Deep Cranking

[Djamesbond3]

Hey guys I'm just wanting to ask some questions about deep cranking. I've never tried it and have a 7'10" medium heavy rod and 5.4:1 gear ratio reel coming in this week to get started. I've read about fishing structure and ledges but I just want to know is learning to deep crank worth it? I've always fished shallow or used lipless cranks in under 10 foot of water and I love cranking. Are there any other tips or stories about others who finally took up deep cranking and have you had success? If it helps I live in south Mississippi and the water temps are over 80 so I imagine they are in deep water.

[Basseditor]

I'm not sure the depth of the structure your targeting. It takes a long cast to get maximum depth out of big deep cranks. If it is permissible, I like long lining. (Some tournaments have rules against it.)

 

Strike King 6XDs can get down to 20-23 feet. My personal best, as well the PBs of my sons all were caught on these. We've caught many 6 to 13 lb bass deep cranking. 

[scaleface]

I've been doing a quite a bit of  it the past few years . The 6XD has been my deepest diving lure . I purchased some Berkely Dredgers this winter but have not got a chance to fish this year . I hope so soon .Its   worth it . I fish   structure such as long extended points and sometimes I'll just find bass accidentally with the depth finder . I use the Red Eye Shad a lot too in deep water , working it on the bottom like a worm .

 

I like the crankbait to hit the bottom quickly  but not dig in to deep . So I use different cranks on 12 lb mono to cover depths from 10 to about 18 foot . Some of  The Dredgers are suppose to dig deeper than 20 foot .

 

 

[Djamesbond3]

4 hours ago, basseditor said:

I'm not sure the depth of the structure your targeting. It takes a long cast to get maximum depth out of big deep cranks. If it is permissible, I like long lining. (Some tournaments have rules against it.)

 

Strike King 6XDs can get down to 20-23 feet. My personal best, as well the PBs of my sons all were caught on these. We've caught many 6 to 13 lb bass deep cranking. 

Yeah I have quite a few 5 xd's and a couple of 6 I'm just waiting on my gear to get in. I know you can fish shallow all day in some areas but I just want to learn to fish that 10'-25' range during the day cause I've heard that's when you can catch some big ones or find some schools. Everywhere I've fished I'm just usually banging the banks so the bite really slows down in the afternoon for me.

2 hours ago, scaleface said:

I've been doing a quite a bit of  it the past few years . The 6XD has been my deepest diving lure . I purchased some Berkely Dredgers this winter but have not got a chance to fish this year . I hope so soon .Its   worth it . I fish   structure such as long extended points and sometimes I'll just find bass accidentally with the depth finder . I use the Red Eye Shad a lot too in deep water , working it on the bottom like a worm .

 

I like the crankbait to hit the bottom quickly  but not dig in to deep . So I use different cranks on 12 lb mono to cover depths from 10 to about 18 foot . Some of  The Dredgers are suppose to dig deeper than 20 foot .

 

 

Yeah I've tried to use the lipless in deep but I'd much rather fish the 5 or 6 xd quicker. I'm the type of guy that would rather fish quickly and try everything before I settle for working a worm haha. Don't get me wrong I use a worm frequently but that's after I've tried crankbaits, spinnerbaits, or jerkbaits usually.

[scaleface]

I  use a depth finder to locate how deep the bass are .  I find in the summer that   a lot of fish are holding at the same  depth all over the lake . They will likely be at that depth on structure . 

[Djamesbond3]

5 minutes ago, scaleface said:

I  use a depth finder to locate how deep the bass are .  I find in the summer that   a lot of fish are holding at the same  depth all over the lake . They will likely be at that depth on structure . 

Yeah honestly I think I need another depth finder. I have like a 200 dollar one but I may need to upgrade to a better structure scan and side scan.

[WRB]

2 things to remember; 1) thermocline depth, 2) actual lure diving depth.

No reason to fish deeper than a thermocline depth.

Most deep divinig crankbaits can't reach maximum rated diving depths by casting 40 yards.

Think of a lure hitting the water and starting it's dive as you retrieve the lure, it takes 10 yards or more to dive down, another 10 yards to get further down while your retreiving the lure is trying to pull it upwards, the lure starts coming back up the remaining 20 yards. Your deep diving crankbait is only at it's deepest dive for maybe 5 yards. This means you need to cast well beyond the structure you plan to fish and have a short area the lure is at the deepest depth. The only way you know how deep a lure dives is casting in an area you know the depth and can feel the lure hitting bottom. I suggest you test each lure to know exactly how deep it will run for you.

Tom

 

[scaleface]

25 minutes ago, Djamesbond3 said:

Yeah honestly I think I need another depth finder. I have like a 200 dollar one but I may need to upgrade to a better structure scan and side scan.

 

I have ab inexpensive Lowrance down scan on my boat . My portable unit that I use in small waters is  an old single color  Eagle Fish Mark . The fish show up in text book arches.  

[Tucson]

The problem seems to be as WRB stated:  It takes most of your cast distance to get down to depth, then it starts to come back up on the retrieve.

 

Wouldn't be nice if we had some means of quietly moving the boat while pulling our lures behind us for extended periods?  Maybe something electric so it's quiet, slow, and maneuverable.  Not sure what to call this technique, maybe something like "towing" or "trailering" or something.  Well, we can only hope.

[Djamesbond3]

1 hour ago, Tucson said:

The problem seems to be as WRB stated:  It takes most of your cast distance to get down to depth, then it starts to come back up on the retrieve.

 

Wouldn't be nice if we had some means of quietly moving the boat while pulling our lures behind us for extended periods?  Maybe something electric so it's quiet, slow, and maneuverable.  Not sure what to call this technique, maybe something like "towing" or "trailering" or something.  Well, we can only hope.

Yeah that's why I bought the 7'10 so that I can get as much distance as possible on The cast

[papajoe222]

Deep cranking is a great presentation for catching fish that you have already located, either with a presentation like a C-rig or football jig, or with your electronics. It will wear you out if you use it to probe structure in search of fish. 

Just be sure that the area you're targeting is around half the distance of your cast from you.  

If the bite slows, go back to whatever you used to locate them and you can usually pick up a couple extra fish. 

 

[RoLo]

7 hours ago, Djamesbond3 said:

Yeah honestly I think I need another depth finder. I have like a 200 dollar one but I may need to upgrade to a better structure scan and side scan.

 

For my cartopper and for rental boats on vacation, I use a cheap portable sounder with dry cell batteries.

As a matter of fact, I use the same one as scaleface, the Lowrance Fish Mark 320

 

You do not need an expensive depth sounder and you CERTAINLY don't need side-scanning   

Roger

[Djamesbond3]

Just an update. I have went deep cranking twice now and today it went great. Caught 12 fish and in the lake I was fishing, 12 is an awesome day. One was 5.5 pounds. I'm learning that it definitely has to bounce off the bottom or off of something to get a strike. Really glad I started doing it cause I'll do anything to avoid finesse or worm fishing haha

[Hez]

On 5/21/2017 at 8:52 AM, scaleface said:

 I purchased some Berkely Dredgers this winter but have not got a chance to fish this year . I hope so soon .

 

Yes sir...we are patiently waiting on your feedback...although I do believe you did mention it would likely be July...

3 hours ago, Djamesbond3 said:

I'll do anything to avoid finesse or worm fishing haha

 haha don't come to Florida then.  That is what the bass love to eat down here...soft plastics is king...

[NHBull]

I have tried the dredgers and find they do get down faster than anything else I have tried and come well balanced.  I now try them in my usual jig conditions

 

Getting to the desired depth also has a lot to do with the line you choose.  I am running 10lb braid GAMMA on a baitcaster with leader and prefer it over FC......and I know I am in the minority 

[Hez]

44 minutes ago, NHBull said:

 I am running 10lb braid GAMMA on a baitcaster with leader and prefer it over FC......and I know I am in the minority 

 

Interesting.  I wanted to start experimenting with different lines while deep cranking this summer...I will definitely add this to the list.  Very thin diameter...yet very strong....the only cons I see are what little buoyancy the braid would create...and the castability...but I definitely understand the pros....

 

Thanks!!!

[scaleface]

2 hours ago, Hez said:

 

Yes sir...we are patiently waiting on your feedback...although I do believe you did mention it would likely be July...

 haha don't come to Florida then.  That is what the bass love to eat down here...soft plastics is king...

 

I used two of them Memorial day the 10.5 and 14.5 . The lake is high and muddy so it was not idea deep cranking conditions . Like NHBull said , they seem to dive steeply and both ran true . The 10.5 was hitting bottom at 8 foot and the 14.5 was touching at 12 foot . They have a tight action and   feel good . The profiles are  a little smaller than similar running baits but they are a little wider . Theres a lot of weight there to be thrown a long ways . I only caught two white bass , I'll hit the points this summer when the water clears up .

 

Edit : Using 12 lb Big Game .

[Scarborough817]

1 hour ago, NHBull said:

I have tried the dredgers and find they do get down faster than anything else I have tried and come well balanced.  I now try them in my usual jig conditions

 

Getting to the desired depth also has a lot to do with the line you choose.  I am running 10lb braid GAMMA on a baitcaster with leader and prefer it over FC......and I know I am in the minority 

i've joined you in this but i went with 30lb 832 

1 hour ago, Hez said:

 

Interesting.  I wanted to start experimenting with different lines while deep cranking this summer...I will definitely add this to the list.  Very thin diameter...yet very strong....the only cons I see are what little buoyancy the braid would create...and the castability...but I definitely understand the pros....

 

Thanks!!!

in the one time i went out to test the rod i found the casting to be very good i had one issue with a backlash but that was me being stupid and not setting up my reel before casting. i suggest a longer leader though say 10'

[NHBull]

1 hour ago, Hez said:

 

Interesting.  I wanted to start experimenting with different lines while deep cranking this summer...I will definitely add this to the list.  Very thin diameter...yet very strong....the only cons I see are what little buoyancy the braid would create...and the castability...but I definitely understand the pros....

 

Thanks!!!

While it floats if unattached to anything, it sinks like crazy once surface tentioner is acquired.  Also 832 will sink on its own.....size diameter outweighs natural characteristics. .....

[WRB]

6 hours ago, NHBull said:

I have tried the dredgers and find they do get down faster than anything else I have tried and come well balanced.  I now try them in my usual jig conditions

 

Getting to the desired depth also has a lot to do with the line you choose.  I am running 10lb braid GAMMA on a baitcaster with leader and prefer it over FC......and I know I am in the minority 

10 lb braid could be a major problem using a bait casting reel.

Tom

[RoLo]

6 hours ago, Hez said:

 

Interesting.  I wanted to start experimenting with different lines while deep cranking this summer...I will definitely add this to the list.  Very thin diameter...yet very strong....the only cons I see are what little buoyancy the braid would create...and the castability...but I definitely understand the pros....

 

Thanks!!!

 

Though I've used lots of 10-lb braid for smallies, I'm really not a fan.

The diameter of 20-lb braid is only 1/1000th inch more than 10-lb braid (0.009" vs. 0.008")

but your getting "twice" the breaking strength. 

 

Roger

 

[NHBull]

36 minutes ago, WRB said:

10 lb braid could be a major problem using a bait casting reel.

Tom

Tom,

I get it, and will likely settle on 20 lb smackdowwn, but so far the 10 is working well and I want to be able to speak from first hand knowledge.

[Scarborough817]

1 hour ago, NHBull said:

Tom,

I get it, and will likely settle on 20 lb smackdowwn, but so far the 10 is working well and I want to be able to speak from first hand knowledge.

any reason for smackdown over 832?

[NHBull]

1 hour ago, Scarborough817 said:

any reason for smackdown over 832?

..I have 2 CB rods and have 832 on the other

...SD is.19 vs 832 at.23

I was just gifted a 150 you spool

I do like the feel of SD, don't think I have ever had a backlash...except flipping

 

It is really a coin flip and I have not tried 20 lb SD

[mooneyes]

I love to fish deep crankbaits, and to me deep means about 20ft.  I don't need to fish deeper than this as the thermocline on most of the lakes I fish forms about this depth or even a little less.    I use a 7ft 6" Heavy Moderate rod and 12lb FC for my line.   I prefer the Revo Winch for my reel, both the gen 2 and gen 3 have worked well for me.    IMHO there is no incredible secret to deep cranking other than your casting, make sure you cast far enough that your bait spends as much time in the strike zone as possible, this and understanding structure and how the fish are relating to it.     The rest comes with time on the water.