New to daiwa

[dsqui]

So I jumped to the dark side and got a tat sv.  Very smooth reel but I know something is set up wrong after seeing many people post how well this thing casts.  I set it up like I would any other bait caster.  Find where the bait falls and hits the water but don't back lash then back everything off slowly from cast to cast to find the perfect spot I just can't seem to find it.  I know it's got to be me because of all the rave these things get.  I bought it for skipping jigs but want to try thw 8.1.1 ratio for jerks.  I just can't get the distance like I do with a lews.  I havnt given up on the reel I really want to like it it feels good in the hand and skips jigs nicely I just think I'm not doin something right.  Anyone have any advice for this thing.  I know to tighten the spool tension down to where there is no play in the spool then back it up maybe a quarter turn to get a little wiggle. Maybe I need more wiggle then what I have it could it be something else.  Or is it just that these reels aren't as great as every one claims them to be

[new2BC4bass]

Read fishinkamp's post on setting up a Daiwa correctly with MagFarce Z.

 

 

Also I question that a reel with an SV spool is the correct reel if shooting for maximum distance.  My personal view is that it applies too much braking if looking for maximum distance.  At least the way it comes from the factory.

 

Another thing is you may not have gotten a typical specimen.  I only have one reel with an SV spool (an Alphas SV105).  I was totally upset with how it performed....given the opinions everyone else seemed to have of this reel.  Distance wasn't good and it backlashed easier than any other reel I own...and I own over 50 of several brands, with Daiwa being the majority.  I had not only watched videos on setting it up correctly, but taken advice from people on this site.  I wound up sending it out to a professional.  Now.......I've only had it out once since getting it back, but it performed more like I expected it to.  I was told to expect spending a bit of time getting use to how it now handles before I could expect to get the best out of it.

[QUAKEnSHAKE]

It doesnt have to be you. The same hype happened with the SV105. After more people got to use the reel more people found it didnt cast all that far and had a higher brake profile to get that easy skipping thumb free casting. Its hype right now due to being new. 

[jtesch]

You can loosen up the Tat SV quite a bit. I can bomb with mine. Keep in mind your gonna want to readjust for skipping. Remember the SV's are designed to not backlash. This will effect distance.

[Cgrinder]

Bearings could also be greasy. What sort of lure weight are you trying?

[fishnkamp]

I know several people with these reels that are amazed by them.  Let's look at your whole setup.

First zero the brake dial ( a step many ignore) Set the cast control till there is no side play, then loosen it till it has a little side play (this should make the lure look like it is falling too fast compared to most reels). Set your brakes about half way.  Make sure you set the drag as well.

 

Now tell us about the rod it is on.  What is it and what is the action? What is the lure rating? How heavy is the lure you are trying to cast?  Does it fall in the range of the rod's lure rating.

 

 Several people have seen the ads saying how great these reels cast light baits, then mount the reel on a rod not designed to throw light baits.  I have read posts like that on several websites. 

 

If this is mounted on say the typical 7 foot MH fast action rod it should rate around 1/4 to 3/4.  That will skip a 3/8 ounce jig and trailer well, but it is not going to cast a 1/8 ounce bitsy bug jig.  It will backlash any reel almost.  You would want a rod more like a medium action perhaps more like my 6 foot BPS Extreme Medium mod rod.  That rod is great with that type of bait.  While you are learning to work with this reel, try using a lure in the middle of the rod's lure rating.

 

Lastly you may have gotten a reel that was over greased or grease got in the wrong place. I have heard of this happening occasionally, if so either take it locally or send it to DVT to be cleaned and serviced.  If you leave your line on the spool I am sure DVT can mount it on a rod and test it's operation for you after it is serviced.

I have to admit to you I do not own an sv reel yet, but I do fish with 1 Daiwa Exceler, 4 Tatula Type Rs and 2 Tatula CTs.  All of these play very similarly. I get great casts and they rarely backlash if I set them according to the directions.  Good luck, that should be a great reel. 

 

 

[JustJames]

3 hours ago, new2BC4bass said:

Read fishinkamp's post on setting up a Daiwa correctly with MagFarce Z.

 

 

Also I question that a reel with an SV spool is the correct reel if shooting for maximum distance.  My personal view is that it applies too much braking if looking for maximum distance.  At least the way it comes from the factory.

 

Another thing is you may not have gotten a typical specimen.  I only have one reel with an SV spool (an Alphas SV105).  I was totally upset with how it performed....given the opinions everyone else seemed to have of this reel.  Distance wasn't good and it backlashed easier than any other reel I own...and I own over 50 of several brands, with Daiwa being the majority.  I had not only watched videos on setting it up correctly, but taken advice from people on this site.  I wound up sending it out to a professional.  Now.......I've only had it out once since getting it back, but it performed more like I expected it to.  I was told to expect spending a bit of time getting use to how it now handles before I could expect to get the best out of it.

X2 on how to adjust properly tension spool from @fishnkamp posted. I also agree on distance but this thing can skip the alphas 105 that is. I don't use this reel to bomb cast as much mostly skipping pretty light weight lure. even though it won't cast as good as my 50e but not a lot of backlash to worry when I cast 1/4oz lure and also I can adjust distance by loosen the brake a knot or two.

[rippin-lips]

You don't need to zero the brake dial when adjusting the spool tension. There is no magnetic braking being applied until the spool is moving. Try it both ways and you can see it has no affect on anything. Been using them for years this way. Set spool tension so you have about 2mm of wiggle and you're good to go. Then set brakes high and work then down. 

[new2BC4bass]

3 hours ago, rippin-lips said:

You don't need to zero the brake dial when adjusting the spool tension. There is no magnetic braking being applied until the spool is moving. Try it both ways and you can see it has no affect on anything. Been using them for years this way. Set spool tension so you have about 2mm of wiggle and you're good to go. Then set brakes high and work then down. 

 

Good to know I hadn't set mine wrong.  Not had the chance to reset per fishnkamp's outline.  Now I won't bother since mine seem to be working okay for me.  I'm willing to try most anything if I think it will improve my casting....salt over the left shoulder before first cast, sweaty sock in right pocket, walk clockwise around a black cat, etc., etc.  Heck, I'm even willing to practice more.  

[rippin-lips]

1 hour ago, new2BC4bass said:

 

Good to know I hadn't set mine wrong.  Not had the chance to reset per fishnkamp's outline.  Now I won't bother since mine seem to be working okay for me.  I'm willing to try most anything if I think it will improve my casting....salt over the left shoulder before first cast, sweaty sock in right pocket, walk clockwise around a black cat, etc., etc.  Heck, I'm even willing to practice more.  

I can see where it 'might' have a very small affect on a traditional spool when setting up per the lure drop method since the spool is spinning. Though very highly unlikely because it won't be fast enough to activate the brake rotor into the magnetic set plate. On the sv spools you don't worry with the lure drop so it serves no purpose. I've never done it with any Daiwa reel sv spool or not and they all perform just fine. Think about when people add a little spool tension to help in the wind or to dial the spool in perfectly while out on the water. I can bet most don't back the brakes off first. They do it on the fly. Maybe that's the technical way to do it right but you aren't missing out on anything by not doing it. 

[fishwizzard]

Wow, 2mm of side to side play?  I have been keeping mine far tighter than that, just at the point where any play is detectable.  Going to have to try them that loose next time I go out.  

[rippin-lips]

34 minutes ago, Bunnielab said:

Wow, 2mm of side to side play?  I have been keeping mine far tighter than that, just at the point where any play is detectable.  Going to have to try them that loose next time I go out.  

2mm was a rough guess. I make sure that when I grab the spool and apply any pressure I can feel that it's got wiggle room. I used to set it up to where it took a little force to feel it.   

[fishwizzard]

Ok, got you.  I have been erring on the side of "too tight" so I am going to try to back it off a bit more and see how that does.  

[WRB]

Sometimes new reels come from the factory over lubed, too muck grease or oil, check it out because that will cause you casting distance.

I set the centrifical brakes 50% on every other brake. The mag setting at 15. The spool tension knob with very slight drag, the lure falling freely but stops on it's own water lure hits the deck with over running too much. Remember your thumb can solve over running.

Tom

[JustJames]

I set mine not to have any side play just free falling when cast to help eliminate backlash sometime I don't even have to thumb.