Kayakers: Lowrance CHIRP Settings?

[Dorado]

I fish out of my yak in waters that average 20-28 feet deep and hit 60 feet maximum when I'm targeting stripers. I own a Lowrance Hook 4x Mid/High.  Should my sounding settings be set on HIGH CHIRP (200 kHz) or MID. CHIRP (83 kHz) when I'm trying to locate schools of shad and feeding fish?

 

Also, since I do not obviously troll, should my PING speed be on 'slower' or 'normal'?

 

I am comfortable with my DownScan settings as I only utilize that screen for structure identification purposes.

 

I have the preset settings under "Shallow Fishing" mode. I keep sensitivity on 'auto', have noise rejection on 'off', and do not mess around with the water clarity option. I'm a beginner sonar user so I'm trying to hone in on the fundamentals first.

 

Thanks in advance!

[Dorado]

Shameless bump

[sarcazmo]

I dont have a lowrance but I have a garmin.

 

I use it in split freqauency most of the time.  It's my understanding that 200khz is a narrower cone that extends from your transducer so you're seeing more directly under the boat.  With the other frequency (mine is 77 I believe) it gives you a wider picture of what is around your boat.  So if I see a really strong return on my 200 side I know its closer to being directly under me, and having the other frequency allows me to see a wider picture under the boat.

Found this that should help:

•83/200kHz and CHIRP High/Medium

•200kHz and CHIRP High

•Cone Angle: 20°

•Coverage at 10’ depth: 4’

•Max Depth: 1,000’

•83kHz and CHIRP Medium

•Cone Angle: 35°

•Coverage at 10’ depth: 7’

•Max Depth: 1,000’

 

Hopefully getgs you in the ballpark

[Dorado]

38 minutes ago, sarcazmo said:

I dont have a lowrance but I have a garmin.

 

I use it in split freqauency most of the time.  It's my understanding that 200khz is a narrower cone that extends from your transducer so you're seeing more directly under the boat.  With the other frequency (mine is 77 I believe) it gives you a wider picture of what is around your boat.  So if I see a really strong return on my 200 side I know its closer to being directly under me, and having the other frequency allows me to see a wider picture under the boat.

Found this that should help:

•83/200kHz and CHIRP High/Medium

•200kHz and CHIRP High

•Cone Angle: 20°

•Coverage at 10’ depth: 4’

•Max Depth: 1,000’

•83kHz and CHIRP Medium

•Cone Angle: 35°

•Coverage at 10’ depth: 7’

•Max Depth: 1,000’

 

Hopefully getgs you in the ballpark

Thanks for this info. I sure do like #'s!

 

From what I'm gathering, HIGH CHIRP (200kHz) will provide greater detail by providing target separation, like a lunker hugging the bottom for example. Conversely, Medium CHIRP (83kHz), with the wider cone angle, will provide a stronger arch (fish)  and help distinguish schools of shad since it's capturing a 'bigger picture' in the return.

[RoLo]

For locating wads of baitfish, you'll get wider cone coverage with your 83kHz transducer setting,

which also provides adequate resolution. As you stated: I'd go with 'Mid Chirp' with the 83kHz transducer

and 'High Chirp' with 200kHz. It's best to avoid 'Custom Chirp' though which can be problematic with some units.

 

For sure, "Shallow Fishing" mode, but I'd use 'Max' ping-per-second in freshwater.

"Auto" sensitivity is a good idea, at least until you begin experimenting under different conditions.

"Noise Rejection" set to 'Off' is fine, but in certain situations

you might try "Low" noise rejection to eliminate excess noise.

 

Roger

 

[Dorado]

9 minutes ago, RoLo said:

For locating wads of baitfish, you'll get wider cone coverage with your 83kHz transducer setting,

which also provides adequate resolution. As you stated: I'd go with 'Mid Chirp' for 83kHz

and 'High Chirp' with 200kHz. It's best to avoid 'Custom Chirp' though which can be problematic with some units.

 

Definitely "Shallow Fishing" mode, but I'd use 'Max' ping per second in freshwater.

"Auto" sensitivity is a good idea, at least until you begin experiment under different conditions.

"Noise Rejection" set is 'Off' is fine, but in certain situations

you might try "Low" noise rejection to eliminate excess noise.

 

Roger

 

I'll have to experiment with it tonight, during simulation mode, and see if there's a way I can toggle the setting to BOTH High/Mid CHIRP. To clarify, is that what you're saying? Run it in dual mode?

[J Francho]

I use the wider cone 83 or mixed when searching or moving from spot to spot.  WHen I'm fishing a spot, especially vertically in deeper water, I use the narrow 200 beam.

[RoLo]

9 minutes ago, Dorado said:

I'll have to experiment with it tonight, during simulation mode, and see if there's a way I can toggle the setting to BOTH High/Mid CHIRP. To clarify, is that what you're saying? Run it in dual mode?

 

I'm not familiar with High/Mid Chirp, but was referring to either 'High' or 'Mid".

 

Roger

[Dorado]

1 minute ago, RoLo said:

 

I'm not familiar with High/Mid Chirp, but was referring to either 'High' or 'Mid".

 

Roger

Thanks for your input, Roger. Crystal clear now.

2 minutes ago, J Francho said:

I use the wider cone 83 or mixed when searching or moving from spot to spot.  WHen I'm fishing a spot, especially vertically in deeper water, I use the narrow 200 beam.

Perfect, thanks! It's starting to all come together now.

[J Francho]

You'll start to find yourself adjusting strength per water clarity and conditions.  Same with surface clutter.  I can't remember what Lowrance calls their "structure ID" for defining the bottom, but you'll want to see if that feature is there.

[Dorado]

5 minutes ago, J Francho said:

You'll start to find yourself adjusting strength per water clarity and conditions.  Same with surface clutter.  I can't remember what Lowrance calls their "structure ID" for defining the bottom, but you'll want to see if that feature is there.

I'm taking baby steps, but eventually will develop the skills to fine tune those detailed settings (surface clarity, sensitivity, etc). I need to learn how to walk, before I learn how to run. I don't think my Hook unit has that feature since it's on the lower-scale of Lowrance products.

[J Francho]

When you can get a chance, put it in demo mode, and work through all the settings with the manual.  Half of it won't stick (in my case more than half) but some of it will come back when you're on the water.