Rod dryer direction?

[Josh_Bovaird]

Ive got a CRB rod dryer and the way my bench and rooms setup it spins towards me and makes it more difficult to do the epoxy.  Is there a way I can reverse the motor on the dryer?

[Bass Turd]

You are going to laugh out loud. Spin it around so the other side is facing you. In other words if the motor is on your right put it on your left. 

[Josh_Bovaird]

2 minutes ago, Bass Turd said:

You are going to laugh out loud. Spin it around so the other side is facing you. In other words if the motor is on your right put it on your left. 

I don't have the space to really run it on the right.  Ive got it on the left and its spinning towards me, thats why I'm asking.  I didn't know if reversing the wires would make it run in reverse or not.

[Tim Kelly]

Usually stopping and starting it makes it reverse. Try switching it on and off a few times. I bet it will run one way some times and the other at other times.

[Delaware Valley Tackle]

^^ that's how my newer on works. 

[Jrob78]

^^ same

[spoonplugger1]

You apply epoxy on your wrapper at about 200 rpms, the dryer is for drying.

[Josh_Bovaird]

12 hours ago, spoonplugger1 said:

You apply epoxy on your wrapper at about 200 rpms, the dryer is for drying.

I don't think I can spin my wrapper that fast its a hand wrapper

15 hours ago, Tim Kelly said:

Usually stopping and starting it makes it reverse. Try switching it on and off a few times. I bet it will run one way some times and the other at other times.

That did the trick thanks!

[spoonplugger1]

For me anyway, I've had the best quality work either applying finish by hand, or on my power wrapper. Again it's me, but I had a far harder time controlling the epoxy at 18 rpm or whatever your dryer runs at.

When hand applying I built two sets of V blocks, one tall enough barely for spinning guides to clear, and one set for fly rods/casting rods. The lower V blocks put my hand in a lower, stabler, and much more comfortable position while applying the finish. It helps stop all the little shakes and jitters. I built a hand steady for the same reason on the power wrapper, pretty much just a custom height wood block that slides in the thread carriage slot on the wrapper.

[.ghoti.]

I found that if I give the dryer chuck a twist in the right direction while flipping the switch, it will start in the preferred direction almost every time.

[MickD]

200 rpm for applying epoxy?  No trouble spinning it off?  How sure are you of that speed?  The reason I ask is that I think it may mislead someone looking to buy an application motor.  I really think much slower, like about 60 might be right.  thanks.

 

I use a slow one for applying because when I've tried a faster one I find the tunnels and guide feet hard to manage, so I just carefully use the slower speed of my drying setup.

[.ghoti.]

I don't use a motor when applying epoxy. I do a much better job turning by hand.

[MickD]

7 hours ago, .ghoti. said:

I don't use a motor when applying epoxy. I do a much better job turning by hand.

I'll try doing it by hand on my wrapper then moving it to the dryer.  I think that will work for me too.  I've been reluctant to try it, afraid of the move, bunging the wet epoxy up during the move.  I don't have a power wrapper that can double as a dryer, so the move will be necessary.

[.ghoti.]

My power wrapper has a drier motor as well as a larger wrapping motor. I use that most times, but I have a separate dryer setup. Moving from wrapper to the separate dryer is no real problem. I grab the rod between the stripper and the seat. I have yet to screw up the epoxy doing this.

 

I probably should not have said that.

[Alpster]

I have always applied finish on the dryer. I love getting done and just walking away. My Renzetti rod lathe would sling finish on the ceiling if I used it. LOL I have an old Flex Coat dryer and it always turns in the same direction. The other dryer is homemade and I'm not sure.

[.ghoti.]

Ronnie, you would like my dryer setup. I had a lot of trouble at first, with getting a nice level finish. I found the only way to results that make me happy was to turn by hand. Let it sit, turn 180 degrees, let it sit, turn 180 degrees,....... about two hours in, I could turn on the dryer, and walk away. That works nicely.

 

Now, I apply finish without a motor, like before. I let it sit for bit, wick the sags off the bottom of the blank, rotate 180 degrees, let it sit, look for sags again, wick them away if necessary, then flip the switch on my automated dryer. And walk away.

 

It sits for 30 seconds, then rotates 180 degrees. Then sits for 31 seconds and rotates. It adds one second to the wait time each cycle, until it hits two hours, then turns the motor on continuous. Works like a charm. 

[Josh_Bovaird]

6 hours ago, .ghoti. said:

Ronnie, you would like my dryer setup. I had a lot of trouble at first, with getting a nice level finish. I found the only way to results that make me happy was to turn by hand. Let it sit, turn 180 degrees, let it sit, turn 180 degrees,....... about two hours in, I could turn on the dryer, and walk away. That works nicely.

 

Now, I apply finish without a motor, like before. I let it sit for bit, wick the sags off the bottom of the blank, rotate 180 degrees, let it sit, look for sags again, wick them away if necessary, then flip the switch on my automated dryer. And walk away.

 

It sits for 30 seconds, then rotates 180 degrees. Then sits for 31 seconds and rotates. It adds one second to the wait time each cycle, until it hits two hours, then turns the motor on continuous. Works like a charm. 

I feel like the finish is the hardest part.  I think i seen you're build on the dryer before ghoti