83 Tracker fix'r'up

[G3 Fan]

  I am in the building industry and we had to sit through a lot of training a few years back when CCA was being phased out. We had to change our inventory of fastners etc. One of the classes I went to was at Simpson Strong Tie they make most of the fasteners used in residential construction. This link will take you to a page talking about barriers to use between framing material and fasteners http://www.strongtie.com/productuse/barriersfaqs_print.html.

  The one thing I don't know is chemistry, The treated wood is so corrosive because of high levels of copper which is a non-ferrous metal. Alumninum is also a non-ferrous metal I don't know if two non-ferrous metals will "play nice" with eachother. In my industry a lot of flashing metal is made of aluminum and we have been told to use copper or vinyl if the flashing will be in contact with treated wood. That beinf said the aluminum used for flashing is very thin.

  I will try to ask some of our suppliers to see if they can shed more light on this, I'll also check out the web.

  This link is to a general article about wood preservatives http://www.taunton.com/finehomebuilding/pages/h00127.asp

This link discusses the corrosive nature of treated and how to protect fasteners http://www.toolbase.org/tertiaryT.asp?DocumentID=4029&CategoryID=1869

 Here is a clip from that last website in regards to painting steel

Impermeable covering. Covering steel with an impermeable coating, such as paint, can provide a mechanical barrier between steel and corrosive agents. However, this method is vulnerable to imperfections in the coating and is not recommended for long-term outdoor exposure of structural connections.

Like I said earlier everything I find refers to steel. I'll keep looking

 

[G3 Fan]

Dobi,

 I found this site, the brown box on the right quotes the International Residential Code http://www.raisedfloorliving.com/ptwproducts.shtml. Here is a quote from the IRC where it mentions aluminum.

 Do not use standard carbon-steel or aluminum products in direct contact with pressure-treated wood. In addition, electroplated galvanized metal products generally have a thinner layer of protection compared to hot-dip galvanized and are typically not accepted by the building codes for use in exterior applications. Spacers or other physical barriers are necessary to prevent direct contact from treated wood when aluminum or electroplated products are used, such as flashing or termite shields. Such barriers should provide complete separation and remain intact for the intended service life of the metal.

  After reading this it dawned on me that maybe we are over-thinking this. What if you cover the top of your aluminum frame and anywhere else the plywood would come into contact with aluminum with something like that sound stop stuff they use in cars? I don't know for sure wat the name is but it is a few MM thick and has an adhesive back. They sell it at car stereo shops you could cut it into thin strips. I'm surethere are other products that would work as well, I think having an adhesive back would make installation easier.

  As long as you use stainless steel hardware you should be good to go.

  Another benefit the barrier would provide would be to eliminate any squeaks between the plywood and frame.

[G3 Fan]

Dobi,

 I found one more site http://www.wolmanizedwood.com/fasteners.shtml

Recommended Hardware

Hot-dipped galvanized fasteners (meeting ASTM A 153) and connectors (ASTM A 653 Class G185 sheet), or better, are recommended for protection against the moisture often present where treated wood is usually used. For Permanent Wood Foundations, use 304 or 316 stainless steel. Aluminum should not be used in direct contact with this wood.*

For indoor applications, while galvanized fasteners are preferable, the use of non-galvanized nails or screws of sizes and types approved by the Model Code is acceptable when attaching joists, studs, or other framing to Wolmanized® sill plate, provided the wood will remain dry in service, protected from weather and water. Likewise, the use of standard galvanized strapping, anchor plates, or mild steel anchor bolts ½ diameter and larger is acceptable for fastening Wolmanized wood to foundations, provided that the wood will remain dry in service, protected from the weather and water.

  *Aluminum can be used when a protective barrier prevents direct contact between the aluminum and the wood. Direct contact, in the presence of moisture, will create a galvanic corrosion cell between the materials. The barrier may be heavy plastic sheeting, rubber, vinyl, asphalt roofing paper, or even a good industrial coating. The barrier should provide complete separation and remain intact for the period of service of the aluminum.

Additional information on the corrosion of fasteners and connectors used with alternative preservative treated wood.

Hardware manufacturers

[Travlin_Man]

G-3 is right on with the p.t. corrosion info. I am a contractor and  ICC certified  Commercial Building Inspector. Be glad for the forum saving you from a lot of future grief.

[Dobi]

Thanks!!

That seems to be proof there. Please don't think I was doubting you. You just get so much conflicting information here on the net and through word of mouth. I'm using stainless L brackets and hinges for everything. I've already put 1 good coat of primer/sealer on the deck, I'll put a couple more as the night goes on. I'm mocking up the frame now. I'll have some pictures to post tonight.

[G3 Fan]

I never felt you were doubting me and I am glad to help in any way I can.

Can't wait to see the next batch of pictures.

[Dobi]

[langs15]

This looks REALLY nice!!! My friends dad used to have boat like this, he had carpet on the raised parts. Good lcuk with the rest!!!

[Dobi]

This is still all mocking up...

I also added some extra supports as seen in red.

I haven't read everything yet.. I'm still researching if I cover all the wood with that oil based kilz primer/paint, will stop chemicals in the pressure treated wood.

G3fan - Do you know off the top of your head?

[Travlin_Man]

Please read the part about " protective barrier" . Looking at the pictures of all your hard  and apparently careful work , it seems that the p.t. 2x4's are making direct contact with the aluminum sides and bottom in several places.

[abelfisher]

Great project.  keep up the good work and keeep the picturs coming.  You might want to plan ahead for wiring etc by using plastice conduit so it is easy to access and pull wires in the future.  The stuff is cheap and light.  Will the heads of the screws you've used intefere with being able to lay the platform  plywood sheets down flat?  Maybe use some beveled heads??  Great project. Please keep the pictures coming.

[Dobi]

Its starting to come together now...

[G3 Fan]

Dobi,

Sorry I didn't get back to you soon enough, I see you went ahead and painted the under carriage. I think you will be protected, if you are going to store the boat outside I would put a mooring cover on it to try and help keep it dry.

  Keep up the good work

[Dobi]

yea, it will be stored outside, I found a nice cover for about $45 at walmart and I've got tons of bungee cords for holding it down...

I was running into support issues for the rodbox and the ability to support my 270 pound body. I ended up putting 2 sheets of plywood together and having it lay on the deck. but it looks good and I know weight will definately not be an issue.

I've got a 420x420 fishfinder for the frong and a 320x320 for the back.

[Dobi]

Well, I can officially say that my carpetting skills are less then stellar, but the front deck is definately sturdy I like it alot. I just have to put the seat pole in and wire electronics now.

I cut down the old steering column to fit my needs and raised it up just where I wanted it. Before I secure it though, I need to know how how to get the steering cable loose, either from the steering wheel or from the motor so I can run that pain in the *** thick cable thru the front deck where the column is and then under the back deck... I'll be google'n that tonight I reckon.

Here's some pics of it coming together.

This is definately a project. I was not planning on taking this long, I screwed up and took it to a buddies house that is a carpenter but he was never around to unlock his shop so I hadn't gotten much done. I hope to have it completed by the end of the week now though.

[langs15]

very nice!!!!!

[Dobi]

Thinking about putting this up for sale, what do ya'll think would be a fair price?

It's got a small leak from worn out rivets (turn on the bilge for about 2-3 minutes every hour or whenever I move to another spot)

2 LCR's (1 bottom line 5" & 1 4" eagle)

50lb 12/24 motorguide trolling motor

50hp force motor (cranks EVERY time)

2 batteries (1 can't remember brand deep cycle & 1 blue top optima)

I was thinking $3k obo

[trackernoleak]

I was thinking about doing something similar to what you did.

But I was going to have my rod locker down the center so I can leave the two front flotation foams in place.  I would have 6 2" pvc pipes to hold the rods and keep things from getting tangled, and an access door next to the console.  That will give me ample storage up front  on either side and a huge front deck.

I really liked the look of the console when you had it covered with carpet, looked real sharp.  I think I will incorporate that into my design as well.

Thanks for the idea.

[h2oMonkey]

HI i was just wondering if you had any extra Pics of the interior. Im intersted in how you did the sides close to the console. thanks