FordsnFishin Posted June 9, 2017 Posted June 9, 2017 While I'm not new to bass fishing, I am new to reading charts, graphs, and using sonar. This year I finally up'd my game. I've fished out of a 14 ft Jon boat for 8 years, and recently purchased a 21ft 250hp fishing boat. Huge change for me. But I've had big interest in fishing tournaments for years. Now that I'm getting comfortable using the boat, I'm trying to learn the electronics. Lowrance hds 10 with SI and structure scan at console and Lowrance hds 5 up front. So I'm looking to peak my abilities of using this equipment. But what I'm asking of you guys is, from looking at a chart what do you do to break down the lake before actually using your electronics to scan the bottom? Than once you have key spots in mind, what do you look for when actually going to that location? I'll post some navonics photos of my local lake that I fish often. While I've learned hot spots from trial and error in this lake, I'm sure there is so much more I could learn from reading charts and fish areas I would not normally. When my computer quits acting up I'll load screen shots I've been taking on the lake. Thanks fellas. Zachary Quote
Super User WRB Posted June 9, 2017 Super User Posted June 9, 2017 The first thing to do is determine the life depth zone by metering the depth bass and bait are suspended or holding in. Lets say it's 8' for this study. The map is in 3' elevations so 9' close enough. Looking for tight lines above and below the 9' shaded zone on this map. The further the 9' zone goes out into the main lake the better. The longer the flat area between the 6' and 12' lines is good. The tighter the 3'-6' and 12'-15' lines are together and 9' flat areas are on the points are points of interest to me. Tom 5 Quote
FordsnFishin Posted June 10, 2017 Author Posted June 10, 2017 11 minutes ago, WRB said: The first thing to do is determine the life depth zone by metering the depth bass and bait are suspended or holding in. Lets say it's 8' for this study. The map is in 3' elevations so 9' close enough. Looking for tight lines above and below the 9' shaded zone on this map. The further the 9' zone goes out into the main lake the better. The longer the flat area between the 6' and 12' lines is good. The tighter the 3'-6' and 12'-15' lines are together and 9' flat areas are on the points are points of interest to me. Tom Is it a totally loaded question if I were to ask... Without even being on this lake, what would be determined or in question, as a "hot spot"? Obviously the time of the year comes into play, wind direction, main forage...ect. But is it totally a experience thing to really break something down? Eventually I'm determined to bring up a map of a lake, look at it, and say these are the areas i want to fish and feel confident about it. As of right now, I don't feel confident about that. I know the more I study it and experience I put into it the better I'll get. I guess I'm just looking for key points to look into. Thank you for your time WRB. Quote
Super User WRB Posted June 10, 2017 Super User Posted June 10, 2017 If I go fishing tomorrow morning I know what the weather is and have a good idea what seasonal period it should be, warm water summer period. My first thing I do is look at the water to determine what color and clarity it is. I get into my boat and turn on my sonar unit to determine the water temperature, then while my big OB is warming up I make a short survey of the marina using my trolling motor to look for bass and baitfish. Next I store the TM and idle around the area still looking for bait fish or bass so I know what depth to focus on. I am looking for signs of a Shad spawn, bluegill under docks, depth of suspended fish or a thermocline. My hypothetical was 8' for your map study, shrinks your lake to specific structural elements that was defined. The 2nd map page with the island and long fish hook shape point should jump out to everyone because it's so obvious. How many anglers would follow that point out to the end? It's the room size flats on the points that are't so obvious that also hold bass. If this doesn't help, I can't help you. Tom 2 Quote
Global Moderator 12poundbass Posted June 11, 2017 Global Moderator Posted June 11, 2017 I'd move the 10 up front, you spend more time up front and are further away from the unit up front. Quote
FordsnFishin Posted June 22, 2017 Author Posted June 22, 2017 #WRB , just wanted to send you a big thanks. That is a huge help. Like I said I am new to this part of fishing, (really breaking things down), and you helped me point my head in the right direction. As far as determining bass/forage life depth zone, I'm assuming that's determined greatly by the time of year? Then actually going out scanning for them, depth finder and eyes. You've changed my approach greatly. this whole season I've been to focused on sharp drop offs. An to say the least they have not paid off. Haha Again, I appreciate your time Wrb. On 06/11/2017 at 9:51 AM, 12poundbass said: I'd move the 10 up front, you spend more time up front and are further away from the unit up front. Agreed. But I do most of my searching trolling with the big motor. Mark the fish, than go up front. Seems I just need 2x Lowrence hds 12s and I wouldn't have any issues haha. But than I'd be living on my boat as the woman would have me kicked out of the house. 1 Quote
Global Moderator 12poundbass Posted June 22, 2017 Global Moderator Posted June 22, 2017 42 minutes ago, FordsnFishin said: #WRB , just wanted to send you a big thanks. That is a huge help. Like I said I am new to this part of fishing, (really breaking things down), and you helped me point my head in the right direction. As far as determining bass/forage life depth zone, I'm assuming that's determined greatly by the time of year? Then actually going out scanning for them, depth finder and eyes. You've changed my approach greatly. this whole season I've been to focused on sharp drop offs. An to say the least they have not paid off. Haha Again, I appreciate your time Wrb. Agreed. But I do most of my searching trolling with the big motor. Mark the fish, than go up front. Seems I just need 2x Lowrence hds 12s and I wouldn't have any issues haha. But than I'd be living on my boat as the woman would have me kicked out of the house. Just break down and order 2 of the 16 inch carbon units, that way no matter where in the boat you are you have a clear view of what's on the screen. On top of that the guy fishing 100 foot away from you will be happy too, because he'll be able to see what's under his boat too. ? 1 Quote
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