Snell Knot Abrasion

[hillc833]

Obviously I need to retie more often, but typically when I break braid flipping with a snell knot, it is caused by where the line rubs against the top of the hook eye before it enters the eye and ties to the shaft.  Does anyone have any ideas such as putting a small 1/2" long piece tube (rubber, flexible plastic, coffee straw) or some other means of reducing the abrasion?  That part of the line would be covered by the bait anyway.  Just looking online for ideas and not seeing anything so thought someone on here may have come up with a solution for this problem.

[A-Jay]

Hello and Welcome to Bass Resource ~

 

Flipping / Pitching with heavy tungsten bullet weights that ride & pound directly on any knot, including a snell knot can contribute to sudden, unexpected & premature line failure.  An additional bobber stop at the back of the weight, between the weight and the hook, can help prevent this.  Another contributing factor to line failure can be the tungsten weight itself, particularly the products that do not have an insert, have a rough, unfinished line pass through area and / or rough / sharp edges; especially when using braided line.  Some dedicated flippers utilize a short section of heat shrink tube placed inside these weights to combat the abrasion that might otherwise cause distress.

 

btw - I personally do not buy into "the snell knot hinge" on the hookset delusion. 

There are a number of very strong & perfectly effective knots other than a snell, that when tied correctly will help deliver a sharp hook into a big bass.

 

A-Jay

[Darren.]

Welcome aboard!

 

A bobber stop will help you out there, methinks. @A-Jay is 

right there, and with his other suggestions.

 

Snells are excellent knots, and I will use them on hooks with

long shanks, and even short shanks like an EWG, or other

worm hook. Some hooks I've found (Daiichi) do not snell well

at all due to the eye not being fully shut or welded shut like

other brands. Gamakatsu hooks are great for this.

 

I'll refine my comment to say that I don't snell much anymore
and just use a palomar or clinch knot because life is easier that

way. If I'm flipping and pitching, it's almost always palomar or
clinch these days. I stand by that the snell is a good knot, just

not for all applications.

Edited January 4, 2017 by Darren.

[J Francho]

Simple answer....don't snell for high impact hook sets with braid.  I don't use it anymore.  A Palomar or Uni knot will suit your purpose much better, and every fish you stick well, should end up in the boat, and none will break off due to the issue you cite.

[MIbassyaker]

1 hour ago, A-Jay said:

Hello and Welcome to Bass Resource ~

 

Flipping / Pitching with heavy tungsten bullet weights that ride & pound directly on any knot, including a snell knot can contribute to sudden, unexpected & premature line failure.  An additional bobber stop at the back of the weight, between the weight and the hook, can help prevent this.  Another contributing factor to line failure can be the tungsten weight itself, particularly the products that do not have an insert, have a rough, unfinished line pass through area and / or rough / sharp edges; especially when using braided line.  Some dedicated flippers utilize a short section of heat shrink tube placed inside these weights to combat the abrasion that might otherwise cause distress.

 

btw - I personally do not buy into "the snell knot hinge" on the hookset delusion. 

There are a number of very strong & perfectly effective knots other than a snell, that when tied correctly will help deliver a sharp hook into a big bass.

 

A-Jay

 

I'm glad you said that, as I've been skeptical of this claim for a while now. Its one of these things that makes less sense the more you think about it -- it assumes a phantom pivot point that doesn't seem to have much physical reason to exist.

[A-Jay]

5 minutes ago, MIbassyaker said:

 

I'm glad you said that, as I've been skeptical of this claim for a while now. Its one of these things that makes less sense the more you think about it -- it assumes a phantom pivot point that doesn't seem to have much physical reason to exist.

 

Can't Disagree.

A-Jay

[gulfcaptain]

I snell my flipping hooks when fishing braid.  Had the 3/4oz weight break my knots a few times and since doing the snell or using a silocone punch skirt I've solved that issue.  Now I don't know about the pivot point for the snell but I do know it does make the bait fall and land different then if used without a snell.  And if I'm using a EWG hook, I'll always put a bobber stop between the hook and the weight for knot protection with 1/2oz or heavier weights.

[flyingmonkie]

I always put a bead between my hook and weight, even if i'm flipping.  It gets all squeezed together with a bobber stop.

[XzyluM]

What's everyone's thought on pegging the weight tight or leaving a small gap so it can move somewhat. I have seen a lot of people prefer both ways. 

[WIGuide]

8 hours ago, XzyluM said:

What's everyone's thought on pegging the weight tight or leaving a small gap so it can move somewhat. I have seen a lot of people prefer both ways. 

Personally I'll peg it tight if I'm fishing without a bead. A lot of times though I'll add a small tungsten bead in between the weight and the hook and in this case I won't peg the weight tight so I still get some clicking noise. 

[Mike L]

Ok there's always one in the crowd

.I snell and proud of it That said the only hook I use or ever will use for flippin, pitchin and punchin is the Trokar TK 130. I have never had the problem you describe. I have used a bobber stop below the weight for years but never needed it after switching to the Trokar for some reason. 

 

When punching I don't see the need for a gap or a bead as you decribe. The min I use is 65# PP. The last thing I want is any space. Kinda defeats the pupose of having a punch rig in my mind. 

If t rigging in sparse or moderate cover, then I use a bead. 

 

Just one mans opinion

 

 

 

Mike

[J Francho]

I'll snell a hook, but it's with heavy fluorocarbon.  Reason is, the knot is so big, it gets in the way, and I don't like the weight rubbing on it.  I also snell my tiny bait hooks for trout and salmon.  The angle does make a difference when drift/float fishing, but not really applicable to bass.  Braid isn't an issue, and the gap in the line tie of my preferred hooks is problematic.  It's all about problem solving, and applying what you know if you have an issue.  When you find something that works, keep doing until it doesn't!

[Mike L]

4 hours ago, WIGuide said:

Personally I'll peg it tight if I'm fishing without a bead. A lot of times though I'll add a small tungsten bead in between the weight and the hook and in this case I won't peg the weight tight so I still get some clicking noise. 

 

Question.. Where do find the tungsten beads you use? There's nowhere close to me that I've found that carries them. All I can find are glass? 

 

Thanks

 

 

Mike 

[J Francho]

Gander used to sell them here locally, but I don't see them anymore.  I've used some from fly tying suppliers.  They have some different shapes, too.  Only thing is, they only go up to 4mm.  They come in some crazy colors.  They are intended to be thread onto a hook, but they work on line too.

[Mike L]

2 hours ago, J Francho said:

Gander used to sell them here locally, but I don't see them anymore.  I've used some from fly tying suppliers.  They have some different shapes, too.  Only thing is, they only go up to 4mm.  They come in some crazy colors.  They are intended to be thread onto a hook, but they work on line too.

 

Thanks John

 

 

 

Mike 

[WIGuide]

3 hours ago, Mike L said:

 

Question.. Where do find the tungsten beads you use? There's nowhere close to me that I've found that carries them. All I can find are glass? 

 

Thanks

 

 

Mike 

I order mine from Eco Pro Tungsten or TW. Unfortunately nowhere around me carries them either then again I live in the middle of nowhere so that's part of it haha. 

[Mike L]

1 hour ago, WIGuide said:

I order mine from Eco Pro Tungsten or TW. Unfortunately nowhere around me carries them either then again I live in the middle of nowhere so that's part of it haha. 

 

Thanks Pal

 

 

 

Mike

[hillc833]

Wow thanks for the feedback.  A peg it to slip through eye of hook is simple answer and can't believe I hadn't thought of that.

I flip ALOT and while I can definitely say I may break a palomar knot maybe once every other year, I can also definitely say that I do see I considerably higher hook up ratio with the snell.  That said, it currently evens out because I break the snell so much where it rubs against the hook eye.  Will try the rubber pegs under the weight to slip through the eye.  I belive I saw a slightly longer and narrower version of a rubber stop on TW the other day.

 

Thanks again.

Just looked at TW and the Decoy Shot Lock is what I have in mind.

Not sure if I need small or Large.

http://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Decoy_Shot_Lock_L-2_14pk/descpage-DCYSL.html

 

 

 

[J Francho]

9 minutes ago, hillc833 said:

Not sure if I need small or Large.

 

Large probably, though it looks like that is only crimp on weights.  They have other Texas Rig products.  Hard to find, but looks pretty cool.