Backlashing mid cast/ Can't get distance

[CTBassin860]

Tighten your spool tension and try using a "roll cast" 

[nameiztaken]

2 Problems:
1: Weightless Senkos are for Spinning reels.

2: 30lb braid minimum. 20 is too small imo.

[Shak Muscles]

9 hours ago, nameiztaken said:

2 Problems:
1: Weightless Senkos are for Spinning reels.

2: 30lb braid minimum. 20 is too small imo.

Weightless senkos are around 3/8 oz so I feel like they should work fine with baitcasters, but yeah I gotta look into getting thicker braid. 

 

[lilbuddy]

On 4/24/2017 at 9:17 PM, Shak Muscles said:

 

I actually went out today and practiced my casts and I was casting much smoother than the past few days. It wasn't backlashing as much and I tried some of the tips such as setting the brakes at 0 before setting tension and I purposely set my tension a bit higher than usual and kept my brakes at 9. I also opened up the brake compartment of my reel but I didn't see any brake thingys inside except for the dial, so I'm not sure about setting the centrifugals on the reel. 

 

 

 

When you take the side off you'll see 4 little orange plastic nubs...they're in a square shape.... If they are up then push them all down...that will tighten up the brakes as well...then once you get use to the reel push on brake up....All of my baitcasters I have 2 up and 2 down (every other one).....

 

Ok, now Im jumping onto this thread b/c I started a similar thread on this issue but with a 6 gill reel.... I don't consider myself a pro (even though they get backlashes too) but I've used baitcasters all the time. I had seen advertisements for 6 gill and thought I would try it out given they were running a promo. 

 

I'm having the same issue with the reel backlashing as the lure is half way to the location Im casting to. I've played with the brakes and tried everything I can think of and everything that was mentioned here....the only thing I haven't done was to take the reel totally apart and clean it. I've taken the side plate off and pulled the spool out....cleaned all those parts and oiled them back up...I did that before I even put line on the reel.

 

I have a variety of baitcasters like abu, bps (bionic) and lews......NONE of those reels do I have an issue with...I even have a cheap abu silver max that works pretty good for the money.

 

I'm starting to chalk this up to a cheap POS reel....I plan on having a buddy try it who definitely has more experience than me. 

 

If you want to see the other thread I had on this product you can find it https://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-forums/topic/189893-6-gill-casting-reels/#comment-2144323

 

[A-Jay]

So much good advice already offered here.

Not wanting to repeat any of it, I would like to humbly offer the following . . . . . 

Rarely has a casting reel Ever Backlashed on it's own. 

But anglers have been know to do so.

A-Jay.

 

[RoLo]

15 minutes ago, A-Jay said:

So much good advice already offered here.

Not wanting to repeat any of it, I would like to humbly offer the following . . . . . 

Rarely has a casting reel Ever Backlashed on it's own. 

But anglers have been know to do so.

A-Jay.

 

 Watch You Talkin Bout Willis?

 

 

Roger

[Shak Muscles]

Thank you all for the good advice. I took your guys' advise and bought myself some 40lb Powerpro superslick line and I'll leave the 20lb for my spinning reel. I also looked into the braking system and apparently the centrifugal brakes on the Assassin are set with a dial rather than manually pulling each brake. So I set the centrifugals to 3 out of 6(I'm not sure what it was at to begin) and right now I still have the magnetics at max but I'll probably drop them significantly since I've read its better to rely on centrifugal brakes more anyway. Once my power pro comes in I'll try it out and see if I can have some more success!

[Finell]

Same exact thing was happening on one of my kastking. It would only take a few seconds to pull out but I was constantly snapping my biospawn swimbait tails. I had two of the same reels and I only had the issue with the one. Sure enough, I finally realized I had 20 pound braid on the problem reel and 30 on the on the good one. Switch the 20 to 30, problem solved!

[Glenn]

Braid is NOT an all-purpose line.  Fluorocarbon is.

 

I never use braid on spinning gear because I use it for finesse tactics.  Braid is buoyant and fluorocarbon isn't.  That makes a HUGE difference with dropshot, splitshot, and other finesse tactics.

 

For baitcasting - braid is strictly for flipping and pitching situations.  Weeds and grass, specifically.  The exception would be frogs, toads, and punching - but again, you're talking heavy weeds and grass.  Braid is built for that.

 

 

[Darth-Baiter]

On 4/24/2017 at 6:36 PM, david in va said:

 The 20 lb braid is the problem with the mid air stops the line is biting into the lower layers

the internal breaks are under the dial;

line too small

 

100%.

 

the braid when it even bites in a tiny bit will cause effen mayhem.  i have 40lb braid on a DC reel.  i can cast it as far as i can and everyonce in a while i can feel it start to go haywire..i can even see it.  sometime i jam on the thumb, and sometimes it starts to bojangles and seems to right itself and i can finish the cast.  with 20lb braid, i dont think i can cast it.  it is not in my wheelhouse of skillsets.

[flyfisher]

Three things come to mind reading he post. 

 

First the braid is too small of a diameter to cast efficiently and easily.

 

Second Kastking reels are junk in my experience and take a while to get set up correctly to the point that I wouldn't even bother anymore and the couple I have are in a bin.

 

Third, you are new to baitcasters and it will happen from time to time.

 

I would use heavier line, probably mono, to learn on as it is more forgiving when you have backlashes then go from there.

[WRB]

2017 thread and hope by now the OB has solved his problem.

Tom

[Darth-Baiter]

maybe the continued discussion will help the next person with the exact same symptoms. we can only hope. 

[dodgeguy]

22 hours ago, flyfisher said:

Three things come to mind reading he post. 

 

First the braid is too small of a diameter to cast efficiently and easily.

 

Second Kastking reels are junk in my experience and take a while to get set up correctly to the point that I wouldn't even bother anymore and the couple I have are in a bin.

 

Third, you are new to baitcasters and it will happen from time to time.

 

I would use heavier line, probably mono, to learn on as it is more forgiving when you have backlashes then go from there.

mono is not more forgiving. braid is easier to get out and doesnt get damaged

[flyfisher]

55 minutes ago, dodgeguy said:

mono is not more forgiving. braid is easier to get out and doesnt get damaged

It has been a while since I had a backlash but when i used to, braid would have a tendency to dig in and the larger diameter mono was easier to pick out.

[WRB]

I have over my time in this site suggested anglers new to bait casting reels learn to cast their reels using 12 lb Big Game mono. The reason is mono is easier to learn to cast with and Big Game is good inexpensive line. I have recommended pulling off 50 yards of braid and tape over the spooled line using Teflon plumbers tape with a few wraps, then winding the 50 yards of braid back onto the reel spool. The reason to reduce the amount of braid when backlashed going deep into the spool. A deep backlash using braid is nearly impossible to pick out without cutting the expensive braid. 

Tom

[JediAmoeba]

On 9/25/2023 at 11:34 PM, Glenn said:

Braid is NOT an all-purpose line.

I have to disagree. I run braid as mainline on all of my rods and reels. Everything from 10-100 lb. I get years and years out of my braid and have very few backlashes. I run 6-30' leaders on the best majority of applications which makes my spool of fluoro last a long time. For the price conservative angler I think this is the best route...

 

On 9/27/2023 at 12:17 PM, Darth-Baiter said:

100%.

 

the braid when it even bites in a tiny bit will cause effen mayhem.  i have 40lb braid on a DC reel.  i can cast it as far as i can and everyonce in a while i can feel it start to go haywire..i can even see it.  sometime i jam on the thumb, and sometimes it starts to bojangles and seems to right itself and i can finish the cast.  with 20lb braid, i dont think i can cast it.  it is not in my wheelhouse of skillsets.

I run 20 lb braid on many of my baitcasters - most of the mid to higher end baitcasters have no problem with thin braids if spooled correctly. I have a bfs reel with 10# on it that has no problems as well.

[dodgeguy]

3 hours ago, flyfisher said:

It has been a while since I had a backlash but when i used to, braid would have a tendency to dig in and the larger diameter mono was easier to pick out.

You don't pick out braid. You jam your thumb on it and reel. Then you pull until it stops and repeat

[WRB]

51 minutes ago, dodgeguy said:

You don't pick out braid. You jam your thumb on it and reel. Then you pull until it stops and repeat

You do the same with any line type, sometimes it works.

A deep backlash rarely occurs with mono, more common with dry FC and braid. 

I learned to cast using braid back in the 50’s it was the only line available for casting reels. When mono came out and reels designed for it like the Ambassadors in the 60’s no more braid for me. 

When “super” braids came out in the 80’s the reels were not designed for the abrasive line and grooves were cut into guides and level winds until titanium nitrite or ceramics solved that problem.

Today the braid I will use is coated FINS braid in 65# for heavy cover frog fishing and 10# for finesse spinning with a leader and only as a last resort.

Tom 

[papajoe222]

On 4/24/2017 at 2:18 PM, Shak Muscles said:

However, even with smooth motions I still end up backlashing when I do overhead casts, and it is often mid cast even though I'm thumbing the spool and making it stop before it hits the water. Any tips on how to fix this?

Two things. Set your brakes halfway and stop trying to cast for distance.  The latter is the number one reason guys getting into baitcasters have problems with backlashing.  You'll find that the beginning of your cast is where the biggest problem lies and your brakes or magnets target the end of the cast, so set your tension a bit tighter. You'll get there sooner than you think.

[Glenn]

8 hours ago, JediAmoeba said:

On 9/25/2023 at 8:34 PM, Glenn said:

Braid is NOT an all-purpose line.

I have to disagree. I run braid as mainline on all of my rods and reels. Everything from 10-100 lb. I get years and years out of my braid and have very few backlashes. I run 6-30' leaders on the best majority of applications which makes my spool of fluoro last a long time. For the price conservative angler I think this is the best route...

 

Sorry man, but braid is not designed to be an all-purpose line.  For one, it's less abrasion-resistant than FC, especially around rocks.  Also, the lack of stretch in braid, while a plus for things like flipping and pitching, works against you for crankbaits, topwaters with treble hooks, and finesse tactics because the hooks are so small and thin.

 

I've talked to the folks at Seaguar, Sunline, and Berkley, and they all agreed while iterating FC is a better all-purpose line.

 

That said, there is no one-size-fits-all fishing line. Braid, FC, mono, and co-polymer all have their purposes and should be a part of your arsenal.

[Skunkmaster-k]

Last weekend I wasn’t getting the distance I usually do with my crankbait rod. Normally it’s like uncle Rico’s football , especially with a 3/8 Kastmaster. I was picking out backlashes and cussing my reel when it dawned on me. My line was rough. Long story short , I had wrapped the line around the rod between the 2nd and 3rd guide when I respooled a couple of weeks prior. 

[Darth-Baiter]

21 hours ago, JediAmoeba said:

I have to disagree. I run braid as mainline on all of my rods and reels. Everything from 10-100 lb. I get years and years out of my braid and have very few backlashes. I run 6-30' leaders on the best majority of applications which makes my spool of fluoro last a long time. For the price conservative angler I think this is the best route...

 

I run 20 lb braid on many of my baitcasters - most of the mid to higher end baitcasters have no problem with thin braids if spooled correctly. I have a bfs reel with 10# on it that has no problems as well.

I only feel confident talking about my own experiences.   I just havent had the same one as you.  

 

I often hear,  "if spooled correctly".  true.  but that is only the first instance for me.  after a day of casual pitching, casting, any spool I loaded up best I can, will be at any varying level of tautness throughout the day.    I sometimes pitch and do fine, then see a blow up behind me and turn and fling one only to get a mild backlash because the line has done wierd things while I was pitching.  I dont pinch and make sure the line is rolling up into my spool perfectly every time.  just me.

[JediAmoeba]

On 9/29/2023 at 12:32 PM, Darth-Baiter said:

I only feel confident talking about my own experiences.   I just havent had the same one as you.  

 

I often hear,  "if spooled correctly".  true.  but that is only the first instance for me.  after a day of casual pitching, casting, any spool I loaded up best I can, will be at any varying level of tautness throughout the day.    I sometimes pitch and do fine, then see a blow up behind me and turn and fling one only to get a mild backlash because the line has done wierd things while I was pitching.  I dont pinch and make sure the line is rolling up into my spool perfectly every time.  just me.

This happens but if the base is spooled properly and tight you can make a decent and lengthy cast and hold itntoght with your fingers and reel it back in...  I always have this problem when pitching into tight cover with thick braid because the reel engages at a different spot each time so the line can get funky to one side.

 

I run 20# braid to a leader on my jerkbait rods and small crank rods without issue.

On 9/28/2023 at 11:42 PM, Glenn said:

I've talked to the folks at Seaguar, Sunline, and Berkley, and they all agreed while iterating FC is a better all-purpose line.

 

That said, there is no one-size-fits-all fishing line. Braid, FC, mono, and co-polymer all have their purposes and should be a part of your arsenal.

I am surprised they would recommend fluoro over mono or copoly. Fluorocarbon has terrible knot strength if not done perfectly, which most noobs have trouble with. Also, I find myself having to replace fluoro leaders all the time since it stretches and gets nicked fairly often to the point it doesn't seem like the integrity is still there.