No In Water Test Drive

[boostr]

Has anyone looked at a boat they were interested in buying, did the basic inspections, everthing works, but couldn't do a test drive due to Ice or draw down? What do you do if it's the boat you want? Do you make an agreement not to  put money in hand till after ice out or normal pool

[J Francho]

I bought one boat without a test drive, but I had been in it before, so I knew what I was getting into.

[Robeng]

Test with garden hose and motor muffs or test in barrel of water is one way but is not all inclusive like being on the water.

 

 

[Airman4754]

I bought my boat without taking it on the water. I kind of knew it was in pristine condition and once I met the owner I had zero worries.

[boostr]

I'll will have to be extra vigilant inspecting this boat. He said he's the second owner, and that the first owner was an older gentleman who didn't use it alot. He doesnt have maintenance records because he does it himself.

[iabass8]

Unless I had been in it before, then no, I wouldn't buy it. You're taking quite the gamble w/o running it. Starting on muffs is quite different than running /w back pressure in the water and at WOT. 

[Cmiller]

I have bought two boats without a water test. As long as you look it over good, do a compression check and hear it run on muffs you shouldn't have any major issues. When I buy a used boat I always plan on going through the fuel system and giving everything else a through inspection. 

[riverbasser]

I agree with most above, its a gamble. Yes you can do compression check and run on muffs but I've helped friends who had issues with misfiring or weak firing and standing next to it running on the hose you could not tell a thing. A lot of the ignition components are super expensive and even more so if you can't install yourself.

[dave]

I bought two boats that had sat for a while.  Both would start right up and sound great with muffs.   When I got them on the water the first time,  no power.  they would putt putt down the river but,  would not run.  Both needed carburetor rebuilds.

[A-Jay]

May not be worth the risk.

A-Jay

[ww2farmer]

Unless it was brand new with full mfg warranty.............I would never buy one without a test ride/drive. Same goes for a used car.

[slonezp]

Is this the same boat from the other thread that your buddy is selling? You mentioned in the other thread that he just spent $1200 to get it running, Correct?  

[S Hovanec]

I bought my 16' Sea Nymph without a ride.  Just ran the 25hp on the muffs.  Wasn't putting out a ton of money for it, so if there were problems, it wouldn't be a big deal.  I knew going in that the floor had a soft spot, so a rebuild was already planned.

 

I bought my Lund without a drive too, but I ordered it new.

[Way2slow]

It's based on your knowledge level and what kind of deal you are getting.

I've probably owned 30 or more boats over a 55 year span and I have never taken one for a test drive.  I've bought several I never even pulled to cover on the motor or started up. 

Now, if you know boats and motors like I do and there's absolutely nothing about one you can't fix, and the deals good enough, you can do that.  I will also say, it has bit me in the a** a couple of times but I usually come out ahead.

 

For the average boat owner, I strongly suggest they take it for a test drive but there are always going to be times when that's not even possible due to location or time of year.   That's when the boat needs to be thoroughly checked out be a very competent person/mechanic.   The motor needs to be run and warmed up and a compression test done, listening closely to motor while it's running.  The charging system needs to be checked to make sure it's working.  The lube level in the lower unit needs to be checked and the drain plug needs to be opened for second to make sure no water comes out and the color of the lube is good (this needs to be done first, before it's started).

The boat transom and floor and steering needs to be checked.  If cable steer, make sure it's easy to turn.  If hydraulic steering, make sure there's no free play, indicating air in the system.  Either one can be several hundred dollars to repair.    A bad transom or floor pretty much makes one junk.   

[Bluebasser86]

When I was boat shopping I'd found one I really liked, planned on buying it after a test drive. The guy that owned it said he'd paid $400 to have it winterized (my first clue he might not know what he was talking about), and that he wouldn't let me run it because he didn't want to pay to have it done a second time. I told him I wouldn't buy it without running it, but he stayed firm even when I offered to pay part of the cost to have it winterized again if I didn't want to buy it. I'm sure he sold it eventually, but no matter how much I wanted that boat, there was no way I was taking it home without even hearing it run. 

[boostr]

On 2/23/2017 at 7:33 PM, slonezp said:

Is this the same boat from the other thread that your buddy is selling? You mentioned in the other thread that he just spent $1200 to get it running, Correct?  

No, thus is a different one.

It's this one. Checked it out, the seller did everything I asked without hesitation. He even filled up his hull with water to show me that the bilge worked.

 

[boostr]

I spent 4 hours with this guy. Me checking the boat, him just doing what I asked. He's only selling it because he bought a Basscat Pantera. He does his own maintenance, and he's particular about everything.  Got a good vibe from him.

It being a composite construction, and no wood is a plus too.

[Deakin]

Depends on the boat. If it is a 2k boat with a 25 hp motor not a big deal. I even took a mechanic with me as it was an 8 hour drive one way. They had the issues camouflaged. Tested the motor compression and all was good. Knew the trailer was in need of repair. Ran the boat on the muffs but as stated above it isn't the same as on the water. Spent all of last year chasing down what they had tried to fix. Went to the lake more last year than ever before and was on the water less than three hours. I have learned how to work on a 200 mercury xri now and no I am not interviewing for a mechanic job. I should have spent another $3000 and might have gotten a better deal.

[TOXIC]

Sounds like you got a deal and got away clean.  With a truthful seller that's good.  "If" you had some one who was trying to hide problems then you could have been stuck with some additional repair costs. General rule of thumb is that a seller is always trying to hide something.  LOL!! So, my checklist is easy and I have never been burned.  Depending on how much you know about boats then you may want to take someone with you that does.  Here's how I approach the big $$ repair items when looking:

 

1. Big motor.  That's easy, it goes to a certified mechanic (at my cost even if I don't buy) for a full checkup.

2. Transom/Hull. Tilt the motor up and put your weight on the motor foot lifting up and down.  Should have no movement in the transom.  Check hull for gouges/damage/repairs.  If a glass boat, check for hull blisters.  

3. Trailer.  Tires/Brakes/Bearings/lights check.

 

That's going to identify any big $$ repairs.  A water test will help with the motor check (running under load) and will also verify all pumps/livewells/lights/battery/gauges/through hull fittings/plumbing etc., work as designed.  Check bilge for dryness before launching and after the test run.  I never drive the boat on a water test.  Always the registered owner.   In my mind every step I eliminate puts more risk on me as the buyer.  Depends on the boat/seller on how involved I get.  I have yest to be burned but I have walked away from some deals.