bigfruits Posted January 22, 2017 Posted January 22, 2017 Hello, About how much more expensive would it be to send a complete rod vs a blank to a builder to have a custom rod built? In other words, how much extra cost would it be for them to take the factory components off of a rod to start a custom build? A very rough estimate is what I am looking for. Thanks! -Z Quote
spoonplugger1 Posted January 22, 2017 Posted January 22, 2017 The labor to remove components and put them on another rod would far exceed the cost of new components. If your doing it for yourself and are doing this for the sake of experience than go for it. 1 Quote
bigfruits Posted January 22, 2017 Author Posted January 22, 2017 sorry spoonplugger1, i was not clear in my post. i have a rod that i love but dislike the grip. i am either going to have it rebuilt or sell it. if i send this rod to a builder to have all of the components removed so that it can be rebuilt with new components, how much more will it cost me than if i just sent him a blank? Quote
spoonplugger1 Posted January 22, 2017 Posted January 22, 2017 If your just sending him "THE" blank it's going to cost you a fee to clean up the blank before installing the new components, and than the fee, time and proper packaging to get the blank safely to the builder, that's just for starts. Frankly I've been always a bit leery with building on someone's blank, I have no control over it's reliability and whether it's incurred any damage in transit or use. I stress things pretty good before I build on a blank to ensure I'm not wasting mine and the customers time building on something substandard. If it blew up while testing I'd just throw it in the junk bin and call you up with a verbal "Oh Well" and like shrug. That said the amount of blanks that have blown up is maybe 1%, but it does happen. $ 40 an hour for any work done, can't do better than that as you gave no clue to the grip involved. 1 Quote
Hogsticker Posted January 22, 2017 Posted January 22, 2017 It takes more time and labor to take something apart and put it back together than to just put it together. If you just want to put a new handle grip on it that's doable. 1 Quote
Super User kickerfish1 Posted January 22, 2017 Super User Posted January 22, 2017 Must be some kind of rod that you are trying to rejuvenate. Figure around $25 - 30 each way for shipping, materials, and labor and will easily clear $100 to have a new grip put on. Are you using a local builder or sending it to someone? Have you inquired around to get some quotes from some builders? 1 Quote
Delaware Valley Tackle Posted January 22, 2017 Posted January 22, 2017 Grip change not all that involved in most cases. Changing the seat is a project. Stopping and replacing guides is a lot of labor. To replace a broken guide I get $7.50 for a single foot and $10 for a double foot plus the cost of the guide(s). Do the math and add shipping. 1 Quote
VolFan Posted January 28, 2017 Posted January 28, 2017 I've poked around with some builders before about this same question. Let's just say you're not going to be at the top of anyone's waiting list if you want a rod stripped and rebuilt, and with shipping, labor, and components, it ends up being cheaper to build a rod from scratch, unless you start getting into super premium blanks, and then it's a push. 1 Quote
Super User Alpster Posted February 16, 2017 Super User Posted February 16, 2017 I stripped and re-built three expensive, high end rods and two of them turned out fine, the third rod in this process that was destroyed when heating the epoxy to remove guides. About a $200 rod at the time. So, there's that. I could have built a 1/2 a dozen for the same amount of time & energy. Find a good builder and a blank that has the same specs as the one you like and build a new one. JMHO 3 Quote
Super User roadwarrior Posted February 16, 2017 Super User Posted February 16, 2017 Alpster built me a deep cranking rod using a Lamiglas SR705R blank. It is THE BOMB! 1 Quote
bigfruits Posted February 16, 2017 Author Posted February 16, 2017 thanks guys, estimates sound reasonable. im going to find out what will work on my rod and get back. not going to build from scratch as I am in love with this rod! max lure rating is 2oz and the thing feels like a well balanced MH. but that d**n foregrip.... thanks again, -Z Quote
Super User S Hovanec Posted February 16, 2017 Super User Posted February 16, 2017 36 minutes ago, bigfruits said: not going to build from scratch as I am in love with this rod! max lure rating is 2oz and the thing feels like a well balanced MH. but that d**n foregrip.... thanks again, -Z If it's just a foregrip removal, that's a piece of cake. Hack it off, trim the seat back some, clean up the blank and place a thread wrap over the blank to hide the uglies from the grip removal. 1 Quote
bigfruits Posted February 16, 2017 Author Posted February 16, 2017 You will have to forgive me, i tried to find a diagram of a reel seat to have a bit of vocabulary but was unsuccessful. Its a short foregrip that screws onto the reel seat threads (is that even called foregrip?) so it would have to be replaced. The part could unscrew and slide off the rod if some of the guides were not there. i dont mind cutting it off but i assume i would have to remove several guides to add a new foregrip regardless. I guess i could have saved everyone some time if i had asked "how much does it cost to remove and replace guides" because although a full cork rear grip would be nice, i can keep what i have. I think DVT got me covered on pricing. Im going to do a little research to see what foregrip fits my Fuji threads and then contact one of you guys with pictures. I really love this rod so im willing to spend a bit of money on it. Thanks! -Z 1 Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.