Thinking of buying a 1986 Champion...Yay or Nay?

[bassin_man]

I have been looking for a boat for a while now and it seems like its either I can't find one I want or don't have the money for it.  I have come upon a 86' Champion that I am thinking about buying.  It is an 18' model fiberglass with a 175 on it.  Really just looking to get me off the land on a regular basis and start entering local tourny's, shouldn't have to worry about to big of waves since I am in Nebraska, so the 18' should suit me fine.  I could probably get it for around $1800-$2000(Is this price to high or just right?).  Has a trolling motor but no prop, and not much for other accessories.  It would be a wintertime project as it needs new carpet, new gel coat, new paint on the trailer, and electrical switches in the console fixed.  Guy said when he ran it last year it ran great, but didn't take it out this year.  Now for the bad...It sat outside in the elements for two years before the current owner got it.  Now how much do marines usually charge for compression checks and such?  Also whats the best way to check and make sure the transom and floor and still nice and solid?  I remember reading it but forgot.  Could the marine also check that out for me while getting the compression check?  Thanks and let me know if you think its a decent buy or not.

[cart7t]

Ya mean like this one? It's an '86 184DC.  These 86" hull Champs were some of the finest performing boats built.  The ride is unbelievable.

Unfortunately I'm not sure about this boat your looking at though. Any boat this age sitting outside exposed to the elements has possibly trashed the boat.  You're going to want to walk around in it feeling for soft spots in the floor.  A small soft spot is alright, easy enough to fix but a large one or the entire floor soft and you're in for trouble. I'd be really concerned about the integrity of the stringers at that point. Also check in the bilge compartment looking for any pieces of loose, rotten wood. If you see any it had to come from somewhere and that somewhere is usually up front in the floor or structural members.  As for the transom,  Check the top 2 engine mounting bolts in the splashwell, they should not be sunk in at all.  Lower the motor and have a friend get onto the cavitation plate of the engine and start putting his weight into it rocking the motor back and forth.  You should see no transom flex at all. You can also knock on the transom as well, it should sound solid, not hollow.  Unfortunately, the odds are good this boat probably has transom rot.  It's repairable but a lot of work.

You can have a marine dealer or surveyor (as they're called in some parts of the country) perform the same inspections. I'd expect him to charge at least $100 for a compression check plus other checks.

As for the price,  I gave $1200 for mine 2 years ago.  The motor on it was blown and in boxes.  I parted the thing out and put the motor on my old boat onto it.  $1800 - 2000 is about right if the thing doesn't have a soft floor and rotted transom and the motor checks out.

[bassin_man]

It looks similar to that one.  Doesn't have the rails, or dual console on it.  You definately have a nice looking boat there for its age. How is it as far as deck space and storage is?  I am really worried about the 2 years that it sat outside as it makes it very possible and almost expected to have caused some rot in either the floor or transom. :-[

[NBR]

In addition make sure the trailer has surge brakes. By the time you load it with tackle, and gas yout vehicle will need some help getting everything stopped. Was the boat covered when it was outside. Big difference in keeping water out.

Don't forget to add in the costs of depth sounders, water temperature, needed repairs and other items you will want. With the work you mention as needed it sounds a bit high.

[cart7t]

It looks similar to that one.  Doesn't have the rails, or dual console on it.  You definately have a nice looking boat there for its age. How is it as far as deck space and storage is?  I am really worried about the 2 years that it sat outside as it makes it very possible and almost expected to have caused some rot in either the floor or transom. :-[

Rear deck space is great. Front deck space, well, I'm adding an insert to not only add tackle storage between both rod boxes but it adds to deck space as well.  You've got 2 fair sized compartments behind driver and passenger seats, livewell inbetween those seats, 2 large rod lockers on both sides and a front livewell which I've converted to an icechest.

The problems with storing outside, uncovered, besides the obvious is you don't know if the guy bothered to tilt the boat up enough at the bow to even let water run out.  If water just sat in that thing I'd say it's toast.

[bassin_man]

Ya I am trying to get ahold of the guy to ask some specifics about that but I haven't been able to get ahold of him yet.

[cart7t]

Couple other things if you would end up looking more closely at it. Check the steering system, it should be fairly easy to turn, anything else and you'll to have to replace it.  Don't worry about any spiderweb cracking in the gelcoat either on the hull or gunwale surfaces, this is quite normal in all boats this age, or even newer for that matter.

This hull is a particularly sweet ride. With the 175 you should be able to run a 25p Trophy prop on it and turn respectable mid 60's easy.  The holeshot is nice and flat, mid range performance is outstanding.  The boat tracks true and is very easy to drive.  Oh, and the rough water ride is outstanding.  If you wind up getting it give me a holler anytime and I'll try and help with whatever I can.

[bassin_man]

I was able to get some pictures of the boat. I know you probably can't tell much from them but then again I may be wrong. I do have more pictures but these are the ones I decided to post up. It does look like the motor either leaks, or had an spillage/overflow problem.

[cart7t]

Hmmm.. tough to tell. Just the one photo of the splashwell doesn't show any ominous indications right off the bat.  They're using a stress plate for the top engine bolts but if the transoms bad even those will sink in a little. I also see no stress cracks in the corners either.

I can't tell much else from the photos other than it's an older Merc V6, the carpet needs replacement and the finish is either completely shot or very badly oxidized at the very least. If you can feel the metal flake when you rub your hand over the surface of the boat the gelcoat is gone.  Not a really big deal nor is the carpet.  

Walk completely around on the floor.  If there's soft spots around the floor drain or a pedestal mount that's not unusual and can be repaired fairly easily. If the floor is soft all over you've got problems.  Don't forget to pull that boat out of that garage, have the owner get up on the doelfin on the motor and put his weight into it up and down while you observe the transom.  There should be no visible flexing of the transom. Any flexing and you've got a rotted or waterlogged one.

The engine needs a compression check and preferably to be run on the water.  If you can't do the on the water test, have him start the engine with the cowling off and look for any leaking.  Look for a fairly strong stream of water from the water outlet. I realize it won't be real strong if you're running on the muffs.   That year Champion used a plastic gas tank so the worst you may have is some badly gummed up gas and fuel system on the motor.  If you buy it you'll want to drain that tank and replace the fuel line and bulb.

The prop looks like a higher pitched prop, sort of like an old Hooter style.  With the doelfin on there I'm betting he's running a big pitch on that thing for speed and was having trouble with the holeshot.

Champion trailers of that vintage were pretty stout. Check the very back crossmember though right under the rear roller and look for any cracks.  Also check the inner, carpeted fender wells, those had a habit of rotting out.  Check the winch for ease of usage and the winch strap. The trailer dolley on that thing may be shot if it's original.  Also check the coupler. Those old Champion yoke-over couplers were famous for getting really difficult to operate. A new one will cost you around $150 installed.

I can't think of anything else right now. Post more pix if you get the chance and tell us how the floor, engine and transom check out.  Honestly, it doesn't look as bad a shape as I thought.  That's that really nice Steel bluish cap with the grey hull. Nice color scheme.  

[cart7t]

One other thing I forgot to tell you about. Check the front control panel where the TM plugs in that also has all the switches on it.  The plastic mounting bracket surrounding the actual brushed aluminum plate that has all the stuff mounted on it was VERY susceptable to get brittle.  I wouldn't be surprised if that one is just hanging together by sheer will.  ;D  You can't get those anymore so you'll have to afro-engineer a replacement.

[bassin_man]

Well the good news is that I was told the boat was covered when stored outside. I am working on setting up a time within the next few days to go take a look.

Couple more pictures and yes cart7 the fender wells had rotted away like you said.

[cart7t]

From the last photo of the front deck you may have some gel coat left to work with as far as the finish. I'd definitely invest in having that engine taken to a marine mechanic for a go over.  If you can get that thing for under $2000 you'll get a nice boat if the floor, engine and transom check out.

Here's just a couple approx. costs.

Carpet - $200 - 220.

Trailer - $100 (replace the bunk boards and those fender well liners!)

Tires and hubs - Depends on the condition. New Goodyear Marathons go for $100 apiece, hubs for around $45 apiece.

Switches and gauges - I can tell you from experience, the switches and circuit breakers will probably need to be replaced, hopefully the gauges are all ok - $50

Engine - $500 approx. (have the thing tuned up, water pump changed, fuel system cleaned out.)

Steering - If this is old, if it's stiff or you're just unsure of it I'd strongly suggest changing it. A new Teleflex dual cable NFB system will run you around $350.

Deck refinish - If the gel is still there I'd put your costs at under $50, if it's shot I'll go with $100.

Trolling motor - That is an OLD Minn kota.  You can pick up a new MK Edge series 70lb for around $530 at Cabela's or look around on the fishing forums this winter for a used one for less.

Batteries - You'll need to replace them if they're not new.  $200 for 3 at Wally World.

Bilge pump - I'd replace it if it's old with an Automatic unit. $50-70

That's around $2k in additional investment to get the boat completely up to snuff.  If you buy the thing for $2000 that's $4000 total.  You could easily turn that boat around and sell it for that price.  That was one of the more attractive color schemes of that vintage Champions.