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Posted

I'm sort of new to bass fishing, I bought a few reels, I fish a lot of soft plastic and the guy recommended 12lbs trilene big game, i assumed it was fluorocarbon but found out I was mistaken about a month later. This is my education so far on fishing line... fluorocarbon sinks, and it's practically invisible, monofilament floats. (I'm comfortable with my knowledge on braided line) That's all I know. 

The info I need:

- Crankbaits - mono or fluro, what lbs test?

 

-spinnerbait/chatterbait - mono or fluro, what lbs test?

 

- Texas rigs and jigs - mono or fluro, what lbs test?

 

 

  • Super User
Posted

Skip all the head pain and just run a good copoly.  Pune cx or yhb.  Then the only worry is mono for top and braid for frogs and punching 

Posted

I was big on flouro until Lately. in heavier lines it is ok, but knot failures on big fish are frustrating. 

where it shines in my opinion is texas rigs and jigs, it does seem to have more sensitivity than mono.

the only place flourocarbon is generally discouraged is topwater, because it sinks.

Posted
15 minutes ago, Dorado said:

Is copoly good for top water?

My favorite for top water. 

  • Like 1
Posted
17 minutes ago, CroakHunter said:

My favorite for top water. 

Right on. Yo-Zuri hybrid fan?

Posted

Mono, like braid,  is a good, all around choice for just about any presentation. Not the best choice for some techniques, but no line is.  Fluoro has it's strong points, but falls short for topwater, or for use with C-rigs. Mono supposedly stretches more than fluoro and that makes it a poor choice for many soft plastic presentations.  I fished tournaments back in the day when all there was available was mono. We caught plenty of fish.

Posted
58 minutes ago, Dorado said:

Right on. Yo-Zuri hybrid fan?

Never used it, actually have really been enjoying p-line cxx. 

  • Like 1
  • Global Moderator
Posted

I fish copolymer for all 3 you listed. 10-15 for cranks, 15-17 for spinnerbaits and bladed jigs, 10-20 for T rigs and jigs.

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