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Posted

Boat: Alumacraft 1648 MV NCS

 

I framed the two decks using 2x4s with 19/32in untreated plywood. The upper surface of the deck was sealed with two coats of Durabak and then 16oz marine carpet. The carpet was attached using only spray adhesive and staples which I did not have any durability issues with. The four hatches used stainless piano hinges and a pair of air springs. I went with a 24v 70# thurst Minn Kota Maxxum which was bolted to a mount made of angled aluminum and riveted to the preexisting aluminum deck. Four group 27 batteries were stored in the back for weight distribution; two in 24v series for bow trolling motor, one for 12v transom motor, and one accessory battery. Under the deck storage provided plenty of space for tackle and room for rods up to 8'. Overall, the boat proved to be an excellent platform for 2-3 guys on the smaller bodies of water that I fish. I bought the boat new, a more costly option that was worth it to me as I was able to customize it to my standards rather than taking on the project of a used boat with unwanted modifications and uncertain wiring/structural integrity/maintenance. Open to questions + critiques!

 

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Posted

What size are the air springs?  I want to add some to my rod locker, I was planning on getting ones rated at 60Nm, they look just like the ones you have on yours.

Posted
25 minutes ago, Bassn4fun said:

What size are the air springs?  I want to add some to my rod locker, I was planning on getting ones rated at 60Nm, they look just like the ones you have on yours.

2 100N. They weren't enough. Mostly due to their size (12") and the weight of the hatches.

Posted

wow that looks great

 

did you anchor the supports at all to the boat? or are they held in place by pressure?  

 

I have to redo the casting deck I built for my little utility boat soon

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Posted
On 9/29/2017 at 4:47 PM, MrPeanut said:

wow that looks great

 

did you anchor the supports at all to the boat? or are they held in place by pressure?  

 

I have to redo the casting deck I built for my little utility boat soon

The frame started with this trapezoidal support that rested against the aluminum supports to prevent it from shifting backwards. 2x4s along the floor, a tight side to side fit, and overall weight of the deck prevented it from shifting up/forward while trailering. I chose to not attach the back deck to minimize hull modification although I easily could have. No issues while fishing but it slid forward slightly on the road. 

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  • Global Moderator
Posted

Looks good! Is your screen name going to change now? ?

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Posted
1 minute ago, 12poundbass said:

Looks good! Is your screen name going to change now? ?

yes. a project inspired by frustration?

  • Haha 1
Posted

Where did you get the hinges?  Are they screwed into the end grain of the fixed and hatch boards?  How do you think it will hold up long term screwed into the end grain that way?

 

I'm doing the front decks on my project as well, and am having a tough time finding hinges like were used by the factory.  The factory ones have about a 3/4in flap on one side of the hinge that rivets vertically to the frame of the hatch, then the other side of the hinge is L shaped and screws to the wood hatch from the underside.  Ideally, since I will be joining a fixed deck board to a hatch, like your project,  I think I would want a hinge that has an L on both sides of the pivot, to stay away from the end grain for a stronger tie in, but I don't know if the cost is going to be worth it?

  • Super User
Posted

No seats? 

Posted
3 hours ago, TheRodFather said:

Where did you get the hinges?  Are they screwed into the end grain of the fixed and hatch boards?  How do you think it will hold up long term screwed into the end grain that way?

 

I'm doing the front decks on my project as well, and am having a tough time finding hinges like were used by the factory.  The factory ones have about a 3/4in flap on one side of the hinge that rivets vertically to the frame of the hatch, then the other side of the hinge is L shaped and screws to the wood hatch from the underside.  Ideally, since I will be joining a fixed deck board to a hatch, like your project,  I think I would want a hinge that has an L on both sides of the pivot, to stay away from the end grain for a stronger tie in, but I don't know if the cost is going to be worth it?

I bought the 6’ piano hinge from Amazon. The brand was Stanley and seemed to be a high quality hinge with a solid gauge. I did screw into the grain, hatch first then deck. I used every other hole so that it closed tighter. The deck was supported underneath at the seam to reduce vertical pressure on the hinge screws. With no real stress being applied to the connection i’m hoping it will stay solid. 

56 minutes ago, Scott F said:

No seats? 

Most of the lakes I fish it’s a drop the trolling motor and start casting deal. When you don’t have an outboard you fish from point A to B. The foot well created a bench that was enough for me to sit down and retie or relax if need be.

Posted

That's a heck of a casting deck. I like it. A lot. I'd have to add a fishing seat though. 

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Posted
2 hours ago, Scott F said:

No seats? 

Who needs seats when you can stand all day.....

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  • Super User
Posted
10 hours ago, slonezp said:

Who needs seats when you can stand all day.....

Ah to be young and healthy.  I have a hard time standing long enough to pee... Don’t get me started about how long THAT takes these days. 

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