how to install a fishfinder

[northgabassfisher]

I just ordered a new depth finder today and I need to install it I was going to take it some were to get it installed but every ones turn around is a round a week and I need it this weekend. But how would you go about installing it I've never done it before and im kind of intimated by it b/c I don't want to screw any thing up. It's going on the front of my bass boat. Im guessing I just run the power cable to my fuse box then just hook the transducer up to the trolling motor. But it seems like there should be more too it. So if yall can please give me some detailed instruction.

Thanks,

[Ben]

Depending on how new your boat is, it may already have the wires in the bow to connect it up. I prefer hooking to the power switch so when I turn it off the depth finder is not still running a week later because I forgot to turn it off. Normally black wires are battery negative (commonly refered to as ground but it's really battery negative) If you have a switch panel in the bow (most do) loosen it and slide it out carefully, making sure you don't pull any wires off the installed switches etc and not be able to figure out where they go back. Check the main wiring harness going to that panel and see if there are more unused wires in it. Connect a voltmeter or test light (one end to a battery negative and one to the wire you want to check) to each of those wires and turn the power switch on and off to see if it controls one. If it does, all you need to do is connect a fuse/fuse holder to that wire and the other end to the red wire in you DF power cable. Connect the black wire in the DF power cable to the battery negative you was using. That gives you power.

For the X-ducer, you will need to make make a hole just behind the TM mount big enough for the connector to go through. They make plastic covers the cover the hole and have a couple of notches in them for the cables. Then you will need to make another hole just behind the DF mounting bracket (unless it a Humming bird, I think they come through the middle of the bracket) for the connector to come back out and into the DF. Another one of those covers to cover that holes also. You will also run your power cable through that hole.

Mount your X-ducer on the TM, in a way that you can feed the cable back under the clamp right next to the X-ducer without the camp pinching too hard on the cable and up the motor shaft. I use 3M 33+ tape and tape it with several wrap every six inches or so and they put a tie wrap over that. When you get to the upper shaft where the motor rotates you will need to leave a loop big enough so the motor will rotate all the way each direction without pulling on the cable. Tape it down on the top shaft in a couple places, remebering the closer you get to the mount, the less you will be able to slide the motor up in the mount when working real shallow water. Now comes the fun part. You need to anchor it to the mount so it's secure but so you can also raise and lower the mount without it binding or cutting the cable. I still use the 3M tape for this but not the tie wraps because you normally don't have the clearance to put a tie wrap. Once you get it back to the hole (actually, you may want to run the cable before you drill the hole to see which side of the motor you have to come down) feed it into the hole and back out the one behind the DF.

One word of caution, check and see where your rod tips are or will come to when in the rod locker. You may have to do some fancy engineering under there to keep the cable and rod tips from hanging each other.

[Guest JoshKeller]

I had to install a transom mount transducer on my trolling motor once in an emergency. I drilled a 1/4" hole through the bottom of the skeg of my trolling motor, and used a bolt and some shims to tighten it down. It never moved, and got great readings.

[Guest ouachitabassangler]

That setup would last me maybe a week, the skeg climbing over stumps pretty often. It's bad enugh having it on the transom, so I have to be careful backing up.

Jim

[Ben]

Ya'll brought up a point here. I was assuming he had TM mount X-ducer (the puck style or the TM adapter for the transome mount. Having never installed one before he may just have the transome mount and not know it takes a TM mount adapter to use it.

Not sure what make but will need something like this for the one your installing if you didn't get the puck style X-ducer. This one is for the Lowrance/Eagles

http://www.basspro.com/servlet/catalog.TextId?hvarTextId=48407&hvarDept=200&hvarEvent=&hvarClassCode=1&hvarSubCode=2&hvarTarget=browse

Here's HB's http://www.basspro.com/servlet/catalog.TextId?hvarTextId=74582&hvarDept=200&hvarEvent=&hvarClassCode=1&hvarSubCode=2&hvarTarget=browse

And may have to use this one for some other brands

http://www.basspro.com/servlet/catalog.TextId?hvarTextId=1212&hvarDept=200&hvarEvent=&hvarClassCode=1&hvarSubCode=6&hvarTarget=browse

[northgabassfisher]

I ordered a x-15 from cabelas I could not chose trolling motor or transom. http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/links/link.jsp?id=0032243014150a&type=product&cmCat=search&returnPage=search-results1.jsp&QueryText=x-15&N=4887&Ntk=Products&Ntx=mode+matchall&Nty=1&Ntt=x-15&noImage=0

[Ben]

You will need the adapter I listed to mount the transducer that comes in the box.   If you have the extra funds, the puck X-ducer is less aggrivating.  Mounting the skimmer on the TM it constant gets knock of position.   However $7 is a lot more appealing that $70.

[northgabassfisher]

I already have a trancducer on the trolling motor so I will just thake the old transducer off of the the TM bracket and put the new transducer on it. save me $7.

[northgabassfisher]

I finly got my boat out for the water today and I opened it and the power cord to my old unit is connected to some other wires that go to the battery so I can just connect the new power cord to the connector right. man who ever thought of that is a guines that saved me alot of work. But im still waiting for my new depth finder to get here I cant wait. thanks for all yalls help.