wading river tips

[caclunker]

always fished boats and banks...went wading a good river the other day...looking for tips like how far to stay from the cover I'm throwing in..shorter steps as opposed to longer strides...completely clueless any help would be appreciated 

[WRB]

Don't put rocks in your pockets!

Tom

[Scott F]

If the river is too murky and you can't see your feet, get a wading staff. Longer strides are the best way to insure that you will be taking a dunking. Don't wet wade. Get stocking foot waders and good wading boots. Cheap wading boots will fall apart pretty quickly. Wet wading is taking the risk of infections, ticks and poison ivy.

[WRB]

Trout and salmon anglers know how to wade rivers, bass anglers don't. If you want good advise on river wading go to the cold water fisherman sites. Water depth, current speed, type of bottom composition and water is covering the bottom all affect your ability to wade and not drown. Using waders you need a chest belt to prevent the waders from filling with water when you slip and fall in the water.

All River fish including bass relate to the current and current breaks, learn how to read moving water.

I would invest in a kayak, you wil be a lot safer and more effective for bass fishing.

Tom

[Scott F]

1 minute ago, WRB said:

Trout and salmon anglers know how to wade rivers, bass anglers don't. If you want good advise on river wading go to the cold water fisherman sites. Water depth, current speed, type of bottom composition and water is covering the bottom all affect your ability to wade and not drown. Using waders you need a chest belt to prevent the waders from filling with water when you slip and fall in the water.

All River fish including bass relate to the current and current breaks, learn how to read moving water.

Tom

Me and my other river bass fishing buddies take exception to your generalization. None of us fish for trout and we all know how to wade. We've been doing it for decades. If you take lessons on fishing from trout fishermen, you'll have to re-learn a lot when you finally figure out that smallmouth bass don't behave like trout. 

[WRB]

Wading a river isn't any different for trout anglers verses the few bass anglers that wade and fish rivers. The big difference is water temperature trout vs Smallmouth bass, they both use current breaks. The generalization is there is more than one species of trout and bass. You slip and fall in a river, the outcome is the same regardless of the type of fish you targeting.

Tom

[Steveo-1969]

I wade in a river for bass whenever the water level is safe enough for it, year-round.  When the water is warm enough I wear shorts and sneakers, I only wear waders when the water is cold.  The river I fish is very popular for swimming, water-skiing, tube floating, etc. and (good or bad) I'm not worried about infections, ticks, or poison ivy.  And neither are the thousands of others who regularly soak in it.  Sorry @Scott F.

 

Oh, and I don't fish for trout...... 

 

 

[WRB]

2 hours ago, Steveo-1969 said:

I wade in a river for bass whenever the water level is safe enough for it, year-round.  When the water is warm enough I wear shorts and sneakers, I only wear waders when the water is cold.  The river I fish is very popular for swimming, water-skiing, tube floating, etc. and (good or bad) I'm not worried about infections, ticks, or poison ivy.  And neither are the thousands of others who regularly soak in it.  Sorry @Scott F.

 

Oh, and I don't fish for trout...... 

 

 

How about offering to answer the OP's question.

Tom

[Oregon Native]

Have spent a number of years wading for trout out west and for smallies in streams.  The most important item in my opinion is a pair of felt wading shoes or even corks if the rocks are bad.  Landing on slippery rocks on your butt can be jarring.  Do wear waders if water is cold...summer....not so much.  As far as wading....your in the fish's home..quiet is better unless your going through a lot of dead water...then I tend to move quickly and don't care if I'm noisy.

Have fun

[caclunker]

yeah I should have specified I don't trout fish either...just found what looked to be a good stretch of shallow river water with lots of cover

[scaleface]

Cast upstream as much as possible .  Below ripples are classic spots but above ripples are good to . Deeper ripples hold big fish . I use pretty much the same lures as lake fishing . Buzzbaits , Texas rigs , jigs , tubes , spinnerbaits , poppers .   If its visible cover I cast at it . Makes no difference if its in   fast water or slow  water - shallow or deep . In rivers I use a lot more plastic crawfish than worms .

[WRB]

4 hours ago, caclunker said:

yeah I should have specified I don't trout fish either...just found what looked to be a good stretch of shallow river water with lots of cover

The reason I suggested to look at trout anglers is far more are stream and river anglers than bass anglers. Fly fisherman that wade in current understand how difficult it can be and have developed most, if not all, the wading equipment we all use.

I grew up fishing for both bass and trout in lakes and rivers. Most bass anglers fish warm water because that is where bass live, they are a warm water species. 

Largemouth bass don't like fast current and tend to avoid it, so look for structure that breaks the current creating edies, slower moving water.

Smallmouth and Spotted bass like current, they are river bass that adapt to lakes. Smallmouth and Spots are still bass and will use current breaks similar to LMB, usually a little faster and deeper current.

If the current is slow any standard bass presentation will work. If the current is moderate than lures that have more action and fash work better. 

You mentioned you normally boat fish. If the water is too shallow to effectively target bass from a boat, unless you mean shallow bars with deeper water near on the other side near shore, than I wouldn't think there would be very many adult size bass there.

Tom

[PNW LipRipper]

Know your river temps like someone stated stocking foot waders hypothermia using light weight waders when you. Should of have neoprene never go passed your waist other than that enjoy 

[caclunker]

so comparing feet to a trolling motor what's the closest I can get to spots I'm casting into without disturbing the fish

[scaleface]

44 minutes ago, caclunker said:

so comparing feet to a trolling motor what's the closest I can get to spots I'm casting into without disturbing the fish

 You can get pretty close .  Depends on how skittish the bass is . I have waded up to trees and dropped the bait straight down and caught fish .  

[bowhunter63]

I wad alot for Smallies,Go slow and try to make long casts.In the River little things make a big difference.What the water looks like on top is what the bottom structure is.Current breaks and Eddies are always good.They are always looking for a easy meal.

[TOXIC]

For a number of years, I waded for smallmouth in the North Fork of the Shenandoah river almost every weekend year round.  I would suggest a pair of stocking foot neoprene waders in the appropriate thickness for your water temps.  I had different thicknesses for fall and for winter.  You need a pair of felt wading boots.  Footing is important and felt boots are a must have.  Sliced ankles and a bruised tailbone is no fun.  I had a pair of neoprene water socks for summer when I wore the boots without my waders.  You need a pair of wraps for the top of your boots.  They keep the gravel out of them and keep your boots tied.  Know how to read your water!!  Don't venture out into fast water until you get accustomed to the ins and outs of wading (small steps low to the bottom, recognizing deeper pools and staying sideways in the current...etc) getting swept is no fun but properly fitted neoprene waders will not fill up and are buoyant so they help you float.  I fished no matter the conditions and got swept a few times.  If this happens just keep your cool and scissor kick towards shore or wait until you drift up onto shallower river bottom and can get your footing again.  It was more of an issue if I was breaking ice or there was ice flowing down the river.  As far as casting and baits, I used moving baits because anything that goes to the bottom in current and rocks is going to hang up a lot!!  I didn't want to spend half my time retying!!  I would cast straight across the current and let the lure/bait drift downstream as I reeled it in.  If you cast straight upstream, you are going to get hung a lot.  

 

With all that being said....If you are going out in the dead of summer in a "friendly" river, throw on some tennis shoes and go for it!!  

[jimf]

Experienced wader here, anywhere from small spring creeks you could jump across to large rivers for smallmouth.   Good advice by toxic.   I would add:

 

- Shuffle, don't walk.   By shuffling your feet instead of picking them up and walking you reduce risk of tripping.  

- If you get caught in some faster current and there is a risk of being swept away, pick a spot on shore at a 45 or more degree angle and make progress in a diagonol by slowly shuffling one foot at a time.   Start with the lead foot and make a small step and then drag the back foot.   Reduce your profile by turning sideways to the current.  Don't panic, if you get swept away let the current take you and don't fight against it.

- Fishing related technique, kind of a parlor trick.   Fish that live in current (trout, smallmouth) will naturally use objects that break the current as structure.   As a wader, you just became one of those pieces of structure!   It doesn't work as well in crystal clear water, but I often will stand in one place for a few minutes and fish straight downstream.    I often catch fish within a few feet of where I am standing.   

 

I never use a wading staff but I don't disagree that it's a good safety measure.   I also use the least amount of wader material as possible - if you can get away with it hip waders for example.   I generally use those in small spring creeks when trout fishing. 

 

Wading boots ... don't automatically go with felted bottoms.   Those things get slicker than snot if the bottom has rocks with algae, or if you have to climb out of a steep muddy bank.   My go-to wading boot is a Simms G3 Guide boot.   It's a treaded soul that gives traction in those conditions.

 

As far as rock guards,  I recommend a good pair of waders that just have a clip to attach to your boot which does the trick.   I've owned Patagonia and Simms waders

 

Go light.  I lanyard is ideal for carrying a few lures and important tools.  

 

Wading is fun.   I'm 54 now and my back can't quite deal with 6-8 hours on the water like that, so I tend to fish more out of a boat.   But I'll still go out and wade, and I love to do so in the fall when the leaves are turning.   Being in the river is just relaxing, a more connected feeling.

 

 

 

 

[Steveo-1969]

Lots and lots of great advice above. One thing that hasn't been mentioned yet but I feel can save a wasted trip is finding out if there is a river level/temperature gauge online you can check for your river or stream. I check my river on a National Weather Service website almost daily. It tells me the current level, gives me a forecast for the next couple days and shows the water temperature.

 

I know from experience how low my river needs to be for me to safely wade and if the level is above that I bank fish instead. Also the temp tells me how to dress for wading to stay warm or cool.

 

Also if the water is dirty enough that I can't see bottom I will only wade places that I'm familiar with. That way I'm not stepping into a deep hole or off a ledge.

[Turkey sandwich]

There are some really good posts above.  I've been wading rivers since I was 11 or 12, and I've learned a lot over the years.  It can be a great way to fish without having to worry about a boat when the water is shallow.  However...

 

my $.02

 

Prep - know the water gauges, the water temp, and the weather before anything else.  If the water is high and especially high and muddy, get in a boat, or stick to flooded areas you know.  Surprises on the water suck, and can prove dangerous, especially if the water is cold.

 

Gear - ranges a lot depending upon the stuff I mentioned above.  In the summer, and if it's a warm water fishery, I'll likely just wear light UV pants and shirt and a pair of Keen wading shoes.  If you don't burn as easily as I do, a pair of board shorts and fast drying T-shirt can work just as well.  Once the water gets colder, breathable stocking foot waders are a must.  I can't stand neoprene because it'll make me sweat inside the waders and thus spend the day miserable. Breathable waders cost more, but they're worth it.  Mine are Orvis, but virtually any company that makes quality fly fishing gear makes a great set of waders from $150 - as much as you want to spend.  Also, waders aren't going to keep you warm on their own, so layers of breathable base layers and 1-2 pair of wool socks can make a big difference.  This is important to remember when buying waders since you're going to need the room in the feet for bulky socks.  I have a pair of Cabelas wading boots that have removable lugs/studs and a felt bottom.  I like felt, but @jimf is spot on about being careful around slick grass, muddy banks, etc.  Know the conditions and know the water. Lugs can help, but they can also rip up a boat or your car if you aren't very careful. Remember, being comfortable is super important because if you're too hot/cold, you aren't going to be able to focus on fishing.  (I dressed too light over the weekend for a trip to the upper Delaware with air temps in the 50s-60s and water around 50 degrees.  I was not casting tight loops for most of the day and was all over the place because I wasn't comfortable. ) Dry clothes and a towel are good to keep in the car in case things go bad.  As for storage, I have a Simms sling pack that works great, but made due with a backpack for years. A lanyard for pliers, nail clippers and a spool of leader material is a good idea, as is a magnetic release for a net.

 

Learn to read water - this will help you find fish if they aren't rising, but more importantly, it's going to keep you safe.  I strongly suggest learning this on days with clear water so it's easier to see what's around you.  Pay attention to what you see nearby on shore, but also realize that changes in current usually indicate a change in the bottom, be it depth, structure/cover, etc.  

 

Walking in current - staying sideways/pointing a shoulder upstream creates less resistance and will make moving less clumsy.  It will make moving in fast current 100x easier. I also don't use a wading staff, but they aren't a terrible idea if they make you feel more comfortable. 

[jimf]

 

I like the magnetic release net's @Turkey sandwichmentioned.   The only problem with those is if you are out of the water and bushwacking through some thick vegetation and timber that elastic cord can get hung up without you really knowing it until it let's go and whomps you on the back of the head.    

 

I would never ever consider neoprene waders.   Do they still sell those?   Breathables with proper layering underneath is the way to go.  

 

I use usgs.gov for all of my river level needs, I was not aware that info was available on other weather sites.   The interface is clumsy but the information is there.  

 

If you fish really small, clear water streams and creeks, it's probably advisable to fish from shore and use your waders (or hippers) to get to the other side when needed.   When I am trout fishing small spring creeks I'm never fishing in the water unless I need a casting lane.   I fish some smaller water for smallmouth as well and take that same approach.   

 

 

 

 

 

 

[RPreeb]

Never waded for bass, but I waded a lot of creeks and rivers for trout.  Just a couple of things to add.  I always had the best fishing when wading upstream.  I've done both, and both are feasible, but when moving in a river you will dislodge stuff that then flows with the current.  This tells fish downstream that something is going on above them.  Sometimes it can actually be a help if you are sending tasty morsels down on the current, sort of like chumming, but it also warns them of a disturbance.

 

Watch current and depth.  In a fast current, knee deep water can sweep you off your feet, or at least make it hard to maintain your balance.  Go slow and keep to the shallowest water possible if there is very much current.

 

I never owned waders - always waded in sneakers, even in icy Montana streams.  My brother and I waded the North Fork of the Flathead River on the west boundary of Glacier Park, cold and fast and we were probably taking far more risk than we should have.  It makes your feet ache until they get numb, then we were always good until we left the water and started to warm back up again.  Never got hypothermic, but we mostly did that kind of fishing in good weather, so it wasn't a huge threat.  The best thing about not using waders is that you never have to worry about falling and having them fill up with water, dragging you right to the bottom.

 

On the Swan River in Montana, I fought and played a big tail-dancing rainbow for 100 yards or more downstream in fast water (on a flyrod with a 2X tapered leader) before I could land him, and that got a bit dicey.  I bobbed through a 6' deep hole where I just bouncing off the bottom with my tiptoes after an overhanging tree forced me off the bank.  That was one of the most exciting moments I've had when fishing, finally dragging that 4½ pound trout onto a rock bar.  

[Turkey sandwich]

6 hours ago, RPreeb said:

 

On the Swan River in Montana, I fought and played a big tail-dancing rainbow for 100 yards or more downstream in fast water (on a flyrod with a 2X tapered leader) before I could land him, and that got a bit dicey.  I bobbed through a 6' deep hole where I just bouncing off the bottom with my tiptoes after an overhanging tree forced me off the bank.  That was one of the most exciting moments I've had when fishing, finally dragging that 4½ pound trout onto a rock bar.  

 

 

Thankfully you were rocking 2X tippet! if that were a dry fly on 6x, I would imagine myself floating screaming "oh ****! oh ****! oh ****!" the entire way to that rock bar.  That is one seriously memorable fish!  Also, you are braver than I am wet wading in cold water without waders.

[TOXIC]

15 hours ago, jimf said:

 

 

I would never ever consider neoprene waders.   Do they still sell those?   Breathables with proper layering underneath is the way to go.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

https://www.amazon.com/Caddis-Green-Neoprene-Stocking-Wader/dp/B005GSYB0G  Sure they do.  And in different thicknesses.  

 

I never would consider anything else for the water I waded.  You have -0- buoyancy with the breathable style waders.  You get swept and have on wading boots (of any style) and you will struggle to stay afloat.  I've had to rescue a friend who was in hip style breathable waders from going under.  Granted he panicked but those filled up with water and he was in trouble.  I will admit, my wading was in a fast river with deep holes and ledges and in fall/winter.  In the summer I was in shorts and my wading boots.  Never a net and had a chest wading vest to hold the few lures I needed.  I could always restock if need be.  While breathables are light and can be layered, I wouldn't trade my neoprene due to the flotation and safety.  Keeping in mind I was regularly in water up to my hips and chest.  

[fishwizzard]

I wade a fair bit for smallies, but almost never in rivers with holes much deeper than 4-5'.  My general "rule" is to try and never go deeper than mid-calf, so if I do miss judge depth I am only going in up to my waist.  I do some wading in the Upper Potomac river and I am far more cautious there.  I the spring/summer I just wear shorts and water shoes.   I do wear neoprene socks as they are tight enough that I have never had an issue with sand/grit making it's way in.  The sand/grit that does get in between the sock and shoe will destroy the socks over a season, but I just keep a few brands bookmarked on amazon and buy them when the go on sale.  

 

In the fall/winter I wear breathable waders with a loose-ish belt at my waist (to stick my rod in when I am tying on a lure or unhooking a fish) and a very tight belt run through the chest pocket as high up as I can.  I bought a neoprene hoody from Stormar which has gaskets at the wrists, waist, and neck to wear over the waders, but it is so heavy and warm I have yet to encounter weather cold enough to make wearing it bearable and still have unfrozen water.  

 

I also own a full semi-dry suit I use for cold weather kayaking.  It has neoprene rather then rubber gaskets thus the semi.  It is maybe the most uncomfortable thing I have ever paid money for and I hate wearing it, but it with a PFD makes me feel pretty safe on the water in extreme cold.