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Posted

I'm not against anyone doing it their way so don't take my way as gospel. Most here seem to be somewhat close or a loose variation of what others are doing anyway. These are just what I use and it works for me.  

  • 2 regular plain old bobber stops. I have no issues with 2 slipping. I've started using strips for pegging my weights recently and liking it so far too. 
  • 4/0 5/0 or 6/0 straight shank Flippin hook depending on plastic I am using.
  • I use the snell knot (very easy to learn) and it may or may not be a advantage but I like it.
  • Usually around 50lb strait braid but I don't see 40lb or 80lb making a difference.
  • Sure tungsten is nice but I have been using lead 3/4 to 1.5 oz (still legal here)
  • Berkley Pit Boss and Devil Spear both punch just fine for me and are very reasonable priced baits especially on sale.
  • I punch both ways sometimes I use a skirt sometimes I don't. I use whatever way the fish are hitting it.  
  • I use a Mojo 7'11" Heavy/Mod. Fast Flipping stick. I really like having that length and the rod has some good backbone.
  • I'm using a old BPQ in 7.1:1 ratio with the drag locked down. Probably not the best reel for this but it has worked great.  

 

  • Super User
Posted
4 hours ago, RyneB said:

what advantages do you see by not pegging? I just feel I work harder to get the bait through not pegged, that's all. maybe I'm doing it wrong.

 

Can't give an answer?

It's OK most guys can't!

 

The bass fishing industry has convinced anglers that certain products are required to be successful at specific techniques in order to boost sales.

 

They tell us that when fishing an unpegged Texas rig of any weight we'll get this huge amount of separation between the weight & hook which is totally untrue. And yes a "Punch" rig is a Texas rig...it's just on steroids!

 

The hardest vegetation to punch is probably Water Hyacinth only because your weight well land on top of the plant instead of between them.

 

The Snell knot is another one, the premise is the we can set hook so hard that the hook pivots in the basses mouth. They even show us how it works by holding the weight between their fingers & pulling the line. Ya think a basses mouth is this huge cavern! What's strange is they never use a Snell knot any other time! If it is so effective why not Snell every hook?

  • Like 2
Posted

I don't do any of these because a pro or industry tell me too. I Do these because they work better for me, no doubt. My hookup ratio is better with a snell and sttaight shank, and I get through the mat much cleaner and efficiently with a pegged weight. I'm not arguing against not pegging, I have seen plenty of guys do it. I'm just asking what the advantages are. Maybe I haven't tapped into the advantages of it.

  • Like 2
Posted

I fish the Atchafalaya basin and that's all I punch through is thick mats of water hyacinth.. It gets real thick in the summer!!! You would be wasting time punching with out a bobber stop!!! 

I agree about the snell knot... I still say palomor is one of the best knots for braid... I never broke off punching..

Posted

not sure of the type of vegetation, as it seems to be several different kinds, and I'm not aquatic vegetation expert. But it's this stuff, and a lot of times it has a snotty and slimey stuff underneath. This is a place I fish often.

DLE_6638_700-Emiquon-Boat-Launch-area.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

If you can punch effectively and not use a bobber stop, I say more power to you! That's one less thing you have to buy and rig.  I just know I'm not as efficient without it, especially in the specific conditions I listed earlier.  As for the snell...eh.  I get the concept.  I tried it and it did work like it's "supposed" to.  I've just used a palomar forever and didn't see a drastic hookup improvement from the snell.  

  • Super User
Posted

I still use the typical punching rig, but more often, I turn to a heavy duty, jika style rig.  I make them myself, using heavy wide gap hooks, heavy split split rings, and trolling weights.  Here's a pic:

 

jika.jpg

  • Like 2
Posted

I got this V&M slip n jig in my LTB a few months back I haven't tried out.Its either 1/2 or 3/4 skirted Punch weight.I don't know if anyone has tried them.Basically a skirted heavy t-rig.

  • Like 1
Posted

I'll choose a jig to punch with over the typical stuff anytime I can get away with it.  Less working parts = more flips/pitches/punches.

1 minute ago, MassBassin508 said:

I got this V&M slip n jig in my LTB a few months back I haven't tried out.Its either 1/2 or 3/4 skirted Punch weight.I don't know if anyone has tried them.Basically a skirted heavy t-rig.

 

I imagine they are just like SK's slither rig, which I have tried.  I like not having to add so many pieces to the rig so these get two thumbs up in my book.     

  • Like 3
Posted
7 minutes ago, RichF said:

I'll choose a jig to punch with over the typical stuff anytime I can get away with it.  Less working parts = more flips/pitches/punches.

 

I imagine they are just like SK's slither rig, which I have tried.  I like not having to add so many pieces to the rig so these get two thumbs up in my book.     

Yea its the same exact thing

Pond won't freeze out here.I may take the new reel out for a test drive and get it dialed in!Not sure how much action ill get flipping and slow rolling some jigs but a man has to try.

  • Super User
Posted

 

We've been known to use a jig like that to punch through thin, melting ice on ponds in early spring!

  • Like 3
  • Super User
Posted
On 1/4/2017 at 9:17 AM, RichF said:

I'll choose a jig to punch with over the typical stuff anytime I can get away with it.  Less working parts = more flips/pitches/punches.

 

Now ya talking my language!

2 rods I have on my deck 24/7/365, a jug rod & a Texas rig!

 

  • Like 1
  • Global Moderator
Posted
On 1/4/2017 at 6:27 AM, RyneB said:

not sure of the type of vegetation, as it seems to be several different kinds, and I'm not aquatic vegetation expert. But it's this stuff, and a lot of times it has a snotty and slimey stuff underneath. This is a place I fish often.

DLE_6638_700-Emiquon-Boat-Launch-area.jpg

 

Down here that's prime frog, skimming a magnum speed worm and swim bait territory. Not saying I wouldn't punch through the heavier sections, but with all those scattered holes punching wouldn't be my first choice. But I can certainly see why anyone would. 

 

 

Thanks Ryan and Catt, I hope others in the future follow your lead. 

 

 

 

Mike 

  • Like 1
Posted

Started pegging weights on fishing trips to big O. Now I peg the weight most of the time if I flippin soft plastics. Its easy, effective and cheap (you get 30 of them for 1.50). We don't have as much matted grass to punch, but i like the pegged weight around wood as well. Keeps the bait from separating and wrapping around a branch on the way in, low hanging green cypress limbs are really bad to get wrapped on and the pegging helps. 

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted

Great response @Mike L;)

The first & third pictures are Toledo Bend, the second is the  Atchafalaya Basin, & four/five are Lacassine Wildlife Refuge.

 

Lacassine is very much like Florida except shallow; those "pencil rods" (what we call em) to the right is so dense a 101# trolling can not penetrate!

 

@bagofdonuts just how much separation do you believe there is with say a 1/2 weight when flipped/pitched a reasonable distance?

  • Like 1
Posted

usually none. but occasionally i make a bad pitch and bounce off a limb going in, that's when you get separation (but not if it's pegged).

Posted

Enough with the pics already - I'm in the frozen North and it'll be months before I can do any punching, lol!

  • Like 1
Posted

@CattHow do you attack that third picture? We have similar looking grass here that looks like Christmas trees all over the water, not sure what exactly it is. I have had success fishing the edges of it since that is how my friend usually fishes it, but I always wonder what the proper way to attack it punching would be since I am pretty sure there is much bigger fish hiding in it. 

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted
4 minutes ago, XzyluM said:

@CattHow do you attack that third picture? We have similar looking grass here that looks like Christmas trees all over the water, not sure what exactly it is. I have had success fishing the edges of it since that is how my friend usually fishes it, but I always wonder what the proper way to attack it punching would be since I am pretty sure there is much bigger fish hiding in it. 

 

That's a cheek channel cove, it's 12-14' deep in the middle & cover bank to bank with Hydrilla Verticillata.

 

Punching is the only way! ;)

  • Like 1
Posted
1 minute ago, Catt said:

 

That's a cheek channel cove, it's 12-14' deep in the middle & cover bank to bank with Hydrilla Verticillata.

 

Punching is the only way! ;)

 

You mind explaining your typical setup for punching that? Like what size weight it normally requires? I plan on attacking it that way the next time I have the opportunity to fish it and am looking for an idea where to start.  And thanks for the reply, always enjoy reading your posts. 

  • Like 1
Posted

Mike L, I frog it and gambler big ez it as well. Seems the winning technique in tourneys is always punching it though.

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted

Terry Oldham's EyeMax jig 3/4, 1, or 1.25 oz, color Coontail with a Rage Tail Lobster, color Falcon Lake Craw.

 

Rage Tail's Magnum Structure Bug, tungsten weight 3/4-1.5 oz, & Owner 4/0 Jungle Hook

 

Do Not fish the grass...fish the structure under the grass!

  • Like 2
Posted

80lb Suffix 832, Bobber stop, tungsten, punch skirt, snelled punch hook, and anything made by Gambler. 

 

A frog or flipping rod works, but I really prefer a heavy with a moderate or moderate/fast action.

Posted

Yeah Catt, nothing like a hyacinth Matt circling  cypress trees and knees...image.jpg

 

  • Like 4
Posted

When you do find it better to use a skirt as compared to just a weight and the plastic?  

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