New At Drop Shot Rigging: Question

[MobyGrape]

I'm new at drop shot fishing. I've watched various youtube videos explaining drop shot rigging. Not everybody uses the same techniques. My question is, am i required to use a specific "drop shot hook & weight"?  Couldn't i use any #1 hook & any type of weight as long as it's between 1/4-3/8 oz. weight?

[Angry John]

The weights are designed to slide off if hung up giving you back the rest of the rig.  The hook is your choice as i have used a lot and a few good ones.  Are you running a standard nose hook or texas rigged on a heavier setup.  I sometimes run the gamy finess wide gap with the weed guard.

Edited June 4, 2017 by Angry John

[RoLo]

 

As long as it provides the desired weight (usually 1/8-1/2 oz), any sinker can be used with a drop-shot rig.

However, one of the big advantages of the drop-shot rig over its predecessor the dropper rig,

is the 'drop-shot sinker', which is an adjustable sinker. A 'drop-shot sinker' is not only sacrificial

(breakaway without losing the whole rig), but the distance between the bottom and the hook can be

repeatedly readjusted without any retying.

 

Your favorite #1 hook would be fine for drop-shotting as long as it's not a heavy wire hook,

which causes bait droop and an unnatural delivery. Nose-hooking is by far the most popular rigging,

but in weedy areas you can also Texas rig your bait. For instance, Roboworm offers

a drop-shot rebarb hook for T-rigging.

 

Roger

 

 

 

[MobyGrape]

I haven't tried any type of drop shot rig yet.

[Darren.]

Agree with @RoLo, drop shot weights offer the advantage

of not losing the entire rig...

 

But they are not required. In fact, I've been testing out a 

method from Gary Senft (AZ bass pro) in which he slides 

a bobber stop on the line first, then his hook, then another

bobber stop (no knot).

 

Then at the bottom, you actually tie on a weight - this can be

any weight, honestly, but some are better than others at 

coming through rocks, and so forth.

 

The bobber stops on either side allow "infinite" adjustment of

the distance from hook to weight.

 

My testing has been 100% successful thus far. Once the bass

takes the bait, set the hook as normal for DS (reel down and

lift, or sweep). The bait slides down to the weight and you bring

the bass in, unhook, reset hook, done. (I don't use barrel swivel).

 

 

[WRB]

You can rig it anyway you want but the results may not be what you expect.

Almost everyone over fishes the drop shot rig until they learn it's nearly a dead stick presentation with small rod tip movements.

Unless you are using line over 12 lb test, fishing water over 30' deep and in the wind, you rarely need a weight over 1/4 oz. 1/8, 3/16, 1/4 drop shot weights with a built in swivel line clip are inexpensive and recommend you use them. Aaron Martens method of node hooking  and wacky hooking works great, watch his video. 

I use Owner Mosqiuto size 1 hook for nose and wacky hooking finesse worms. Owner #5133 size 1/0 or 2/0 for weedless hooking depending on the soft plastic body diameter. Sunline 7# Super Sniper FC line, 2 power fast action spinning outfit for the majority of my drop shot presentations.

Tom

[RoLo]

On 6/4/2017 at 1:37 PM, WRB said:

You can rig it anyway you want but the results may not be what you expect.

Almost everyone over fishes the drop shot rig until they learn it's nearly a dead stick presentation with small rod tip movements. Unless you are using line over 12 lb test, fishing water over 30' deep and in the wind, you rarely need a weight over 1/4 oz.

 

As Tom suggests, "overworking" the bait is Drop-shot Enemy No.1 (something I learned the hard way)

 

Most lures are activated by raising the rod-tip, but the best way to activate a drop-shot bait

is by lowering the rod-tip, which activates the bait while still maintaining bottom contact.

Normally, a lure is activated by lifting and dropping the bait, but when nodding the rod-tip

on a drop-shot rig, your bait moves down first, then back up when you tighten the line.

 

Roger

 

 

[Fishin' Fool]

22 hours ago, MobyGrape said:

I'm new at drop shot fishing. I've watched various youtube videos explaining drop shot rigging. Not everybody uses the same techniques. My question is, am i required to use a specific "drop shot hook & weight"?  Couldn't i use any #1 hook & any type of weight as long as it's between 1/4-3/8 oz. weight?

 

Yes you could use any hook you want as long as it's a Gamakatsu split shot/drop shot hook in a size 1 and a 1/8th or 3/16th tungsten cylinder weight. Now you have all my secrets

[Dorado]

2 hours ago, RoLo said:

 

As Tom suggests, "overworking" the bait is Drop-shot Enemy No.1 (something I learned the hard way)

 

Most lures are activated by raising the rod-tip, but the best way to activate a drop-shot bait

is by lowering the rod-tip, which activates the bait while still maintaining bottom contact

 

Roger

 

 

That is such sound advice. For me, that is one of the most important components

[fishwizzard]

11 hours ago, Darren. said:

Agree with @RoLo, drop shot weights offer the advantage

of not losing the entire rig...

 

But they are not required. In fact, I've been testing out a 

method from Gary Senft (AZ bass pro) in which he slides 

a bobber stop on the line first, then his hook, then another

bobber stop (no knot).

 

Then at the bottom, you actually tie on a weight - this can be

any weight, honestly, but some are better than others at 

coming through rocks, and so forth.

 

The bobber stops on either side allow "infinite" adjustment of

the distance from hook to weight.

 

My testing has been 100% successful thus far. Once the bass

takes the bait, set the hook as normal for DS (reel down and

lift, or sweep). The bait slides down to the weight and you bring

the bass in, unhook, reset hook, done. (I don't use barrel swivel).

 

 

 

This is breaking my mind.  I just bought a small pile of tackle to give dropshotting a go, but this looks like such less hassle.  

 

And add me to the "over-works the lure" club.  

[Crestliner2008]

Even though I've been drop shotting for more years than I care to think about, I gotta admit, I've just learned something new! Using bobber stops instead of a knot. Excellent idea. Do they make bobber stops in clear plastic?

 

A final thought. I now believe the drop shot is more of "do nothing" or "dead sticking" approach. When I first started using this techinique, I would jiggle it almost constantly. Now I know better. Just let it sit. You'll get bit.

[Darren.]

51 minutes ago, Crestliner2008 said:

Even though I've been drop shotting for more years than I care to think about, I gotta admit, I've just learned something new! Using bobber stops instead of a knot. Excellent idea. Do they make bobber stops in clear plastic?

 

A final thought. I now believe the drop shot is more of "do nothing" or "dead sticking" approach. When I first started using this techinique, I would jiggle it almost constantly. Now I know better. Just let it sit. You'll get bit.

 

Not that I have seen. I ordered a batch of 100 off Amazon the other

day, and they are *supposed* to be cylindrical instead of oval like

most that we find in stores. They are supposedly thinner and go 

thru guides better.

 

Oh, ordered them in black.

[Todd2]

I've only been throwing a DS for a couple of years but it's worked it's way up in the rotation. My experience has been a little different. I've seen days where shaking seems to work better, but I shake with intervals of pauses on slack line. I like the 3/16 oz thin finesse type weights.

 

As far as the bobber stop trick...I'm trying to wrap my head around that. I'm trying to figure how how dealing with two bobber stops is easier than just tying a Palomar knot with a long tag end that you can adjust drop length by snapping on a DS weight where you want. Not being critical..because it's working, just curious.

 

 

[Darren.]

2 minutes ago, Todd2 said:

I've only been throwing a DS for a couple of years but it's worked it's way up in the rotation. My experience has been a little different. I've seen days where shaking seems to work better, but I shake with intervals of pauses on slack line. I like the 3/16 oz thin finesse type weights.

 

As far as the bobber stop trick...I'm trying to wrap my head around that. I'm trying to figure how how dealing with two bobber stops is easier than just tying a Palomar knot with a long tag end that you can adjust drop length by snapping a DS weight where you want. Not being critical..because it's working, just curious.

 

For one, there's no line twist with the bobber stop method.

The hook spins freely. Granted, you can buy spin shot hooks,

but bobber stops are cheaper.

 

Another positive that I've found is adjusting the hook - you 

have more options than simply changing where the weight

is located. If you have the spin shot hook with the ability

to snap in a new length of line-to-weight, then that's a 

solution; however, this is ultimately less work.

 

As well, when walking a shore, or in a kayak and you want to

stow the rod for another technique, or to move locations, you

can slide the hook down to the weight and not have the weight

swinging around getting hung up on your rod, or other rods.

 

Yeah, you can take off the weight, then reattach, but with

this, you can have your cake and eat it, too...

 

It's just another rigging method that some will like, others may not.

[reerok]

12 minutes ago, Darren. said:

 

It's just another rigging method that some will like, others may not.

 

Thanks for sharing this method.  I definitely want to try it as I have a deep fear of tying palomar knots with super light flouro.  The slightest little burn or twist and there just isn't much knot strength left.  This double bobber stopper trick could completely eliminate that.

 

No one has asked so I will: Is there really enough tension from the bottom stopper to plant the hook in the bass's mouth?  Obviously the answer is yes or else you wouldn't be sharing this but it just seems in my feeble brain that the hook would slide down the line instead of stick.  

 

That said I'm looking forward to giving this a go.  Thanks for sharing the knowledge!

[lmbfisherman]

5 minutes ago, reerok said:

 

Thanks for sharing this method.  I definitely want to try it as I have a deep fear of tying palomar knots with super light flouro.  The slightest little burn or twist and there just isn't much knot strength left.  This double bobber stopper trick could completely eliminate that.

 

No one has asked so I will: Is there really enough tension from the bottom stopper to plant the hook in the bass's mouth?  Obviously the answer is yes or else you wouldn't be sharing this but it just seems in my feeble brain that the hook would slide down the line instead of stick.  

 

That said I'm looking forward to giving this a go.  Thanks for sharing the knowledge!

My feeble brain is saying the same thing.  My brain says the tension from the bottom bobber stop, can it really be enough to get a good hookset.  On top of that, what if the bass is a biggun, it just seems like it would be an issue.  Of course if people are using it, it must not be a problem!  reerok if this works out let me know!  No offense Darren I'm sure you wouldn't post something that doesn't work, but my silly brain would like confirmation!

[J Francho]

6 minutes ago, reerok said:

I definitely want to try it as I have a deep fear of tying palomar knots with super light flouro.

 

You need to get over that.  It's the least cutting knot around.  Only cinch the line from the tag end.  NEVER the main line.

 

*******************************************

 

Further notes about drop shot, specifically deep, vertical drop shot, over 15' deep.  Straight fluoro, no leaders.  I start at 1/2 oz., and sometimes go up.  I don't want my bait to move.  Since you aren't casting (it's strictly vertical) the heavy weight is fine on a ML or M rated rod.  I'm not married to any particular size hook.  Match the hook to the size of the bait.  I'll use anything from 1/0 down to a #6 for smallmouth bass.  They all work equally well.  The Gammy Split Shot hooks are good, as are the Owner Mosquito hooks.  Bait wise, use a floating bait if you're after a subtle presentation - pretty much completely still.  If you want to twitch, or do the lift-drop presentation for more active fish, then a sinking bait works best.

[reerok]

1 minute ago, J Francho said:

 

You need to get over that.  It's the least cutting knot around.  Only cinch the line from the tag end.  NEVER the main line.

 

*******************************************

 

I know I do.  And I use it for my drop shot knots every time I'm on the water.  I just scarred myself a few years back when I first started drop shotting and I broke a few off because of lazy knot tying.  I'm learning, but I have one thick head with a peanut  sized brain.  

 

Off subject: I did switch to the double pitzen knot for flouro tied directly to lures.  So far for me it has superior strength and durability (on flouro only!).  It's also easier to tie with large treble hook baits.  That said, the palomar remains my go to knot in most other situations.

[Darren.]

1 hour ago, reerok said:

 

Thanks for sharing this method.  I definitely want to try it as I have a deep fear of tying palomar knots with super light flouro.  The slightest little burn or twist and there just isn't much knot strength left.  This double bobber stopper trick could completely eliminate that.

 

No one has asked so I will: Is there really enough tension from the bottom stopper to plant the hook in the bass's mouth?  Obviously the answer is yes or else you wouldn't be sharing this but it just seems in my feeble brain that the hook would slide down the line instead of stick.  

 

That said I'm looking forward to giving this a go.  Thanks for sharing the knowledge!

 

Yes. And I was VERY skeptical at first, too. I was watching Gary Senft's

show on Amazon Fire TV when he was detailing his method and fishing

with it, catching some really nice AZ bass. Did some googling on it to 

see if others used it and some had, everyone with success, that I recall.

 

So Gary recommends the black bobber stops because they're better with

the light line. I have use light line with long poles and used yellow and

red stoppers but they were way too loose (meant for thicker line), so they

would be a problem.

 

Probably like me, you guys just oughta try it as an experiment.

 

Another tip, I am using regular DS pencil weights and some teardrop, to 

properly do this I have to open up the eye so I can tie a regular knot like

a uni, or palomar. Otherwise I fear the pinch would cause an issue with

the pressure of the hook and fish pushing on it.

[J Francho]

I'm not sure I follow the logic here...though I'm sure it works fine.

 

You modify the clip, making it non-adjustable, so you can rig the hook to be adjustable?  I mean you solved a problem that didn't exist.  The dropper length is adjustable as long as the tag end.  It doesn't make any difference if you shorten the dropper length by moving the sinker up the tag line.  Fish don't care if there's extra line after the sinker.

 

Just seems like a fussy solution to a non problem.

[Crestliner2008]

Can someone give a link to these black, slimmer bobber stops?

[Darren.]

17 minutes ago, J Francho said:

I'm not sure I follow the logic here...though I'm sure it works fine.

 

You modify the clip, making it non-adjustable, so you can rig the hook to be adjustable?  I mean you solved a problem that didn't exist.  The dropper length is adjustable as long as the tag end.  It doesn't make any difference if you shorten the dropper length by moving the sinker up the tag line.  Fish don't care if there's extra line after the sinker.

 

Just seems like a fussy solution to a non problem.

 

Well, yeah, I suppose, John, but it's just something I've been

trying and it works pretty darn well. I disagree with "fussy

solution" though. Why? because I don't tie long leaders in

general, so I don't leave long tag ends.

 

So the way I drop shot, this is actually a good solution. A problem

that did exist is line twist. This does eliminate that. Already mentioned

other swivel hook solutions, but this is just an option, not the be-all

of dropshotting techniques....

 

As for the weight being tied on, so what. I mean really, it doesn't

matter if it is tied on or not. Clip makes it easier to lose in event

of a snag. What was done prior to that invention? You get snagged

in rocks with a TX rig, you probably lose the whole rig, right?

8 minutes ago, Crestliner2008 said:

Can someone give a link to these black, slimmer bobber stops?

 

This is what I'm going to try. Not out a whole lot of $ if they don't

work out. Edit: $6.99 with Prime.

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HBDTCW0/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Edited June 5, 2017 by Darren.

[Crestliner2008]

Thanks Darren.

[Darren.]

1 minute ago, Crestliner2008 said:

Thanks Darren.

 

I'm supposed to get my order by Wednesday. Not sure I'll be able

to test them then, but will at least get an idea of the quality, and

if they're as narrow as said.

[Choporoz]

2 hours ago, Darren. said:

As well, when walking a shore, or in a kayak and you want to

stow the rod for another technique, or to move locations, you

can slide the hook down to the weight and not have the weight

swinging around getting hung up on your rod, or other rods.

 

Actually, this is not at all insignificant to me.  I tend to leave a DS rod rigged for extended periods and it is unwieldy.

 

Add me to the list of charter members of the 'Move it too much club'....I do not have the patience for dead/very slow presentations....but I'm working on it.