Red Label Flouro 12lb.

 

Distance at attempted hook sets:

15-20ish yards

 

My hooks weren't laser sharp, but good enough to dig into my finger nail.  I realize I am new to fishing and technique may be largely to blame, but I can't help but wonder if my fishing line isn't a bit too stretchy for good hook sets at those distances.  I also realize my rod is a mod-fast, but I compared it to a Med/Heavy Fast Mojo Bass model and they felt nearly identical in stoutness and bend.  So much so, that I can hardly blame the rod.

 

I went out for a couple of hours yesterday and tried using braid.  The good news is that I noticed a much easier hook set.  I was surprised by the difference in fact.  The bad news is that I noticed quite a bit of sensitivity loss with a semi slack line.  It seemed that I actually had a difficult time keeping the line tight enough to get a similar feel of Flouro (using exact same 3/8 oz. jig).  

 

So 2 questions I suppose.  Since I was using inexpensive braid (Spiderwire EZ), would this contribute to less sensitivity on semi slack line?  Does line lb. test have an effect?

 

Also, I imagine using heavier test Flouro would allow less stretch during hook set, but noticeably less?  

 

I also understand that once stretched, Flouro doesn't tend to return to its original length.  Could I just unspool a new roll of Flouro and give it a good 'pre-stretching' before using it on the water?  What would be the ill affects of this if any?

 

I'm a little overwhelmed here.  Any help would be much appreciated.  Thanks!

[Team9nine]

For the most part, braid is braid, and lack of sensitivity on slack line will be more or less similar across brands due to similar composition. Diameter would only play a negligible role with braid because diameters are already to the thin side, though lower pound tests usually give you better feel since there is less drag on the line.

 

Heavier nylon/copoly/fluoro lines typically stretch less for the same amount of pressure applied. If fishing relatively close in, it might be worth while. The benefit gets lost with longer cast lengths due to increased diameter and drag, though lure type plays some role in this and will vary results.

 

Don't prestretch fluoro. It works fine with nylon based lines, but you risk overall line strength loss by doing the same with fluoro.

 

I would try the MH fast rod and see if that doesn't help out. Also might need to hone your overall hook setting technique, as some methods apply more force than others.

[Sam]

4 hours ago, LionHeart said:

Hey guys!  First post here but have been lurking for a while.  I'm trying to learn everything I can about bass fishing and this a been a great place to do it.  I've just started getting into using jigs and have a few questions about fishing line.

 

Last week I went out and couldn't seem to get a hook set to save my life.  It led to a very frustrating afternoon.

 

Gear used:

Rod= St Croix Bass X MH/Mod-Fast  Weight Rating: 3/8-1 1/4

Line= Seagar Red Label Flouro 12lb.

 

Distance at attempted hook sets:

15-20ish yards

 

My hooks weren't laser sharp, but good enough to dig into my finger nail.  I realize I am new to fishing and technique may be largely to blame, but I can't help but wonder if my fishing line isn't a bit too stretchy for good hook sets at those distances.  I also realize my rod is a mod-fast, but I compared it to a Med/Heavy Fast Mojo Bass model and they felt nearly identical in stoutness and bend.  So much so, that I can hardly blame the rod.

 

I went out for a couple of hours yesterday and tried using braid.  The good news is that I noticed a much easier hook set.  I was surprised by the difference in fact.  The bad news is that I noticed quite a bit of sensitivity loss with a semi slack line.  It seemed that I actually had a difficult time keeping the line tight enough to get a similar feel of Flouro (using exact same 3/8 oz. jig).  

 

So 2 questions I suppose.  Since I was using inexpensive braid (Spiderwire EZ), would this contribute to less sensitivity on semi slack line?  Does line lb. test have an effect?

 

Also, I imagine using heavier test Flouro would allow less stretch during hook set, but noticeably less?  

 

I also understand that once stretched, Flouro doesn't tend to return to its original length.  Could I just unspool a new roll of Flouro and give it a good 'pre-stretching' before using it on the water?  What would be the ill affects of this if any?

 

I'm a little overwhelmed here.  Any help would be much appreciated.  Thanks!

So 2 questions I suppose.  Since I was using inexpensive braid (Spiderwire EZ), would this contribute to less sensitivity on semi slack line?  Does line lb. test have an effect? - YES. LIGHTER TEST THE DEEPER YOU CAN PUT THE BAIT AND IF THE TEST RATING IS IN THE MIDDLE OF THE ROD'S PARAMATERS THE LONGER WILL BE YOUR CASTS. NO, YOU HAVE EXCELLENT SENSITIVITY WITH BRAID.

 

Also, I imagine using heavier test Flouro would allow less stretch during hook set, but noticeably less? -  

 

I also understand that once stretched, Flouro doesn't tend to return to its original length.  Could I just unspool a new roll of Flouro and give it a good 'pre-stretching' before using it on the water?  What would be the ill affects of this if any? - WHEN YOU STRETCH THE LINE YOU WEAKEN IT.

 

DON'T FORGET TO INTRODUCE YOURSELF IN THE INTRODUCTIONS SECTION.

 

GOOD LUCK.

[WRB]

Discribe your hook set technique from the moment you detect a strike. What jig are you using, brand and model?

It requires no more than 30% of the line strength (lb Test) to stretch it! 12 lb FC or mono would be about 3.5 lbs of tension, you do that when fishing with the and try to loosen a snag or catch a stronge bass. 

Tom

[geo g]

Braid is sensitive and has little stretch, so if fish are biting, I think the problem is your hook setting technique.  Make sure you reel down any slack and then set the hook hard.  I have often seen people that don't reel down any slack before setting, or they drop there rod tip before the set, without taking up the slack by reeling down.  Any slack before the set is not good.  This just takes practice, once you get it, it will come automatically.  You will not have to think about it!

[WRB]

Watch Greg Hackney vedio on hook setting jigs. Greg uses the reel and rod sweep set very similar or the same I use and very effective. Another hook set is the whip set where you snap set into controlled slack line, very different technique and also effective.

My point is every angler develops successful hook sets over time.

Line stretch isn't the problem unless the jig hook is very dull or heavy wire flipping jig. Moderate action rod is more than likely the culptret by taking up the energy of the hook setting technique. If you are breaking off during the hook set then you are over powering the knot strength, another issue with FC line.

Tom

[BrianinMD]

There won't be any difference with different braids in regards to slack line sensitivity. The issues is the make up of braid itself, its strong and thin but also not dense. Not being dense the vibration does not travel as well along it.

 

I would be suspect on the mod-fast rod, and hookset itself. Jigs tend to have thicker hooks which take more energy to dig in good especially if you hit a bonier area of the jaw.

[3dees]

I tried flouro and didn't like it. too much memory for me. I use braid and co poly. I think it's something in your hook set and not the line. I can remember when everyone used mono because that's all we had. hook sets were not a problem. I don't understand what kind of sensitivity your expecting on slack line. if fishing with jigs on slack line you need to watch your line for any movement. are you losing fish after the hook set or on the hook set itself? maybe your setting the hook too late. 

[Turtle135]

WRM mentions Greg Hackney above and I will second that advice (check out the youtube video below). I fish my jigs with monofilament ranging from 12 - 17 pound test and I have found that "slowing the hookset process down" and starting to "load the rod tip" before I set the hook increases my hookups. I use Megastrike on my jigs (not because it gets me more bites but because I feel the bass will hold onto the jig longer, giving me more time to detect the bite and set the hook). Keep at it, good luck out there.

 

 

 

 

[LionHeart]

19 hours ago, WRB said:

Discribe your hook set technique from the moment you detect a strike. What jig are you using, brand and model?

It requires no more than 30% of the line strength (lb Test) to stretch it! 12 lb FC or mono would be about 3.5 lbs of tension, you do that when fishing with the and try to loosen a snag or catch a stronge bass. 

Tom

I have been using a 3/8 Finese Jig (don't remember the manufacturer).  The way I have been trying to work the jig is to make a 20-30 yard cast as close to the bank as I can get it, then use my rod tip to lightly drag the lure along the bottom (while reeling up slack as I go).  Every few feet of so I'll raise the rod to about the '10-11 oclock' position to give a couple of hops.  When I feel pressure or pulling on the lure, I will give another quick but very subtle raising of the rod tip to try and confirm I have a fish and not a rock or a log.  If I am convinced, I will now abruptly swing the rod tip from the 10 oclock position to the 1 ocklockish position.  Admittedly, I am generally too excited at this point to have remembered to reel down.  

 

Tried to be as specific as possible, but I am realizing that this isn't the easiest thing for me to describe.

 

 

Thanks guys for all the great input!  The video was helpful.  I plan to go out again on Friday and really try to reel down before setting the hook.  Any more input would be very appreciated.

 

 

 

[WRB]

What you discribed I call horizontal jigging, making a long cast and working the jig along the bottom structure. I wrote a article title Horizontal Jigging for In-Fisherman magazine back in '95, pm me your email address if interested in a copy.

When you cast over 60' horizontal trying to get a solid hook set is different than a more verticle cast because a rod swing doesn't more the jig with any force the further away the jig is without 1st tightening the line. The problem becomes taking up slack line quickly without warning the bass before you perform a hook set.

Like the Greg Hackney video clearly shows is reeling fast to get the hook point started into some mouth flesh prevents the bass from rejecting the jig while at the same time making a hard rod sweep finishes the hook set.

Key issues are the jig hook must be inside the basses mouth, the mouth should closed, the hook must be sharp and have enough force that the hook point penetrates quickly.

Strike detection is critical to catching bass using any lure, jigs are one of the most difficult lures to detect strikes and takes time to learn.

Tom