Crank Bait depth ratings

[mas3]

Hello

 

Hope someone can help me with this question.

 

This year I intend to practice deeper cranking.

 

I have purchase a few deeper crank baits, and am puzzled with the depth ratings that can vary  from 12 to 16 foot.

 

Or 3 to 5 foot range.

 

I know it has to do with the line size you use, but does anyone have a rule of thumb as to how most lures are rated?

 

DT 10 is this using 10 lb line?

Fat Free Shad 7D  12 to 16 ft diving range is this also using 10Lb line?

 

Is there a rule of thumb to add or subtract depth depening on line size?

 

Currently using 12 Lb Mono

 

Any advice would be appreciated

 

Thanks everyone.

[corn-on-the-rob]

Like you said, those depth ranges depend on line size, retrieve speed, and length of cast as well. And rarely do these match up perfectly with the rating on the box.

 

In most cases, you typically want to be bumping bottom/cover with any depth crank, except for fishing suspended cases or ultra shallow runners at times. Therefore, instead of trying to match exactly, try to use a depth rating that is 1ft to 3ft deeper than the depth you expect to fish. In the case of making contact, a little extra depth is better than not enough.

 

Keep in mind, if you are fishing from a boat, your transom/trolling motor transducers are already about 1ft to 2ft underwater, so take that into account when estimating the depth you'll need for your favorite areas! Your 8ft area is probably closer to 10ft.

[mas3]

Thanks

 

This helps

[Felix77]

For what it's worth I use their rating as a general rule of thumb.  There are too many variables to consider ... line size, line type (mono v Fluoro), length of cast, speed of retrieve etc.

 

I have a solid setup which uses 12lb Fluoro with a 5x:1 reel and a 7' Cranking rod.   I tested each bait using the rating to see how deep I can go before I don't feel it hitting bottom.   After that you can sharpie that depth under the bill and you know for sure how each crank works for you.

 

Key was making sure it worked for me and my setup.

[fishballer06]

They all vary by how they're tested and by how much line is let out in order to reach that advertised depth. I've seen some lures advertised as 6-14' diving depth. If you cast them out, they don't dive deeper than about 7'. So in order to get that 14' depth, I'd have to assume they're letting out 3-400' of line trolling, using either light line (8lb?) or lead core trolling line, and/or putting on smaller/lighter hooks. I know a Shad Rap RS is advertised as 7-11'. This seems to hold true for me. I hit about 7-8' on a cast, and if I troll with a cast and a half worth of line out, I hit around 10-11'. 

 

The Rapala DT series is great because the name alone tells you what to expect from the depth. I fish the DT6 and DT10 extensively and I know what to expect whenever I throw those. The DT6 I usually get 6' exactly on depth, maybe 7' if I'm using lighter line or I'm able to get a longer cast with the help of the wind. The DT10 is where I can really play around with the depth depending on my setup. In general, it does dive 10 feet. If I throw it on 14-16lb. line, I'm going to get about 8-9 feet out of it. If I throw it on my Dobyns Champion 765CB with Sniper 12lb. fluoro, I can hit 12-13' if I drop the last foot of my rod tip into the water. 

 

Every bait is different and things like line size, hook size, how far you're casting (rod length can help that), can all change your diving depth a little. Do your research online and you'll probably quickly find what a certain lure will run. Or better yet, go fish it yourself and find out. 

[Paul Roberts]

If there is a "standard", it would be 10lb mono (.011"). This is the lightest lb test that will handle the widest range of "bass-sized" CB's. The thinner the diameter gives a deeper depth rating. But you should use what your waters and bass are requiring. In my heavily vegetated waters I'm most often using .013". (Also realize that line manufacturers lb test ratings will be all over the place. Diameter is what's important, and not just concerning depth control.)

 

Also, as mentioned, many CB manufacturers ratings aren't spot on. Seems that some have actually corrected theirs though, as in the Norman DD22 went from a 22ft depth rating to a more accurate 17ft. The range given for plugs (say, 8-14ft) was originally to cover cast and trolled depths, respectively. Decreasing line angle from rod tip can allow a bait to go deeper, so trolling, and long casts, as can -to a lesser extent- submerging the rod tip and using FC line, can affect maximum depth.

 

The only way to really know is to test them as you fish. Think speed control as well as depth control. So... fish a plug at the speed you deem correct for conditions, then test your plugs until you find one that isn't constantly hanging, or making no contact at all. If you have sonar, or a plumb-line, you then know a given lures depth.

[mas3]

Great responses everyone

 

Thanks very much!

[hoosierbass07]

Also, what's the deal with some manufacturers not putting the weight of the crankbaits on the packaging?  I'm talking about Strike King specifically.  

[Paul Roberts]

What's always got me is all the verbage/BS on the packages that say "bass can't resist!" or "Magic!" instead of stuff we can use, like: accurate depth ratings, weight, rate of rise, and fall rate. These should be first and foremost. Then turn the packaging over to the marketing staff.

[J Francho]

I don't treat stated ratings as gospel.  If the bait is not finding bottom, or it is digging too hard, I grab another bait.  After you fish enough baits, it gets a bit more intuitive.

[mas3]

Got it

 

Thanks!

[scaleface]

I use 12 lb test .Heres a few that I use . The Strike King 6xd works well down to about13 to  16 foot . 10 to 13 foot I use the Rapala CR14 Crankin Rap often. 8 to 10 foot Norman Deep Little N .  Shallower than that theres bunches of baits . 

[mas3]

thanks