Punching what do I need to know

[Fishin' Fool]

I try to add one technique to my fishing skill set per year. This year I would like to add punching. I know it's a heavy rod, 50 to 80 pound braid, I'd imagine high speed reel, tungsten weights, crawdad imitation baits. If you'd help me out shortening my learning curve what else do I need to know? I don't envision that I will buy a new rod at this point just use my frog rod.

[Kidflex]

Bobber stops are a must. use slim profile baits with appendages that won't tangle in the vegetation. Be ready for a bite as it can happen very shortly after it enters the water. Sometimes u have to lob the bait higher to get it to penetrate the mat. Experiment and have fun. 

[RoLo]

Based on your synopsis, you already know the ropes.

The word "punching" is often used to describe simple 'weed-probing',

but true punching is essentially a vertical delivery using heavy weights that start at 3/4 ounce.

 

Braided polyethylene is the punching line of choice (e.g. 65-lb Sufix 832), but that's not etched in stone.

Tungsten weights between 3/4 & 2.5 ounces are typically used (tungsten is preferred, but not necessary)

In Florida's salads bowls I prefer a heavy power rod, but by all means use your frog rod

before investing in any specialized outfit (Rod lengths & reel speeds are based chiefly on personal choice)

 

The trailers used are generally referred to as 'craws', but due to the heavy weights & fast sink rates,

stuff like lure placement and lure behavior are far more important than shape.

For example in Florida, 'twin-tail grubs' get far more play than plastic crayfish. 

Keep your casts short and wait for bottom contact after every cast.

Good Luck

 

Roger

 

 

 

[RyneB]

All advice above pretty much covered it, but ill add my 2 cents. don't forget punch skirts, If I know I'll be punching, I'll always have a rig with a punch skirt and one without. Bait choice is key, want the slimmest you can to get through the mat. My favorites are gambler bb cricket, gambler why not, and D&M punch craw. Some guys disagree with me, but I believe a straight shank hook and snell knot is a must. Before using a straight shank/snell, I'd throw a EWG and my hookup ratio wasn't as good compared to straight shank flipping hook and snell knot. I also like to get away with the lightest weight I can. I usually start with 3/4 and 1 ounce and go heavier if I have to. But a little BB Cricket will get through some nasty stuff with a smaller weight, than something like a D Bomb or Beaver. Good luck, it's my favorite way to fish and very addicting.

[FishOnLMB]

The rod, reel, and line you are using is great for punching. I would recommend a 3/0 beefy flipping hook, rage craw(any creature bait that makes a lot of vibration), punch skirt to add bulkiness, heavy tungsten weight, and I usually use two bobber stops.  

[Oklahoma Mike]

Good advice in here. I'll add that I will always use the lightest weight I can get by with. If a 3/4oz weight will get me through the vegetation and to the bottom, that's what I'll use. Sometimes it takes as much as 2oz if I'm trying to punch thicker/heavier stuff, but I will start with the smallest weight I think will do the trick and work up as needed. I always use tungsten to keep the profile smaller. Always pegged (2x bobber stopper is a good idea or you'll be stopping more to re-rig). Always a straight shank flipping hook tied with a snell knot. 

 

One thing i didn't see mentioned above - you really don't need to leave your bait in there for very long. Drop it in, feel it hit the bottom, give it a hop, then bring it back and toss to another spot. You should pretty much be in constant motion, and you can cover a lot of area efficiently.

 

And always be ready to set that hook. Most bites will come on the initial drop. 

[gulfcaptain]

I would second the use the lightest weight you can get away with.  Always snell the flipping hook.  This protects the knot from the weight which will eventually cut through the braid (learned this using a different hook style)  Now if I use that style I either put a bobber stop between the hook and the weight to protect th knot or use a punch skirt.  And the other advice I'd give is you DON'T have to use 65-80lb braid.  I've used 30-40lb for years and been able to pull fish out of cover with no issues both punching and frog fishing.  Fish weed edges (where two different kinds of weeds grow together), points, holes, pockets.  I have found where I fish punching in the middle of the day in Summer when it's bright and sunny I fish the nastiest thick weedbeds I can and find them burried up under it.  I would also in the future look into a Moderate action or Moderate Fast action rod for you punch set up.  

[Catt]

Totally personal preferences!

I never Snell a hook & seldom peg a weight

If I want to add a skirt I'll use a Texas Rigged Jig; less parts required

Don't fish the grass, fish the structure under it

Lures; pick one, last year my #1 was Zooms Ultra Vibe Speed Worm

[SwampLife]

A lot of good info above!!! Here's my take

 

I punch all year long! many of trips the punching rod stays in my hand all day long... Tried many of different rods best I found is a 7'8" heavy action custom rod with a weight on the butt.. Go with the least amount of weight needed to get through the pads efficiently, usually 1 1/4  for me but do use 3/4 to 1.5oz... Bobber stops is a must.. Bait of choice is a sweet beaver or rage bug... I never use a skirt.. 65lb Power pro is the best braid I found..  5/0 hack attack hook is the best hook I found.. they don't always hit on the fall.. A lot of times there right underneath the mats.. You will be able to pattern them.. If they are underneith the Matt eating crawfish that's in the roots or what not you should Make your bait Suspend and bounce it on the bottom of the mats.. also a scented gel like Megastrike slopped on weight and bait helps it go through mats easier 

[Mike L]

When I first saw this I opened it right away thinking "I can help this guy" because I will punch first then look for other things to do..But not now

 

This should be a sticky

 

 

 

 

Mike

[RichF]

I really like a moderate-fast taper on my punch rod.  Having that little give really does help reduce tearing the hook out of the fishes mouth.   

[ww2farmer]

Everyone approaches punching a little different.

 

Here's my approach/gear:

 

I don't snell hooks, but I do peg weights.

 

I like bait's that are compact. Chigger craws, Pit boss's and yum dingers get the call most of the time. 

 

I don't much care for jigs for punching, if I want a skirt/bigger profile, I use a punch rig skirt. 

 

I tend to always use a straight shank flipping hook for punching, #1 is I am usually using a big (3/4 -1oz +) tungsten sinker, and the straight shank hooks have extra bite over an EWG hook when paired with a big weight, and #2 the big barb keepers on the flipping hooks keeps me punching, instead of adjusting baits every other flip.

 

Even in clear water, I tie direct to braid (usually 50lb test) 

 

The longer the rod the better IMHO. I like at least a 7'3" H power with a Mod. fast to fast action...........I don't like XF for a punching rod.

 

 

[RoLo]

3 hours ago, Catt said:

Totally personal preferences!

I never Snell a hook & seldom peg a weight

If I want to add a skirt I'll use a Texas Rigged Jig; less parts required

Don't fish the grass, fish the structure under it

Lures; pick one, last year my #1 was Zooms Ultra Vibe Speed Worm

 

Like Tom, I never snell the hook, and select my punching spots based on bottom contour,

and there I'll pinpoint the best weed pockets, weed alleys and weed points.

In short, my electric anchor gets far more exercise than my electric motor.

The Zoom Ultra-Vibe is my wife's best punch trailer, I've done pretty good

with a Zoom 4.25" Z-Craw (black light)

 

Roger

 

[Dypsis]

Glad I found this thread, I was going to post a similar question myself today.  

 

I've seen it mentioned in here a few times that for punching most(?) prefer a mod fast rod - is that simply to help alleviate ripping the hook out of the fish's mouth?  

[Catt]

 My personal preference is extra fast because of the size of the bass & the denseness of the grass I want to turn that bass's head & get her coming up on the hook set!

[12poundbass]

I'm going to focus on this more this year too. I see some say peg the weight and some say bobber stop. What's the preferred method? I've seen the pros recomend a bobber stop so the lure can move freely. What's your inputs?

[Catt]

Not needed!

[RichF]

2 hours ago, Dypsis said:

Glad I found this thread, I was going to post a similar question myself today.  

 

I've seen it mentioned in here a few times that for punching most(?) prefer a mod fast rod - is that simply to help alleviate ripping the hook out of the fish's mouth?  

 

I went from a heavy fast action stick to a heavy mod-fast for that reason and think it made a significant difference.  I also changed my hookset from the typical jig/flipping "crank down and crack" to more of a sweeping upward pull which has put a ton more fish in the boat for me.  But like everything bass fishing related, it's really about personal preference and what you feel comfortable with.  

 

1 hour ago, 12poundbass said:

I'm going to focus on this more this year too. I see some say peg the weight and some say bobber stop. What's the preferred method? I've seen the pros recomend a bobber stop so the lure can move freely. What's your inputs?

 

I find a bobber stop to be pretty necessary especially when I'm punching thru matted vegetation that has blown up into cattails, reeds, and pads.  It keeps my bait in one tight compact unit, not allowing the weight to disconnect from the rest of the rig and wrap around stuff/drop into holes before the bait does.      

[Fishin' Fool]

So I've been doing a lot of research on this technique the last 24 hours. I see the majority prefer a straight shank hook with a snell knot. I was a little intimidated by the snell knot so I found one that was developed by Ish Monroe that has a second eyelet a little lower than the original. With this hook you are supposed to be able to tie any knot other than a palomar. I'm looking forward to trying this technique this summer in Michigan. I have a good 6-7 months before we will have that many weeds lol.

[Oklahoma Mike]

A snell is actually a very easy knot to tie. Watch a vid and give it a try - you can master it in no time. 

[RyneB]

snell knot is simple. I also suggest using 6th sense punch stops instead of the cheap colored bobber stops. I only need 1 6th sense punch stop for the weight to stay. While my non boaters and friends who use the bobber stops need 3 or 4 stops just tone hold it.  There seems to be so much different advice, and it will come down to what you are trying to punch. Like the guys who say they don't use a punch stop, I have found it is nearly impossible for me to present a bait efficiently in the stuff I fish without a stop. The bait just doesn't make it through, but I can see where it'd work on less matted stuff. There is no set rule on punching, they say it's a mid day technique when the sun is high and hot, but I have had days where I'd smash them punching in the morning and have the punch bite die mid morning and afternoon. It's just wierd like that. 

[SwampLife]

I mentioned bobber stop..I use the bobber stop to peg the weight 100% of time ...my choice "bobber stop" is the pay check baits punch stop... Just have to order in bulk because they are always out of stock... I just use the cheap eagle claw ones for regular Texas rig 

[RichF]

x2 on the 6th sense stops

[Catt]

I've punched every kind of matted vegetation from Brownsville Texas to Ocala Florida & from the Gulf of Mexico to Ohio, so kind of grass do y'all have that's so different?

[RyneB]

what advantages do you see by not pegging? I just feel I work harder to get the bait through not pegged, that's all. maybe I'm doing it wrong.