BPS Pro Qualifier 2

[Goose52]

  On 12/30/2016 at 9:40 PM, cottny27 said:

Goose,

If you are ok with it I may attach some picks of the internals once I take it apart.  Hopefully you will comment on them.  Sounds like you may be an expert when it comes to this reel.  I'm not so sure how good my eye is on identifying which parts are worn.  I plan on polishing up the brake drum anyway + the spool & pinion.  The bearings don't sound like they are bad from what I could tell so far.  

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No problem on posting pics.

 

On polishing the brake drum - if it's only scratched a bit, and you don't take off too much material, that might be OK. However, if the brake drum is deeply scored, there's not much you can do about it other than replace the entire sideplate (the drum is NOT available as a replacement part).

 

Here are file photos that were taken as part of the PQ Five-Year Challenge test - these illustrate the areas that will show the most wear:

 

Brake drum wear (scored drum on left, new part on right):

 

 

Brake shoe wear (worn shoe on left, good shoe on right):

 

 

Frame wear in the area behind the clutch thumb bar (those grooves indicated by the red arrows shouldn't be there - it should be completely flat):

 

 

If the Carbonlite that you're looking at is good in the above areas, then probably the only thing else that you might want to check is wear to the worm shaft and line guide pawl.

 

A worn line guide pawl will look like this:

 

 

A new line guide pawl will look like the one in the upper right corner of this photo:

 

 

The line guide pawls are the same between CL and PQ and should be available. The CL has an aluminum worm shaft that may (or may not) be available but you can always substitute a PQ part.

 

If the brake drum is deeply scored, if the brake shoes are worn, or the frame grooved, then take a pass on the reel because those parts, even if available, would sour the deal from a $$$ perspective.

 

[cottny27]

  On 12/30/2016 at 11:21 PM, Goose52 said:

 

No problem on posting pics.

 

On polishing the brake drum - if it's only scratched a bit, and you don't take off too much material, that might be OK. However, if the brake drum is deeply scored, there's not much you can do about it other than replace the entire sideplate (the drum is NOT available as a replacement part).

 

Here are file photos that were taken as part of the PQ Five-Year Challenge test - these illustrate the areas that will show the most wear:

 

Brake drum wear (scored drum on left, new part on right):

 

 

Brake shoe wear (worn shoe on left, good shoe on right):

 

 

Frame wear in the area behind the clutch thumb bar (those grooves indicated by the red arrows shouldn't be there - it should be completely flat):

 

 

If the Carbonlite that you're looking at is good in the above areas, then probably the only thing else that you might want to check is wear to the worm shaft and line guide pawl.

 

A worn line guide pawl will look like this:

 

 

A new line guide pawl will look like the one in the upper right corner of this photo:

 

 

The line guide pawls are the same between CL and PQ and should be available. The CL has an aluminum worm shaft that may (or may not) be available but you can always substitute a PQ part.

 

If the brake drum is deeply scored, if the brake shoes are worn, or the frame grooved, then take a pass on the reel because those parts, even if available, would sour the deal from a $$$ perspective.

 

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Well I'm bummed now...see pics. 

[Goose52]

  On 12/31/2016 at 3:38 AM, cottny27 said:

Well I'm bummed now...see pics. 

 

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I've seen worse than that one but it isn't good. The brake shoes are probably worn as well.  It doesn't mean the reel is toast yet, but it does mean that it's just that much closer to the time when the brake drum scoring gets deep enough, and the brake shoes wear down enough, that you start to loose braking force. At some point, you have to keep adding more centrifugal until you have all 6 shoes active. THEN, at that point, the reel is just about toast. 

 

The brake shoes are not available as a replacement part - you have to buy a complete spool assembly ($). I ordered 2 sideplate assemblies from Outdoor World about 4 years ago and I think they were only about $18 each but then factor in shipping and it may not be worth sinking even that much money into this reel.

 

The brass brake drum, and the captive centrifugal brake shoes, are the Achilles heel of these Doyo DBS designs.

[cottny27]

  On 12/31/2016 at 5:06 AM, Goose52 said:

I've seen worse than that one but it isn't good. The brake shoes are probably worn as well.  It doesn't mean the reel is toast yet, but it does mean that it's just that much closer to the time when the brake drum scoring gets deep enough, and the brake shoes wear down enough, that you start to loose braking force. At some point, you have to keep adding more centrifugal until you have all 6 shoes active. THEN, at that point, the reel is just about toast. 

 

The brake shoes are not available as a replacement part - you have to buy a complete spool assembly ($). I ordered 2 sideplate assemblies from Outdoor World about 4 years ago and I think they were only about $18 each but then factor in shipping and it may not be worth sinking even that much money into this reel.

 

The brass brake drum, and the captive centrifugal brake shoes, are the Achilles heel of these Doyo DBS designs.

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I work next to a BPS and Outdoor World ships free to store. Sideplate assembly includes???  I guess I'm screwed on replacing the brake drum?  For $18 I'm not getting the whole side plate including the drum am I?  Not that Outdoor World would still carry this model.  I seen you replaced the whole side on your old PQ was that only $18?  Seems to good to be true.  

[Jason Penn]

i just ordered 1 of the new 8:1 carbonlites.  i've got 1 of the original gold, 3 of the pro qualifier tournaments, and 3 of the black.  i've never had a problem with any of them, other than the grinding noise the 7:1 blacks make.  the 5:1 black is as smooth as can be though.

[Goose52]

  On 12/31/2016 at 4:29 PM, cottny27 said:

I work next to a BPS and Outdoor World ships free to store. Sideplate assembly includes???  I guess I'm screwed on replacing the brake drum?  For $18 I'm not getting the whole side plate including the drum am I?  Not that Outdoor World would still carry this model.  I seen you replaced the whole side on your old PQ was that only $18?  Seems to good to be true.  

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I went back and read this post from my 5-Year Challenge thread. In July 2012, the sideplate assembly (parts 79 to 90 in the below schematic) was ONLY $14 - a GREAT deal especially since you get a new spool bearing!  I can't say what they would cost today. You might want to call Outdoor World next week and ask about availability and cost.  The model number for that Carbonlite is CL10H (right) / CL10HL (left)

 

[new2BC4bass]

  On 12/25/2016 at 3:52 PM, Goose52 said:

A much needed update to their bread and butter reel. BUT, is it too little, too late to recapture market share that they probably lost while the PQ just got older and older ?

 

For this new iteration, weight is 7.3 ounces - not too bad. BUT, there was a 6.7 ounce PQ years ago - it was the original, gold-colored Carbonlite which had an aluminum drive gear, driveshaft, and clutch pawl, along with a lighter handle. Otherwise it was parts-interchangeable with a PQ.

 

Trying to follow the high-speed craze, the new PQ gearing now tops at 7.5:1 (31 IPT), going down to 6.8:1 (28 IPT), and bottoming out (for now?) at 5.6:1 (23 IPT). Part of the versatility of the old PQ was those two lower ratios giving 21 IPT and 19 IPT - hopefully something lower than 23 IPT eventually shows up in the new line-up.

 

Well, good luck to them - for sure they will be able to capitalize on the rep of the previous PQ and capture some sales on that alone...

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Wow.  I didn't know that.  Thanks.  Thanks also for posting the various pictures.  I have 2 of the gold colored Carbonlites.  I had "Prolite" on my brain when I spooled them with 6 lb. mono.  Thought it might have been a mistake, but these reels will cast a 3/16 oz. Shad Rap very well so I made out okay with my line choice.

[cottny27]

  On 12/30/2016 at 11:21 PM, Goose52 said:

 

No problem on posting pics.

 

On polishing the brake drum - if it's only scratched a bit, and you don't take off too much material, that might be OK. However, if the brake drum is deeply scored, there's not much you can do about it other than replace the entire sideplate (the drum is NOT available as a replacement part).

 

Here are file photos that were taken as part of the PQ Five-Year Challenge test - these illustrate the areas that will show the most wear:

 

Brake drum wear (scored drum on left, new part on right):

 

 

Brake shoe wear (worn shoe on left, good shoe on right):

 

 

Frame wear in the area behind the clutch thumb bar (those grooves indicated by the red arrows shouldn't be there - it should be completely flat):

 

 

If the Carbonlite that you're looking at is good in the above areas, then probably the only thing else that you might want to check is wear to the worm shaft and line guide pawl.

 

A worn line guide pawl will look like this:

 

 

A new line guide pawl will look like the one in the upper right corner of this photo:

 

 

The line guide pawls are the same between CL and PQ and should be available. The CL has an aluminum worm shaft that may (or may not) be available but you can always substitute a PQ part.

 

If the brake drum is deeply scored, if the brake shoes are worn, or the frame grooved, then take a pass on the reel because those parts, even if available, would sour the deal from a $$$ perspective.

 

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Goose, so I took the reel completely apart pretty much. Cleaned it and greased using Superlube.  The reel had never been serviced since new prob 6-7yrs.  Now I have this small squeak that is annoying.  Took the handle and drag star off and spun the reel with the drive shaft... still a squeak.  I did grease the AR bearing. Was that a mistake? I feel like that's causing the noise.  Right the the AR bearing is soaking in Simple Green.  I plan on piling it lightly and reinstalling.   Yes, I am a bit anal I'll admit ?

[Goose52]

  On 1/2/2017 at 12:06 AM, cottny27 said:

Goose, so I took the reel completely apart pretty much. Cleaned it and greased using Superlube.  The reel had never been serviced since new prob 6-7yrs.  Now I have this small squeak that is annoying.  Took the handle and drag star off and spun the reel with the drive shaft... still a squeak.  I did grease the AR bearing. Was that a mistake? I feel like that's causing the noise.  Right the the AR bearing is soaking in Simple Green.  I plan on piling it lightly and reinstalling.   Yes, I am a bit anal I'll admit ?

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I've tinkered with PQs quite a bit but never had a squeak after assembly. On the AR bearing, all I use for lube is to put some oil on a q-tip and run it lightly over the rollers just before assembly. I also usually run the same q-tip around the sleeve washer as well.  However, I'll defer to the real reel experts on the proper way to service the AR bearing...

[cottny27]

  On 1/2/2017 at 12:20 AM, Goose52 said:

 

I've tinkered with PQs quite a bit but never had a squeak after assembly. On the AR bearing, all I use for lube is to put some oil on a q-tip and run it lightly over the rollers just before assembly. I also usually run the same q-tip around the sleeve washer as well.  However, I'll defer to the real reel experts on the proper way to service the AR bearing...

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I'm going to try oiling it lightly. I just polished the sleeve washer it's slick.

[cottny27]

  On 1/2/2017 at 12:20 AM, Goose52 said:

 

I've tinkered with PQs quite a bit but never had a squeak after assembly. On the AR bearing, all I use for lube is to put some oil on a q-tip and run it lightly over the rollers just before assembly. I also usually run the same q-tip around the sleeve washer as well.  However, I'll defer to the real reel experts on the proper way to service the AR bearing...

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Goose, one last question: the sleeve that goes over the AR bearing which way should the prongs be facing towards the drag washer or upward towards the handle?  It's completely hollow on one end and has a little squaring on the inside of the other end to hold it tight. 

[Goose52]

  On 1/2/2017 at 7:59 PM, cottny27 said:

Goose, one last question: the sleeve that goes over the AR bearing which way should the prongs be facing towards the drag washer or upward towards the handle?  It's completely hollow on one end and has a little squaring on the inside of the other end to hold it tight. 

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The "key" (driveshaft slot) on the sleeve should be outboard (handle side).

[cottny27]

  On 1/2/2017 at 8:22 PM, Goose52 said:

 

The "key" (driveshaft slot) on the sleeve should be outboard (handle side).

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Thanks, just making sure. 

And I got a thumbs ? on the sideplate assembly today. 

[iceintheveins]

The PQ was the best reel for under 100 bucks out there. I have four of them and have had them for years, and only two need maintenance for a screeching problem on the cast now. The wide variety of gear ratios was great, I'm not into this high speed craze. I am always nervous when "new and improved" comes out. I say if it ain't broke, DON'T FIX IT! 

[cottny27]

  On 1/3/2017 at 7:20 PM, iceintheveins said:

The PQ was the best reel for under 100 bucks out there. I have four of them and have had them for years, and only two need maintenance for a screeching problem on the cast now. The wide variety of gear ratios was great, I'm not into this high speed craze. I am always nervous when "new and improved" comes out. I say if it ain't broke, DON'T FIX IT! 

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Yep, I don't need anything more than 6.4:1 and like to use 5.4:1 as much as I can get away with it. 

[cottny27]

  On 12/31/2016 at 5:37 PM, Goose52 said:

 

I went back and read this post from my 5-Year Challenge thread. In July 2012, the sideplate assembly (parts 79 to 90 in the below schematic) was ONLY $14 - a GREAT deal especially since you get a new spool bearing!  I can't say what they would cost today. You might want to call Outdoor World next week and ask about availability and cost.  The model number for that Carbonlite is CL10H (right) / CL10HL (left)

 

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Goose, what did that spool assembly cost for the PQ if you recall?  I read through your 5 year post and didn't see that you listed that.  I could have missed it.  Great post!

[Goose52]

  On 1/5/2017 at 1:33 PM, cottny27 said:

Goose, what did that spool assembly cost for the PQ if you recall?  I read through your 5 year post and didn't see that you listed that.  I could have missed it.  Great post!

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I never ordered a new spool and kept running the old spool with the worn brakes.  I have a feeling that they quoted something like $30 or so and I decided to pass.

[cottny27]

  On 1/5/2017 at 2:42 PM, Goose52 said:

 

I never ordered a new spool and kept running the old spool with the worn brakes.  I have a feeling that they quoted something like $30 or so and I decided to pass.

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That's more than I want to spend considering I won't be charging him anything and he may not sell it to me.  Anyway, the brakes tabs look in way better shape than the drum does.  I think it will be fine for awhile. I fixed the squeak by greasing up the AR sleeve & running a little oil along the spool and pinion raceway  

The spool still spins freely.

 

[BassBuster420]

  On 12/25/2016 at 5:15 PM, Jeff H said:

 

How much do they go for on sale? 

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I don't know what the PQ2 goes for on sale. But I bought the PQ1 for $50-55 plus tax during the spring classic sale. Best baitcaster I've bought for $50.

  On 1/3/2017 at 7:54 PM, cottny27 said:

Yep, I don't need anything more than 6.4:1 and like to use 5.4:1 as much as I can get away with it. 

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I have a 6.4:1 and a 7.1:1 and I have to say I have been glad I was using the 7:1 worm fishing a couple times when the fish has swam right towards me. The 7:1 just kept up with him maintaining a tight line reeling as fast as i could. I use my 6.4:1 for everything else.