ideas for 1/16 oz swimjig

[Bdnoble84]

Not really a nessesity with hair/fur but i'm wondering on options for 1/16 or 3/32 swimjig style head (not looking for custom at this time). Ive tryed hair on 1/8 oz jigs and it is just heavier than i want in some of my applications. I have tyed on ball head jigs as well as my walleye head mold and its fine, but i really like my poisontail jig mold. Thinking something that takes an fg9 or fg12 weedguard would be interesting. Any thoughts.

[smalljaw67]

I've made small 1/16oz bucktail swim jigs the walleye head. It works well but no weed guard but it wouldn't be hard to modify to add an FG-9 if you'd want one.

[Bdnoble84]

Thanks smalljaw. Ive given it consideration to modify that mold. i think what i am looking for and what prompted me to think about this is the desire for a 30deg hook eye as much as a weedguard, and the fact that i tied a really bulky marabou jig with tail feathers on it, yet it felt heavier than i liked in the water (drop rate). Made me think how nice it would be to have the same head design in 1/16 or 3/32. 

-As a side note, your youtube videos on jig tying have been absolutely awesome. My tying ability has improved drastically ever since i discovered those videos. Really appreciate the time you have put into these videos and the consise manner in which you explain the steps.

[Deleted account]

when I want my swim jigs to be lighter, I shave the sides of the head with a pocket knife. You could do this before painting the heads.

[smalljaw67]

17 hours ago, Bdnoble84 said:

Thanks smalljaw. Ive given it consideration to modify that mold. i think what i am looking for and what prompted me to think about this is the desire for a 30deg hook eye as much as a weedguard, and the fact that i tied a really bulky marabou jig with tail feathers on it, yet it felt heavier than i liked in the water (drop rate). Made me think how nice it would be to have the same head design in 1/16 or 3/32. 

-As a side note, your youtube videos on jig tying have been absolutely awesome. My tying ability has improved drastically ever since i discovered those videos. Really appreciate the time you have put into these videos and the consise manner in which you explain the steps.

 

I appreciate the kind words on my videos, I'm glad you got some help from them. As for your line of thinking, the 30 degree hook is going to be tough, I think the only one in a size that will work is the Mustad 91768 and I've only saw 1 place that carries them in smaller than a 1/0 and that is Captain Hooks. To be honest I'm not even sure if they are still available but they are listed in a size 4 and a size 2 and with the length of the shank on that hook I believe the 2 will work but the 4 is probably the better bet. That said, you'll need a custom mold, there is nothing that small that uses a 30 degree but I also believe that at that head weight you don't need the 30 degree as there isn't enough weight to have the jig running off of level anyway. The reason of a 30 degree hook on a swim jig is to pull the head at the front, that puts all the weight behind the line tie so the jig follows straight and true, when you use a 90 or even a 60 depending on the type of head, the angle of the line is higher and it can cause problems when fishing certain types of cover and it can also cause the jig to not run straight but at an angle but it isn't enough to really worry about, especially at such a small weight.

[Munkin]

Pour the 1/8oz Poisontail head with Tin instead of lead.

 

Allen

[Bdnoble84]

On 6/29/2017 at 0:00 PM, Munkin said:

Pour the 1/8oz Poisontail head with Tin instead of lead.

 

Allen

I dont have any experience pouring tin. How does one go about obtaining it and what are some watchouts with it. Definitely an interesting concept. Kind of the opposite of the reasoning for tungsten. Create a bulkier profile while not adding weight. Ill have to look at a mass comparison chart online.

[Munkin]

Rotometals is where you can get some but I assume you want a small quantity to try first. Not sure where you can get pure Tin but solder is easily available and close to the weight.

 

Densities in grams per cubic centimeter:

 

Lead = 11.34

Tin = 7.29

Solder = 8.4

 

Allen

[smalljaw67]

If you are going to pour tin buy some Frankfurt Arsenal Dropout. The dropout is a graphite spay lubricant you spray in the mold cavities to make releasing the casting super easy. The reason you'll need that is unlike lead that shrinks a bit the tin doesn't, in fact I think it may even expand a little. The first time I used tin I had to take a torch to melt my casting out of the mold, it wouldn't budge. Also keep in mind powder paint isn't going to work, tin has a low melting point so you'll need regular or vinyl paint.

[Will Wetline]

smalljaw67, you have been a tremendous help to me in my jig making experiences but I think in this one instance you have mixed up your metals. Re your above response, do I remember correctly that you were casting Rotometals 281 alloy (58%bismuth/42%tin) and had to melt the casting out of the mold? If so, the problem was with the bismuth, not the tin. I plucked this factoid from a long, scientific, Wikipedia entry on bismuth: "Bismuth expands 3.32% on solidification."

 

 Back on topic, I like Munkin's suggestion to pour tin.

 

 https://www.rotometals.com/tin-ingot-99-9-pure/

 

I have cast and powder painted 1/8 oz. Poison Tail jigs using A/C pewter alloy (92% tin/7.75% antimony/.25% copper) without any problems. I still use the Frankford Arsenal Drop Out mold release to ease removal of the finished casting. And, since this alloy melts at 563º F, there's no worry about powder painting.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Bdnoble84]

10 hours ago, Will Wetline said:

smalljaw67, you have been a tremendous help to me in my jig making experiences but I think in this one instance you have mixed up your metals. Re your above response, do I remember correctly that you were casting Rotometals 281 alloy (58%bismuth/42%tin) and had to melt the casting out of the mold? If so, the problem was with the bismuth, not the tin. I plucked this factoid from a long, scientific, Wikipedia entry on bismuth: "Bismuth expands 3.32% on solidification."

 

 Back on topic, I like Munkin's suggestion to pour tin.

 

 https://www.rotometals.com/tin-ingot-99-9-pure/

 

I have cast and powder painted 1/8 oz. Poison Tail jigs using A/C pewter alloy (92% tin/7.75% antimony/.25% copper) without any problems. I still use the Frankford Arsenal Drop Out mold release to ease removal of the finished casting. And, since this alloy melts at 563º F, there's no worry about powder painting.

 

 

 

What would the weight be on that alloy?

 

 

 

 

[Will Wetline]

Pewter is about 2/3 the weight of lead.

[smalljaw67]

15 hours ago, Will Wetline said:

smalljaw67, you have been a tremendous help to me in my jig making experiences but I think in this one instance you have mixed up your metals. Re your above response, do I remember correctly that you were casting Rotometals 281 alloy (58%bismuth/42%tin) and had to melt the casting out of the mold? If so, the problem was with the bismuth, not the tin. I plucked this factoid from a long, scientific, Wikipedia entry on bismuth: "Bismuth expands 3.32% on solidification."

 

 Back on topic, I like Munkin's suggestion to pour tin.

 

 https://www.rotometals.com/tin-ingot-99-9-pure/

 

I have cast and powder painted 1/8 oz. Poison Tail jigs using A/C pewter alloy (92% tin/7.75% antimony/.25% copper) without any problems. I still use the Frankford Arsenal Drop Out mold release to ease removal of the finished casting. And, since this alloy melts at 563º F, there's no worry about powder painting.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

You are absolutely correct!!!!! I still have some ingots of the 281 and I remember getting it because it was more dense than pure tin and the first time casting it I had to torch it out of the mold. I appreciate the heads up, I do not like giving bad info and it has been awhile since I was casting non lead alloys. I also like the pewter alloy deal, a little lighter with higher melting temp, that could help me out down the road, I now have reason to look at all the different alloys on Rotometals.