BASSMAN1301599783 Posted January 9, 2007 Posted January 9, 2007 Hello everybody. The day has finally come, I get to order my boat. ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D I need help to figure out what things I should have the dealer install before I take delivery. I am getting a Lowe Stinger 170 with a 75hp Opti. http://www.lowe.com/fishboats/stinger/170.html I am going to upgrade the TM already from a 12V 46# to a 24V 71# but that's all I got so far. The salesman told me a huge long list of things I should put on it but I get the feeling he is just trying to sell me a bunch of stuff to get the price higher. Money is not a huge issue. I don't want to kick myself later for not spending the money in the first place to buy something that would have made boating life easier, more enjoyable or saved me a headache in the long run. I am completely in the dark on this because the only other boats I have owned are little tin cans with low hp outboards so any help at all will be GREATLY appreciated. Thanks, Bryce Quote
DMB Fan Posted January 9, 2007 Posted January 9, 2007 What options is trying to sell you? You should be getting all the basic's for the boat. If money is not an option and you like all the bells and whisles go for what you like. how about a spare tire, boat cover, trailer bunks sometimes an option but it's probabley a good idea to have them. Just remember you can always add more (stereo, additional depth finder) for far less than what their asking for. Quote
NBR Posted January 9, 2007 Posted January 9, 2007 Depth sounder off the trolling motor, Console or rear depth sounder for when you run the big engine and water temperature. Other stuff in time! Be sure you have all the required safety gear. Quote
bipr8 Posted January 9, 2007 Posted January 9, 2007 TM is a must, good thinking going up to the 24V. Front Depth finder with temp is a must (I assume it only comes with a depth finder on the dash). I would get a GPS system on the dash as well if you are going to fish unfamiliar or large waters. Get a "lean-to "pro" fishing seat" for the front if it doesnt have one (you may want to buy that on your own instead of financing that though). You will want at LEAST a 2 bank charger (for your 24v TM), maybe a 3 bank charger and have them hook it up to both batteries on your TM and 1 to your cranking battery. Not sure how it works on a new boat (I have only bought used), but if you can get a "custom" cover that actually "snaps" down the boat, they are sweet. But anyway, look into a decent cover unless you have it in the garage. You can always cheap out though and just buy a tarp (I did that for years), but it is a pain in the butt when it starts raining and you are on your back trying to bungee the thing down. Tanson Saver. See if it comes with one or if they will throw one in. They probably cost about $50.00. Also if the boat doesnt have it, see if they will "throw in" a rod tie down (bungee cord thing) for when running with the gas motor. They dont cost much at all, but nice to have when you leave the dealer instead of ordering one after the fact. Make sure the runnng lights are there in the boat, my buddy bought a Ranger and the lights werent there and he had to wait a few weeks for them. Wheel bearing buddies of some sort would be a good idea if they dont come with the boat. I would think they do come with though. Maybe get a free hat out of it too! Quote
HPBB Posted January 9, 2007 Posted January 9, 2007 You said you opted for a 71# 24 volt TM over the 46# 12 volt TM. Good choice. Is that a motor guide or minkota? I think its a motor guide. If it is make sure you new motor is a Digital motor guide. The new digitals are way better than the older MG. I know they are alittle more $$$, but well worth it. It should say "digital on it if it is also if it has 5 speed. (1,2,3,4,5) makes on the foot petal its not a digital. Digitals use a veriable speed. GPS is nice. I have them on both of my boats, but if need to cut something that would be it. a cover is a great option. a good cover. one that is water proof, and able to travel with is a plus.a good cover will cost some $$ but it will help protect you boat for years. I had two custon travel cover made for my two boats in 97. they are water proof, and snap on( when traveling with them bungies help hold to). It cost me $600 for both, my 14 footer was only about $125, my 17 1/2/ footer is a V-hull with a full windshield. It cost over $500, but getting both together got me a discount. either way it was money well spent. 10 years later both are showing their age, but still doing their job great. a cover is a must, if the boat is going to sit outside. Quote
hwsanders Posted January 10, 2007 Posted January 10, 2007 All good ideas. Just make sure you understand installation cost; they can be as much as the accesory you are having installed. If you are somewhat handy with tools and wiring I would mount my own depth finders (personnal preference = depth finder/gps combo Humminbird 787C), 2 bank battery charger. When I bought my boat and asked about these accesories being added BassPro was going to charge me $375 labor......I did it myself. Quote
Super User cart7t Posted January 10, 2007 Super User Posted January 10, 2007 You'd be better off listing what the boat will come with and the options he's trying to sell you. There are more things on a fiberglass rig that I'd prefer come at the time of sale than on aluminum. Just about any accessory you want to add to any boat can be purchased cheaper after the sale, without having to pay for dealer rigging. Unless of course he wants to match prices and install it for free. Quote
Super User Sam Posted January 10, 2007 Super User Posted January 10, 2007 Some small suggestions for you to consider: 1. Replace the fuses leading from the trolling motor batteries with a circuit breaker. 2. Install the best on-board battery charger for all batteries that you can afford or will fit on the boat. 3. Put a spare tire on your trailer (and remember to carry the jack in your car/truck). Some boats have glass fuses on the wires leading to the trolling motor and it is difficult to replace those fuses while on the water. I love my circuit breaker and have never had any more problems after I replaced the fuses. A fast and reliable on-board battery charger is a must. It will save you a lot of time and aggravation. You don't see many spare tires on boat trailers and I suggest you consider this addition. My spare tire is mounted like they do in Florida, on the right front of the trailer on a "T" set up. As for upgrading your electronics, I had a Lowrance sonar and WASP unit installed on my boat and I love it. You can't get lost with the unit I purchased as it follows you around with a red line. Of course, get the lake chip to install in the unit as the lake chips are excellent. And one more thing to get for your boat. Get a large snap hook, like the type you find at the end of your wench cable, to have on board to hook onto the boat's front wench guide to run your anchor rope through it when anchored in chopppy water to stop the water from coming over the bow. The boat will then rock with the waves, allowing the anchor rope to go up and down through the snap hook. Don't forget to have an extra trolling motor prop and outboard motor prop and pin and nut and wrench to have on board, just in case. Now polish her up and put her in the water! Quote
BASSMAN1301599783 Posted January 11, 2007 Author Posted January 11, 2007 Thanks for all the help guys. I have pretty much narrowed it down and figured I can install most of the stuff I am going to buy on my own and if I need any help I can just ask you guys. here is the accessory list... 3 bank charger factory cover SmartCraft gauge set 10 micron fuel filter Manual jack plate keel shield, because I go to the river allot and beach on a sand bar rod holder tubes circuit breaker instead of the TM fuses another FF for the bow An upgraded FF with GPS for the console Bearing buddies Spare tire for the trailer How does that sound? Anything I forgot? Thanks again, Bryce Quote
Super User cart7t Posted January 11, 2007 Super User Posted January 11, 2007 I'd skip the rod holder tubes. Most guys wind up tearing those things out and going with the mesh sleeve rod wraps. You can cram far more rods in the box without tangling and you don't have to worry about guide damage due to taking rods in and out of those tubes. Quote
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