ckent Posted February 11, 2007 Posted February 11, 2007 I am in need of help from all you pros out there. I have a 14ft. jon boat and will be adding a deck and bow mount trolling motor. I saw some of the photos on creating a deck using wood and was approaching that route. Obviously I would use 1/2 plywood for the deck, but I am running into a snag on trying to figure out how to build the wood frame underneath. The deck would span from the middle seat to the little front platform. my other issue consists of the trolling motor. It will be a bow mount with foot control. 40lb thrust 12volt 36" shaft. My issues are this, how would I create a correct mounting base for this that would be high enough. The other problem is wiring. I keep getting conflicting info from people etc. I have one deep cycle battery a 27 series. It is located at the very back of the boat. what is the proper way to wire this in. On my last motor I just used 10awg with an inline fuse. I am being told I should run 8awg and a circuit breaker rated at 50amps. The only other thing that would be tied to this battery is the depth finder. It is a small Cuda168 model. With my old motor I ran those cables down one side and the depth finder down the other. They both met at the battery. I never had any issues but some people are telling me that I will have interference problems and that a second battery is needed. If I use a circuit breaker for the trolling motor is an inline fuse still necessary? For the circuit breaker is there one type better than the other? I was looking at the type that had the tab that dropped on the pos. battery stud. Then the issue came into play on how the battery cover would fit over this. The final question is the proper connection for the trolling motor. Is just the standard trolling motor recepticle fine? I know this is alot of rambling but I want to do this right the first time. Any help or directions you may point would be extremely appreciated! Quote
Super User Grey Wolf Posted February 11, 2007 Super User Posted February 11, 2007 WELCOME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Research this section and you will find a lot of info on turning a jon into a bass boat. Quote
samurai361 Posted February 14, 2007 Posted February 14, 2007 I think there is a lot of good and bad information out there. I did a complete conversion on my boat a little over a year ago. It cost me big, but I did a lot that I didn't have to because it was a project. I painted the hull, used aluminum trusses, all stainless fasteners, and added lights, none of which was necessary. You can check out some of what I've done on my rig here: http://www.myjonboat.com/armentrout.htm email me or post here if you want to know more. Also, you don't need 2 batteries. I only use 1 battery, a small group 24, and I fish all day (12 hours or more) and run T/M, livewell pump and recirc, lights, and FF. No issues, EVER. However, use proper size wiring. Incorrect wire size for the application will result in a heavier amp draw, and you may be in a jam. Quote
ckent Posted February 15, 2007 Author Posted February 15, 2007 Thanks for your reply samurai. Your conversion looks great! I dont plan on going really overboard on mine. Just looking at a deck with carpet, bow mounted trolling motor, and a pedestal seat. I don't fish any tournaments and never keep any fish so I do not need a livewell. The only other thing I may put in is some compartments in the deck. Theres alot of useful space under that deck. The motor is a 40lb thrust so I had planned on using 8 gauge wire with a 50amp manual reset circuit breaker. It will be about a 14ft run from the battery to the motor. According to minnkota website 8 gauge is sufficient. As for the deck I was going to use 2x4's with 5/8" plywood, all of which I was going to treat with Thompsons water seal. I have figured out how I am going to build the deck, but I keep running into snags on how to make a mount for the trolling motor. This is my first bow mount motor, I have had transoms before. Are bow mounts fastened to the deck by bolts our screws? Thanks again for the input! Quote
fishbear Posted February 15, 2007 Posted February 15, 2007 ckent, if you give me a day or two,,I will be posting my pics of my 14 ft. jon, I just finished decking, and the support frame work.. I used minimal wood, going with aluminum instead for the structure. I am right at 300 lbs, and I can dance on it, no problems. Quote
samurai361 Posted February 15, 2007 Posted February 15, 2007 First, I wouldn't use 2x4's to support the deck. You can get a couple of pieces of aluminum angle for less than 100 bucks, and have plenty even to account for mistakes. If you use 5/8" ply (I did) you can span a decent amount. Second, bow mount T/Ms are no mystery and you can mount them with either screws OR bolts, depending on the amount of access you have to the flat area you mount the motor base on. I just prefer a hand control, so I used my old transom mount and had my brother in law weld me a bracket. You can set it up to suit YOU. Quote
samurai361 Posted February 15, 2007 Posted February 15, 2007 BTW, my boat CAME with a livewell, I just put in the pump in plumbing and recirc pump. I do occasionally do tournaments with some guys, but not often. I put fish in there sometimes until I know if I'll have enough to take home. You should really consider a storage area under the deck. You can put PFDs, and anchor or two, line, a tool box, dry box, spare prop, and tackle under it. Quote
ckent Posted February 15, 2007 Author Posted February 15, 2007 I would prefer to use aluminum framing but have no experience whatsoever with metal working. I dont have a rivet gun, or any tool to cut it. I was gonna go with 2x4's because I can get all the wood for free. The other issue I may have is the cross supports for my boat are rounded not squared off like alot I see out there. Thanks again. Quote
samurai361 Posted February 16, 2007 Posted February 16, 2007 Aluminum is very soft. I have a miter saw, and used a metal cutting blade for a chop saw. It makes your saw a mess, but it can be cleaned. You won't have that many cuts to make, but you can also cut with a metal cutting blade for an angle grinder, or a reciprocating saw, or if you feel frisky, a hack saw. I think if I had it to do over, I'd get a reciprocating saw because I can use it for so many other things. Oh yeah, remember to use gloves no matter how you cut it. The edges on it WILL be sharp. Keep a file handy. Quote
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