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Posted

Hey everyone.  I just started pouring some.  So I am pretty green.  I have 5 molds.  Two of the molds are giving me fits.  One is a Do-it Trokar screw lock  football shaky head mold.  The other is the Do-it Midwestern or "Ned Rig" mold.  After pouring the hook will move around inside the lead.  I was wondering if I'm doing something wrong or it just happens sometimes?  My pot is the Lee's bottom fead.  

The other 3 molds are a weedless football head jig and a weedless brush jig.  The other is a poison tail swing head mold.   All Do-it.

Posted

The only time I run into this problem is when the bait collar doesn't fill in all the way on a Do-It Tip Up mold.  When this happens I will run a few rounds of lead through the mold without adding hooks to heat the mold up. If your mold is really hot check to make sure you are seating the hooks properly.  If I have a hook shift prior to pouring it will block the collar causing a bad pour.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Posted
8 hours ago, YUT18 said:

The only time I run into this problem is when the bait collar doesn't fill in all the way on a Do-It Tip Up mold.  When this happens I will run a few rounds of lead through the mold without adding hooks to heat the mold up. If your mold is really hot check to make sure you are seating the hooks properly.  If I have a hook shift prior to pouring it will block the collar causing a bad pour.

 

Hope this helps.

 

I have laid the mold on the pot to heat it up quite a bit.  Only thing I can think of is maybe the hook isn't heated up enough when I put it in.  I always make sure the stuff lines up.  If it doesn't you know pretty quick because there are gaps.  

 

I'll use your method of pouring a few empty slots to heat up what slots I'm going to use.  Of course it probably doesn't help my shop isn't heated.  I could see my breath last night in there. lol

  • Like 1
Posted

which mold is the lead still moving on the hook with? or is it with more than one mold?

 

I always use the highest heat setting on my lead pot. Give it the better part of 30 minutes to heat up, if not more. When you pour the lead, I try to get the nipple of the pouring pot as far down into the mold hole as possible, sometimes you will pour too much but you can just throw it back in the pot when it solidifies. This is especially true with my weedless round head jig mold on the 5/16 oz. If I don't do it that way the lead does not form the collar properly. Also try to pour it at a slight angle, experiment to find which one works best, I never pour with the mold flat and even.

  • Like 1
Posted

Try heating the lead up hotter, sometimes when I get impatient and pour the lead into the mold as soon as it melts, the hook moves around in the lead or is in incomplete jig head.  And also make sure the lead is going directly into the mold hole, if the lead first touches the rim of the mold it will cool down enough to result in an incomplete pour.  And don't slow down pouring the lead in once you start, if you do the lead will cool down enough to result in an incomplete pour also.

  • Like 1
Posted
On ‎1‎/‎24‎/‎2017 at 9:25 PM, Karma said:

which mold is the lead still moving on the hook with? or is it with more than one mold?

 

I always use the highest heat setting on my lead pot. Give it the better part of 30 minutes to heat up, if not more. When you pour the lead, I try to get the nipple of the pouring pot as far down into the mold hole as possible, sometimes you will pour too much but you can just throw it back in the pot when it solidifies. This is especially true with my weedless round head jig mold on the 5/16 oz. If I don't do it that way the lead does not form the collar properly. Also try to pour it at a slight angle, experiment to find which one works best, I never pour with the mold flat and even.

The Midwest rig or "Ned Rig" and the football shaky head with a screw lock.

Posted

I have the ned mould too and, especially with the smaller sizes, there just isn't much lead around the hook, so they are prone to moving. Power coating the heads does a good job of making the hook secure enough. It's the only mould I really feel it's necessary to power coat the jigs, the other moulds with moulded keepers have much more lead round the hook, so the hook is solid.

  • Like 2
  • Super User
Posted

I never studied metallurgy but I would guess that the hotter the lead is (when it has expanded as much as it "can') the more it will contract (and the tighter it will grip) when it cools.  Or am I completely off base?  Anyone?

Posted

I have been putting the setting on 3 and a half to 4.  It goes much higher.  And with a non heated garage pouring at around 45 degrees could be a culprit as well.  I always let the lead melt for a good 30 minutes with the mold on the pot while it is melting.  The other thing could be is that even though the mold is hot the hooks may not be hot enough when I pour.  So I will turn the heat on the pot way up to see if that helps.  I will tinker a bit to see what works and pass on my findings.  I appreciate everyones feedback.  I think I've found something to help pass my time!  I work graveyard, so basically on my days off I keep the schedule.  So when I'm not working overtime the night gets long just setting on the dang sofa! lol

Posted

I have the same problem with the lead moving around the jig head on the smallest shaky head. I just stopped making it, its too light for me anyway.

  • 5 months later...
  • Super User
Posted
On ‎1‎/‎26‎/‎2017 at 1:25 PM, Tim Kelly said:

I have the ned mould too and, especially with the smaller sizes, there just isn't much lead around the hook, so they are prone to moving. Power coating the heads does a good job of making the hook secure enough. It's the only mould I really feel it's necessary to power coat the jigs, the other moulds with moulded keepers have much more lead round the hook, so the hook is solid.

 

I have the same problem and deal with the same way by powder coating the head.

 

Allen

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