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Posted

Just skimming through all the responses I didn't see anyone mention that crankbait rods are what keep a crankbait fish hooked.

This is why the crankbait rod is quite a bit different action than most any other bass rods. A sweeping hookset is all that is necessary as the finer points of the smaller hooks generally don't need a swinging for the fence set. But what they do need is constant but forgiving pressure. I prefer mono line on mine as its been more than up to the task. I'm sure braid with a leader if that is what you prefer will give you more sensitivity and will work as long as the rod has that crankbait build in it.  

Quote

The Moderate to Slow action blanks are usually good for multi-hook (treble) lures such as crank baits, rattle baits and jerk baits. These fast moving fish finding baits work best with a soft tip action and the ability to throw the lure over long distances.
    These lures and presentations typically require less sensitivity and focus more on keeping the fish hooked. The wire diameter of the treble hook is typically thinner than a single hook and requires less pressure to set the hook. In addition, given that there are more hooks, there are more opportunities for a good hook set.
    The Slow tip will cause the blank to return to the at-rest position much more slowly than faster action blanks. With this characteristic, proper tension is much easier to maintain, keeping the hook engaged while the fish surges and lunges. The rod is much more adept at reacting to the fish's abrupt actions.

 

source https://www.bassresource.com/fishing/rod-actions-power.html

 

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  • Super User
Posted

Even with braid ya got stretch... Not in the line but your rod flexes!

 

When ya set hook ya must overcome line stretch & rod flex before the hook point is driven forward.

 

This is accomplished with speed & power; speed as in how soon ya detect the bite & start the hook set.

 

With crankbaits & spinnerbaits your rod & line is usually lighter contributing to "stretch". To overcome this I use a sideways sweep set moving more line.

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Posted
3 hours ago, J Francho said:

Not sure where you got that information from, but I'd ignore everything else from that source.  Braid with cranks can be done, but it's not something I prefer.  I use 12# Tatsu for most of my deep cranking.  I have line that is two seasons old, and it's just fine.  I'm currently testing a new mono from Seaguar called Rippin'.  So far, it's pretty good.  12# size line strikes a good balance between strength and diameter.  Too thick, and your bait doesn't get to depth.  Too thin, and you'll break off, or have issues in cover.

You've never heard or had any issues with it stretching after making long cast for a day or two? That's the only reason I was a little Leary of using Fluro but I'll just have to give it a try.  Say that #12 tatsu works pretty good for ya, I'll have to check it out and see if my lil tackle shops got any of that man :) 

Posted

Line stretch has been a factor for decades and many an angler still uses basically the same line he did back then. If you're loosing fish when then jump, learn to distinguish when they are coming up and drop your rod tip while reeling.  If you're loosing them on a long cast, a second hook set when you're in a good, or better position will insure getting that hook's point past the barb.  Lastly, you need to match your gear to the size hooks on your baits. A big single hook on a spinner bait or jig requires heavier line and a rod with some backbone vs. say a small crankbait with #6 trebles.

BTW, fluorocarbon lines do stretch, but quality ones stretch much less and transmit more information back to the angler, than mono, or copolymers. They generally have a higher test to line diameter also. 

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  • BassResource.com Administrator
Posted
14 hours ago, RippinLips57 said:

Hey everybody, I've saltwater fished all my life and I wanted to try somthin diffrent so I bought a little 16 foot Lowe and I just started learning where to look for them what to use and just starting to catch a couple of them, I'm just starting to figure them out but on an average I catch 2 bass a day but I hook around 4 not including those two I caught. How do I increase my catches? I'm not used to having to set the hook, offshore you just wait for them to bite and they do it all, you don't have to set the hook, so as soon as you feel a bump do you set it or do you wait a second and then set it. I normally hook them but they jump and spit it. Am I not setting it hard enough or setting it to quick or what, and normally I catch them on mid diving cranks so it's not just one hook like on a jig you'd figure that those trebles would stick and keep them on but I guess not lol. If you have any advice that will help me out tell me. Appreciate it :) 

 

RippinLips57 - you're on the right track. It's all about the hookset.  It's a common problem.  Here's how to solve it:

 

 

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Posted

I pinch the barbs on my trebles to make unhooking easier on the fish and me.  Don't fish tournaments so a jump off is no big deal. It's all for fun.  (I keep telling myself this) LOL

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  • Super User
Posted
12 hours ago, RippinLips57 said:

You've never heard or had any issues with it stretching after making long cast for a day or two? That's the only reason I was a little Leary of using Fluro but I'll just have to give it a try.  Say that #12 tatsu works pretty good for ya, I'll have to check it out and see if my lil tackle shops got any of that man :) 

 

No, not in the decade plus of trying different fluoro lines. If you get hung and yank until it breaks, yes, the end will get deformed.  Strip off a few yards, and retie.  Never happened from casting.  Get your hands on some KVD Line & Lure conditioner.  Spray on when spooling and after every trip.  The stuff keeps all lines in tip top shape.

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  • Super User
Posted

All lines have advantages and disadvantages  . I learned the nuisances of mono a long time ago .  So know how to set a hook and play a fish with it . Its not for everybody . Same thing with braid and floro users  . They learn their line . 

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  • Super User
Posted

I was bad at this when i started bass fishing. Setting the hook is a feel thing. When I set the hook on a single hook bait, I swing away as soon as I think the bait's in the fish's mouth. If it's a spinnerbait or other fast moving lure, usually a good swing of the rod will do. If it's a T rigged worm, or craw or a frog, I try to cross their eyes and keep them coming my way so they can't get off. Less time during the fight means fewer fish get off. Sometimes I skate them across the water. Higher speed reels can help with that as well.

 

As for trebles, I usually don't set it as hard, especially crankbaits. Sometimes with trebles you'll hook a fish, it'll jump, then when you see it again the hooks are in a different place. There are more hooks, but weaker leverage on your part and better on the fish's part. I take it a little easier with those and use mono line and more limber rods or at least a rod with some tip action. As stated above, put that rod tip in the water, but keep the same amount of pressure when you think he's gonna jump and you'll lose fewer. Good luck and keep trying. 

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