Shallow crank hooks ripping out

[IndianaFinesse]

Lately I've been having problems landing fish on shallow cranks, specifically a kvd 1.0 with the stock #6 hooks.  I don't have a dedicated shallow crank rod, so I just have them on a 7' medium power fast action rod for now.  I've been doing all of the standard things to compensate for that, using stretchy (8lb.) mono, and an extremely light drag.  But they still usually throw the hook half way through the fight, my hooking percentage is near 100% but my landing percentage is only 40-50%.  Is there anything else I can do other than get a moderate action shallow cranking rod?  Would switching the hooks to a heavier gauge wire help? 

[Bluebasser86]

I switch the stock hooks on the 1.0 out to a short shank EWG Gamakatsu treble and lose very few fish on them. I fish mine on a 6' 8" M/F spinning rod with 8lb fluorocarbon. 

[fishnkamp]

You will find a medium power moderate action rod will help land those fish with treble hook baits.

Here is where your budget comes in.  A Berkley Lightning shock rod can be purchased for $49 or less. Check Wal Mart. They often have this 6'6 medium moderate rod on an unmarked clearance for as low as $15. Just find one at your local Wally world and have them do a price check on it at the register.  

My wife uses the spinning rod version and I use two of the baitcasting versions. This is her primary crankbait rod.  Mine only get used when fall striper season comes around and I need 4 different rattle trap baits on deck at once.  If you choose the spinning version Dicks has the Pflueger President reels on sale for $49.99 and they manufacturer is offering a $10 rebate right now.  That rod matches really nicely with a model 6935.

 

If your budget can afford to go higher take a look at a Dobyns Fury FR 705CB for $110, or an Irod Genesis II IRG 703CC. That runs $159.  Another great option would be a Falcon Bucoo Trap Caster.   Those last two are my primary cranking rods for shallow to mid depth cranks, squarebills, and traps.  Mine are matched up with Daiwa Tatulas and Tatula CTs.  By the way these rods fish spinnerbaits nicely also.

Anyway the "moderate action" means the rod is a little slower tipped and bends further down the rod blank. This really helps absorb the shock of a fish running and helps keep the trebles from dislodging.

Changing out the hooks help some but the proper action rod does help a lot.

[Bankbeater]

Have you tried sharpening the hooks? 

[scaleface]

7 hours ago, IndianaFinesse said:

   so I just have them on a 7' medium power fast action rod for now.  

 

Thats what I use on shallow divers .

[IndianaFinesse]

3 hours ago, Bankbeater said:

Have you tried sharpening the hooks? 

The hooks are plenty sharp, I hook almost every fish that bites. The problem occurs while fighting the fish, over half of the time the hooks rip out/come out.

[TOXIC]

Don't play with them.  Get them in ASAP!!  "Fighting" them too long gives them the opportunity to throw the crank.  Once hooked, solid constant pressure back to the boat.  Any slack or give in the line lets them get the crank flopping.  If you truly "hooked" them they can't spit the crank on a tight line.   

 

And on edit.....If you horse them too hard, you can rip the hooks out.  So there is a happy medium.  

Edited June 27, 2017 by TOXIC

[tander]

I changed out my Bandit crankbaits to the Mustad KVD Elite hooks, rarely loose a fish. I also use a glass rod with med. action

 for my shallow running cranks.

[WIGuide]

I would swap out line to something a little heavier and tighten the drag just slightly. It sounds like you aren't getting good enough penetration with the hook to get them in past the barbs. Also remember to keep constant pressure on them, because if you don't, they're going to find a way to pull the hooks out. 

[NHBull]

Just for the heck of it, last weekend I threw the smallest of crank on a Med / Xf with a loosened drag and it worked pretty well.  Clearly not the preferred setup, but never thought I would throw something that light

[Outdoor Zack]

8 hours ago, fishnkamp said:

You will find a medium power moderate action rod will help land those fish with treble hook baits.

Here is where your budget comes in.  A Berkley Lightning shock rod can be purchased for $49 or less. Check Wal Mart. They often have this 6'6 medium moderate rod on an unmarked clearance for as low as $15. Just find one at your local Wally world and have them do a price check on it at the register.  

My wife uses the spinning rod version and I use two of the baitcasting versions. This is her primary crankbait rod.  Mine only get used when fall striper season comes around and I need 4 different rattle trap baits on deck at once.  If you choose the spinning version Dicks has the Pflueger President reels on sale for $49.99 and they manufacturer is offering a $10 rebate right now.  That rod matches really nicely with a model 6935.

 

If your budget can afford to go higher take a look at a Dobyns Fury FR 705CB for $110, or an Irod Genesis II IRG 703CC. That runs $159.  Another great option would be a Falcon Bucoo Trap Caster.   Those last two are my primary cranking rods for shallow to mid depth cranks, squarebills, and traps.  Mine are matched up with Daiwa Tatulas and Tatula CTs.  By the way these rods fish spinnerbaits nicely also.

Anyway the "moderate action" means the rod is a little slower tipped and bends further down the rod blank. This really helps absorb the shock of a fish running and helps keep the trebles from dislodging.

Changing out the hooks help some but the proper action rod does help a lot.

 

Could you link that pflueger rebate please? 

[Raul]

You don't need a dedicated rod, what you need to do is reduce your drag settings.

[fishnkamp]

https://s7d2.scene7.com/is/content/dkscdn/FrontEndDev/F&S/2016/Rebates/2017_PureFishing_PfluegerPresidentRebate.pdf

[Clinton john]

Most will disagree with me but here is what I would do and use.

 

7' mh with a 6.4:1 gear reel.

15# big game

drag set high

and a strong hook set and don't waist time getting them in.

 

I change the hooks out to bigger hooks and add a small black dot right above where the front hook is mounted, make it with a black sharpie, the bass will focus on it and hit the bait in the head giving you a better hook set and make it harder for them to throw the bait.

 

I like strong rods and strong line and set the hook like I'm trying to jerk their face off better to break my line on hook set then to watch a new personal best throw the hook because I didn't use a setup without enough a**  and twinkled toed my hookset.

 

Hope this helps you sir, like I stated most won't agree with how I fish my cranks but it works for me as long as I keep a eye on my hooks and change them when barbs start to break off.

[SFL BassHunter]

48 minutes ago, A5BLASTER said:

 

I change the hooks out to bigger hooks and add a small black dot right above where the front hook is mounted, make it with a black sharpie, the bass will focus on it and hit the bait in the head giving you a better hook set and make it harder for them to throw the bait.

 

 

I am curious about this. How do you know they actually focus on this dot you placed in front of the front hook?

I fish shallow 4-5 feet and my cranks usually go from 3-6 feet. If the dot is at the bottom of the crank and the crank is at the bottom of the water, how will this dot work? Wouldn't I want the dot on the top of the crank?

 

I write the depth of my crank between the bill and front hook. Will they focus in on that the same as the dot?

 

16 hours ago, IndianaFinesse said:

Lately I've been having problems landing fish on shallow cranks, specifically a kvd 1.0 with the stock #6 hooks.  I don't have a dedicated shallow crank rod, so I just have them on a 7' medium power fast action rod for now.  I've been doing all of the standard things to compensate for that, using stretchy (8lb.) mono, and an extremely light drag.  But they still usually throw the hook half way through the fight, my hooking percentage is near 100% but my landing percentage is only 40-50%.  Is there anything else I can do other than get a moderate action shallow cranking rod?  Would switching the hooks to a heavier gauge wire help? 

 

I'd say make sure you have no slack on your line. Keep constant pressure on the fish.

I do a good hard side sweep with my cranks. Don't crank too often but ever since I made sure my cranks had good hooks out the box I've only lost 1 small fish. I use the KVD cranks, and Academy H2O cranks.

Not all cranks are made the same and some just have crappy hooks.

I would say the KVD cranks have pretty decent hooks. I don't think that is your issue.

[Clinton john]

I got the tip from a video Mark Menzies (sp) put out and that's what he does to his cranks.

 

The way I know it works is I did it just as Mark said to do and what he said the bass would do is in fact what they are doing.

 

Before I did this trick the bass would be hooked on the back hook only 90 % of the time I would say, since I started doing this yesterday 100% of the bass I have caught have been hooked by the front and back hook and the face end of the crank was facing towards the throat of the bass, telling me the bass is concentrating on that spot and hitting the bait on the head end of the bait.

 

You can look up the video, the spot goes on the side of the bait just above where the front hook is mounted.

52 minutes ago, SFL BassHunter said:

I am curious about this. How do you know they actually focus on this dot you placed in front of the front hook?

I fish shallow 4-5 feet and my cranks usually go from 3-6 feet. If the dot is at the bottom of the crank and the crank is at the bottom of the water, how will this dot work? Wouldn't I want the dot on the top of the crank?

 

I write the depth of my crank between the bill and front hook. Will they focus in on that the same as the dot?

 

 

I'd say make sure you have no slack on your line. Keep constant pressure on the fish.

I do a good hard side sweep with my cranks. Don't crank too often but ever since I made sure my cranks had good hooks out the box I've only lost 1 small fish. I use the KVD cranks, and Academy H2O cranks.

Not all cranks are made the same and some just have crappy hooks.

I would say the KVD cranks have pretty decent hooks. I don't think that is your issue.

I will get you a pic to show where they have turn up the paint with their tooth patch when they bite it on the head and not the tail end of the bait.

[Clinton john]

Here you can see the size of the hooks I change out too, they are double the size that comes on most cranks.

 

I use Bandit cranks 99.99% of the time.

 

You can also see the scratch marks from where the bass or hitting the bait on the front end instead of the back end of the bait.

 

Hope this helps yall.

[Team9nine]

2 hours ago, A5BLASTER said:

 

Before I did this trick the bass would be hooked on the back hook only 90 % of the time I would say, since I started doing this yesterday 100% of the bass I have caught have been hooked by the front and back hook and the face end of the crank was facing towards the throat of the bass, telling me the bass is concentrating on that spot and hitting the bait on the head end of the bait.

 

So if I did the same thing to my cranks that already have red hooks on them, would it confuse the hell out of the fish?

[Clinton john]

I don't know I don't use red hooks.

 

Look no one has to do this, I found the tip cool and it works just like the professional bass angler who made the video said it would, if someone doesn't want to do it they don't have too.

 

The man asked for suggestions and I gave him the info I had that is working for me.

 

I will post y'all anouther pic from a bass I just caught and y'all can decide for your self.

One hook is under his jaw and the front hook is in the corner of his mouth, bad pic but that's what I took when I landed him.

[Columbia Craw]

Quite a few years ago, I switched to a good quality E Glass series of rods and my fish landed ratio went up by well over 25 percent. My rods now are composite or a crankbait action graphite which are moderate.  If the water temp is way up where you are fishing, remember the tissue on a bass mouth softens as the temp gets high. 

[IndianaFinesse]

2 hours ago, A5BLASTER said:

I don't know I don't use red hooks.

 

Look no one has to do this, I found the tip cool and it works just like the professional bass angler who made the video said it would, if someone doesn't want to do it they don't have too.

 

The man asked for suggestions and I gave him the info I had that is working for me.

 

I will post y'all anouther pic from a bass I just caught and y'all can decide for your self.

One hook is under his jaw and the front hook is in the corner of his mouth, bad pic but that's what I took when I landed him.

To me it looks like the fish only half wanted it (or missed the bait), considering the crank isn't even really inside its mouth.  I kinda doubt the fish could even see the dot, let alone try to eat the dot specifically.  

Thanks for the reply though.

[LxVE Bassin]

Moderate Action rod would solve everything.

[Outdoor Zack]

18 hours ago, fishnkamp said:

https://s7d2.scene7.com/is/content/dkscdn/FrontEndDev/F&S/2016/Rebates/2017_PureFishing_PfluegerPresidentRebate.pdf

 

That's awesome, thank you.

 

I just bought one the other day without knowing about this, so I'm really glad you posted it.