TLBassin Posted September 25, 2006 Posted September 25, 2006 YES YES, I know this is early for asking this question and I definately do not wanna be thinking about it, but I have too. Seeing how I am a college student and live 3 1/2 hours from home, I really do not have to much time to fish anymore, and especially since deer seasons in too. I am thinkin that I will take it out another time or too atleast before October is over though. Ok heres the question, how many of you winterize your boat yourself, or do you let the dealer do it. If you do it yourself what are the steps to doing it and how to you put her up for the winter. Also Ive herd both, leave the tank full of gas and leave it empty, I know that it will need stabilizer, but what is the best way to leave it? Thanks everybody!! Quote
Live.2.Fish Posted September 25, 2006 Posted September 25, 2006 I have an '83 17' bass tracker with a 50hp and all I do it fill up the tank, put some sta-bil in the gas, run it for a while and that is it. This past year, in the spring it started on the first crank after sitting for 5 months. It also depends on where you are storing it. I am lucky enough that my grandfather has an old warehouse that I get to use for storage for free and its also "heated" (kept at 40 degrees) so nothing freezes. Now if I had a lot new boat with a lot bigger price tag with a lot bigger motor then I would probably pay the fee to get it winterized. It seems like a small fee as compared to what your rig it worth. just my $0.02 Quote
Super User cart7t Posted September 25, 2006 Super User Posted September 25, 2006 Here's what I do. Fill the tank. Add stabil. I always add a little more than recommended. Run the engine for a few minutes to allow the stabil to thoroughly go through the system. Sometimes I'll add some Seafoam Decarb at this point too. After stopping the engine, I'll pull the plugs, shoot some fogging oil into each cylinder and crank the engine over a few times to get thorough coverage. Drain the lower unit and refill. For guys with water pressure lines running to a gauge on the dash, it's a good idea to remove the line and drain it. Store the engine in an upright position. Quote
bassnleo Posted September 25, 2006 Posted September 25, 2006 I take mine to a local marine shop and have them do it. They go over everything including trailer and bearings. It's good piece of mind for $70. Quote
NBR Posted September 25, 2006 Posted September 25, 2006 Drain and refill lower unit. Put Stabil in a full gas tank. Run engine to be sure the Stabil is throughout the fuel system. Spray fogging oil into the engine until the engine stalls. Sometimes mine won't stall so I just shut it down after I'm sure there is fogging oil through out the engine. Pull the plugs and squirt some fogging oil into each cylinder. Turn engine over a time or two. Replace plugs. Make sure all of the water is out of the boat and through hull fittings. (I had the livewell fitting freeze and crack one year then break while I was fishing and they sure fill with water fast). Check and refill battery water. Charge batteries and not a bad idea to recharge occasionally during the winter. Looks like a lot but I can do the job in less time than it takes to get the boat to and from the marine shop and I'm only about 10 miles. Quote
TLBassin Posted September 25, 2006 Author Posted September 25, 2006 How do you spray the fogging oil into the motor? and where can I get it at? Quote
what Posted September 25, 2006 Posted September 25, 2006 i usely can run my boat in the winter since i live in florida lol sry Quote
tipptruck1 Posted September 26, 2006 Posted September 26, 2006 Well I live in Wisconsin and I don't own a boat but by next winter I hope to. I have yet to hear of any one storeing the boat for the winter. The river never freezes over so were out in a blizzard fishing for walleyes. Quote
NBR Posted September 26, 2006 Posted September 26, 2006 You can get fogging oil at most if not all marine dealers. Spray it into the cylinders when you have the sparkplugs out. Also turn the motor over before you put the plugs back in the motor. Put either new or the old plugs back in for winter. Quote
TLBassin Posted September 26, 2006 Author Posted September 26, 2006 Thanks for all the help everybody. Two more questions. Do you replace the trim oil? and how to do check to see if all the water is out of the motor? I have a 96' 150 Johnson Fast Strike. Quote
DEISWERTH Posted September 26, 2006 Posted September 26, 2006 I have a jet motor, so I don't have to go through "all" the stuff.... but I start in the middle of October putting stabil in the fuel because I never know exactly when everything will freeze up and I can't go anymore. When I finally do winterize, I hook up the hose to the motor, with a special adaptor, start it with the aircleaner off and spray fogging spray into the intake until I stall it. Then I take the spark plugs out and spray fogging spray into the opennings. That's about it for the motor. Also make sure there is no water in your beilge/ aireator pumps. Mine always starts right up first time out in the spring. Any marine store sells fogging spray and you may be able to even get it at a place like walmart. Quote
timmyswetarded Posted September 26, 2006 Posted September 26, 2006 not trying to hijack the thread but i have a 1970 something johnson 20hp.....do i need to use fogging oil? (what does fogging oil do?)...the boat will be stored outside....do i need to let the motor run until it runs out of gas? i have never winterized a boat myself but i need to learn how to... Quote
Super User Way2slow Posted September 26, 2006 Super User Posted September 26, 2006 Make sure you store it with the motor trimed down, the motor has bleed holes all through it to keep any water from being able to puddle inside it, but it has to be trimed down, never store a boat with the motor trimed up. No, don't change the trim oil. Fogging oil is suppose to sprayed into the carbs with the motor running to properly coat all internal parts. Follow the directions on the can but normally you have to bring the motor up to approx 1500 rpm and start spraying. If more than three carbs, get two cans so you can keep a good stream going. Keep enough spraying to make the motor run extremely rough but keep it running. As the can/s get low, back the rpm down and load it up with fogging oil so it stalls the motor. Don't run it anymore until next spring, if you do, it will wash all the fogging oil you just spray in off all the internal parts you wanted to protect. The next time you use it, take a set of spark plugs with you. After running the motor on the lake for 5 - 10 minutes as medium - full rpm, change out your spark plugs. I might also add, if the boat is going to be stored indoors and not outside where it's subject to the extreme temp changes caused by solar warming during the day, I wouldn't bother with fogging the motor. Outdoor storage is where you have to be sure to everything possible to protect it. On a cold night and sunny day, you can pull the cover off the motor after a couple of hours in the sun and the motor will be soaking wet with condensation. Personally, if I wouldn't fill my tanks, I would do just the oppisite, I wouldn't leave anymore fuel in than totally necessary because the less old gas to have to deal with when getting ready to use the boat again the better. In the old metal tank days they filled them so the wouldn't develope internal condensation, but the plastic tanks don't have that problem. If the boat is going to be stored where it will be in temps below freezing, all drains and pump feeds to to be blown out with forced air or pour antifreeze in them. However, there's a bunch of other stuff I would do also but that's me. Quote
camofish Posted October 1, 2006 Posted October 1, 2006 wow, great info. thanks for the excellent wirte up. I normally winterize my tracker in mid-Nov. and I don't fog my engine last year. but want to this year. Thanks again, way2slow Quote
ThomasL Posted October 6, 2006 Posted October 6, 2006 Hate to drag this one back up but i have a question.When i took my boat in to have the old holes glass filled and new ones drilled for the new mercury i asked what about using my boat thru november early december and the lower unit.He said that unless a seal was leaking letting water in that the lower unit shouldn't freeze?I know my dad use to drain the lower unit oil each fall and put new oil in and spray the cylinders with wd40 and reinstall the plugs.Is the maintenance the same for a fourstroke engine? I really want to use the boat in later fall,i have a 1000 acre lake with not too many deep places except near the dam(45 feet) and the creek channels and the fish should be stacked up! Quote
Super User Way2slow Posted October 6, 2006 Super User Posted October 6, 2006 LU oil should be changed at least once a year, if heavily used, change it twice a year. During winterization is just a good time to do it. That's just so if it has developed a leak, the water is not left in it for a long period of time and cause the gears and bearings to rust and so it doesn't freeze during the winter and crack the gear case. I never winterize my Javeline because I use it year round but I still change my LU oil twice a year. Plus I also do periodic preventive maintenance on the boat, motor and trailer every six months. My other boats/motors I winterize because I seldom use them during the winter. Quote
fishbear Posted October 6, 2006 Posted October 6, 2006 I have owned a few gas powered boats, and I made the mistake once of listening to a technician about NOT draining the lower unit. Paid dearly for that one. I would never park the boat for the winter without draining and refilling the lower unit. Even if it going to be sitting for only a month or so in the winter, I will drain and refill. Better to be safe than sorry.... take it from someone who learned the hard way. Quote
TLBassin Posted October 20, 2006 Author Posted October 20, 2006 Could Marvel Mystery oil be substituted for fogging oil since it is a high quality oil that does the works on the engines? Quote
clooney Posted October 23, 2006 Posted October 23, 2006 I have read that you should keep the gas tanks full in the winter with stabil in it. This really isnt necessary then? Quote
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