Casting rod for spinnerbaits, chatterbaits and crankbaits

[Boomstick]

Currently I have a Daiwa Tatula 6'10" MH/F rod paired with a 6.3:1 Tatula SV reel, a Mitchell 300 Pro spinning combo and a Pflueger President spinning combo, I'll usually rig one for myself and the boys can use the other). While fishing on a rowboat this past week, it hit me that it would be nice to have a second rod so I could throw a frog on mine, and a spinnerbait on the other, or perhaps in a different lake a swim jig and a crankbait or a texas rigged senko and a chatterbait, etc. The MH is more than adequate as the lakes I fish don't have any excessive amount of weeds.

 

My first through was I could get a Lews Mach II combo, toss some braid on it and toss some 17lb mono on the tatula (since the Lews has the 7.5:1 gear ratio), but seeing as what I am really missing from my setup is a cranking rod, I was debating picking up a Tatula Glass Cranking rod and another Tatula SV reel. If I go this way, should I get the 7.3:1 reel and put my current 6.3:1 on the cranking rod or just another 6.3:1? And how does a glass cranking rod handle a 3/8 or 1/2 oz spinnerbait or chatterbait? If that works well, then I think this is the way I'm going.

[J Francho]

I would not combine those baits.  Spinnerbaits and chatterbaits have a large, barbed hook.  You want at least a fast or extra fast taper to quickly drive that big hook home.  The good thing about this type of rod, it can usually also be used for topwater, buzzbaits, and rip/jerk baits.  Crankbaits tend to fish better on a slower, moderately tapered rod.  That slower action aides in the deflection of cover and the bottom elements - the key piece to getting bit on a crankbait.  I personally prefer graphite for cranking, as it is light and transits information about what you're bumping into better than glass.  Glass does a have a very special recovery from deflection, and for this reason, many prefer it.

[Boomstick]

15 minutes ago, J Francho said:

I would not combine those baits.  Spinnerbaits and chatterbaits have a large, barbed hook.  You want at least a fast or extra fast taper to quickly drive that big hook home.  The good thing about this type of rod, it can usually also be used for topwater, buzzbaits, and rip/jerk baits.  Crankbaits tend to fish better on a slower, moderately tapered rod.  That slower action aides in the deflection of cover and the bottom elements - the key piece to getting bit on a crankbait.  I personally prefer graphite for cranking, as it is light and transits information about what you're bumping into better than glass.  Glass does a have a very special recovery from deflection, and for this reason, many prefer it.

 

That is what I thought too about the hook set -- the hook practically sets itself on my braid on my MH rod!. But a few people have mentioned they do use their glass rod for spinnerbaits too, if it worked decently then I could kill two birds in one stone nicely here. I'm currently using my M/F spinning rod with 12lb line for crankbaits but I want to throw braid on that too to remove line twist.

Dobyns advertises the Champion glass rod as cranks and spinnerbaits even.

[J Francho]

Braid does not remove the twist, it's just that braid doesn't reveal the twist like single filament lines.  Instead of loops on the spool, you end up with something called "wind knots" with braid.  The fix for either is to troll out the line, with no bait on it for a few hundred yards, and then reel in using pressure on the line between your fingers.

[Boomstick]

Well you are right but you know what I mean -- I never have problems on braid with line and while I occasionally experience line twist issues, I very rarely get wind knots.

[J Francho]

It's fairly uncommon, but not unusual.  Just know what's up, if it happens.  Took me a couple frustrating outings many years ago to figure out what was happening.  The fix was simple, thankfully.

[bugbee77]

They aren't sensitive or particularly light, but I love throwing those type of baits on my *** *** black 2s. They have a really long transition point from tip to backbone that make them great for spinner and chatterbaits. Also, they guides on them are solid and haven't bent despite my rough treatment. I have a 7'1M and 7'3MH and both work just fine.

[J Francho]

3 minutes ago, bugbee77 said:

They have a really long transition point from tip to backbone that make them great for spinner and chatterbaits.

 

I'm curious as what about this property that makes them great for those two baits?

[bugbee77]

24 minutes ago, J Francho said:

 

I'm curious as what about this property that makes them great for those two baits?

Well on most cheaper rods when you have something on them you can see a point on the rod that is flexing more than the rest of the rod. this is the transition point between the tip and backbone. A rod that has a long transition point loads up really well when fishing resistance baits and once you get a bite its easy to use the backbone for a sweeping hookset. 

 

Edit: It is somewhat like a moderate action on the rod but with more backbone to it. Anyways, those *** Black 2s are great for resistance baits

[Scarborough817]

i use a glass rod for both my bladed jigs and spinnerbaits and absolutely love it i caught 4 fish on spinnerbaits this weekend and had no problem with the hook penetrating. i feel with an open hook they should be thrown on a more moderate rod so you don't rip a huge hole in the fishes mouth. it also helps with feeling the vibration of the bait a lot more.

spinnerbaits and squarebills are on a 7'0" mh/m daiwa ballistic 

bladed jigs and lipless cranks are on a 7'3" m/m abu garcia ike

 

[Boomstick]

Just now, Scarborough817 said:

i use a glass rod for both my bladed jigs and spinnerbaits 

spinnerbaits and squarebills are on a 7'0" mh/m daiwa ballistic 

bladed jigs and lipless cranks are on a 7'3" m/m abu garcia ike

 

 

While I figure I'd use my  current rod for bladed jigs 99% the time, if a glass rod could handle them decently that would be a nice plus as well, say I wanted to rig up a bladed jig and a frog or the like.

[Scarborough817]

8 minutes ago, Boomstick said:

 

While I figure I'd use my  current rod for bladed jigs 99% the time, if a glass rod could handle them decently that would be a nice plus as well, say I wanted to rig up a bladed jig and a frog or the like.

i would be looking at something more moderate for cranks a fast action rod generally isn't the best. something in the 7'-7'3" range is good then you can test both of your rods for whatever baits you want.

[Boomstick]

29 minutes ago, Scarborough817 said:

i would be looking at something more moderate for cranks a fast action rod generally isn't the best. something in the 7'-7'3" range is good then you can test both of your rods for whatever baits you want.

 

I think you missed it but I said bladed jigs not cranks. I guess I did put that in my requirements although I throw a spinnerbait far more often, so I'm really hoping I can use the glass rod for spinnerbaits. If it doesn't work for chatterbaits, that's an acceptable loss to me.

 

I am pretty sure I can fit 7'2" (based on having 2" to spare on a 7' rod) but I won't be able to fit anything much longer in my car without sticking it out the window, which is not a good idea.

[Scarborough817]

1 minute ago, Boomstick said:

 

I think you missed it but I said bladed jigs not cranks. I guess I did put that in my requirements although I throw a spinnerbait far more often, so I'm really hoping I can use the glass rod for spinnerbaits. If it doesn't work for chatterbaits, that's an acceptable loss to me.

i did i just forgot that in my reply. you will get multiple opinions on this so they only way to know is to try for yourself, i know that probably isn't the answer you're looking for but from my personal experience i have found no issues fishing a spinnerbait or a bladed jig on a glass rod it's actually quite the opposite i have had a better hookup ratio because of it. an added bonus is a moderate action glass rod should have no issue handling crankbaits either. 

 

i think most people fish blade jigs like a jig which i can't blame them for. In saying that myself as well as a few others like  @Bluebasser86 fish bladed jigs like a squarebill more than a jig, now i'm not sure if he agrees with my thinking of a moderate action glass rod maybe he can speak to that himself.

 

[Boomstick]

Just now, Scarborough817 said:

i did i just forgot that in my reply. you will get multiple opinions on this so they only way to know is to try for yourself, i know that probably isn't the answer you're looking for but from my personal experience i have found no issues fishing a spinnerbait or a bladed jig on a glass rod it's actually quite the opposite i have had a better hookup ratio because of it. an added bonus is a moderate action glass rod should have no issue handling crankbaits either.

 

This is probably the best answer I could have hoped to look for to be honest. My challenge seems to be getting the fish to bite in the first place but once they bite I rarely lose them. Same goes when I had mono on my reel. I caught the largest bass (20" smallie) of my life on a spinnerbait on Friday and it bit it so fast on the first cast of the day I didn't even get a good hookset but I still got him. I did get a few very weak bites this past week when camping too, but I don't think any gear could have landed those to be honest, or even a second trailer hook.

 

I very well might give it a go. I just need to decide if I want another 6.3:1 reel or a 7.3:1 reel (and use my 6.3 with the glass rod of course)

[Scarborough817]

Just now, Boomstick said:

 

This is probably the best answer I could have hoped to look for to be honest. My challenge seems to be getting the fish to bite in the first place but once they bite I rarely lose them. Same goes when I had mono on my reel. I caught the largest bass (20" smallie) of my life on a spinnerbait on Friday and it bit it so fast on the first cast of the day I didn't even get a good hookset but I still got him. I did get a few very weak bites this past week when camping too, but I don't think any gear could have landed those to be honest, or even a second trailer hook.

 

I very well might give it a go. I just need to decide if I want another 6.3:1 reel or a 7.3:1 reel (and use my 6.3 with the glass rod of course)

i would go with a 7.3:1 and spool it with braid for the fog rod 

[Boomstick]

1 minute ago, Scarborough817 said:

i would go with a 7.3:1 and spool it with braid for the fog rod 

 

I'm thinking the same. I'll fish a lot of swim and pitching jigs and frogs on that. Of course I may still throw spinnerbaits or chatterbaits on that rod as well from time to time too, and I can burn em that way.

[RichF]

I'm a big fan of glass for spinnerbaits and bladed jigs. However, I wouldn't necessarily throw cranks on the same glass rod I'd throw bladed jigs on.  A medium heavy glass rod would be decent for both though.  

[J Francho]

1 hour ago, bugbee77 said:

Well on most cheaper rods when you have something on them you can see a point on the rod that is flexing more than the rest of the rod.

 

It doesn't sound like you understand tapers and speed ratings.  We have several articles and videos that explain this aspect. Here is a image for reference.  An X-fast taper doesn't mean a rod is cheaper.  It's a different taper for different purposes.   I have no idea how a slower action rod would benefit driving a large, single fixed hook home.  You feel the strike, you set the hook.  Anything that delays that results in a missed fish, in my book.  Sure, throwing any bait might be nicer on a slower rod, but that slowness isn't going to improve on the hook up and catching part, which matters most.

 

 

[roadwarrior]

 

[Boomstick]

17 minutes ago, roadwarrior said:

 

 

I was initially considering adding a simple M/M or M/MF rod until this past week actually. Kind of leaning towards glass now.

[Turkey sandwich]

I have a MH MF Aetos that is a phenomenal spinnerbait/bladed jig rod.  It's also way faster than most MF rated rods.  I also wouldn't throw crankbaits on it in most conditions for the same reasons @J Francho mentioned.  

[LxVE Bassin]

I have thrown my chatterbaits on a medium heavy graphite rod with a moderate fast taper. I just ordered a glass rod to replace it. I like a more moderate taper with chatterbaits. I don't see the need for an aggressive hooks set and the sweeping action works just fine for me. 

[Jason Penn]

this thread has hit on a subject that has been kind of interesting to me.  i was always a firm believer in mod action for spinnerbaits, although everyone seemed to think (4-5 years ago) you need a fast or ex-fast action. i seemed to have way less trouble losing fish than with fast action rods.  the hook seems to pierce instead of rip.

 

i've never caught a fish on a chatterbait (all wood, no grass in my area) but seems like most people think a glass rod is the way to go for these. to me, they seem to be fished basically moving like a spinnerbait...maybe i've fished them wrong?

 

now with that being said, i've switched over to a med power/fast action for spinnerbaits vs a mh/mod.  i seem to get a tad bit slower reaction and a good deep bend on hooksets, but the rod is more suited for using with topwaters as well.

[Bluebasser86]

I fish bladed jigs a ton, and I throw them on a 6' 9" H/F with 17lb Pline Xtra Strong and a 6.2 reel. I don't buy into the need for a slower rod so you don't take the bait away from the fish. If a fish wants to eat it, they'll eat it. I have tons of pictures of baits down a fish's throat fishing them on MH/F and H/F rods. I tried the composite and glass rods to see if I was missing something, only thing I missed was a ton of fish when I changed. The rod I'm using now is by Hammer Rods. Although it's a H/F, it has a very parabolic bend and has been an excellent rod for the job.

 

My cranking rods are glass or composite.