Money saving tricks, ideas, and homemade stuff

[KDW96]

On 11/29/2016 at 9:25 AM, Catt said:

Depends on the size boat, depth of water, & weight of the rod

Mine is a 3' × 1/2" stainless steel rod, it holds a 16' x 52" Alweld in 5-6' of water.

Any material rod works great, I've see em 6-8' long holding 18' bay boats.

 

I made some out of 36in rebar, 1inch round. Had a solid 1 1/4 ring welded to one end. My grinder made the tip real nice. works very well,i never did way it though

[dragger201]

On 11/27/2016 at 7:15 PM, whitwolf said:

While I buy old discontinued Rebel baits, the thing that has saved me more money than anything is this; as I fish from year to year I know exactly what I like to fish and what works for me. Yes, I still buy some things that strike my fancy but the simplification of bait selection has saved me hundreds of dollars a year. 

I also now take care of my equipment on a much more regular schedule. I have reels that are over 20 years old that are in excellent working condition. I do have many newer reels but If I have  a problem my back-ups are more than adequate. 

The last thing I want to share is this: I tend to fun fish more and more and simply having fun, taking In the sights and sounds of nature, and never taking for granted the time I get to spend on the water, well, you can't "buy" that. 

GOSPEL!!!

On 11/28/2016 at 7:49 AM, the reel ess said:

I do 1, 3, 4 & 6. Except I don't use leaders for the most part. My topwaters, cranks, spinnerbaits and buzzbaits rods are Berkley Lightning Rods that I bought on clearance. Light and insensitive.

I got 3 of those Berkleys and I like 'em.................alot.  I gotta get me one more rod and that's gonna be another Lightning.

["hamma"]

If you like the lightning rod? they just re-introduced their series one rods,,..A quality rod before, im sure even better now.

[the reel ess]

3 hours ago, "hamma" said:

If you like the lightning rod? they just re-introduced their series one rods,,..A quality rod before, im sure even better now.

There was a time in my fishing "career" where I thought Lightning was a top quality rod.

I have older MH and a M 6-6 BC rods and a newer M spinning rod. All of them are for presentations that don't require sensitivity. In fact, you can benefit from the lack of sensitivity.

[bigfruits]

buy good gear the first time.

["hamma"]

   I have a couple lightning rods, they are both Med Heavy and are used for "sensitive" presentations, and I have no issues with them at all. one is a 7 ft spinning and the other a casting 7 ftr.

 Now, although when I fish alone I set them up for jig fishing, or maybe even a worm, and sometimes a jerkbait. I do leave them home when I go with another angler, exception being my daughters, as I let them use the spinning rod. When they graduate to baitcasters, the 7 ft baitcaster will get the nod.,... (this coming spring)

 I do get the sensitive thing as I do have some really sensitive gear for bottom bouncing, but still dont negate the lightning rods at all. They may be a less expensive rod, But there is yet to be a rod built with more money, time, and testing involved in its design. I have taught all 3 of my daughters to fish both searchbaits and bottom bouncing and we all have used the lightning rod for both with success. A jighead with a plastic, to a jerkbait, that spinning rod has done it all. It provides "enough" sensitivity to warrant its use for any and all the lures we've bottom bounced with.

 It may not be the "best" but for the money? try and beat it, it's just not going to happen. I do have a cheaper shimano convergence heavy action that come close, but still not "better".

 I rarely spend alot of money for a rod, and im kinda surprised I dont have any of the newer shock series yet. But I dont fish braid, and thats what these shocks are designed for.  Even the techniques that dont "require" alot of sensitivity, will benefit from some. Topwaters, spinnerbaits, jerkbaits and even crankbaits fished on a rod with some sensitivity, are better served this way. The feel of a fish after a topwaters hit is crucial, same goes for the other 3 lures. At least,.. I believe this to be benefitial in these less sensitive demanding techniques.

 Big fruits point holds some merit, the better your gear the better its going to serve you. But money is what it is and not all of us can afford GLoomis rods. And I am one of these anglers, So I buy what I can, when I can, and make due. My most expensive setup is a original shimano crucial telescoping c-rig/jig rig rod (thats actually a Gloomis blank) and a shimano 201 calcutta reel. Awesome setup, I love using it and it's yet to fail me in almost 20 years. But I also have some much less expensive setups that see even more use and kicks bass.

 Since this thread is about money saving, heres a trick or tip for checking a rod out before buying it. 

 I will check its tip but appyling pressure to the rods tip with one finger only, and push up by the handle checking its parabolic bend and action, then I will hold the handle as if i'm fishing it, and very lightly touch the floor with the rods tip, sliding it back and forth "feeling" its sensitivity. The feeling transmitted will tell you how sensitive it really is, ,... do this with several different makes and models and you will see what I mean, a whip or 2 like your casting will give an idea of how the rod loads a cast.

 I've been doing this for over 30 years and have yet to buy a rod I'm dissapointed with. I have found that a inexpensive doesn't always mean "cheap" by any means. If a rod offers a place to touch the blank while reeling, and is made from a graphite or better blank, then its most likely a "decent" rod as far as feel goes. Add on a graphite reel seat, fugi guides, and im happy.

[scaleface]

I have 5 Lightning rod's . 2 original  5'6'' med hvy casting , 1 original 6'0'' med hevy . casting  , 1 6'0'' light action spinning . Then i have a 6'6'' med hvy but its a later generation and I never shined up to it much . Its just not the same quality . 

[CrustyMono]

This thread went from Money Saving Tricks to Berkley Lightning Rod!

[Alan Reed]

The biggest money tip I can offer is don't by every lure that is out there. I know lots of people that have bought lures and they have never really even thought about using them when Luton the water.

[Bassfishnc18]

Use the wacky tool with o-rings for wacky rigging.

Use off brand stick baits ( bps, yum dingers, big bite baits, etc) instead of GYB senkos.

Fish less with hard baits as they are generally more pricey than soft plastics or jigs.

[IndianaFinesse]

1 hour ago, Bassfishnc18 said:

Fish less with hard baits as they are generally more pricey than soft plastics or jigs.

On the contrary, soft plastics are the baits that you have to buy the hooks, sinkers and the actual bait separately, which adds up quickly.  Plus on an average day of fishing you might go threw at least a bag or two of plastics, while with hard baits you can use them forever.

[JRammit]

instead of buying expensive drop shot weights, use cheap split shots... Tie a simple over hand knot at the end of your line and the weight won't slide off

[Bassfishnc18]

2 hours ago, IndianaFinesse said:

On the contrary, soft plastics are the baits that you have to buy the hooks, sinkers and the actual bait separately, which adds up quickly.  Plus on an average day of fishing you might go threw at least a bag or two of plastics, while with hard baits you can use them forever.

True but when fishing hard baits established around cover the will get hung and thats where it becomes expensive, losing 3-4 cranks one day which can add up to 60$ or more.

[IndianaFinesse]

3 hours ago, Bassfishnc18 said:

True but when fishing hard baits established around cover the will get hung and thats where it becomes expensive, losing 3-4 cranks one day which can add up to 60$ or more.

That could be true if you don't put the amount of effort into retrieving snagged lures that I do, I always carry a plug knocker and if that doesn't work I will swim for it, even if it's ten feet down or way back underneath a dock.  It is extremely rare that I have to break off on something, the only time I have to is if it's snagged in water over ten feet deep and I can't get it out with my plug knocker.

[Outdoor Zack]

On ‎11‎/‎28‎/‎2016 at 11:24 AM, the reel ess said:

Pfleuger Trion is the best spinning reel for the price ($40) I have seen, IMO.

I think so as well

On ‎11‎/‎28‎/‎2016 at 11:24 AM, the reel ess said:

Berkley Big Game!!!

 

Great line for the price.  I got a 1700 yd. spool a while ago at wally world for like $5.  Enough mono for me for 2017 at least

[geo g]

I'm a plastics fisherman 90% of the time.  When my senkos, trick worms, Zoom centipedes, speed worms, u-tails, Beavers, creature baits  ect., Get torn up at the nose I will turn them around and rig them the opposite way.   Sometimes just bite off a half inch where they are torn up, works perfect!  Fishing 300 days a year this really saves a bunch of money.  When their really torn up on both ends, you can wacky rig in the middle.  The more torn up the better the action, as they fall through the water column.   I love when their torn-up in the middle, because now the action really increases as you jerk and slack the bait.  Get the max out of your baits and at least a 50% discount at the same time.  I guarantee the bass don't care!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Oklahoma Mike]

If you bank fish and sometimes end up with lures in trees, or even for boat fishing banks with heavy tree lines, here's a handy retrieval tool I made:

Go buy a telescoping pole that's made for changing light bulbs http://www.homedepot.com/p/Bayco-11-ft-Pole-Light-Bulb-Changer-Kit-with-Attachments-CE-600SDLB12/100354521

Toss the accessories and attach a loop of webbing to the top of it. I used a cut off piece of a webbed tactical belt. Now you have a tool that you can use to snag the hooks of your hanging lure and pull them out of the tree. As a bonus, the pole collapses to around 4-5' - holding it with the webbed loop at the top, it can now also double as a walking stick, which can be handy for pond fishing if you are hiking in and out.

 

[hunterPRO1]

on a paddle tail swimbait get to torn up to texas rig i use them as a trailer on a spinner bait or buzz bait

[Jon P.]

instead of buying lead moulding gear and ingots just buy epoxy and tungsten powder, make a 50/50 mix of epoxy and tungsten, spray UMR mould release on your lead mould and poor that cheap stuff in

[MassYak85]

Buying multiple spools instead of buying multiple setups and just having different line you can switch out can save a lot. It can also save on line costs if you are someone who changes line out frequently to achieve different running depths on crankbaits. 

[A-Jay]

26 minutes ago, MassYak85 said:

Buying multiple spools instead of buying multiple setups and just having different line you can switch out can save a lot. It can also save on line costs if you are someone who changes line out frequently to achieve different running depths on crankbaits. 

Yes Sir ~  I started doing this for my casting reels on the first trip south of the border a while back.  Definitely allowed me to get quite a bit off flexibility out of the four rods I chose to pack.  As it turned out - it's a 20 pound Mono Only deal but it was still a good thing having some options.

 Now I still use the casting reel multiple spool deal a ton on my home waters.   An Especially effective system when virtually ALL my reels are very similar (Brand / model) in that they will all accept the same spools interchangeably.  When fishing several days in a row, on different bodies of water, some habitats may be vastly different and each demands different techniques and or presentations.  If I want to fish a certain stick but need a different type or size line, a quick spool change and I'm back in the game.  Helps in zeroing in on the right depth with certain cranks as well.

  My biggest challenge may be identifying each spool correctly.  Currently keeping each spool in small zip lock bags labeled with the line type & size.   Not keeping that deal straight really defeats the whole purpose.

A-Jay

 

[Bass Turd]

1 hour ago, Jon P. said:

instead of buying lead molding gear and ingots just buy epoxy and tungsten powder, make a 50/50 mix of epoxy and tungsten, spray UMR mold release on your lead mold and poor that cheap stuff in

How do the actual weight of your epoxy/tungsten powder compare to what the weight is supposed to be. In other words you pour your mixture in a one ounce led mold. What does it actually weigh?

[Jon P.]

I've never measured the weight differential, it never really occured to me. but if you find the volume of 1 oz. of pure lead, divide that volume by two, and calculate the weight of that volume in tungsten and then in epoxy, add the weight of the epoxy and the tungsten, you should get your answer.

[roadwarrior]

26 minutes ago, Jon P. said:

I've never measured the weight differential, it never really occured to me. but if you find the volume of 1 oz. of pure lead, divide that volume by two, and calculate the weight of that volume in tungsten and then in epoxy, add the weight of the epoxy and the tungsten, you should get your answer.

I don't follow this line of reasoning...pv/2 = t+e  

[MassYak85]

2 hours ago, roadwarrior said:

I don't follow this line of reasoning...pv/2 = t+e  

I think he's saying that if a 1 ounce lead jig had a volume of X, that to get the weight of his special jigs you would need to add the weight of tungsten that would occupy X/2 and the weight of epoxy that would occupy X/2. Assuming he did indeed use a 1 to 1 ratio of tungsten and epoxy resin by volume.