FordsnFishin Posted March 3, 2017 Posted March 3, 2017 Just curious what your guys routine procedures are for loading/unloading your boat. Do you use 4x4? Your parking brake? Any little tips that help you get on and off the ramp faster? The less cluster the better. We already have to deal with ignorant pleasure boaters and what not. Quote
Elkins45 Posted March 4, 2017 Posted March 4, 2017 My boat launching experience for the last 15 years has been a big, light Jon on a mismatched double axle trailer that was probably intended for a MUCH heavier boat. It sits very high, requiring me to back way far into the water. On a shallow ramp it would probably flood the cab. What I do is tie a bow rope to the winch riser, then drive backwards very fast, "sling" it off the trailer with inertia then pull forward as gently as I can and grab the rope before it gets taut. Getting it back on usually involves getting wet, often involuntarily. I really need a different trailer. 2 Quote
Bass Turd Posted March 4, 2017 Posted March 4, 2017 33 minutes ago, Elkins45 said: My boat launching experience for the last 15 years has been a big, light Jon on a mismatched double axle trailer that was probably intended for a MUCH heavier boat. It sits very high, requiring me to back way far into the water. On a shallow ramp it would probably flood the cab. What I do is tie a bow rope to the winch riser, then drive backwards very fast, "sling" it off the trailer with inertia then pull forward as gently as I can and grab the rope before it gets taut. Getting it back on usually involves getting wet, often involuntarily. I really need a different trailer. You should have someone film this. Please...? 5 Quote
BassnChris Posted March 4, 2017 Posted March 4, 2017 1 hour ago, Bass Turd said: You should have someone film this. Please...? Pretty please? ? Quote
Super User WRB Posted March 4, 2017 Super User Posted March 4, 2017 Depends on the boat and trailer, your avatar looks like a kayak. My boat is a bass boat and trailer with carpet bunks that I load or unload by driving on and off with a partner. Alone I back down next to a dock and drive on or off. Tom 1 Quote
lo n slo Posted March 7, 2017 Posted March 7, 2017 On March 4, 2017 at 3:25 PM, Elkins45 said: My boat launching experience for the last 15 years has been a big, light Jon on a mismatched double axle trailer that was probably intended for a MUCH heavier boat. It sits very high, requiring me to back way far into the water. On a shallow ramp it would probably flood the cab. What I do is tie a bow rope to the winch riser, then drive backwards very fast, "sling" it off the trailer with inertia then pull forward as gently as I can and grab the rope before it gets taut. Getting it back on usually involves getting wet, often involuntarily. I really need a different trailer. git r done Elkins 1 Quote
Super User Fishing Rhino Posted March 7, 2017 Super User Posted March 7, 2017 Torque lock. That's what can happen when you use park to keep your car from rolling down a hill. Every owner's manual I've read tells you to set your parking brake, then put it in park. Don't use the parking brake first, and you may find you cannot turn the key because of torque lock. Torque Lock Buick Rainier / Buick Rainier Owners Manual / Features and Controls / Starting and Operating Your Vehicle / Shifting Into Park (P) / Torque Lock If you are parking on a hill and you do not shift your transmission into PARK (P) properly, the weight of the vehicle may put too much force on the parking pawl in the transmission. You may find it difficult to pull the shift lever out of PARK (P). This is called “torque lock.” To prevent torque lock, set the parking brake and then shift into PARK (P) properly before you leave the driver’s seat. When you are ready to drive, move the shift lever out of PARK (P) before you release the parking brake. If torque lock does occur, you may need to have another vehicle push yours a little uphill to take some of the pressure from the parking pawl in the transmission, so you can pull the shift lever out of PARK (P). Sounds like you need a different trailer. Quote
Global Moderator Bluebasser86 Posted March 7, 2017 Global Moderator Posted March 7, 2017 Make sure to have everything ready and unhooked when you get on the ramp, nothing more frustrating than the guy blocking a lane of the ramp while he's getting everything ready to put it in the water. I launch by myself alot, so I just leave the front strap on and back in far enough to be able to get the boat off the trailer. I set the brake and tie up to the dock while I park the boat. There's a good video that Glenn did about launching a boat. I took the suggestion to put the truck in neutral to back down the ramp and it really does make it easier to let the boat pull you down the ramp instead of pushing it down the ramp. https://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-videos/backing-a-trailer.html 5 Quote
XpressJeff Posted March 8, 2017 Posted March 8, 2017 I don't want to hijack the topic, but I know that some of you are no longer spring chickens either. I have had 3 knee replacements and a back surgery. Sometimes I am a little slow and some launches are not conducive to us limited mobility guys! Any special adaptations you've made! Quote
Super User Fishing Rhino Posted March 10, 2017 Super User Posted March 10, 2017 On 3/8/2017 at 10:02 AM, XpressJeff said: I don't want to hijack the topic, but I know that some of you are no longer spring chickens either. I have had 3 knee replacements and a back surgery. Sometimes I am a little slow and some launches are not conducive to us limited mobility guys! Any special adaptations you've made! I'm 75, and have no problem launching or loading. Having said that, I don't have a problem climbing into or out of my boat. When alone, I launch using a rope attached to the bow eye of the boat and the winch stand. Back the boat slowly until it can float without any weight or very little weight on the trailer. Pull the trailer out from under the boat, and clear of the water. Then pull the boat onto the beach or ramp (I have a keel guard to protect the hull from concrete). Disconnect from the winch stand and tie the boat to a tree, post, etc. Park the truck get into the boat and go fishing To load, tie the boat to anything that will keep it from drifting away. Back the trailer in until two or three inches of the front edge of the fenders are above the water. This varies with the pitch of the ramp. That leaves the winch stand just above where the water meets the land. Start the boat up and drive it onto the trailer. If you can power load it, do so. If rules/laws prevent it, just drive the boat onto the trailer so it will stay there. Climb down onto the trailer then the ground and finish loading with the winch. If you have trouble getting into or out of the boat, get a small folding stepstool. Open it and use it to get on the boat. Tie a short piece of line to haul it onto the boat. Reverse the process when loading the boat. Look into the bolt on step and grab post to facilitate climbing off the boat once it's on the trailer. Life is a series of adjustments and compromises. Quote
XpressJeff Posted March 10, 2017 Posted March 10, 2017 Thanks Tom, the stepson is an idea I will try. I have seen those steps that bolt on the trailer but they seemed a little proud of them. That's not ruled out though! Thanks for responding Sir! Quote
BrianSnat Posted March 10, 2017 Posted March 10, 2017 I have a Toyota Rav4 and a 14 ft aluminum V hull with a 9.9 Yamaha on the back. It's a pretty heavy boat for its size, probably thanks to the marine plywood floor a previous owner installed. It's pretty easy to launch. I make sure I have everything ready to go away from the ramp so when I launch it is a quick process. The actual process is little differen than what I see most people do. The only time I have trouble is on particularly shallow ramps where I may have to push the boat off the trailer. It's pretty heavy as I mentioned. Quote
Troy85 Posted March 10, 2017 Posted March 10, 2017 If the ramp is wide enough for two boats to launch at the same time, don't back right down the middle of the ramp. Quote
Cranjus McBasketball Posted March 10, 2017 Posted March 10, 2017 13 minutes ago, Troy1985s said: If the ramp is wide enough for two boats to launch at the same time, don't back right down the middle of the ramp. True statement. I don't mind waiting my turn, but taking up both lanes just makes me want to punch babies. (not literally of course) Quote
DINK WHISPERER Posted March 12, 2017 Posted March 12, 2017 When alone i unhook everything before getting to the ramp. Back down slowly to the water then proceed to slam the breaks. When she floats back proceed to lower the power poles. Go park the truck and then enjoy fishing! Quote
S. Sass Posted March 12, 2017 Posted March 12, 2017 On 3/10/2017 at 7:50 AM, Troy1985s said: If the ramp is wide enough for two boats to launch at the same time, don't back right down the middle of the ramp. That is why they bother putting stripes on roads with more than one lane. OP I do drive a Z71 4x4 but its in 2wd 90% of the time and never needed it at the ramp yet. It's always better to have it and not need it than to not have it and need it imho. And yes I always set the E brake before I get out of the truck on any ramp. YouTube has way too many trucks that ended up in the lake I don't want mine there. This is how I load /unload my 18ft on my own. Once arriving at the lake before ever getting on a ramp I do everything that can possibly be done. My phone, wallet, hat, tackle, cooler, etc is all onboard before hand. Both buckles are removed, the transom saver is taken off, unlock all lockers (easier to me done here than later), instal the drain plug. Then to the front of the boat. I remove the winch strap and attach a long rope to the boat. I tie off the excess in the bed of the truck in a manner it can peel off more rope if necessary as the boat drifts free of the trailer. I then unplug my trailer lights. I had a incident once where I blew the trailer light fuse while at the lake. Since unplugging them before entering the water I have never had it happen again. Our lake is usually not a issue with other boaters but once I commit to the ramp I try to run my plan smooth and efficiently. My boat comes free from the trailer just about the time my trailer fenders go under. My boat comes off pretty easy as I have pushed it off many times as it didn't quite drift free. Once it clears the guides on the back of the trailer I untie from the truck and just pull the boat over to the side of the ramp. Gently try and get it lightly stuck where it will sit long enough I can park the truck roughly 2 minutes away as our parking is right beside the ramp. Our ramp I use doesn't have anything to tie off to so I just be very careful and leave plenty of rope so that if it somewhat drifts I can still grab the rope when I get back from parking. Pretty much do everything in reverse to load it as I did to unload it. If it's calm I have shoved the boat out far enough I pulled it over and back into the guides of the trailer and pulled it on far enough I hooked the winch strap and finished loading it, But I have also drove it back on. I think it was almost as fast just pulling it on the trailer with the rope. But if there is any wind it ain't happening. 1 Quote
Super User Fishing Rhino Posted March 12, 2017 Super User Posted March 12, 2017 49 minutes ago, S. Sass said: That is why they bother putting stripes on roads with more than one lane. OP I do drive a Z71 4x4 but its in 2wd 90% of the time and never needed it at the ramp yet. It's always better to have it and not need it than to not have it and need it imho. And yes I always set the E brake before I get out of the truck on any ramp. YouTube has way too many trucks that ended up in the lake I don't want mine there. This is how I load /unload my 18ft on my own. Once arriving at the lake before ever getting on a ramp I do everything that can possibly be done. My phone, wallet, hat, tackle, cooler, etc is all onboard before hand. Both buckles are removed, the transom saver is taken off, unlock all lockers (easier to me done here than later), instal the drain plug. Then to the front of the boat. I remove the winch strap and attach a long rope to the boat. I tie off the excess in the bed of the truck in a manner it can peel off more rope if necessary as the boat drifts free of the trailer. I then unplug my trailer lights. I had a incident once where I blew the trailer light fuse while at the lake. Since unplugging them before entering the water I have never had it happen again. Our lake is usually not a issue with other boaters but once I commit to the ramp I try to run my plan smooth and efficiently. My boat comes free from the trailer just about the time my trailer fenders go under. My boat comes off pretty easy as I have pushed it off many times as it didn't quite drift free. Once it clears the guides on the back of the trailer I untie from the truck and just pull the boat over to the side of the ramp. Gently try and get it lightly stuck where it will sit long enough I can park the truck roughly 2 minutes away as our parking is right beside the ramp. Our ramp I use doesn't have anything to tie off to so I just be very careful and leave plenty of rope so that if it somewhat drifts I can still grab the rope when I get back from parking. Pretty much do everything in reverse to load it as I did to unload it. If it's calm I have shoved the boat out far enough I pulled it over and back into the guides of the trailer and pulled it on far enough I hooked the winch strap and finished loading it, But I have also drove it back on. I think it was almost as fast just pulling it on the trailer with the rope. But if there is any wind it ain't happening. Unplugging the lights may be fine, unless, the reverse lock out for the breaks is part of that electrical system. On hard ramps, it's not a problem, but in some places where I launch the ramps have sandy gravel bottom with soft spots in the bottom. Unless the reverse lock out is activated, either electronically, or mechanically, you may find those soft spots will provide enough resistance to apply the brakes. I may be wrong, but if you blow lights when launching, there is a problem that needs to be found, and corrected/repaired. It's only a matter of time before that problem manifests itself even when the power is disconnected before launching. Quote
S. Sass Posted March 12, 2017 Posted March 12, 2017 9 hours ago, Fishing Rhino said: I may be wrong, but if you blow lights when launching, there is a problem that needs to be found, and corrected/repaired. I may have already solved it as I did rewire both tail lights and a section of the trailer wiring I replaced after the incident. However as a precaution I unplug the lights on the trailer before going on the ramp and plug them in as I snug up the boat for travel. My trailer is a single axle and has no brakes to deal with. Also most all my boat ramps are solid concrete way farther than my light weight aluminum boat needs backed in. Quote
Jaderose Posted March 12, 2017 Posted March 12, 2017 Ok....anyone do this with a manual transmission? I have a 1968 Ford F100 that I want to use to pull my 16 ft Jon boat but haven't done it yet because I'm afraid it will be "too Exciting". Any pointers? Quote
Super User Fishing Rhino Posted March 12, 2017 Super User Posted March 12, 2017 It's only as exciting as you make it. Unless you have a lot of ballast in your jon boat, your truck should tow it, and stop it with ease. Having said that careless and negligent operation voids the above statement. Have the brakes on your truck checked, and make sure everything else is in good working order, particularly the lights which include the brake and signal lights on the trailer. Quote
Troy85 Posted March 13, 2017 Posted March 13, 2017 I used to have a manual transmission. The way I did was when I was ready to pull forward off the ramp, put the truck into gear but leave the E-Brake on. Give the engine a little throttle and let the clutch out slowly until you feel the transmission starting to engage, you will feel the truck trying to overpower the E-Break. When you feel that, just release break and you should pull right out of the water. 1 Quote
DubyaDee Posted March 13, 2017 Posted March 13, 2017 On 3/4/2017 at 3:25 PM, Elkins45 said: My boat launching experience for the last 15 years has been a big, light Jon on a mismatched double axle trailer that was probably intended for a MUCH heavier boat. It sits very high, requiring me to back way far into the water. On a shallow ramp it would probably flood the cab. What I do is tie a bow rope to the winch riser, then drive backwards very fast, "sling" it off the trailer with inertia then pull forward as gently as I can and grab the rope before it gets taut. Getting it back on usually involves getting wet, often involuntarily. I really need a different trailer. You can usually buy lower braces. I have a trailer that use to sit really high until I bought the correct size bunk braces. It should make life much easier for you! Quote
Sokyfishing Posted March 14, 2017 Posted March 14, 2017 One quick tip. As you approach the ramp, roll the drivers side window all the way down. This way you won't accidentally lock yourself out of your truck. 1 Quote
Troy85 Posted March 14, 2017 Posted March 14, 2017 ^^^^^ I would imagine this would be the second most embarrassing thing that could happen on the ramp. With the 1st being, not tying your boat properly and having it float away. Quote
runt4561 Posted March 15, 2017 Posted March 15, 2017 if I am by myself I use two or three different methods depending on what kind of ramp it is. the prep I do before backing down is the same. I have a 19 foot bass boat with a single axle drive on trailer. when I pull up to the ramp, I get out and remove my straps and motor toter from the rear of the boat. I then hook up my gps/depth finder to the console. now I am ready to back down the ramp and one of the 3 methods come into play. if I have a dock that is close to the ramp, I will leave the cable attached to the bow and back down very close to the dock. when the boat is deep enough to be backed off of the trailer with the outboard, I engage the parking brake before I place the transmission in park. this will not put such a bind on your transmission. if you put in park and then apply the parking brake, there is more pressure on the transmission because, the weight of the boat has pulled the trailer backwards a bit before the parking brake was applied. at this point, I get out and walk down the dock and just step in the boat, no wet feet. back the boat off and tie up to the dock. get back in truck. the first thing I do is put it in drive with my foot on the break. once it is in drive, I remove my foot from the brake and give a little gas. I then release the parking break. the little bit of accelerator will prevent the truck and trailer from rolling back when the parking brake is released. if I don't have a dock, I usually back down until I see the boat float up a little. I then get out and release the bow strap, and climb in the boat from the front deck, if you have to back way off in the water, sometimes I have to do a tight rope walk out onto the tongue of the boat to release the strap and get in. I then back the boat off and beach it. if the ramp does not have anywhere to beach the boat or the ramp is extremely shallow, I will undo the bow strap prior to backing down and attach a rope to the bow eye and then tie the other end to the trailer. I then back down til the boat floats off. when the boat is clear of the trailer, I then slowly ease up the ramp. the rope will catch and then slowly tow the boat to shore. with the right timing, you can get the boat moving toward the shore and then get the trailer out of the water and jump out to catch the boat before it slams into the ramp. hope this helps Quote
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