Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I couldn't find a thread that answered my question so I figured I'd start one.

 

On my finesse rod I'm throwing 20lb braid with an 8lb fluoro leader. I used to use straight mono because that's what it came with (cheap-o spinning combo). 

 

Now that I've switched to braid with a light fluoro leader my lures keep breaking off on the cast....What knot should I be using? I use this rod for Texas rigs/Ned rigs/Wacky rigs/Shaky Head.

  • Super User
Posted

There are many good knots, but the best one is the one you can tie perfectly every time.

For me:

Improved Uni

San Diego jam

 

* Wet the line and know before you tighten

Do not tug on the knot to tighten

 

 

I also use the exact same exact set up

  • Like 2
  • Super User
Posted

San Diego Jam is what I've been using this year for all my mono/fluoro and I haven't had one break yet, using it for 6 - 20lb lines. 

  • Super User
Posted

Something is wrong with your overall setup if you're breaking off on the cast. That said, I use a Palomar for everything leader wise, 4# FC and up. No issues at all. 

 

- T9

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted

Agree, something is amiss with your knot, it seems.

 

A properly tied palomar, or uni should hold fine. 

I mostly tie the uni 5-6 wraps. Either will need lots

of saliva and careful, slow cinching. Don't go fast.

 

I'm assuming you are talking about the terminal knot

and that the entire leader + lure isn't flying off?

  • Like 1
Posted

Thanks, I'm guessing I wasn't tying my knot right. Plus I haven't been wetting my line.

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted
9 minutes ago, BrianMRetter said:

Thanks, I'm guessing I wasn't tying my knot right. Plus I haven't been wetting my line.

 

Not as big of a deal with mono, but fluoro heats up with

the friction of cinching down the knot, weakening it quite

a bit....

  • Like 1
Posted

I always use an improved clinch knot and thread the line through the eye twice then make about 5-7 wraps then through the loop created when going through the eye and then the loop created after the wraps.

 

  • Super User
Posted

I have used the Trilene knot on mono or fluoro. to my baits  my whole life. On everything from 2lb ice fishing line, to 20lb big game. Never had an issue. Only time I use a palomar knot is when I tie baits direct to braid. My leader knot has been the Alberto for as long as I can remember.

 

I did used to use a palomar knot when tying dropshots on fluoro, but since I switched to VMC spinshot hooks a few years ago, I quit doing that.

  • Like 3
  • Super User
Posted
36 minutes ago, TX-Deluxe said:

Anyone ever sprayed line conditioner before they cinch down the knot?

 

Not me, but to me it would be the same as

saliva, i.e., it'd work fine.

  • Super User
Posted
1 hour ago, TX-Deluxe said:

Anyone ever sprayed line conditioner before they cinch down the knot?

 

No. After I make my knot and it's ready to be cinched down, I'll dip the entire thing in the water and then cinch everything down. Works great for me. 

  • Super User
Posted

It probably fits better in the 'blasphemy' thread on another page, but there is some contention that wetting knots is an old carryover from days gone by, back when it was truly needed, because lines weren't as technically advanced as they are now. It's more important to form and draw them up properly, and slowly, than it is to wet them. I know I only wet them less than half the time now as I slowly break old habits B)

 

- T9

  • Like 3
  • Super User
Posted

If you spit on your knots and they never break, do you give saliva the credit?

If you spit on your knots and one suddenly breaks, does saliva get the blame?

I never wet any knot, and they don't break, so where should I put the credit?

 

I'd love to have the power of one wive's tale  :)

 

Roger

  • Like 3
  • Super User
Posted

Well, to wet or not to wet...

 

@Team9nine mentioned proper tying and

slow cinching. The slow means less heat 

generated by friction of the line tightening

against itself. So yes, done that way, you can

skip the wet. I've done it, too. Just that for

me, wetting the knot is habit, and I still go

fairly slow when cinching down, but not as

slow as when I don't use saliva.

 

So @RoLo, the credit goes to the one tying

the knot, wet or dry! :) 

  • Like 1
Posted

Palomar or SDJ will get the job done just fine if tied correctly. If using the Palomar, make sure you don't let the lines cross over one another when making your loops. 

  • Super User
Posted

@Team9nine, I am married to an old wife, so they are ok by me : )

 

While  there may be no need, most Manufacturers of FC still recommend the method.

 

  I have found that chapstick on the line help knoting the larger lines.

  • Super User
Posted
18 hours ago, Team9nine said:

It probably fits better in the 'blasphemy' thread on another page, but there is some contention that wetting knots is an old carryover from days gone by, back when it was truly needed, because lines weren't as technically advanced as they are now. It's more important to form and draw them up properly, and slowly, than it is to wet them. I know I only wet them less than half the time now as I slowly break old habits B)

 

- T9

 

I tie a pretty solid knot.  I'm changing my process now.  I have suspected that this is true.  When I retie, the line is often wet already. 

  • Like 1
Posted
9 hours ago, J Francho said:

 

I tie a pretty solid knot.  I'm changing my process now.  I have suspected that this is true.  When I retie, the line is often wet already. 

 

Water isn't a lubricant.  Saliva, for many biological reasons, is a lubricant.  

  • Super User
Posted

One of my fishing partners is a scientist/college professor with a molecular science background and he looked at a couple FC's and manufacturing process.  Briefly stated, friction and heat still an adverse effect on FC line.  He did say that some knots naturally creat less friction i.e. The uni

 

........personality, I have never had an issue so I will continue to slobber on FC

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted

Spitting is free, so if it works for you, keep doing it. :thumbsup_blue: The few knots I ever use are all low friction knots, so I'm saving my saliva for licking envelopes :) FC and nylon have pretty good heat tolerance, well north of whatever you could generate with an inch or two of fishing line. Improper knot formation will kill most people long before friction ever will.

 

-T9 

  • Like 1

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Unfortunately, your content contains terms that we do not allow. Please edit your content to remove the highlighted words below.
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.


  • Outboard Engine

    fishing forum

    fishing tackle

    fishing

    fishing

    fishing

    bass fish

    fish for bass



×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.