Hello/new builder

[pier_man0909]

Hello.  I wanted to introduce myself.  I am a new member to this forum and this is my first post.  I am also a new rod builder.  I have wanted to do it for quite a few years but am just now getting around to building.  My first project will be a rainshadow immortal 7'2" casting fast action medium power 1/4-3/4 oz.  This will be an all purpose rod.  I was thinking about spiral wrapping it.  Has anyone here spiral wrapped one of these blanks?  What components does everyone here recommend as far as guides and real seats? I have always had fuji components on my rods before but some of batsons stuff is catching my eye.  Thanks in advance and I hope everyone has a great christmas.

[MickD]

There are many companies out there with very high quality components.  It's more about finding something that fits what you want to do than it is brand.  Although sticking with the big names is safe.  All companies have a range of components from very inexpensive (but still very good-all their guides are braid safe, although I like to use a preimium tiptop since that is where you'll get grooving if it's going to happen) to very expensive.  No need to go top of the line.

 

I have to suggest an alternative to your plan.  With every build you will get better and better.  And your first may not meet your expectations.  So consider a moderately priced kit for your first build.  

 

You can spiral wrap any blank.  If you want to spiral wrap, look into the various methods.  The easiest, and it works just fine, is to do the simple spiral.  Locate all your guides as if building on top.  Move all but the first guide to 180 degrees.  Add one guide, the lowest you can get, can be same diameter as your running guides, at 90 degrees 1/2 way between the first and second guide.  Its function is simply to keep the line off the blank.  This method works well, you get no loading to one side of the reel as you do with many others that put the first guide at an angle.

 

This forum is a good one to add to your list of resources.  Check out its library.  http://rodbuilding.org/list.php?2

http://www.mudhole.com/CRB-Light-Freshwater-Rod-Building-Kit-IS701L

 

 

[Dwight Hottle]

Welcome to BR. You will get plenty of good advice from the numerous talented builders on this site. 

[A-Jay]

Hello and Welcome Bass Resource ~

Good Luck with your build.

 

A-Jay

[pier_man0909]

2 hours ago, MickD said:

There are many companies out there with very high quality components.  It's more about finding something that fits what you want to do than it is brand.  Although sticking with the big names is safe.  All companies have a range of components from very inexpensive (but still very good-all their guides are braid safe, although I like to use a preimium tiptop since that is where you'll get grooving if it's going to happen) to very expensive.  No need to go top of the line.

 

I have to suggest an alternative to your plan.  With every build you will get better and better.  And your first may not meet your expectations.  So consider a moderately priced kit for your first build.  

 

You can spiral wrap any blank.  If you want to spiral wrap, look into the various methods.  The easiest, and it works just fine, is to do the simple spiral.  Locate all your guides as if building on top.  Move all but the first guide to 180 degrees.  Add one guide, the lowest you can get, can be same diameter as your running guides, at 90 degrees 1/2 way between the first and second guide.  Its function is simply to keep the line off the blank.  This method works well, you get no loading to one side of the reel as you do with many others that put the first guide at an angle.

 

This forum is a good one to add to your list of resources.  Check out its library.  http://rodbuilding.org/list.php?2

http://www.mudhole.com/CRB-Light-Freshwater-Rod-Building-Kit-IS701L

 

 

thanks for your feedback.  I think my first rod will be pretty bare bones.  not only just to get experience with basics, but also to make a lighter, more sensetive rod.  I originally wanted to build a MHX kit from mudhole  Then saw the reduced prices on the immortals and just couldnt pass it up, especially after reading the reviews about them.  My blanks should get here today.  I will have a few days before I order components to get a feel for the blanks and take measurements.  I hope to order components on tuesday. 

 

I am going back and forth between split cork, split winn, or split carbon fiber handle.  I think I am leaning towards the carbon fiber, but it is pretty expensive, as are the winn grips. 

 

I am also debating about going with fuji alconite or ALPS mxn and pmk

 

For the reel seat, the ALPS MVT and TEXTOUCH look really nice, but are quite expensive compared to just a traditional trigger seat (exposed blank or not).  Has anyone here used those ALPS seats and have any feedback on them?  Thanks in advance.

[MickD]

I have used the alps seats and they are fine.  You don't need to spend a bundle on a reel seat to get a very nice, functional rod.  I recommend the Fuji RV for the first guide, two or three KB's, then the small foot KT guides the rest of the way.  Or look at their alum oxide versions of the guides.   All running guides the same size based on what knots you want them to pass.  I recommend 5's.  The Fuji ACS seat is nice, doesn't cost a fortune.  I use it on some very expensive blanks.  Coordinate the seat hood finish with the guides.

[Angry John]

As this is your first go, keep it simple.  Go with a standard setup and make it as easy on yourself as possible.  The more complicated it is, the more chances to make mistakes.  JMO.

[Jrob78]

8 hours ago, pier_man0909 said:

thanks for your feedback.  I think my first rod will be pretty bare bones.  not only just to get experience with basics, but also to make a lighter, more sensetive rod.  I originally wanted to build a MHX kit from mudhole  Then saw the reduced prices on the immortals and just couldnt pass it up, especially after reading the reviews about them.  My blanks should get here today.  I will have a few days before I order components to get a feel for the blanks and take measurements.  I hope to order components on tuesday. 

 

I am going back and forth between split cork, split winn, or split carbon fiber handle.  I think I am leaning towards the carbon fiber, but it is pretty expensive, as are the winn grips. 

 

I am also debating about going with fuji alconite or ALPS mxn and pmk

 

For the reel seat, the ALPS MVT and TEXTOUCH look really nice, but are quite expensive compared to just a traditional trigger seat (exposed blank or not).  Has anyone here used those ALPS seats and have any feedback on them?  Thanks in advance.

I'm a fan of standard Fuji ECS reel seats, cork grips and Fuji Alconite guides.   All that stuff is personal preference though and what makes a rod truly "custom."  The grips and seat just glue up so it doesn't really make a difference what you pick on the difficulty scale.   Pick the stuff you like.  You're first rod won't be perfect but there's no reason not to make it how you want it.

 

As far as whether or not to spiral, go for it.  It isn't any harder to wrap spiral guides than conventional.  I usually start with a 6, two 5's for the spiral and then 4's to the tip.  For a personal build I will use Fuji BLAG's and maybe a BLNAG for the size 6 and BFCAT tip.  Double footed guides really aren't necessary on most bass rods but I will use one (BLNAG) for the stripper guide just because I like how it looks.

 

Read everything you can find before you start.  There are several different spiral configurations and all of them work.  

[custer]

IMHO.. (Which with $10 will buy you a Starbucks) spiral wrap is good for trolling,  or with very cheap blanks who have a significant pronounced spline to them.  I've surf casted the same blanks built spiral or standard and found zero benefit to the spiral build (unless being different is the goal)

 

Like others have said,  it's just as easy to wrap spiral as standard.

 

Getting the proper sizing and spacing is a different story (again,  IMHO).

 

I build for myself or close friends,  so I'm no "professional ", I only use alconite guides. With going on 20 years (and 50+ rods) of doing this I've NEVER had an alconite fail. 

 

For the same reason I only use Fuji reel seats. Not trying to say anything bad about ALPS, rainshadow or any other manufacturer.  I was taught by a guy whose been doing this 40 years, he only uses Fuji because he's never had one fail. 

 

At the end of the day,  it's your rod,  it IS a custom, 

 

Build it any d**n way YOU want. ...

 

Good luck

 

 

[Jrob78]

I find spiral wraps to be most beneficial when fighting a fish, not really with casting.  I don't think they hurt casting but don't really improve it either.

[pier_man0909]

23 minutes ago, custer said:

IMHO.. (Which with $10 will buy you a Starbucks) spiral wrap is good for trolling,  or with very cheap blanks who have a significant pronounced spline to them.  I've surf casted the same blanks built spiral or standard and found zero benefit to the spiral build (unless being different is the goal)

 

Like others have said,  it's just as easy to wrap spiral as standard.

 

Getting the proper sizing and spacing is a different story (again,  IMHO).

 

I build for myself or close friends,  so I'm no "professional ", I only use alconite guides. With going on 20 years (and 50+ rods) of doing this I've NEVER had an alconite fail. 

 

For the same reason I only use Fuji reel seats. Not trying to say anything bad about ALPS, rainshadow or any other manufacturer.  I was taught by a guy whose been doing this 40 years, he only uses Fuji because he's never had one fail. 

 

At the end of the day,  it's your rod,  it IS a custom, 

 

Build it any d**n way YOU want. ...

 

Good luck

 

 

haha, How have you been tommy.  havent chatted with you in quite a long time.  Havent caught a drum in quite some time either.  have you been on the beach lately?  

 

Thanks everyone for the feedback.  It is helping a lot.  Its been almost 10 years since I tried building any rods and there is quite a bit of new and different stuff now.  Last time I tried to start building I had to immediately stop due to life circumstances and just never got it started again until now.  

[custer]

Since the ecowhackos won Hatteras I haven't been back. I do go to core banks, and have been custerered on big drum,  but have caught plenty pups,  flounder, spannies, and BIG biters...

 

Losing the beach forced me back to Sweetwater so that's now my primary focus. ..

[pier_man0909]

Happy new year everyone.  here is an update.  Its pretty slow going so far.  I went with forecast split winn grips for the handle and the fuji ACS seat.  I ordered the ACS and ECS to feel how they both felt in my hand as I read there was a lot of people liking one but not the other and I just wanted to feel for myself.  After feeling both I went with the ACS.  I went with the CLNAG 8 stripper and will use either one or two CLAG 6 for transition guides and then CLAG 5 runners the rest of the way.  I think I will wrap them with fuiji royal blue thread with metallic royal blue trim bands unless I just dont like the way that looks.  right now the grips and reel seat are setting up.  Im still waiting for the rest of my components to come in from mudhole to finish.  They are supposed to get here thursday or friday.  they seem to take forever to ship.

[Jrob78]

4 hours ago, pier_man0909 said:

Happy new year everyone.  here is an update.  Its pretty slow going so far.  I went with forecast split winn grips for the handle and the fuji ACS seat.  I ordered the ACS and ECS to feel how they both felt in my hand as I read there was a lot of people liking one but not the other and I just wanted to feel for myself.  After feeling both I went with the ACS.  I went with the CLNAG 8 stripper and will use either one or two CLAG 6 for transition guides and then CLAG 5 runners the rest of the way.  I think I will wrap them with fuiji royal blue thread with metallic royal blue trim bands unless I just dont like the way that looks.  right now the grips and reel seat are setting up.  Im still waiting for the rest of my components to come in from mudhole to finish.  They are supposed to get here thursday or friday.  they seem to take forever to ship.

 

Is your regular royal blue thread NCP or regular?  The reason I ask is if it's regular nylon the color will darken up a lot and almost turn transparent.  It will probably look good with royal metallic but it won't look like it looks now, unless you put color preserver, (CP) on it.  If your thread is NCP it will retain its color and will look almost painted.  It would probably be a good idea to do a test wrap on an old rod and apply finish.  You will know what it will look like and it will be good practice.

[pier_man0909]

7 hours ago, Jrob78 said:

 

Is your regular royal blue thread NCP or regular?  The reason I ask is if it's regular nylon the color will darken up a lot and almost turn transparent.  It will probably look good with royal metallic but it won't look like it looks now, unless you put color preserver, (CP) on it.  If your thread is NCP it will retain its color and will look almost painted.  It would probably be a good idea to do a test wrap on an old rod and apply finish.  You will know what it will look like and it will be good practice.

 

Its the NOCP thread.  I thought about using the regular with color preserver as I suspect that it would ultimately have a better look.  I wanted to keep it simple and I didnt think it would look that much better to justify the extra cost, time, and margin for error on my first build.  Maybe on my next one I will try with some CP.  Is there really that much of a difference using NOCP vs. regular with color preserver? 

[Jrob78]

11 hours ago, pier_man0909 said:

 

Its the NOCP thread.  I thought about using the regular with color preserver as I suspect that it would ultimately have a better look.  I wanted to keep it simple and I didnt think it would look that much better to justify the extra cost, time, and margin for error on my first build.  Maybe on my next one I will try with some CP.  Is there really that much of a difference using NOCP vs. regular with color preserver? 

There is a slight difference between NCP thread and regular thread with CP added.  The NCP thread will have more of a painted on look.  It will be hard to see the individual threads.  Using CP on regular thread will look more natural but it's more difficult to get the CP coated evenly.  

 

Use the thread you have and worry about doing nice wraps.  You can mess with using CP on a later rod.

11 hours ago, pier_man0909 said:

 

Its the NOCP thread.  I thought about using the regular with color preserver as I suspect that it would ultimately have a better look.  I wanted to keep it simple and I didnt think it would look that much better to justify the extra cost, time, and margin for error on my first build.  Maybe on my next one I will try with some CP.  Is there really that much of a difference using NOCP vs. regular with color preserver? 

There is a slight difference between NCP thread and regular thread with CP added.  The NCP thread will have more of a painted on look.  It will be hard to see the individual threads.  Using CP on regular thread will look more natural but it's more difficult to get the CP coated evenly.  

 

Use the thread you have and worry about doing nice wraps.  You can mess with using CP on a later rod.