Metanium MGL constantly backlashing

[Stephen Selph]

So I've been having some issue with my new "to me" JDM reels. My handle literally fell of on my new JDM Antares DC somehow, and now my met MGL is now having issues with the centrifugal breaking system. It just started recently doing this, before I could cast a 1/4 oz lure fairly far even directly into the wind. Now it's acting up for some reason. Even with 3-4 of the brakes in the off position, and the little dial for micro-adjustments, it's still backlashing even when the spool tension knob is cranked down pretty tight. I have to have the tension knob so tight, that it hinders the retrieve. Besides sending it off to get fixed, are there any easy things I can do to troubleshoot this issue? Sometimes it will work fine, other times it's almost unusable. I love this reel, just want to get it back working normally again.

Thanks in advance for any tips to fix the issue everyone! 

[offsidewing]

What rods are they on, what line type, and what weight lures?  I also found on my Mets if I over fill the spool they basklash just looking at them.

[JustinJ]

I had this happen to me once with my tatula CT. Not sure what caused it but its never happened again. Overfilling the spool could definitely cause this as well

[kickerfish1]

Open up the side plate and check your settings. You can run that reel with 1 break off and the others on. Under the reel you have 6 setting on the dial. Start somewhere near the high end. Set your tension knob in a setting that doesn't allow any side to side play. So in summary there are 3 pieces that can be adjusted for this reel. I have never backlashed mine and I use mono on it and cast wind resistant baits like spinnerbaits and jigs. You can move the dial on the outside down to say 1 or so when you feel like things are going better.

[clh121787]

Trade it to me for 2 shimanos that work fine. Ci4 chronarch,  scorpion xto 1000 for the met mgl straight up

[fishnkamp]

Start by walking out all of your line. Check that the arbor knot is tight and can not slip. Now reel the line in under constant pressure so it winds on tight and smooth.

After that do all of what the others have said in order to set the reel up correctly.  Lastly pick a lure that weighs somewhere in the middle of the rod's suggested lure rating. Go fish. Find out if the problem goes away.  You may have to fine tune your reel's settings.

 

If all of that does not help send it to DVT for a tear down, inspection, full cleaning and lubing.  He will figure out if there is a mechanical issue or if it is something gummed up.  Either way it will come back better than new.  It will be working.

[Stephen Selph]

4 hours ago, offsidewing said:

What rods are they on, what line type, and what weight lures?  I also found on my Mets if I over fill the spool they basklash just looking at them.

It's on a Falcon Cara Finesse Jig rod, I had 15 pound Red Label on it, and it was just about any lure. I was mostly throwing texas rigged baby brush hogs with a 1/4oz tungsten weight. I'm starting to think it was overspooled for the reel. There was about 1/4 to 1/8th of the spool unfilled. I use KVD line and lure and never have trouble with red label as long as I use the L&L.

1 hour ago, kickerfish1 said:

Open up the side plate and check your settings. You can run that reel with 1 break off and the others on. Under the reel you have 6 setting on the dial. Start somewhere near the high end. Set your tension knob in a setting that doesn't allow any side to side play. So in summary there are 3 pieces that can be adjusted for this reel. I have never backlashed mine and I use mono on it and cast wind resistant baits like spinnerbaits and jigs. You can move the dial on the outside down to say 1 or so when you feel like things are going better.

Thanks for the tips, but I've done all of those things, and even with 3-4 break turned on, and the dial turned up to 6 and the spool tension knob, it was still backlashing constantly. When casting, most of the backlash starts at the beginning of the cast instead of the end. I'm starting to think it was overspooled, or maybe a bad batch of Seaguar Red Label?

1 hour ago, clh121787 said:

Trade it to me for 2 shimanos that work fine. Ci4 chronarch,  scorpion xto 1000 for the met mgl straight up

Not a chance, the reel will be buried with me, or given to one of my non existent children who don't put me in a home when I'm old and senile. lol But that's a nice offer, both great reels!

1 hour ago, fishnkamp said:

Start by walking out all of your line. Check that the arbor knot is tight and can not slip. Now reel the line in under constant pressure so it winds on tight and smooth.

After that do all of what the others have said in order to set the reel up correctly.  Lastly pick a lure that weighs somewhere in the middle of the rod's suggested lure rating. Go fish. Find out if the problem goes away.  You may have to fine tune your reel's settings.

 

If all of that does not help send it to DVT for a tear down, inspection, full cleaning and lubing.  He will figure out if there is a mechanical issue or if it is something gummed up.  Either way it will come back better than new.  It will be working.

I wasn't' using an arbor knot to tie my line on, I was using one of the sticky pieces of tape that come with the reel to hold the line on. They say to not tie the line through the holes in the spool for some reason. Something about how the reel is designed. I will go out tomorrow and give it another shot with everyone's suggestions, thank you!

Also do you know what DVT charges for that service if there's nothing that needs to be fixed? Maybe I used too much bantam oil or reel grease when lubing the reel. Just used a minimal amount whenever I clean them. 

Random question, where is the bantam oil supposed to go on the MGL? It said that I needed to put a drop of oil or two somewhere in the reel every 5 or so outings I believe to keep the noise down on the reel? My Japanese isn't the best, so I just placed a drop in all of the bearings I could find. Is it in the bearing underneath the spool tension knob?

[fishnkamp]

DVT is one of the fantastic board sponsors. He offers a discount to Bass Resources members I believe. Give his shop a call at ph: (973)459-2835.  You can click on the DVT logo on the right hand side of this page to get to his page.  Contact him to find out your info on repairs, cleanings and ask about the proper lubing practices.  Hehas been very helpful to lots of members here.

[Maico1]

They recommend a drop of oil on the " Brake Pipe "which is the brass ring that the brake blocks make contact with to brake the reel.....The other spot you are asking about is the bearing which is seated in the center of the brake pipe which pretty much houses it and the spool shaft rides on. Treat that bearing like you would any other clean and relube depending on your usage with only a drop oil.... 

[kickerfish1]

I haven't had to do any additional maintenance or oiling to my reel but follow Maico's advice if you do. Also if you have tried everything else I would say spool it up with new line and slightly underfill it. If that doesn't solve the issue send it to a shop for service and inspection. I have mine spooled with 12# Sunline mono and have never had an issue casting nor a backlash and my tension knob is set pretty lose. Another thing to keep in mind with running your spool tension knob tight like that is that the pads that rest inside the cap can wear prematurely resulting in less and less and even eventually no tension. When you press down on the thumb bar to disengage the spool does your bait drop like a rock or does it not even drop at all with the tension knob set that tight?

[fishballer06]

Not that having DVT go through it is a bad idea, but I wouldn't be surprised if this is an issue related to that Red Label fluorocarbon. Every time I've tried that stuff it's been nothing but nightmares. 

[Stephen Selph]

4 hours ago, fishballer06 said:

Not that having DVT go through it is a bad idea, but I wouldn't be surprised if this is an issue related to that Red Label fluorocarbon. Every time I've tried that stuff it's been nothing but nightmares. 

Ding ding ding! Turns out I had a bad batch of red label that I got from Walmart on clearance for $1. I just took the old line off and respooled with some new fireline I had laying around the house. It's working perfectly now! No amount of KVD L&L could help that spool of fluro! I will now only be used for leader material in the future. 

Thanks everyone for the help getting this figured out, it's back to casting like a dream now! Good call @fishballer06!

[fishballer06]

4 minutes ago, Stephen Selph said:

Ding ding ding! Turns out I had a bad batch of red label that I got from Walmart on clearance for $1.

 

The thing with fluorocarbon and mono is that it has a shelf life. It may look fine, but after a while it can get really bad memory and will give you all sorts of issues. 

 

The problem with buying from big box stores like a Wal-Mart, DSG, etc. is that you don't know how long that spool sat there on the shelf. It may look fine, but that line could be 5 years old. 

 

I use fluorocarbon on almost all my setups these days, but I buy my line from places that I know are constantly turning over stock and getting in fresh stock. Because of this, I have never really had any issues while using fluorocarbon. 

[TX-Deluxe]

Good