Flipping question

[JustinJ]

I flip with ewg hooks, not a fan of straight shank. How do you avoid having the weight slide to the side? The weight causes the knot to slide which makes the weight not lay directly in front of the bait. Not sure if this has any effect on bait action.  I use a Palomar or improved clinch 

[CroakHunter]

Are you pegging your weight? I use 2 bobber stops

[JustinJ]

Yes I peg. This doesn't happen when I don't peg.

Happens to my friend as well. We were just discussing this the other day while we were fishing and both couldn't figure out a solution 

[CroakHunter]

I was a ewg lover for a long time, still am for big worms, but for flipping I have switched to a straight shank flipping hook, snell knot, bead, weight, and then 2 bobber stops. And I run my plastic a bit up the line with ewg hooks, that way my bead is in contact with the head of the plastic and not the knot, just a little cushion that way the bead isn't beating the crap out of my knot.  Maybe you should try to put a bead between your weight and knot if you aren't already. 

[WRB]

Use a center CPS hook like Owner 5132

Tom

[DINK WHISPERER]

I don't like straight shank much either. I usually conceal the knot inside the bait slightly and trim the tag end short. I also use 6th sense pegs above the weight. 

[WRB]

The problem with pulling the hook eye down into the soft plastic more then 1/16-1/8" is the soft plastic tends to bend to one side if the weight pushes on it.

Your goal should never be being stubbornly loyal to any lure or hook style that causes you problems. Your goal is catching bass so keep an open mind a try out solutions that resolve problems, not solutions that become popular that have issues like off set hooks for flipping.

Tom

[Rollincoal420]

I snell knot my ewg hooks.  I'm also not a fan of straight shank hooks mainly because i run through plastics and can never seen to keep the hook point burried in the plastics, which grabs grass, then tears up the plastics.   With the snell not, the weight doesn't contact the knot and clanks on the hook eye and the knot can't slide to the side of the hook eye.

 

I've heard it's not a good idea to snell ewg hooks, but I have yet to have a problem with hook ups, whenever I do happen to get a bite.

[Catt]

When you peg your weight try leaving 1/16-1/8" gap between the hook & the weight!

[fishballer06]

Try using a snell knot on a straight shank flipping hook 

 

Or, use two bobber stops with your EWG hook. One on each side of the weight. 

[Scarborough817]

if you put the bait over the eye of the hook and put a toothpick or some 40 lb mono through the bait and the eye of the hook it should stay

[Mike L]

20 hours ago, WRB said:

Use a center CPS hook like Owner 5132

Tom

 

Ditto

7 hours ago, Rollincoal420 said:

I've heard it's not a good idea to snell ewg hooks, but I have yet to have a problem with hook ups, whenever I do happen to get a bite.

Before I started useing Onwer's 5132 as Tom mentioned, I snelled ewg hooks all the time and didn't have a problem either that I recall. 

7 hours ago, Catt said:

When you peg your weight try leaving 1/16-1/8" gap between the hook & the weight!

Ditto 

 

[JustinJ]

How would a owner cps hook solve this problem? It's the knot on top of my ewg that's sliding, not the hook

12 hours ago, Catt said:

When you peg your weight try leaving 1/16-1/8" gap between the hook & the weight!

I am going to try this next time I am out 

 

Thanks for all replies

[CroakHunter]

28 minutes ago, JustinJ said:

How would a owner cps hook solve this problem? It's the knot on top of my ewg that's sliding, not the hook

I am going to try this next time I am out 

 

Thanks for all replies

Let us know how it works. Going to keep these ideas in mind if I start having troubles. 

[primetime]

I sometimes have the same problem of my weight sliding but it only happens when I am using really heavy weights and I don't think it matters all that much if your using over 1-1.5 oz since the bait often moves along with the weight while going through, plus its a reaction strike like if someone throws a baseball at you without a warning,  its your instinct to try to catch it. 

 

I never liked straight shank hooks and I use the owners for weightless presentations, but I also like to tie an improved clinch knot or Palomar to save time cause I re-tie anytime I feel like I have taken too many abrasions to prevent break offs, and I would also suggest the bead for 2 reasons.

 

It protects your Knot, If you put your bait too high up the line to cover or compensate for the knot, then the bait gets bent and that is when I think it can change the action even though most plastics are expensive weed guards or just a place to hide your hook.

 

Some baits do glide especially on lighter weights or deeper water, so if I am fishing a bait I want to glide like the Gamber Why not, I like it to be straight so it does not spiral like a Tube or crooked bait, I peg the weight really good, but I leave space with a bead and the more space between the eye of the hook and the big weight, the better the hookset from my experiences. If you only have a tiny space from a clinch knot to a heavy weight, I find I miss more hook sets and the hook doesnt kick out right.

 

I usually will use 2 bobber stops and lock it down if I don't want it to move, the bead adds sound unless it is completely tight, but also allows you some extra space and as long as the bait is going through good on the hook without moving, the weight should be ok even if it gets loose. Its quicker to simply put some living rubber or skirting material in your weight to fix it than it is to tie a snell knot.

 

I hate tying that knot and never noticed it helping, but I know lots of guys who are better than me who always tie a snell knot, but I think they catch more fish than me because they are more accurate & simply more experienced or concentrate better. 

 

Hope that makes sense, I just rambled off a conversation I have all the time. I use thick guage EWG hooks for big creatures like the BPS Flipping Craws or big salt craws etc. 

 

Some guys throw that Jig rig into heavy cover and that is not going down straight, so as long as your line is not getting frayed, you should be good if you reinforce the weight and just put a bead or some type of spacer. 

 

I am a believer that profile, fall rate, accuracy, sound, right color matter more than if the weight is a bit crooked but I get frustrated as well, it just happens at times, but that is why it helps to use baits that do not slide down the hook easy or are too soft/Thin etc. I trust my clinch knots, Palamar knots the most, especially if using fluoro or mono, Snell knots take alot of time and I don't trust them on Fluoro, only trust an improved clinch knot carefully cinched. 

 

I would also make sure you are using the right sized hook, 4/0 vs. 5/0 can be a big difference, same with guage, that will cause movement as well. I guess it can't hurt to learn the snell knot, for some reason I have always felt it is too easy to mess up and time consuming.

[Mike L]

Prime..

Believe it or not there a different ways to tie a snell, I didn't know that when I decided to try it. 

The one I use is bring the main line up the shank, wrap 6 times, through the loop and cinch..

 

It takes more time for me to tie a SDJ which is all I use for non braided lines, and can tie the snell faster than that. But I only use it when punching.

Ya gotta use what you like of course, but thought I'd share anyway. 

 

 

 

 

Mike