BASS fisherman Posted October 27, 2006 Posted October 27, 2006 With me getting a boat in the near future, I need a trailer hitch, and I need some help. Should I attempt to install the hitch myself while not having a clue as to how to install one, other than what I have read on the internet? Or should I have it done at a dealer? How complicated is installing a hitch for the average person not having much much knowledge on hitches? What is the average price for a decent hitch? With and without installation. The tow vehicle will be a 2000 GMC Savanah Van Thanks in advance for any advice. Quote
GeneinTX Posted October 27, 2006 Posted October 27, 2006 U haul will give you a good hitch for 129.00 installed here(in central TX). It is a class III receiver hitch. I bet they are the same price nation-wide. Just make sure the drop matches your trailer height. I pull with an F150 and my drop is 2 3/4 inch. Quote
Super User cart7t Posted October 27, 2006 Super User Posted October 27, 2006 You can do the U-haul thing or install it yourself. Most of the Reese or Hidden Hitch hitches out there usually bolt up to existing holes in the frame and the instructions aren't too difficult to follow. Quote
BASS fisherman Posted October 27, 2006 Author Posted October 27, 2006 U haul will give you a good hitch for 129.00 installed here(in central TX). It is a class III receiver hitch. I bet they are the same price nation-wide. Just make sure the drop matches your trailer height. I pull with an F150 and my drop is 2 3/4 inch. What is meant by "drop"? Quote
Super User SPEEDBEAD. Posted October 27, 2006 Super User Posted October 27, 2006 Drop is how far your hitch (ball) extends downward toward the ground. Some will come directly out of the receiver and attach to your trailer. This is rare. Typically, the tow vehicle's point of contact is higher or lower than where it will join with the trailer. If you used a straight hitch, your trailer would be angled nose-up or nose-down which could create some serious clearance problems for your trailer. As far as doing it yourself, not a big deal as long as the trailer you are getting doesnt have brakes. If it does, you will need a dealer to install a brake control device in your driver's area and wire the vehicle front to back. Definitely not something to be tackled by a novice. I used to work at an RV Dealership in Central PA, PM me with any other set-up/towing questions you might have. Wayne Quote
Super User SPEEDBEAD. Posted October 27, 2006 Super User Posted October 27, 2006 As a side note, Uhaul will probably be the cheapest installed hitch you will be able to find. Quote
BASS fisherman Posted October 27, 2006 Author Posted October 27, 2006 That's cool. I looked up the price on the uhaul site, and it said it would be $199.99. I figured alot more than that. I'd rather get it done right than try to do it myself and possible do it wrong. Plus it's easier to pay someone else to do it. Does anyone know if using a 1/2 ton Savanah cargo van would be safe? It does have an anti-sway bar or stabilizer bar installed on the van. The boat is a 16foot Hydro Sport bass boat. It's hull is made of kevlar and it's overall weight is supposedly heavy, but I am not sure what the boat and trailer weight is yet. Quote
Super User Way2slow Posted October 27, 2006 Super User Posted October 27, 2006 You have more than enough vehicle to tow that boat. I would recommend not towing in overdrive. On fairly level highways OD might be OK if you keep it under 70 but if you want to play it safe with your transmission, just make it a habbit not to tow in overdrive. As for DROP, that is determined by your trailer. You want the hitch so the trailer is towed fairly level Quote
Minuteman Posted October 27, 2006 Posted October 27, 2006 I would recommend not towing in overdrive. On fairly level highways OD might be OK if you keep it under 70 but if you want to play it safe with your transmission, just make it a habbit not to tow in overdrive. Definitely good advice. I boiled my trans fluid 3x because I didn't know that. Most of the lakes I hit require a lot of back road hilly driving and the thing was constantly shifting. I now got a much bigger and heavier boat and I haven't had a problem since I started driving in #3 instead of 0D. I also added an Aux. cooler too just for extra protection. (Jeep Cherokee inline 6 cyl) Quote
Siebert Outdoors Posted October 28, 2006 Posted October 28, 2006 I would recommend not towing in overdrive. On fairly level highways OD might be OK if you keep it under 70 but if you want to play it safe with your transmission, just make it a habbit not to tow in overdrive.Great advice, that is a big no no. I do have a tow package with a tranny cooler but I still dont tow in OD. As far as putting one in yourself, its simple on new vehicles. They have mounting holes and all you do is hold the hitch up and bolt it on. Extremely simple and easy. Just tighten the bolts good and put in the light bracket. Quote
fishbear Posted October 28, 2006 Posted October 28, 2006 If you read the owners manual for your vehicle it will have a towing section, and tell you what the manufacture reccomends for towing... I have a 2004 Ranger Edge, Ford made thier overdrive system come on when you start the vehicle, so you have to turn it OFF before driving.... and if you tow in overdrive, I hope you like to replace transmissions.... 2500-5000.00 at a time..... Quote
BASS fisherman Posted October 28, 2006 Author Posted October 28, 2006 If you read the owners manual for your vehicle it will have a towing section, and tell you what the manufacture reccomends for towing... I have a 2004 Ranger Edge, Ford made thier overdrive system come on when you start the vehicle, so you have to turn it OFF before driving.... and if you tow in overdrive, I hope you like to replace transmissions.... 2500-5000.00 at a time..... Great advice! I never thought of that, dah. I did think about emailing GMC and asking them if it'd be safe after I get the boat and know it's total weight. But with all the cutbacks they have been making in the past, I doubt they even have anyone to answer emails anymore. ;D The reason I asked about the tow vehichle is because I had heard from an old head fisherman that it would not be safe, but from a few others that it would be safe. I guess what it comes down to is looking in the van's manual for the info, and if it isn't listed there. Try towing the boat anyway at a slow speed gradually working up. So stay out of OD, and continually shift gears? 1st to 2nd etc... Or just put it in 3rd and go? The van is a cargo van used for hauling furniture, so the back-end is rather light. No backseats or anything. You guys are sure this is safe? Quote
fishbear Posted October 29, 2006 Posted October 29, 2006 You should have no problem just starting out in 3rd and going.... I would advise you to use the lowest possible gear when pulling up a ramp... just less slippage that way, and you will be under the heaviest load at that time..... Yes, if it is a cargo van, designed from the factory to be such, they are built a little heavier, because they expect them to have heavier payloads.. so you should be fine.... Plus you have the added bonus of being able to open the back doors when you are backing into the water or to the boat to hook up.... I have seen those vans pull up to a construction site, 6 guys crawl out, there is two bathtubs on top, they pull about 500 linear feet of pipe out of the thing,, then all the tools... Quote
Super User Way2slow Posted October 29, 2006 Super User Posted October 29, 2006 As for weight on the rear tires, how many pickups do you see pulling boats. That van is gong to have a lot more weight on the back tires than any pickup made. As for the tow weight of your boat, I would guess in the neighborhood of 2,500 - 2,700 lbs. As already stated, just put it in 3, don't try to make manual shifts. Don't try to use 1 when pulling the ramp. It's going to start off in 1 anyway. Manually selecting 1 will not make it pull any harder or make it any stronger. Quote
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