1995 130 hp Johnson maintenance

[GeeseMelvin]

So it's been a long while since I've last ran my boat, and unfortunately it's not garage kept. I'm wondering if there are any tips to consider once I discover that my outboard won't start, because I'm fairly sure that it won't.  I'll update the steps I take and the progress of the possible nightmare mechanical DIY. 

[Fishing Rhino]

First thing to do regarding starting the motor.  Drain all the old gas out of the entire fuel system, and replace it with fresh fuel.

 

The water pump impeller should be replaced, and the housing checked.

 

Lower unit should be drained, and filled with new gear oil.

 

The electrical system should be checked.  Battery should be tested.  All wiring connections should be checked for corrosion.

 

Was the motor stored properly including fogging the engine?  If not, you may have rust in the cylinders.  At the very least, you should pull the plugs and put some oil in them, then turn the motor by hand.  I'd consider getting someone to scope the cylinders to determine their condition.

 

That's just for starters.

 

 

 

[Way2slow]

Fishing Rhino is right on.  If the motor has been sitting for a year or more,  my first step would be to check and purge/clean fuel system.  Check all hoses for cracks, dry brittle conditions and replace if necessary. 

Remove the carbs and clean them.  A gummy, dirty carb can lean the engine and melt a piston.

Check all mechanical linkages to make sure they are moving freely.  At the top of the engine you will see a rod that goes from the top of the throttle linkage to back under the flywheel.  This is the mechanical timing and connects to the timer base.  If a motor has sat for a long period, it's common for the grease to dry around the timer base and make it hard to move and sticks.  Make sure it moves fairly freely. On top of the engine there is a cam for the throttle linkage.  There is a roller that runs on that cam.  It should be about 3/8" in diameter and have a clear looking sleeve on a black piece.  If it's only about 1/4" diameter and black, the sleeve is gone and you need to replace that roller.  This is a very common problem for them to crack off.  it's held on by a small oring on top of the pin.

The water pump impeller will have developed at set and gotten pretty hard so it will need to be replaced, something that should be done every few years but people seem to rarely replace them until they fry their motor. 

The water pump and changing the LU lube (I check it but don't change it until satisfied with rest of motor) is usually my last step because I want to get the motor running and checked out everywhere else before spending the money and work on the pump.  It's kind of wasted if the motor checks out bad from leak down/compression test which the motor should be run about several minutes to warm up before doing.

If the VRO is still connected and has never been replaced, you may want to consider disconnection it and premix your gas.  The first gas I put back in to test run it would be premixed 50:1 just as a precaution.  It's a lot better to make a little extra smoke than ruin and engine if it happens to not be working and you want to leave it connected.

[GeeseMelvin]

Thanks for the indepth responses, you guys know your stuff. I'm gonna have to study my motor and learn more about all the parts y'all mentioned.

[GeeseMelvin]

Unless y'all are willing to come get your hands dirty and start this thang for some brews and a day on the water hah 

[Way2slow]

I left Langley AFB in VA, in 1990.  I made dam sure I didn't leave anything there that would give me a reason or need to go back there again.

 

You haul that sucker to Jeffersonville GA, and I will be glad to get it running for you, but I'm not hauling my butt to VA.  Matter of fact, I happen to have that whole motor in spare parts.  I've got one I bought years ago that needs a block and crank and never did find either at a price I was willing to pay. 

[GeeseMelvin]

3 hours ago, Way2slow said:

I left Langley AFB in VA, in 1990.  I made dam sure I didn't leave anything there that would give me a reason or need to go back there again.

 

You haul that sucker to Jeffersonville GA, and I will be glad to get it running for you, but I'm not hauling my butt to VA.  Matter of fact, I happen to have that whole motor in spare parts.  I've got one I bought years ago that needs a block and crank and never did find either at a price I was willing to pay. 

Yeah I hear ya. Well if I happen to need any spares I may reach out to you. Or any help along the journey, seems like you're pretty knowledgeable with this motor. 

[WIGuide]

3 minutes ago, GeeseMelvin said:

Yeah I hear ya. Well if I happen to need any spares I may reach out to you. Or any help along the journey, seems like you're pretty knowledgeable with this motor. 

When you hang around on this board, you'll soon find out that way2slow is way more than just pretty knowledgeable on any 2 stroke motor. haha

[Hez]

8 minutes ago, WIGuide said:

When you hang around on this board, you'll soon find out that way2slow is way more than just pretty knowledgeable on any 2 stroke motor. haha

 

Wish I could like this more than once lol 

[GeeseMelvin]

1 hour ago, WIGuide said:

When you hang around on this board, you'll soon find out that way2slow is way more than just pretty knowledgeable on any 2 stroke motor. haha

 

Oh I can tell. I'm in good hands with getting this motor back up and running. 

[Way2slow]

Well, when I first started working on two strokes, they were still running 30W ND motor oil in the gas.  There was no such thing as two stroke oil.  I modified my first one in the early 60's, a couple McCullough  go cart engines on my racing go cart.