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Posted

I'm building a casting rod and don't want a foregrip.  I'm thinking about just using an aluminum winding check.  Will this work, and what are some other alternatives?  I think some pictures would be helpful.  Thanks for all your help.

Posted

Here's a few options using winding checks, both aluminum and rubber. As well as using a larger hood, though there's still a ramp or check there.

NoForeGrip3.jpg

NoForeGrip4.jpg

  • Like 2
Posted

They’re fairly standard, shouldn’t be any problems with other reels.
Heavy saltwater reels are a little less standard in sizing and can cause problems.

  • Super User
Posted

Most reel feet I've measured have been between 2 3/8 - 2 1/2". Measure all of your reels. Mount the one with the longest foot in the seat, and mark the threads where the locknut ends. Trim it one thread in front of that.

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted

Or don't trim. What is the reason for trimming?  Minimize weight?  How much? almost nothing.  Better looks?  Not sure it's worth it.  IMHO

Posted
6 minutes ago, Delaware Valley Tackle said:

Not only are trimmed threads more aesthetically pleasing they are more comfortable. IMO of course. There is no right or wrong that's the great part of going custom. 

Yup. I'd rather have my finger on the blank than the reel seat threads. Plus it's fugly 

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted

I guess I didn't think one could trim so much that it would make a significant difference in whether the threads come into play either visually or functionally.  I stand corrected.

 

  • Super User
Posted

Mick, the next time you build yourself a casting rod, try a seat with the excess threads trimmed off; topped of with one of those foam arbor ramps you do so well. (It's on my list of things to try)

  • Like 1
Posted

i don't like forgrips because they don't allow blank to finger connection, which causes less sensitivity

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