Differences in high and low priced fish finders?

[BASS fisherman]

After recently getting a boat to use for the 2007 tourney season, I need to get a couple fish finders for the boat.

The three main reasons I want a fish finder include:

1.  To know the water temperature.

2.  To be able to know how deep the water is.

3.  To be able to find sructure.

I have been looking at alot of different lower priced models, and they all seems to come with the three basics I am looking for.

Would it be a waste of my money to buy a one hundred dollar FF just to get the basics?  Or should I get a two-four hundred dollar FF to have more options?

80% of the lakes I will be fishing are not huge, so I don't feel the need for a unit with GPS.  

What are some options I am over-looking that I will regret not having with the purchase of a lower priced FF?

[Tucson]

Screen size is one important factor, the detail is a lot more readable on a larger screen.  Pricier units have more power and color screens but the step up to a color screen is a big one price-wise, not worth the trade-off for my purposes.  Higher end units often have navigation aids, map chips, GPS etc.  These may or may not be desirable depending on your use.  Higher pixel ratings are more desirable too as well as the number of grayshades the unit is capable of.

Sounds like you're trying to get the best bang for the buck.  I'd suggest you look at the fisheagle 320.  It retails for 200 but most everyone sells it for 150 or so.  I felt this had all the features I wanted at a very reasonable price.  Best of luck.

[NEBassMan]

I also use the Eagle Fishmark 320.  It has everything you're looking for.  Screen is very readable.  I don't think you'll be dissapointed.

Jason

[cart7t]

You're really looking at the pixel count on an LCD graph.  The more pixels the more defined the picture you'll have to view.  Most of the lower end units that run for around $100-150 are fine for the front of the boat but when you're doing more detailed fish finding when running the boat you'll want a better graph for the console. I'm neither here nor there on color units.  I've not seen any overwhelming reason to pay the price difference for color over B&W.

[Its a big one]

i have a eagle fishmark 320 on the front of my boat i like it

[jdw174]

It comes down to pixel count.  The cheaper units have a low count and don't do nearly the job of defining what's down there as the more expensive units do.  My old Eagle unit (8 yrs old) gave up the ghost this year, and I popped for a new Lowrance 334ci.  I couldn't be more pleased.  My next step is to replace the old X-45 in the bow with a newer unit with more pixels, although it won't be color like the 334.  Most likely an X-135.

[Catt]

BASS fisherman

#1: Lowrance Cuda $69.99, I have the EX slightly large screen still under $100

#2: Hummingbird 525 $129.99 I like the quick disconnect of these units. I have the 535

#3: Garmin 140 $119.99, no longer have it but had no problems

I see no need for high dollar units when all I want are the 3 items on your list. Depth finders are tools required far locating structure and cover on said structure. Some argue the high end units give you better details, I say details of what, if its 10' foot deep its 10' deep.

[Low_Budget_Hooker]

Some argue the high end units give you better details, I say details of what

High end fishfinders are a much different animal than the avg $100 unit.

My furuno unit on my salt boat ran close to 6k.  It was amazing.  What does it pick-up?  What doesn't it pick-up.  This unit was 5000w and would mark a 2"x2" piece of bait dropped overboard as it fell to 500 ft!  

Better finders also eliminate "false" alarms.

They also show thermoclines

This unit could also help you indentify different species and this was very handy on the ocean.  A pilot whale and giant bluefin tuna are roughly the same size.  Big difference is density.  A bluefin would mark as a green mass and a pilot whale would be yellow.

I understand that all this is not level of electronics is not neccessary in fresh water but the question was asked so I answered it.

[HPBB]

The differences between hight $$ and low $$ fish finders are like night and day. You get what you pay for. If your just looking to see what the dept is, then a cheep one is fine ,10 foot is 10 foot. but if you use it to read the bottom. see what is down there, the higher $$ ones win hands down. And the choice of color or not? for everybody that sayes color doesn't matter. Use a color on then try to go back to a b&w unit. You will not want to use the b&w unit anymore. I used to think that there was no difference between color and b&w units till I got one. I will never get a b&w unit again.

One question I always ask about units is why do most people put the better unit at the dash and the cheeper unit on the bow. I have the same units bow and at the dash. I know when your running from place to place  and triing to find stuff when running the big motor you use the one on the dash. But when your fishing (99.9% of the time) your at the bow. wouldn't it be smarter to be looking at the better unit?

[Way2slow]

Any flasher or LCD depth finder will give you the basic information you say you're wanting, right down to the cheapest things made.

It's when you start wanting more/better information about whats down there and want to start doing away with all the clutter /junk you see on them is when the prices start increasing.  As LBH said, the better the unit, the better the electronics that provide the display and seperation.

You pretty much get what you pay for, buy those cheap Cuda's, Garmin 140's and that junk and you get just what you're wanting.  If you want to know if the blob in the screen is a fish, a tree top/stump,  a school of shade/baitfish,  or just a random noise return don't waste your money on that cheap junk.

You can get some fairly good units that will serve you well in the $250 - $300 range, especially if you pick up the year end clearance sales.  As you might gather from my post, I have no use for those cheap units that the pixels look like building blocks compared to the 360 and 480 units.

Look at it like this, to a commercial fisherman, a $1,000 Lowrance would be a cheap, low end alternative.

[CrazedL.IFisherman]

Rookie question here but im about to purchase either, or both a fish finder and depth finder, i care about the structure more than anything else, im sick of practically fishing the deeper water blind, id like to know whats down there and find where the hawgs are hanging out, but my friends dad said fish finders give you good details of the structure underneath the water as well, and so he said you dont really need a depth finder when a fish finder does both, is that possibly true?

[Tom Bass]

Yes, a fishfinder will give you depth as well as some information about the bottom terrain as well as the possibility of fish.

[Way2slow]

Not sure what info you got but they are basically one in the same.  The only depth finder only units are those digital readout units made for boats that only want to know the dept.

All LCD's and flashers give the depth along with traces of anything protruding from the bottom and between the bottom and the transducer on the boat.  Now, just how good you want to interpit the information the units are giving you is where the differences come in.  The better the unit, the better the information you get.

I should also comment, you should never consider any of them a "fish finder".  The upper line color models will come the closest to being called a fish finder but in reality, you will seldom ever see a bass that you catch on the "fish finder".  You will however see plenty of structure and cover that has the potential for holding bass.  Good units will pickup and show fish on the edge of a drop off and close to a stump if they are not laying right on it, some will seperate fish as close as a couple of inches from cover but the main thing you are looking for is where bait fish come in contact with these areas.

[Low_Budget_Hooker]

Another point.  Temp

I know every rock in my lake, I should, it's been close to 25 yrs.  Anyway, we take the cheapie out there in early spring just to monitor the temp.  We have learned where the fish are according to water temp when we are talking early spring.  We have certain coves we won't bother with if we get readings at the mouth that we don't like.

So yes, Crazed, it's a rookie question but a darn good one!

Many units, most even, are a depth finder, "fish" finder (term used VERY loosly). and temp gauge.  Some even show mph, but not very well.

So yea,...good question, I'm sure some folks were confused about that.

[Catt]

LCD's & Flashers are not fish finders, the rod & reel in your hand is a fish finder never confuses the two. I pay absolutely no attention to the fish symbols on the screen, 90% of the time I catch fish when the screen shows no fish at all.

[Low_Budget_Hooker]

If it's a "fish finder" you want,....Take a portuguese guy fishin'! ;D 8-) ;D

My buddy always used to make a joke about that. Old salt guys aren't big electronics fans. They have a love/hate relationship. He always would joke when someone would say, you really don't have a "fish finder"? and he would reply, "well, whoever told you that was pulling your leg,...I got the best fish finder Portugal ever produced, he's up there preparing baits" and would point up towards me,lol.

[dizzy5868]

I have 2 Eagle 480's on my boat. These units are great for the price. The target seperation is really good on them. Using the different modes of grayscale, reverse grayscale, fish reveal and bottom black you can pretty much find fish in any condition. I have the dash unit transducer epoxyed thru-hull and the graph keeps up with boat even at 60 mph. The sceen is large enough to read without squinting and the menus are easy to use and understand. Eagle has a demo version on there web site you can download and play around with. I would reccomend this unit over the 320 only because of the pixel count.

Rob

[Long Mike]

Probably because the Bottomline company is more noted more for its FishinBuddy locators (the highly portable devices powered by AA  and D batteries)  I feel that many folks overlook their Tounament 480 Max.  It has specs and features normally available on units costing at least twice as much.  Please refer to my Bottomline 480 posting on this forum.  

Be assured that I am in no way affiliated with ANY company who wishes to promote their wares on this site.  Like most contributors, I work for a living (unfortunately)

I fish from an inflatable, so my internet research brought me to the conclusion that I needed one of the FishinBuddy models.  Well, when I starting researching their products, I found that their 480 Max was, hands down, so much better, and so much cheaper than their FishinBuddies that I decided to go for the 480 Max.  Having made that decision, I started researching other products meeting the sme specs in my price range.  I couldn't find any other than the 480 Max.  At a hundred bucks,I think it's one of the best deals around.

Mike

[Matt Fly]

You will be better suited to put a quality unit on the dash and a cheaper one on the trolling motor.

Things that make things cost more.

More pixels for better resolution.

More power output from transducer

Cone angle ( the amount of coverage you see with that transducer)....15 degrees, 20 degrees ......

Types of transducers,     Thru-hull, transom mount, 3-D

Gps

Color-  Once you have used a Black and white for awhile, you will understand why color graphs can't be beat.

Display size.

Best thing to do is wait for the new Fishing Expos that will be kicking off late Dec early Jan and go  watch some of the demo models to see what you like.

Matt

[BORDERBASSER]

I really apologize if I ruffle anyone's feathers here, but I will tell you guys that a quality LCD graph IS a good FISHFINDER.  However, it is only as good as the user.  First off, turn off the fish ID option.  It is JUNK.  Most of the manuals will tell you it is not dependable and why.  At least Eagle/Lowrance does.  It reports back fish symbols based on the strength of the signal return of a given object.  The unit has a preset signal strength range saved in the processor that says if it is between this signal strength and that signal strenght, then it is a fish based on the average denity of a fish.  Problem is, if the graph picks up ANYTHING  that falls within that signal strength range, it shows it as a fish.  I personaly have a Lowrance x-15 on the bow and an Eagle FishElite 480 up front.  Both of these units are awesome.  The Eagle FishMark 320 is the same unit as my eagle, but less pixels (but plenty) and no GPS at a reasonable price.  I have used my Eagle to target black bass in over 30' of water with a drop shot within a foot of bottom.  I'm not talking about targeting fish holding-structure.  I mean, see the fish, catch the fish.  It is not difficult to do, but it takes practice and knowledge of your equipment.  Your sensitivity, chart speed, ping speed (sometimes), and a variety of other factors must be right.  Then it is up to you to interpret what you are seeing.  For instance, if every thing is right, the fish will show up as an arch, IF you are moving or the fish are moving...ie. moving through the cone.  If the fish is not moving through the cone (by whatever means) or is moving slowly, the signal return will show up as a flat or semi-flat line.  My point is, don't let anyone tell you that your depth finder is not also a fish finder, because I an assure you that it is.  But YOU the user, are the biggest part of the equation.  And you don't have to pay the high dollars to get that kind of technology.  Just get the most pixels (vertical are the most important) and largest screen you can afford.  Stay away from the Cuda and similar units.  I think the Eagle fishmark 320 or 480 is under (I think) $200 without the GPS and I highly recomend it.  The Lowrance units are just about the same.  The biggest difference is the power, but power really doesn't come into play all that much untill you start getting into extreme depths.  It can affect a few other things, but the Eagle will have plenty of power for all of what you want to do with it.  The best thing you can do is get familiar with it, read your manual front to back, and once you are familiar with it, take it out of the AUTO mode and learn to customize the settings to your particular conditions at any given time.  It is kinda like a good digital camera.  If you just want to take pictures, put it in Auto, and shoot.  If you want to take fine photographs, take it out of Auto, apply what you know, and go to work.

TJ

[dizzy5868]

I have to agree with borderbasser 110%. You hit it right on the head. I fish rivers most of the time and I have eyes glued to the screen most of the time. See fish, catch fish! The only thing I can add is in water less than 20' your bottom coverage is minimal, meaning you are only seeing the area pretty much just below the boat. The 480 comes with a 200khz transducer which is a narrow cone, but is very usefull for finding fish. I don't reccomend the gps combo though. If the graph or gps quits the unit is junk. You are better off buying seperate units. Any graph will show you fish, however it's up to the user to understand what they are looking at.

Rob